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Invisibledumbfounded1600
Stranger

Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Dedicated To Agar 'Mushroom Cultivation' AND Links/Grow Logs/Other * 5
    #8467229 - 05/31/08 12:37 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Links

Other

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=61&Number=1610063&page=0&fpart=1
An Adventure in Outdoor Cultivation!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/420355#420355
Cordyceps

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=61&Number=2359088&page=0&fpart=1
Outdoor Beds Wood Lovers

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=61&Number=4304709&page=0&fpart=1
Outdoor Shit Pile. STUDY STUDY STUDY!!!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/8167907/an/0/page/0
Outdoor Wood lover Beds

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/317220#317220
Panaeolus Cyanescens Gold Nuggets

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3603867/page/0/fpart/3/vc/1
Panaeolus Cyanescens "JAMAICA

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6283208#6283208
Panaeolus Cyanescens On Fresh Corn

http://www.mushmush.com/?page=begin%5Cgallery%5Cpanaeolus_spp.
Panaeolus Cyanescens Picture Galary

http://www.thenook.org/archives/tek/pans.htm
Panaeolus Cyanescens Tek

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/601542#601542
Psilocybe Atlantis In Vitro Sclerotia Pics

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/338217/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Psilocybe Azurescens How To Outdoor Bed

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6182150#6182150
Psilocybe Azurescens Indoor #1

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1404425#1404425
Psilocybe Azurescens! Indoor #2

http://www.shroomery.org/8702/Psilocybe-azurescens-indoor-cultivation
Psilocybe Azurescens Indoor Cultivation. Good Read.

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7123330/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Psilocybe Mexicana Jolisco





Grow Logs

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2480695/an/0/page/2
50/50 Coco Coir/Vermiculite vs 50/50 Peat & Vermiculite

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7854539/an/0/page/2
ATL#7 Is Not Psilocybe Atlantis

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7259851/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
B+ Legally Homeless Log

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5139398#5139398
Birds Nest Fungus

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6696796/page/1/fpart/1/vc/1
Bucket O' Fungus - Z Strain

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2765662/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Burma, Creeper, Ecuador

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4757679#4757679
Coffee, Seaweed Extract And Horse Manure Updated

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5223416#5223416
Creeper On Cased Peanut Shells Complete

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/urltrurl?tt=url&url=http%3A%2F%2Fentheogen.ru%2Fshrooms%2Fteks%2Fne_sawdust.shtml&lp=ru_en
Cubes Fruiting On Sawdust!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3026085/an/0/page/0
Eatyu's How Too

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=64&Number=373936&page=1&fpart=1
Ecuador Manure Cake

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2483940/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Ecuador On Straw

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5533076/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Ecuador _> Wild Bird Seed _> Horse Manure_> MonoTub: First Grow

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7893964/an/0/page/0
Faht Makes A Bulk Tub

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6603548/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Field Tek Nooby Style.

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6672966#6672966
Freakishly Large PF Redspore

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6280307/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Greenhouse Grow

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/2726491#2726491
GT vs Plantasia, War of the Clones...

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4035272/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Honey...Something's Wrong With The Meatloaf, There Are Mushrooms Growing In It

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5189033#5189033
Horse Manure As Invirtro Substrate

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/723648#723648
Horse Manure Tek Pictorial

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=2&Number=5545848&page=1&fpart=1
I Love My Green House!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/803429/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Just Wish I Knew....AMAZING! Study!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=30&Number=1939583&page=0&fpart=1
Millet & Vermiculite "Red-Effect" (Pics)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3878283/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
MushroomMark's Bulk Double Tubs #3 - #10

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7524760#7524760
My First Coco Coir/Coffee Grow Harvest

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1410557#1410557
Old Tech Revisited

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6967150/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1/nt/5
Orissa India Bulk Grow Tub Tek

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6141843#Post6141843
Oyster Straw Log

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4183250#4183250
Oysters Fruiting From Quart Jar

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6622398/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Panellus Stipticus - Ideal Conditions To Maximize Growth And Luminosity

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/8093032/an/0/page/0/gonew/1#UNREAD
Pasta Cakes

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/8070912/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Penis Envy/Harvest PICS

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5887366#5887366
Penis Envy Cubensis Substrain

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6194327/page/0/fpart/all/vc/1
Penis Envy Grow Log/Tek Monotub (Possibly One Of The Best Grow Logs On Shroomery) I've wrote notes from this down from over a year ago and am still writing shit down.

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6163747#6163747
Penis Envy On Rye Grain Not Cased Fruited Directly From Jar! How This Will Turn?

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7833695/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Penis Pron

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4152569#
Pleurotus Cystidosis(Blue Oyster) On Coffee Grinds and Coco Coir Substrate

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5086526/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Psilocybe Cubensis Wild Bird Seed Spawn To Horse Manure

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6351137#6351137
Queensland Albino ON Kangaroo Manure

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5466814#5466814
Redboy Strain Fruiting On Hardwood

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Forum2&Number=4577994&Searchpage=1&Main=4576865&Words=rye&topic=&Search=true#Post4577994
Rye Bitches Rye!!!!!!!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5278987#Post5278987
Simple Invitro Manure Bags

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6086929#6086929
Solo Cup Tek Pics

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=30&Number=7675438&page=0&fpart=1
Some Hillbilly Mycoporn

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7478869/an/0/page/8
South American’s On Bulk

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5909750/page/0/fpart/all/vc/1/nt/2
Spawning To Coco Coir

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7779233/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Tasmanian: Full Canopy No Casing Update

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6439690#6439690
Texas Bags

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1673648/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Texas Straw Log

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6271961#6271961
Where You Can Go - IN TIME ( agar :smile:

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5128421#5128421
Zebra Strain? lol






Liquid Culture/Agar


http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4141612/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Agars LC Tek

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7497793#Post7497793
Icemon's LC Tek

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5874305#5874305
Liquid Culture Cloning Tek Pictorial

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3630072#3630072
Liquid Culture Filter

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5242253#5242253
Liquid Culture Lids That Don't Leak

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=2&Number=4141612&page=0&fpart=1
Liquid Culture The Easy Way

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3636204#3636204
Lynchburg Lemonade Liquid Culture

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3787784#3787784
Panaeolus Cyanascens (Jamaica) LC

http://www.fungifun.org/English/Agar
Pouring Agar For Simple Minds

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=2&Number=7887928&page=0&fpart=1
The Only LC Tech! The Liquid Culture How To Guide







How To
Discussions/Sponsor/Buy

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4534263/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
A Promising Means To Supercharge Potency (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4079015#4079015
A Warning About Horse Manure (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4076867#4076867
A Warning About Horse Manure (Discussion w/agar. Read)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5721267#5721267
Ahhhh! Invitro Pin W/O Full Popcorn Colonization *PIC*

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4829291#4829291
Airports - A Simple Way To Inject/Extract Liquids/Gases From Sealed Jars/Bags (Good Discussion)

http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/chemicals/bleachfactsheet.htm
Anthrax Spore Decontamination using Bleach (Sodium Hyphochlorite)(Bleach Household Discussion, READ)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6465151/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Anyone Not Sterilize Their Casing Layers...(Good Read Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5020955#5020955
Average Yields On Manure/Straw(Question)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4469546#4469546
Biggest Shroom Competition (Contest)

http://www.moldacrossamerica.org/notobleach.htm
Bleach Warning (Bleach Household Discussion, READ)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3503912#3503912
Bulk Growing ideas and Terrarium Plans, Please Help (agar help, Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7455901#7455901
Cakes Aren't Best Method For Beginners-WHY? READ STUDY (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7719350#7719350
Can You Have Too Much Humidity

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6024792#6024792
Charcoal's Secret (Activated Charcoal/Carbon Discussion)

http://www.vermiculite.org/properties.htm
Chemical Makeup Vermiculite Asbestos (Vermiculite Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2390329/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Clone From Dried Caps (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/5276/What-are-common-contaminants-of-the-mushroom-culture
Common Contaminants (Contamination)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4723476#4723476
Composting (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6686698#6686698
Conditions To Induce Fruiting (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/648961/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Crossing Two Strains IS Possible.Here's How. (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/5283/Dealing-with-Mushroom-Flies
Dealing With Mushroom Flies (STUDY)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5672233#5672233
Decent Microscope (Roger Rabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6458163#6458163
Edible Strains (Discussion)

http://www.erowid.org/plants/mushrooms/mushrooms_chemistry.shtml
Erowid Psilocybin Mushroom Vault (Potency Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6134524#6134524
Good Prices On Blowers For Flow hood (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5041177#5041177
Hemp/Marijuana Substrate (1 LB White Widow Colonized)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php? Cat=&Number=611022&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&VC=1
Hip's Bleach Experiment/TEK (Hippie3)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4305472#4305472
Horse Manure Fermentation And Why (Gerri)(Discussion W/Agar)

http://rabi.phys.virginia.edu/HTW/microwave_ovens.html
How Microwaves Work (Microwaves Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6281799#6281799
How To Isolate On Agar (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3641071#3641071
How To Heat Up A Miniature Fridge For use As An Incubator (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3746313#3746313
How To Spot Liquid Culture Contamination (Discussion w/agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6324733#6324733
I Have Cultivated Hydroponics Mushrooms (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6442571#6442571
Is Casing Really Necessary (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3927590#3927590
Laminar Flow Hood's With Pictures (Hood Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3927590#3927590
Laminar Flow Hood (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5169172#5169172
Let's Get The Truth On Heat Drying Mushrooms (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5680286#5680286
Living With Gnats.... (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5021128#5021128
Lowering Casing PH Level (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5561260/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Make Mushrooms Three Times More Potent WithTryptamine HCL

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php? Cat=0&Board=4&Number=2053800&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=
Mating Spores (Discussion)

http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/good/growon/media/inorg.html
Media: inorganic Media, Perlite, Vermiculite (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=5566971&page=0&vc=#Post5566971
Meet My Free Stir Plate...Links! Sir Mix A Lot! (Links, Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5544813#5544813
Mixing Strains (Discussion)

http://leda.lycaeum.org/?ID=16311
Mushroom Entheogen, The Measure Of The Mushroom by C.B. Gold (Discussion)

http://www.mycobags.com/frameset.html
Mice Bags (Buy)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6723152/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
New Here And Just Really Trying To Absorb All Of The Info...(Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2326229/page/0/fpart/2/vc/1
Oven Tek Discussion Anno/Agar (Discussion)

http://www.pharmaceuticalmushrooms.nwbotanicals.org/lexicon/cordyceps/hybridcordyceps.htm
Pharmaceutical Mushrooms - Cordyceps Sinensis(Hybridization)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4861357/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Please Read This(Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5194890/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
PF Albino And Penis Envy Cross Breeding Update! (Cross Breeding)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4865636#4865636
Poll: Who Things There Should Be A Beginner Cultivation Forum (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5580900/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Rye vs. PF (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/glossary2.php
Shroomery Glossary (Read Glossary)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4102334/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Spawn Mate (Discussion W/Agar)

http://www.spawnmate.com/prodssum.html
Spawn Mate, INC (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1903677#1903677
Straw Log Theory, Huge Fruits (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4160893#4160893
Tell One, Ten Will Know (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5608332#5608332
Think Washing Your Hands Is Sufficient (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4201865#4201865
This Is Why You Shouldn't Force Cool Your Jars (Discussion)

http://compost.css.cornell.edu/calc/lignin.html
The Effect Of Lignin On Biodegradability (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6829269#6829269
Too much Light Is Bad! (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4038727/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Vitamins, Amino Acids and/or Supplements For Our Fungus Ally? (Discussion)

http://www.straightdope.com/mailbag/mbluecheese.html
What Makes Blue Cheese Blue (Article)

http://www.microbiologybytes.com/iandi/3a.html
What Is Bacteria? (Bacteria Facts)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5519042#5519042
When growing Sclerotia SHAKE (Shaking Scelerotia)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5925703#5925703
Which Disinfectant? 10% Bleach OR Rubbing Alcohol OR Hydrogen Peroxide?

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5012981#5012981
Will A Strain Repeatedly Cloned Lose Its Vigor? (Good Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3921801/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
You Know Your Addicted To The Shroomery When...(Discussion)







CASING

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5781218#5781218
Fahtty Isolation/Mycelium Syringe Tek (Cloning Tek)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3290155#Post3290155
Getting The Most Out Of Your Casings! A Pinning Strategy (Casing)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7656684#7656684
Growing Clean Prints In A Cleanbag (Clean Prints Tek0

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7281980#7281980
Incubation Chamber To Fruiting Chamber Conversion Tek (Title)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5597856#5597856
Mushrooms Growing On Side Of Casing (Side Casing)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7407450/an/0/page/0
Pins, Lots Of Pins Pictures (Pinset)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5387531/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Pinset Correlation Between Substrate Depth (Discussion)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7708447/an/0/page/0
The Method Of Late Casing and Why It's A Good Idea(Fahster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5631638
Understanding Overlay With Pictures (Casing)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6570145/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
What's Better For Casing, MGMC or 50/50? (Casing)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6817156#6817156
Why You Should Use Medium Grade Vermiculite In Your Cake Recipe And Some Hillbilly MycoPron (Tek)

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:14 PM)

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Invisibledumbfounded1600
Stranger

Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467232 - 05/31/08 12:37 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Agar/Blue Helix/RogerRabbit/SixTango/Fahtster/RoadKill/Trippinthru/Creamcorn/

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6365648#6365648
An Odd Colonization Phenomena With Old LC (creamcorn)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5984436#5984436
Gotta Love B+.... A Lil' Mycoporn (creamcorn)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6052826#6052826
I Suck At Pinsets (creamcorn)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5916076#5916076
I Turned 4 Cakes Into What! (Creamcorn)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6081694#6081694
Stalling A Casing With Pins (creamcorn)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5574833#5574833
Tweaking PF Jars For Super fast Colonization (creamcorn)





http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5442778#5442778
1.5 Liter Bags(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4991579#4991579
2 ML Spore Solution Turns Into 600 ML.Of LC (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6760617#6760617
3 Liter WBS Jars & LC (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4314340#4314340
3M Micropore Surgical Tape = Lid Filter (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4058547#4058547
5 Types Of Humidifiers (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4833082#4833082
15 ML Syringe @ KMart & Walmart (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6269561#6269561
17 Quart Jars + 1/2 Gallon Tall Jar, At One Go. (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5379793#5379793
100-Year-Old PC (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4233810#4233810
300 Lb Industrial Contraption (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6297176#6297176
A Great Sense Of Satisfaction (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4971113#4971113
A New Way To Increase Humidity, And/Or FAE In Any Chamber (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4500512#4500512
A PF Type Bust Waiting To Happen (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5154062#5154062
A Stop To...Side Pinning (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5421799#5421799
Adding & Removing Moisture In Bulk Tub Substrates (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3785799#3785799
Adhesive Filter Patch (Cheap)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6665884#6665884
After School is Out (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5397786#5397786
Agars Fast Pint Super Cakes - Without A PC (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5341136#5341136
Agar's Home Made Compost Recipe For Bulk Substrates (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6365014#6365014
Artificial Bulk Substrate (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6752627#6752627
Automated Grow Chamber Downside (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3443282#3443282
Automated Misting/Fogger Unit, large Capacity (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5328829#5328829
Automated Pumps (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5047039#5047039
Back Necks (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6755356#6755356
Back Yard Birds ATE Well Today (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3772968#3772968
Bags, Boxes & Patience (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3669548#3669548
Beer & Apple Juice Is Not Only For Drinking (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5385257/an/0/page/0
Beginner Q&A - Agar's Journal (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3415668#3415668
Best Cheap Bulk Incubator &/Or Grow Chamber Around (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3713784#3713784
Best Little Glove Box Around (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5388657#5388657
Big Breasts, B/E, Substrate Size & Types (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5290920#5290920
Big Caps & Little Jars (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3543706#3543706
Big Daddy Wet Pasteurizing Machine (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5415545#5415545
Bulk Bags (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4521424#4521424
Bulk W/Out A PC (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6390929#6390929
Bumping Up The "N" In Coir (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3629308#3629308
CAC FOR EVEN PINNING (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4029582#4029582
Can Somebody Throw Me A Rope (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4065838#4065838
Canadians In The Victoria/Vacouver BC Area (h/manure)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3993043#3993043
Casing (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4011920#4011920
Casing Cover & Primordia (pin) Formation (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4314704#4314704
Cement Mixers & Horse Manure (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4947987#4947987
Cheap "One Armed" Glove Bag (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4377649#4377649
Chiller (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3760535#3760535
Clay Pots MOISTURE (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4489263#4489263
Clean Inoculations (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5368509#5368509
Clean Work (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3676343#3676343
Cocktails Anyone? 50% Beer, 50% Apple Juice (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4008067#4008067
Coffin Casing & Hydro Pumping (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5347960#5347960
Coir As Substrate (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6468375#6468375
Coir Substrate (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5150228#5150228
Coir As A Substrate (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5338692#5338692
Common Newbie Q & A (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4371218#4371218
Compost (More Than You Can Imagine)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5289652#5289652
Composting Info (Lots Of Info)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6273760/an/0/page/0
Condoms Anyone (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6609421#6609421
Contaminate Vectors (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3991815#3991815
Cooking (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3695918#3695918
Crude Effective Tyvek Filter Patch Hoop For Bags (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5526974#5526974
Daddy's Got A Brand New Bag (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3826300#3826300
Dead Freezers Are Fun (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5418801#5418801
DHY 2X Super (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4399963#4399963
Diatom Spawn (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5360373#5360373
Differing Strains & Spore Sets (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3960973/an/0/page/0
Doing Da Horse Manure (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6381868#6381868
Easy WBS/GRAIN Spawn Jar Lid (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5430494#5430494
Ebay Rip-Off Bastards (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3863933#3863933
Elementary & Often Overlooked (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4025479#4025479
Elongated Weak Stems (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5451963#5451963
FAE Machine W/Filters & Variable Speed Control (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6804175#6804175
Fast! (Agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4211529#4211529
Far Into LC Mycelium Matrix (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4295241#4295241
Field Judging H/Manure Quality (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5216644#5216644
Filling 100 Spore Syringes (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3474887#3474887
Filter Patch About Anything (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6453184#6453184
Fire Fang (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4964261#4964261
Flaming PC Lighter (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6504193#6504193
Flushed Out (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6422718#6422718
Food For Thought (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6778458/an/0/page/7/gonew/1#UNREAD
Freezer Pasteurize (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5322391#5322391
Frozen Semi-Solid WBS (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5034070#5034070
Funny Where This Hobby Leads To (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4993457#4993457
Gardening Store Fall Close-Out Sales (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4917463#4917463
G/B Gloves (Score)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3570284#3570284
Getting A H.E.P.A Filtered Flowhood Together (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5441549#5441549
Ghetto Eberbach Blender (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4732755#4732755
Ghetto Shroom Drying (Low Budget)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3733996#3733996
Glad ware Oven Containers (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6326395#6326395
GladWare Oven Trays (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3967601#3967601
Gnarly Things Loll(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4794336#4794336
Gnat Sucking Machine(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6433375#6433375
Good Products Priced Right(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6286546#6286546
Gourmet Spawn(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3635651#3635651
GrainTwoGrain Time Saver(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4833082#4833082
GrainTwoGrain Lids(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6817707#6817707
Grain LC(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6938690#6938690
Grain LC @ Work(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3795323#3795323
Great Gizmo(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3774417#3774417
Great Growth In 50 Hours(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3963674#3963674
Gunk In Liquid Culture(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5207352#5207352
Hay Seeds (Tiny Ones)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4583181#4583181
Heavy Duty Incubator & Fruiting Chamber(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6414656#6414656
HDPE 2 Milk / Water Jug Cakes & Spawn(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6377287#6377287
High Times(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5108743#5108743
Holiday Trays Forgotten About(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6760595#6760595
Horse Manure(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6436531#6436531
Horse Manure Mixing Shedding(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4292276#4292276
Horse Manure Problems & Why?(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5190772#5190772
How A Mushroom Fruit-Body Grows In Size(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6753298#6753298
How to pasteurize "LOTS" Of Substrate(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6798435#6798435
Hydrating & Pasteurizing Bulk Substrate Properly(agar)

*\http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6802619#6802619
I Don't Do Cakes(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5372024#5372024
I Love Cute Little Fans For Automating FAE(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5354299#5354299
I Would Suggest Anyone Who Plans To Stay In This Hobby(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4036934#4036934
Ideal Incubator & Fruiting Chamber(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3984118#3984118
If You Ever Happen To...(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4901544#4901544
If You Have, Or Ever Get Gnats(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3845052#3845052
Incubator & Fruiting Chamber(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6748206#6748206
Industrial Size Coolmist(agar) Distant Future(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3835853#3835853
Injection Port(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6437214#6437214
In The Not To(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3867397#3867397
Just A Wise Things To Do With Grain/WBS Spawn Bags(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6337345#6337345
Just Wondering Why No One Has...(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4497925#4497925
Kelp Meal Additive(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7002007#7002007
Knocks My Socks Off(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6329547#6329547
Lazy Pasteurization(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3756541#3756541
Let There Be Light & Fruit(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3972290#3972290
Like A Timex That Won't Quit Ticking(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5360221#5360221
Liquid Culture & Gas Exchange(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6780167#6780167
Liquid Culture One Generation(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6948274#6948274
Liquid Culture Rhizo(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4387639#4387639
Liquid Culture Strings(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4141612#4141612
Liquid Culture The Easy Way(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5409687#5409687
Liquid Culture Trivia(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6386406#6386406
LOL(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Chttp://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6282693#6282693at/0/Number/5631638
Long Term Dry Spore Storage & Dry Syringe Making (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5380495#5380495
Magic Casing Mixture Recipe(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6427030#6427030
Magic Elixir(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5072074#5072074
Making Prints & Spore Solution(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3670213#3670213
Martini's anyone?(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4049778#4049778
Maturity(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6345298#6345298
Metal Spawn Jar Lid & Gas Exchange Filtering(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5133841#5133841
Misting & Spray Boss(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3750725#3750725
Mixed Grains - Spawn and/or Substrate(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6789654
MGMC Potting Mix As A Casing?(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4243756#4243756
Nifty LC Tool For Bulk Inoculating(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5407957/an/0/page/7/gonew/1#UNREAD
No Grain, No Spawn OR PC, Bulk Method(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6290715#6290715
No LC Stir Plate?(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6385420#6385420
No PC LC & Simple Port(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5009483#5009483
No PC WBS(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5179689#5179689
No Question About Which Two To Clone(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3771660#3771660
Now, That's What I’m Talking About(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6892799#6892799
Obsessive Compulsive(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3963633#3963633
Old News(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5431500#5431500
Old School 10 CC Poppers(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5147004#5147004
Old School Hygrometer(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4532964#4532964
Old School Things Are Better Than Some New Things(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6273490#6273490
Online Supplies(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5296250#5296250
Open Air Inoculation Method(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5329179#5329179
Open Cell Foam(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4776863#4776863
Optimal Incubator & Fruiting Chamber(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4451657#4451657
Optimal Casing Buffer(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6339502#6339502
Optimal Lids(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3978160#3978160
Panties Drop Tonight(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6296332#6296332
Pasteurizing 1200 LBS Of Substrate A Week(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4342593#4342593
Pasteurizing 150/250lbs Of Horse Manure(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6544352#6544352
Patience, Nature & Time(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6677672#6677672
PC'ing Jars The Wrong Way(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6488469#6488469
PC'S & Scorching Content(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6351357#6351357
Peat/Vermiculite & PH Adjusting(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5415641#5415641
Peek-a-boo(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6786249#6786249
Pencil Torch(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6414948#Post6414948
Perlite Bulk Spawn - No PC Method - Trial(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6406785#6406785
Perlite (In A Casing Layer)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3957652#3957652
Perfect Little Heater For A Small Or Large Space(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6391876#6391876
Perlite Spawn(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6498664#6498664
PF Classic Should Be Updated(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4020722#4020722
Pinset(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5109995#5109995
Plastic Shoe Box's, With Lids(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6533612#6533612
Pre-Hydrated, Sterilized, Dehydrated, Re-Hydrated Sorghum(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5407957#5407957
Preview - No Grain Spawn Or PC Bulk Method(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4295407#4295407
Primo Oyster Shell Flour Buffer(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5178328#5178328
Printing(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5276177#5276177
Prints In Squat Wide-Mouth Glass Jars(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5175618#5175618
Prints, On Aluminum Foil, Clear Impulse Sealed Covers(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4182353#4182353
Prints On Laminate Card Stock(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4098770#4098770
Polyester Casing Cover(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3978875#3978875
Pure White Liquid Culture Pancakes(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3988862#3988862
Quasi-Invitro Cakes For Sanitary Prints(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3686045#3686045
Rape Seed(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3984179#3984179
Retiring 90% Of The Jars?(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3983767#3983767
R.I.P(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6475054#6475054
Ronco(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6336614#6336614
Shaking It(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4439462#4439462
Shaking Spawn Bags & Jars(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4304812#4304812
Shaking WBS/RYE Jars (agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6355668#6355668
Sign Language(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3498709#3498709
Simple Easy Synthetic Bulk(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3518613#3518613
Size Matters (Females Lie About It & Mushrooms Don't)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6356159#6356159
Shit Heaven(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6778458#6778458
So, The Other Day(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3982654#3982654
Soaking WBS - Grains & Times - Final Answer(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4184971#4184971
Sometimes Business Doesn't Make Sence(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6649067#6649067
Something All New/Intermediate Hands Should Read(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5386183#5386183
Sometimes Life Is Just Sweet(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6347213#6347213
Spawning(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3922114#3922114
Spawning Bulk(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5179609#5179609
Spore Tabs(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5279368#5279368
Spored Out(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3462220/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Spores, G2G, Liquid Culture, Cloning & Colonization Time(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6698300#6698300
Spring Around The Corner & Composting Time(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6782020#6782020
Spring Is Here(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5293823#5293823
Steamers(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5340722#5340722
Sterilization Autoclave Bags(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4094246#4094246
STEVIA & POTENCY(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4054593#4054593
Store Bought Bagged Manure & "So Called" Compost(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4049724#4049724
Straw Or Hay - The Difference(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3835878#3835878
Sumatra(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3883256#3883256
Super Cling Wrap(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5418282#5418282
Super Spawn(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5097088#5097088
Substrate & Casing Cover Moisture Content(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4345897#4345897
Syringe - Jar Inoculation Done Cleanly (Without A Glove Box)(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6660639#6660639
Testing Moisture Content Of Substrate And/Or Casing Mix(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3751419#3751419
The Advantage Of A Big PC(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4371250#4371250
The Good Stuff(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5461477#5461477
The Old Expression, Shit A Brick(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5460531#5460531
The Perfect Pasteurizing Machine For $8(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4078376#4078376
The Ultimate Mushroom Dryer/Dehydrator(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6263964#6263964
Thrift Store Browsers(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6576375#6576375
Thrift Store Find(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4467927#4467927
Thrift Store Item To Look For Bulk Pasteurize(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5524899#5524899
Time Lapse(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4006736#4006736
Tiny Myc Flowers(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4490252#4490252
Trivia - ? Lb Mushroom Bricks(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6286477#6286477
Tub Filter(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6378527#6378527
Turbinado LC(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3720061#3720061
Ultra Ultrasonic If You Want FOG, This Is IT(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4040012#4040012
Utter BS(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5012990#5012990
Vacutainer Air Port(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6399728#6399728
V - Oil(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6464655#6464655
Waste Not(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4153488#4153488
Wet & Dry(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4187577#4187577
What Is A CoolMist(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4063757#4063757
What The Druids Really Worshipped(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6270779#6270779
Where To Start(agar)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4501908#4501908
Who says You Can't Do It Cheaply(agar)


Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 04:52 PM)

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
InvisibleHoleSnype
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Registered: 04/27/06
Posts: 4,315
Loc: DF DUBS
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467234 - 05/31/08 12:38 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

What is this all about?


--------------------
"I'm sofa king we todd did." ~ Rick James

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Invisibledumbfounded1600
Stranger

Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600] * 1
    #8467239 - 05/31/08 12:39 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/597256#597256
10" Gulf Coast Off A BRF Cake(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/588672#588672
Acadian Coast Cakes Exploding(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/600994#600994
Acadian Coast 4 Cakes 2nd Flush(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1435580#1435580
Anno Has Left The Building(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1234783#1234783
Allen Strain ON Straw Updated Jan 24th 2003(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4314718#4314718
Buying Used Food Dehydrators At 2nd Hand Stores(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/798173#798173
Bulk Substrate Incubator/Horse Manure Tek(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/530823#530823
Cambodian Cake With Weird Cluster(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/564606#564606
Cambodian Casing/Coco Coir Grow Log(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6627012#6627012
Good News About Vermiculite....(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3882670#3882670
Happy Birthday Pris!!!(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/723303#723303
Horse Manure Tek Pictorial(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/559291#559291
Hydro Pod Grow Log By Roadkill(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3939194#3939194
Hydra-Pod Revisited - South Americans(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/664863#664863
Keepers Creeper on Da Manure!(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/664667#664667
Mycobags From Sporeworks Contest!(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/645376#645376
No Idea What These Are!(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/647953#647953
Orissa India On Horse Manure/Updated!(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/647963#647963
PES Hawaiian On Horse Manure/Roadkill(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1435580#1435580
Please Read Before Posting Any Questions! Plus Usefull Links(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1303802#1303802
Please Talk In The 3rd Person When Posting!(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=Pictures&Number=1323317
Poor Man's Domed Terrarium With A Twist(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/601794#601794
Psilocybe Cubensis "Keepers Creepers"(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/636752#636752
Psilocybe Cubensis Un ID Florida Strain/F+ Strain(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/588681#588681
Rizmorphic Puerto Rican Cakes(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6334604#6334604
South AMerican.....(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4359637#4359637
Still Air Boxes(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4825202#4825202
Stopharia Strain Grown On Tenn Stud Pre-Pastuerized Horse Manure(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/552239#552239
Success From My First Casing....GC's(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1412856#1412856
Tour Of Fungi Perfecti....Ton Of Pictures! Beware!(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/643944#643944
Un ID Floriduh Strain/By Pleezr/Final Harvest(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/592375#592375
Update!!! South American's Cased(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4348849#4348849
Wild Bird Seed....On Sale At Petco(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4162611#4162611
Well The Keeper Replied To My Email(RoadKill)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1310658#1310658
World Of Working About Working Around Your Sink!!!(RoadKill)






http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5747304#5747304
A Cool Mushroom Video(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3957572#3957572
A Few Micrographs Of Germinating Spores(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/2455578#2455578
A Question For The Science Nerds(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4129183#4129183
Abalone Oysters On Coffee Grinds(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7689871#7689871
Aluminum Contamination Of Mushrooms?(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5940197#5940197
Attention New Growers

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3920674#3920674
An Outdoor RedBoy Grow(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6063416#6063416
Biggest Reishi I've Ever Seen(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5139398#5139398
Birds Nest Fungus(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6001942#6001942
Chicken Of The Woods-Pacific Northwest(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3941617#3941617
Clash Of The Titans(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5703541#5703541
Cloning Pins Directly To Agar(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5546994#5546994
Cobweb Picture For Identification Purposes(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7941310#7941310
Cold Fusion Geeks?(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5094441#5094441
Cool Veil Tearing Picture(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7490010#7490010
Cordyceps In Washington State(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5466797#5466797
Cubensis As A Contaminant(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7027870#7027870
Evaluating Mushroom Strains For Antibiotic Properties(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4721700#4721700
Fall 2005 PNW Edible Finds(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4279925#4279925
Ganoderma On Ziploc Bags(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5867036#5867036
Genoderma Oregonese(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4247606#4247606
Ganodermra Tsugai(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7324647#7324647
Hericium On Old Telephone Books(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6214514#6214514
Hericium, Shiitake, and Reishi Projects(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6678745#6678745
Hericium, The Lion's Mane On Pf Cakes(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5189033#5189033
Horse Manure AS Invitro Substrate(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3977742#3977742
How Early Can A Grow Log Start(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6496286#6496286
How Not To Cold Shock Even If It Works(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6044833#6044833
Hypsizygus Ulmarius(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6595951#6595951
Lipstick Mold?(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6408687#6408687
Massive Spore Discharge Clogging AC Unit(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6582861#6582861
Metabolite Pictures/Updated With Gill Shots and Cheilocystidia(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6483665#6483665
Mycelium On Petri Dish Pictures(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6296415#6296415
My Nephew's Outdoor Shaggy Mane Project(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6778937#6778937
NTSC VS PAL Encoding Standards For DVD(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1410557#1410557
Old Tech Revisited(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6713040#6713040
Outdoor Oysters In Laundry Basket New Pictures(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6141843#6141843
Oyster Straw Log(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4183250#4183250
Oysters Fruiting From Quart Jar(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3920674#3920674
Penis Envy(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4152569#4152569
Pleurotus Cystidosus On Coffee Grinds And Coir Substrate(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7496486#7496486
PNW Cordyceps(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4760305#4760305
PNW Chanterelles(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5700697#5700697
PNW SpringTime Oysters(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3946439#3946439
Posting MPEG's(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5104417#5104417
Recycling Old Humidifiers(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5466814#5466814
Redboy Strain On Hardwood(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3846418#3846418
Reishi(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5995553#5995553
Reishi Hunting In The Pactific Northwest, USA(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6713180#6713180
Reishi on A Telephone Book(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5742816#5742816
Seattle Area Pink Oysters(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3526953#3526953
Something A Bit Different(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6748848#6748848
Something A Bit Different On PF Tek(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7504554#7504554
Shaggy Manes In Houseplants(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6169682#6169682
Shiitake(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6296466#6296466
Shiitake-Lentinula Edodes 75 vs Lentinus Squarrosulus(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6572996#6572996
Still Doing Sterile Work Without Gloves?(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7955073#7955073
Strain Discussion Thread-Here-Only!(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6610766#6610766
The Difference Between Vermiculite & Perlite W/Pics(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/2786720#2786720
Third Flush Mexicana Pins(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6615012#6615012
Trichoderma On Pf Cake Picture(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4345179#4345179
Very Smart Mycelium(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5104434#5104434
White Gilled and Sporeless(RogerRabbit)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5128421#5128421
Zebra Strain? LoL.RedBoy(RogerRabbit)






http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1492086#1492086
1 Quart Of Spore Solution At A Whack(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1312924#1312924
3.5 Oz Shroom(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/785953#785953
$11 Filter Fabric Grow Tub Colonizing(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1308991#1308991
18 Gauge Core Biopsy Guns(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/607148#607148
50 Gallon PC(SixTango)

*http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1240953#1240953
Beyond "Cakes".......(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/908805#908805
Bird Seed "Cake"?(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/761011#761011
Brown Rice Syrup(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1383190#1383190
Bulk Substrate Trays(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1452547#1452547
Bulking Up Da Manure W/ Wheat Straw(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/955468#955468
Casing Covers & Terra Cotta Pots(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1328415#1328415
Clear Plastic Deli Containers Are Great For Making Prints In(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1536483#1536483
Composting(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/776119#776119
Crock Pot Pasturizing(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1282681#1282681
Dry Eat Pasturization (In The Oven)(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/777091#777091
Filter Fabric 200 to 1000 Sq Ft Rolls Cheap(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/780303#780303
Filter Material Test With Pictures(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/843149#843149
Gallon Jars Of Spawn(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/887934#887934
Gallon Pot Of Compost(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1480209/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Ghosts In The Fog(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1251459#1251459
Good Links(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/536455#536455
GoodWill(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1348626#1348626
Grain Two Grain Transfers(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1519411#1519411
Hand Fulls(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/996253#996253
Handy Dandy Substrate Guide(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1560407#1560407
Huge Yields(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/780806#780806
Incompicious Incubator (Pics)(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1519901#1519901
In The Beginning, There Were Spores...(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/596473#596473
Jar & Filter Test Update(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1480705#1480705
Just Grab The Sumbtich & Jerk(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1453559#1453559
Kills Tric Stone Dead(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/594750#594750
Lids With Filter & External Injection Port(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1374218#1374218
Metal-To-Metal Lid Filter(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1351790#1351790
Mini Clean Room(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1281077#1281077
Multiple Use Lid(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1488404#1488404
Nuclear Grade UPLA 24 X 24 X 12(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/957739#957739
Ones Got A Hard On......!(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/852737#852737
Optimal Compost Substrate Composition Question, ???(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1568203#1568203
Pasteurization(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/901843#901843
Pins On Compost(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1560052#1560052
Scott's 3 In 1, Use Bonemeal To Boost Nitrogen(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1582645#1582645
Some Days Are Better Than Others(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1348401#1348401
Spawning(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1378173#1378173
Spawn Ratio Bulk(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1326952#1326952
Spawning WBS To Compost(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/780520#780520
Strain that Eats Contaminants(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1541991#1541991
Straw Users Please Read(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1489691#1489691
Sundomed Propagation Trays(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1527463#1527463
Targeting Contaminants Rate Before Moving On(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1041528#Post1041528
The Importance Of A Casing Layer(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/537760#537760
The Racoon's Mini/Bio/Reactor(SixTango)

http://www.fao.org/DOCREP/004/AB497E/ab497e06.htm#TopOfPage
The Training, Mushrooms For Disabilities(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1583959#1583959
This, That Or The Other Thing As Spawn(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1544789#1544789
Tons Of Contaminations With Flow Hood!!!(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1302557#1302557
TranSpore 3M Surgical Tape(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1223132/page/1/fpart/1/vc/1
Voices From The Compost Pile(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1006956#1006956
Winter Supply(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1041082#1041082
Why Horse & Bovine Manure Is King!(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1539182#1539182
Words In The Wind(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/996229#996229
Would You Believe(PopCorn)(SixTango)

*http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/1541707#1541707
Yield & Rule Of "THUMB"(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/960069#960069
You Want 8 Inches. I'll Give You 8 Inches(SixTango)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/535645#535645
Zeolite(SixTango)







http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4872154
Ausi Panaeolus Cyanescens - Liquid Culture To Fruits(Blue Helix W/ Lots Of Pictures)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5392997#5392997
Clear Mylar Window For A Mushrooms Chamber(Blue Helix)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4340904#4340904
Constant - Stir LC Showing Expotential Growth In First 3.5 Days(Blue Helix /Pics)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6196104#6196104
King Oyster (Eryngii) and Casing For Outdoor Fruiting(Blue Helix)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6304332#6304332
My Glovebox Lid Made Of Clear Furniture Wrap And Velcro(Blue Helix Pics)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4336183#4336183
Questions About Storing Liquid Cultures(Blue Helix)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/3197325#3197325
Sporeworks Reishi Spore Success Pictures(Blue Helix)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5036879#5036879
Ultrasonic Vacutainer Spore Mixing - A Power Technique Suitable For Anyone(Blue Helix)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/4311391#4311391
What Are People Doing To Select A Substrain That Shows Rhizomorphic Growth?(Blue Helix)



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7893964#7893964
Faht Makes A Bulk Tub(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6590986#6590986
Faht's Oven Bag Clone Tek(Fahster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5781218#5781218
-Fahtty Isolation/Mycelium Syringe Tek(Fahster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7656684#7656684
Growing Clean Prints In A CleanBag(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6886717#6886717
Homemade Lids That Have Stood The Test Of Time(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6610366#6610366
Koh Samui's(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6705190#6705190
My First "Official" Bulk Grow(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7708447#7708447
My Method Of Late Casing And Why It's A Good Idea(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7833695#7833695
Penis Pron(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7478869#7478869
SA's On Bulk(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7675438#7675438
Some Hillbilly Mycoporn(Fahtster)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6667397#6667397
Treasure Coast MisHap(Fahtster)

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 04:54 PM)

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Invisibledumbfounded1600
Stranger

Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467248 - 05/31/08 12:41 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

How To Do/Make Things

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6972036/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Bulk Steamer Pasteurize Tek (Lots Of Pics)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7555252#7555252
How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier...(How To Build Bulk Humidifier)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6267981/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
How To Take Care Of Bug Problems(Bug Problem Removal)

http://www.shroomery.org/9189/Automated-Greenhouse-Guide-By-Helltick
How To Automated Greenhouse Guide(Build Automated Greenhouse)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7386659/an/0/page/0
How Trent Makes A Green House(Build Automated Greenhouse)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7490393/an/0/page/0
Building A Stack n' View Monotub(monstermitch)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5930161/an/0/page/0
How To Construct A Monotub(monstermitch)

http://www.mushroomadventures.com/compost.html
Dry Mushroom Growing Compost Pasteurized(Making Compost)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5489469/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
All You need To know About Psilocybin/Psilocin Extraction(Extraction)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6214962#6214962
ULTIMATE LIDS(Tippinthru a.k.a agars g.f with lids)

http://www.angelfire.com/bc3/entheo/ninja.html
Ninjas Grow...lol(Laugh)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=2&Number=4024838&page=0&fpart=1
Turning A Closet, Into A Fruiting Chamber(Title Says It)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4731479/an/0/page/0
How To Get An Even Pin Set Some Basic Tips(scatmanrav)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/4024831/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
How Scatman Does Grain(Grain, scatmanrav)

http://www.mykoweb.com/articles/cultivation.html
MykoWeb: Getting Started With Mushroom Cultivation(Tek)

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3077244/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
POTM-Winners' Gallery (mycoporn at it's best)








HERE'S SOME MORE THAT I JUST SAVED BECAUSE I LIKED THEM. THERE'S ONE WHERE RR CUTS MONSTER MITCH IN HALF. I THINK IT' CALLED POPCORN SOMETHING





http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7302226#Post7302226
Cubensis loves Hardwood Chips!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7490824#7490824
What Are Your personal Experiences With Growing Cubies On Wood Chips?

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7361706#7361706
RR Style Mono-Tub Question

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7546305#7546305
Using Gravity For C02 Removal

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7575871#7575871
Can't You Just Oven Paseurize At 160F In The Oven

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7606011/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Bleach and Pinset Amazing results!!!!

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/7664184/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
Moon and Inoculations

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/8128686/page/0/fpart/1/vc/1
MAJOR Loss Of Potency On The 2nd Flush On Coir

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5721267#5721267
Ahhhh! Invitro Pin W/O Full PopCorn Colonization PIC









http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5543678#Post5543678
Mixing Strains

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6176111#Post6176111
Can 2 Different Strains Be Used To Colonize The Same Manure

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/6710863#Post6710863
3 Strains 1 Casing

http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7025485#Post7025485
Shroom Fight





NEXT REPLY IS GOING TO START ALL OF AGARS NOTES.

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 04:57 PM)

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Invisibledumbfounded1600
Stranger

Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600] * 1
    #8467252 - 05/31/08 12:43 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

AGARS NOTES ON 'MUSHROOM CULTIVATION FORUM'




INCUBATION

*To properly incubate jars, you want a consistent heat source that surrounds the jars with warm air. Not a heat source in direct, or close indirect contact with the jars. Direct, or indirect contact with a heat source will cause the bottom of the jars to heat up. If the ambient RH is lower, outside the jars, you will have moisture EXIT the jar & jar content will dry out.
My foaf uses a large lateral metal filing cabinet, with heat pad underneath cabinet. He also keeps an open water jar in the bottom cabinet drawer, to help equalize the inner jar & ambient air RH factor. Because the cabinet is both Big & TALL, the bottom drawer temperature is 87F & the top-drawer temperature is 82F. But, because that range is okay, it all works out.
An easy jar incubator can be made from a large ice chest (cooler). Lay a heating pad on the bottom, use something for a grate, to allow air space between the heat mat & jar bottoms. If you have lots of jars, have a grate between each stacked level. Keep an open bottle of water on - or directly above the heating pad. Adjust heat pad accordingly, to temperature stays around 85F. Simple as that. The heating pad is UNDER the cabinet. Not IN IT. So, there is about a 4-inch air space between heat mat & bottom drawer. Heat rises. The jars you see are WBS incubating. Heat without HUMIDITY, will cause the moisture in the jars to EVAPORATE. 1/2 gallon day 3 after G2G transfer. Fully colonized on day 10. INCUBATING HEATING PAD

*My foaf uses a gallon jar of water, with a heating wire around it, in his incubator system to keep humidity HIGH (around 80+%). He does so - BECAUSE - rh seeks to average itself out, given the chance. If your incubator has a very LOW rh & your jars have a high internal rh, you get gas/moisture exchange through the tyvek until they average out. Which WILL cause jars to LOOSE moisture. Sounds like that may be your problem I.,E., jars loosing moisture & getting to DRY. INCUBATION/DRYING OUT



PRESSURE COOKER

*Save yourself a LOT of BS. Save & spend a bit more & get an ALL AMERICAN, THE BIGGER THE BETTER.
They are (IMHO) the BEST PC made in the WORLD. Built like a TANK, have a metal to metal seal, rather than a rubber gasket & will last your lifetime & you can pass it on to the next generation & it will last their lifetime +++++.
You will NEVER regret it.
The bigger the better thing is this: You might start with a few quart WBS spawn jars. Once you get rolling, you will want to do them 10 or 18 at a time. Then, if you really get rolling, you will move up to BAGS. You can do a LOT of BULK in BAGS, with a BIG PC.
Watch eBay like a HAWK :wink:.........look for a AA 925 (if you can afford it. If you have a bigger wallet, get an AA 941. PRESSURE COOKER



GRAINS

*To each his own, IMHO. However, each grain, seed, or whatever of WBS has a natural capacity for moisture & lets call it 100%. Anything beyond that is simply more than 100%. Which leaves you with a jar - that is OFTEN difficult to shake, because it is a bit soggy & grains sticks to the jar. But, whatever works for you - does. Simple as that. You just have to do it & see? Fact of the matter is this. When you soak WBS, it expands as it absorbs moisture. Once it has reached its maximum moisture capacity, it stops expanding & under the right temperature conditions - sprouts. As an example, fill a 5 gallon bucket 3/4 full of WBS & fill the bucket with water. Within 24 hours, the WBS will have usually have expanded to the point - the bucket is full of WBS & little or no water is visible. Which equals a 20 to 25% expansion factor. Once WBS has reached it’s natural maximum moisture capacity (in normal room temperatures), internal endospores germinate. So - generally - a 12 to 24 hour soak works perfect. You can even soak WBS to the point you see a FEW individual grains sprout. Then, rinse, drain, jar up & PC quick. LOL he soak / simmer thing is something we all go through. My experience with "simmering" grains almost always led to mushy - sticky grains & on occasion - wet spot contamination - in jars. I prefer WBS because of its low cost & availability - everywhere. No simmer is necessary with WBS. Just experimenting around, I have supplemented WBS spawn with rye (5 % per batch), rape seed (5%) & cracked corn (5%) & had great results. LOL? The soak / simmer thing is something we all go through. I prefer WBS because of its low cost & availability - everywhere. No simmer is necessary with WBS. The object of a soak is to HYRATE the various grains in WBS to their natural maximum moisture capacity. In doing so, endospores normally germinate at room temperatures. Neither is there any "set" soak time. 12 to 16 hours usually allows the grains to hydrate. You can tell - because they expand about 25% - as in - fill a 5 gallon bucket (or any container) 5/8 to? Full of WBS, add water above the WBS - 12 to 16 hours later - container is FULL of WBS & little or no water is visible. WBS can remain viable in the soak stage until it either begins to STINK, FERMENT &/or SPROUT? At which time it is best to THROW IT OUT. After an adequate SOAK, Simmering simply turns WBS soft &/or mushy. Which CAN lead to jars that CLUMP (unshakable); have too much water content, which CAN lead to dreaded WET SPOT type contamination. You can also jack up the nutrient values of WBS prior to & during the soak stage. Prior to soaking, add around 5% by volume RYE, CRACKED CORN &/or RAPE SEED (or all of them). Prior to soaking, add a couple cups of filtered dung or compost tea. If you don’t have the tea, stick a couple handfuls of aged manure (cow or horse) in a nylon stocking (or any permeable cloth) & add that to the soaking mixture & stir it in. The nutrients in the manure will become soluble in the soak water & the grains will absorb some of them. WBS is toilet flush simple. Object is to get maximum moisture content into the grains - prior to Pressure Cooking Again, there is no written in steel soak time & no simmer is needed. G2G transfers are great for making more WBS & G2G colonizes super fast.  WBS

*86F is a little HIGH. Jars generate a degree of internal heat - themselves. Suggest an incubation temp of 80F. (+/- a degree or 2). As far as "floaters" in WBS. Leave them in. Hulls & sunflower seeds make up most of the floaters. Both provide lignin (a good thing) & sunflower seed husks (being an oil seed) provide more lignin & the internal part provides fatty oils that are also a good thing. As far as "simmering", I don't. No need - if you do soak properly. (But each has an opinion about it). SOAKING.... isn't about the amount of TIME - WBS SOAKS. It is about HYDRATING the seed - to its natural MAXIMUM moisture holding capacity. There is NO SET RULE ON SOAKING TIME. 12/24/36 hours all works. (So long as seeds DON'T GERMINATE) Fill container 2/3rds to 3/4 full of WBS. Allow soaking until seed has expanded (from absorbing moisture) around 25% (+/- a few %). Which is ALL the seed will expand from natural hydration of moisture. (Simple - fill container 2/3rds full - it expands to almost fill the container - moisture level is good to go) Simmering may add a few more percent of moisture. But, if simmered, (at least with me) - some seeds get soft / mushy - burst & split open. Which -(IMHO)- isn't a good thing. As it releases starch, which can cause the WBS to become sticky, clump & hard to shake - after PC'ing. In my experience, jars with a lot of burst seeds, don't colonize as fast, or as well as jars without a lot of burst seeds. Moreover, if the mix is a bit wet, burst seeds create a paste like gunk in the bottom parts of the jar, which is prone to wet spot bacteria, or doesn't colonize (not a good thing). If inoculating with spores. Germination can take from 5 to 12 days (average). Germination will look a bit off/white - cloudy & thin, as it is in its infancy. Once well germinated & myc begins to thrive & grow, it turns snow white & colonization begins. If inoculating with a liquid culture, you often see myc take a foothold in 12 hours, turn white - in a few more hours, then begin to colonize very fast (as it was already germinated - so it skips that initial time span). WBS

*Leaving grain spawn lids a 1/4 turn loose, then tightening them as you remove then from a PC allows a couple things to happen (IMHO).
Even though pressure inside the PC equalizes in the PC's content.
1. It allows quicker safer sterilization of the jars content, as steam generated from the water inside the PC to penetrate the grain, inside the jar. Rather than more heat creating steam inside the jars, from the jars internal moisture content, which can/may vent out some moisture - when the jars are removed from the PC ...HOT. Which can throw off your jars internal moisture content.
2. With a lid on TIGHT, the only way air/gas/steam can go in or out of the container - is through the filter. When Pacing - any steam generated inside the jar can/will pick up some micronutrients off of or, from the grain/grain & saturate the filter with micro - nutrients.
Once a filter is nutrient saturated (like that), it can become a germinating / breeding ground for external contaminates, which may/can/will sometimes WICK into the jars content.
I gather that from the fact (at least in my experience) wbs/grain jars that have been fully sterilized - most often become contaminated by something that wicks in through the filter. As the contaminate is often seen on the underside of the lid, or on the upper surface of the wbs/grain, inside the jar. Hey, whatever works for you - DOES. Don't change/fix it - if it is not broken. This method works for me. PCING GRAIN JARS

*Try soaking the rye 24 hours, then steep/simmer in hot water until the rye is fully expanded (without many bursting). That will allow endospores to germinate. Rinse, drain & load jars 2/3rds to 3/4 full. PC @ 15 psi 90 minutes. Shake jars when removed from PC. Allow cooling to room temps. Wear hair covering, facemask & alc swab your hands, when you inoculate. Swab jar tops with 70% alc, just before inoculation. When you inoculate, remove needle sheath & keep needle in alc soaked - wrap swab, for minimal exposure to open air. Hold swab wrapped needle over inoculation hole, push needle through swab, through tyvek & inoculate. As you pull needle out, keep it wrapped in the swab. Use alc swabbed scotch tape to cover inoculate hole. Might help? Might not. But, it is a very sterile procedure for inoculation. RYE TEK

*Rye or WBS sprouts is like vegetables. They cook, release fluids, starches, other whatnot & get mushy. That tends make a spawn jar / bag clump up pretty solid. Which isn't a good thing, as you are looking for as many individual fully colonized grains as possible for colonization to spread out from. Moreover, if you have cooked veggie like stuff spread out in a substrate - at spawning time - you have a lot exposed readily available carbohydrates that contaminates (trich especially) flourish on, if they can get to them. Intact fully colonized grain/wbs doesn't expose that to contaminates. GRAINS SOAKING

*18 / 24 hour soak is a must do thing. Long a soak as possible, so long as WBS doesn’t ferment (smell very badly), sprout, or rot is best. No simmer needed.
If you have some aged / leached / steer / horse manure around, either brew some into tea, or add softball size handful into a nylon stocking (doubled up - several times)& add cup of strained tea, or use nylon stocking bag - like tea bag & leave it in the soak & stir halfway through soak.
Adds significant N to soak water, which WBS absorbs & myc loves. You will get bigger better - everything. WBS

*To WET, it eventually gets wet spot bacterial infection & stalls. To DRY, it colonizes for a while, then just stalls, for lack of proper moisture content. Muli-spore inoculate can take up to 2 weeks to show germination & growth. If no germination were seen within that time, I would start over. G2G usually begins to show good growth within 3 days. Liquid culture should/will show good growth within 3 days. Agar isolate wedge often shows growth inside 4 days. Optimal LC or G2G (quart jars) usually colonizes 100% inside of 14 days (under optimal conditions). WBS

*Most often stalls in healthy seed/grain spawn jars are caused by lack or loss of moisture. If jars are incubated in very low external Rh situations, they tend to lose a lot of moisture. As the jars internal Rh tries to equalize through the gas exchange filter - to that outside the jar, causing significant moisture loss (from inside the jar). Maintaining a high Rh inside spawn jar incubators - during hot -dry - summer months, can alleviate this. If you can - raise the Rh - in the jar incubator (if you use one), have patience & see what they do. GROWTH STOPS

*No set time (12 to 36 hours works - past that - they sprout @ room temps). Object is to HYDRATE seed/grain to the MAX, without sprouting. Seed/grain expands about 20% with soak. Hot water simmer (not boil or cook) will expand seed/grain about another 5%. To hot/long a simmer will sometimes burst seed/grain. Burst seed/grain cause a lot of starch release that can cause sludge in jars (a bad thing). Ya just have to watch it & learn what works for you. WBS

*When wbs burst's, it emits starch, which makes sludge inside a jar, or bag. The sludge is prone to bacterial contamination, is sticky, making jars hard to shake. And, as the poster above rightly states, it is a sign of excess moisture content, which can cause problems in colonization. Sort of a WBS simmer rule of thumb is, you have the moisture content right, if less than 1% burst. I don't simmer WBS at all. Just a long soak - period. BUSTED WBS

*If the moisture content of your wbs/grain jars is adequate to start? It is best to incubate them in an environment of around 80% rh. The reason for doing so is to have near equal rh inside & outside the jars. That way, jar content tends to retain moisture, rather than equalize to the outside rh. Which in most rooms, is far to low. Consequently, jars tend to dry out, or stall for lack of moisture. GRAIN JARS INCUBATING

*Just stick a few pounds of aged horse/cow manure in a nylon stocking, double it a few times & add to soak water. You can also just throw some in a bucket of warm water, stir - soak a day, stir again, strain (however) & use that. No exacting amount of poo or water formula. Just so long as the water gets to be a DARK coffee color, does the trick. Doing so adds "N"...& trace elements - which is a GOOD THING. DUNG TEA

*There are about 787 reasons. The primary one is usually whatever you G2G'ed it into - is/was to DRY. Next might be your incubation temps are way off. GROWTH SAfter that, it might be the ambient outside rh in whatever you incubate in, is so LOW, the bag is simply drying out - though the filter patch on the bag. STOPS

*I let the PC cool down to zero pressure, then wait around 15 minutes more & remove jars while still HOT. Then, using oven mitts - shake them, to insure the WBS will redistribute in the jar. Then - allow them to cool to room temperature in a clean place. OUT OF THE PC

*Winter rye... is BERRY BERRY GOOD. $9.50 per 50 lb bag @ local feed store. However.........IMHO, Feed store grains seen to carry a bit higher endospores load :confused:. I PC full 2 hours to compensate & it does the trick. RYE BERRIES

*You should be safe at 36 hours. If temp is real high, you may see a little germination. If LOW, not so, but you are on the cusp of it happening. If you are in cold weather county, set it outside, to stall that aspect. TEMPERATURE SOAK

*You can soak WBS as long as you want, so long as it doesn’t ferment, sprout, or rot. A day or 2, or even 3 is fine. There is no need to simmer. WBS

*5% Sun Flower seeds provide oils (lipids). A good thing & delayed release nutes WBS

*Combo of WBS & rye (50/50) is far better than WBS alone - as substrate. MIX

*I get 50 lb bags of winter rye at the feed store for $11. WINTER RYE





CONTAMINANTS

*The longer you wait, the more you increase the chance of a Contam sprouting out - in them. But a day or 3 wait - after they cooled to room temps is usually safe. Any longer than that (IMHO) - you greatly increase the odds of something going wrong. As an example, after you cook yourself a primo prime rib dinner, you don’t wait a week before eating it - do you? Our environment is full of billions of contaminants, all looking for a place to breed. Even in the most aseptic conditions, even with every thing prepared under a flow hood, Comtams happen. CONTAMINANTS WAITING

*Sometimes, a bit of myc (looks bright white) will start to grow on the surface & spread. Sounds like that's what you have. Anything blue, green, funky cinnamon gray, slimy like vegetable oil, curdled milk or tiny black dots, it has a bad case of the clap. CONTAMINATES LC

*Substrate temperatures above the 85F range and anaerobic conditions often result in readily available carbohydrates and a lower pH in a substrate, which generally favors the growth of Trichoderma (green mold). CONTAMINANT SUBSTRATE/CASING

*Lesson to learn: Fill tote with hot water bleach/Pine Sol combo. Hold contaminated jars under water in tote. Twist lid slightly open - allowing bleachy water to run into jar & allow to sink. Soak overnight. Then empty & clean. CONTAMINANT

*Black rot on caps is a bacterial infection. Sounds like - you are direct misting the fruits, they get soaking wet & bacterial blotch sets in, then rot. High Rh is one thing, soaking wet - is another. WET CAPS CONTAMINATION

*100,000 possible contams per square foot of normal household air. CONTAMINANTS



NOOBIES SPEACH


*1. Buy largest PC you can afford.
(All American Brand is optimal)

2. Buy spore syringes from a Shroomery vendor.

3. Buy a couple cases of quart Mason jars.

4. Learn wbs/grain spawn making in jars.
(Includes soaking, jar lid gas exchange provisions & injecting)

5. Figure out wbs/grain jar incubation method.

6. While spawn jars are colonizing. Build fruiting chamber.
(Learn about impeller cool mists & FAE provisions)

7. While spawn jars are incubating. Find free horse manure source.

8. Learn h/poo substrate preparation method.

9. Spawn h/poo substrate trays.

10. While trays are incubating, Learn Casing preparation methods.

11. Once trays are colonized, add casing cover & incubate more.

12. Fruit trays.

13. Learn printing methods.

14. Buy a Nesco brand dehydrator.

15. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

16. Improve everything & go again, only better.
(Glove box & flow hood)

17. Spread the MAGIC. FIRST PROJECT NOOBS



*After a little PONDERING (& a bong hit). I have a suggestion for ADMIN. Ya ya.... I know its been bounced all around before. But, as this wonderful place grows, it must evolve, or chaos will. Beginner, Intermediate & Advanced level cultivation forums. Beginners (new sign on's) get posting privilege - in Beginner level cultivation & other forums. Everyone can view the Intermediate & Advanced forum. However, to gain posting privilege to intermediate level, new sign on's must take a TEST. A simple format test - in true & false, mixed in with multiple-choice questions concerning very basic mush/cult fundamentals & terminology. There are surely a few who would volunteer to but the actual test together (me for one)& computer-programming wizards that could format it into some simple check the box type Q & A thing. No doubt, the same programming wizards could put together a simple program that would automatically grade the test & allow automated entry if they pass and/or deny entry - if they fail. Henceforth, first time users sign in & get posting privilege in the Beginner forum. Anyone wanting to take the test could, any time. If they pass, they get posting privilege in Intermediate cultivation. Other than putting it together & implementing it. It would not take up much bandwidth, nor moderator time, if any -- once implemented. The Advanced cultivation forum pretty much takes care of itself, as-is. So leave it .......... as-is. Doing so - might well lower the BS, stupidity & chaos level - in the general cultivation forum. At the very least - whoever gained entry to the intermediate level would have to know a few basics. Which would (hopefully) force them to utilize the FAQ, in order to pass the test. A lot of time & effort went into the FAQ. Sadly, many - many - first time users - often ignore it. Preferring to ask (simple) questions in the general cultivation forum, which the FAQ already answers, if they would only refer to it. Many - many don't. They would rather waste bandwidth, asking questions - the FAQ already answers. What a waste of effort, time, space & bandwidth. Just a thought.  NOOB SPEACH

*It will depend on you, what you have learned, how you apply it, your budget, means & space available. I started with bulk. Before I ever saw a spore syringe, I bought an AA PC, 4 cases of wide mouth quart mason jars, built a glove box & jar incubator & figured out wbs spawn was the way I would start. Ordered 2 each syringes of 4 strains from TLG. 1 each as a back up, in case I f/U the first batch. Soaked, rinsed, drained wbs, used tyvek as a lid filter (lids w/2 holes), one for gas exchange, one for innoc & PC'ed 20 jars 90 minutes @ 15 psi. Inoculated 5 jars each, 2 ml each of 4 differing strains. First lesson learned, was don't fill wbs jars more than 3/4 full, as it makes them tough to shake. During jar colonization, found h/poo supply to use as bulk sub, picked a casing mixture tek (50/50+). Jars all colonized with no losses. Pasteurized h/poo, spawned @ 25% rate in trays. Held back 1 strain each colonized WBS jar & did G2G to make more spawn. Lesson learned, good pasteurization is important, as is moisture content @ spawning. Did G2G in a sanitized bathroom with under 8% contamination rate. Lost about 30% of cased subs to green & cobweb. Lesson learned, ph of casing mix is critical, as is FRESH AIR EXCHANGE. First harvest was several pounds wet. Lesson learned, make practice prints - just to learn how it goes & throw those prints away, as 80% will be dirty - until you get the hang of sterile print making. Also learned, screw a fan & desiccants, get & use a dehydrator (American Harvest Snack Master). Years later, still learning, but have cut overall contamination rate to fewer than 5%. ODDS OF FIRST SUCCESSFUL GROW NOOB

*Lol????? You just learn to go with the flow. To get a decent crop is not easy. Mistakes will be made. Learn from them. Then go again (& again +++++++++++++++++). The trick is to LEARN? PATIENCE, STERILITY & what works for you. Very few succeed on their very first try, sometimes not even until their 4th or 5th try. Just keep trying, never stop learning & over time - you will get crops. Once you have crops, learn printing & storage. Then syringe making & plate work with agar & liquid culture. Then learn composting. From there - you can go anywhere. You will learn, the best initial investment you can make is an ALL AMERICAN PRESSURE COOKER, the bigger the better. NOOBIES SPEACH

*A GLAD microwave-baking tray with lid would be a good tray. (2 @ $5 any large grocery store). Rig the lid with a 1/2-inch hole & cover with a double layer of Micropore tape. Or, a STERILE round band-aid. Swab out the tray & lid with alc or Lysol. Dump in the pasteurized h/poo. Use a sanitized spoon to dig into & break up the colonized WBS. Sprinkle the WBS into the h/poo & mix it in. Save a little WBS back & apply it on top the mixture, as a heavier top coating. Snap on the lid & incubate. FIRST GROW

*With one syringe - you can make 10,000 ml of liquid culture (LC's). Get / find / buy / borrow a big pressure cooker; find lots of jars & tyvek. Learn to do LC's. Get & use WBS (millet-milo-sourgun) as spawn. Find a source of weathered h/poo (free) for substrate. Use 12 quart nested tray (with aluminum foil between the two) to hold substrates. Learn how to make & use a casing mix. SPEACH

If you are going to give it a SERIOUS go. All American PC is BEST PC EVER. Bigger the better. Build (at least) a GLOVE BOX. Better yet a HEPA FILTERED FLOW HOOD. FIND HORSE MANURE. Learn WBS & G2G. Learn PH of casing is important. NOOB

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 04:58 PM)

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600] * 1
    #8467256 - 05/31/08 12:43 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

AGARS NOTES




SPORES/STORING

*Storage Method:
Obtain dram vials from your laboratory supplier and fill them about half full (about 3mL) with distilled water, loosely cap the vials and sterilize them in a pressure cooker for 30 minutes @250 F. Half dram vials or test tubes with screw caps would also work well.
About six milliliters of sterile distilled water is pipetted aseptically into a freshly growing culture. The fragments of hyphae are dislodged by lightly scraping the aerial growth with the same pipette, and the resulting suspension is withdrawn and transferred to a sterile glass vial. Put plenty of inoculum into each vial to insure success. Screw the lid on tight and wrap Parafilm around the top of the vial to make sure it is airtight. When you come back in a few years, you would not want to find that the water had evaporated
Store the vials at room temperature away from direct sunlight. A bookshelf or wall cabinet is an excellent place. If conditions deteriorate, and the room should become unbearably hot, the vials can be refrigerated, but that is not normally necessary.
In the distilled water environment, the mushroom culture enters a dormant state, and it is held in stasis

The Rude Awakening:
Under aseptic conditions, simply dip a sterile loop into the vial, and streak the mycelia-rich water onto an agar plate. It will start to reanimate on being in a nutrient source and oxygen.
The first four methods keep cultures alive with three items: food, water, and oxygen. If they lack any of these, It's goodbye.
Instead of trying to keep them alive, there is a better way: In sterile distilled water, with no food, oxygen, or minerals. This method was in use almost 60 years ago, but was apparently lost due to lack of communication.
References
(1) M.D.Graham, "A Simple, Practical Method for Long Term Storage of Yeast", Brewing Techniques 5, March/April (1997), pp 58-62
(2) S.Castellani,"Viability of Some Pathogenic Fungi in Distilled Water", Journal of Tropical Medicine and Hygiene 42, pp 225-226 (1939)
(3) M.R.McGinnis,A.A.Padhye,and L. Ajello,"Storage of Stock Cultures of Filamentous Fungi, Yeasts, and Some Aerobic Actinomycetes in Sterile Distilled Water", Applied Microbiology 28, pp 218-222 (1974)
(4) F.C.Odds, "Long Term Laboratory Preservation of Pathogenic Yeast in Water”, Journal of Medical and Veterinary Mycology 29, pp 413-415(1991) SPORES STORAGING


*Rubbing alc works fine. I assume the needles you bought are in STERILE wraps. So, they are sterile, to begin with. I would NOT dip needles in a solution. Simply because, if any residual remains inside a needle. It could/would potentially harm or kill some spores. I don't flame needles, especially with a cigarette lighter. As doing so can leave soot on them. If you pour a little rubbing alc on a gauze pad (or paper towel), then after unsheathing a needle & attaching to a syringe, keep the needle wrapped in the pad. That minimizes all needle exposure to open air. I hope you have cobbled together some sort of glove box, to make your first syringes, from prints. That greatly increases you chance of getting clean syringes. SYRINGES

*Spore prints on GLASS slides are the BOMB. They go under a scope EASY. You can remove spores with your Excato knife scalpel, with ease. They are not spendy to mail, either. Simple small bubble wrap envelope does the trick. LOL, I sort of pissed off the local hardware store. They had a sign that said, purchase a stock size piece of single or double strength glass from us, and we will cut it to any size - you want...FOR FREE. LOL, I picked out a 2X4 sheet of single strength & had the clerk cut it ALL into 4 inch squares. He was sort of miffed about it. So, as he was cutting it all, I went next door to a liquor store, bought a 5th of whiskey & gave it to him, for a job WELL DONE.  SPORE PRINTS ON GLASS

*Seal-a-meal has worked for my foaf for years. Tuck away in cool dry place for as much as 3 years & still viable. Also Castellani first used sterile water to preserve cultures in 1939 (2). Since then, many scientists have used this method; McGinnis et al. in 1974 (3) and Odds in 1991 (4) reported that they were able to maintain viable cultures for more than three years, without degradation. This technique satisfies many different interests: Castellani's pathogenic fungi, Odds interest was in pathogenic yeast, and McGinnis' interest was in a wide range of fungi, yeast, and bacteria. The distilled water preserved all of them.  SPORES VIABLE SHELF LIFE

*Be sure PH of casing layer is correct. Otherwise, whole pan will go to shit. PH Freezing - one time - isn’t a good thing, but in any decent spore syringe, there should be enough spores that remain viable, you should not have any problem with them. Hell, those that remain viable are the tough ones & those grow well. LOL...one hot summer a B+ syringe order arrived in my metal mailbox & it was around 110F inside it. Some spores survived & something must have happened to them - odd...because they flushed weird & were almost albino. Like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get. SPORES MAILING LIFE

*Make prints on autoclave bag material. Once layed & dry, lay another same size piece over top & use impulse sealer to seal all four sides. To extract, use syringe needle to puncture one side of print bag on corner, inject 10 / 20 ml of sterile water, rub bag with fingers - spores go into solution. Asperate with syringe. PRINT TO SYRINGE

*You can remove a piece of healthy myc off an agar plate; store it in sterile oxygen free water in a test tube for years. You can store a well-prepared culture on agar, in a fridge for months. You can store a fully colonized grain / wbs jar in the fridge for longer than a month. STORING

*Astrolabe = purified water, glycerin, propylene glycol, polyquarternium 15, methyilparaben & proplparaben.  SPORE ADDATIVE SPORES CLUMP PROBLEM.

*Actual recipe is 1 drop per 100ml JET DRY IN SPORE SYRINGE





LIGHTING

*Myc takes it cue from LIGHT. Even a small Xmass tree light bulb works. Just about any light works. No need to go to great lengths, so long as you just give them some LIGHT. Simple, easy, available & cost effective LIGHT is all you need. Simply stay away from lights that produce a lot of heat. LIGHTING

*UV-C lights must be enclosed in a metal housing, otherwise they can have very HARMFULL effects. Best use is in a sheet metal air duct, with a good air filter & fan pushing - or pulling air the ductwork. UV LIGHT

*To induce pinning 12/12, once you have even pinning, reduce to 10light/14dark. It appears to me, they grow more during the DARK cycle. LIGHT CYCLE

*Stick as close to NATURE, as possible. 24 H light is not. Lack of light leads to tall spindly shrooms & small caps. LIGHTING

*12/12 primordia & pin formation & 16 off, 8 on during fruiting. LIGHTING



LIQUID CULTURE

*To start a liquid culture (LC) from spores, you just want to MAKE SURE you inject a few, or more spores into the liquid in each container. It is not a matter of how many cc/ml of fluid you inject, it is a matter of just being sure some spores get into the solution.
Depending on the type jar you use, it's size & if you rig it with a filter, to it can breath a bit, plus something like a few cracked in half marbles to help agitate & CUT UP THE RESULTING MYC MASS into tiny bits.
You will find the mycelia mass is stringy. So much so, it can sometimes plug a syringe needle when you try to extract it. So before you extract any, you want to agitate the jar content - VERY WELL.
If not & you do get a syringe full. It is sort of like a syringe full of FINE SHORT THREADS. If you inject a syringe like that into a verm/brf type jar, ot a grain / wbs jar. You will generally find most of the myc you inject, will stay on top, or near the top of the jar content. Simply because short thread/like myc will not travel in solution, like spores WILL.
SO... (IMHO) you want to inject MORE MYC SOLUTION, than you would spore solution. How much more is on you to decide. For quarts of rye/wbs my foaf injects min. 2.5 cc/ml per jar. Then, shakes it gently a few times (right then) to insure myc is spread thought the jar. Instead of just near the top of the jar content.
This will result in colonization a bit more difficult to SEE on the jar sides, but will result in FASTER over/all colonization with liquid culture injection.
Having a stir plate / stir bar setup really helps out. Because you get THICK MYC & can stir it at very high RPM, which breaks the myc into tiny threads, instead of long ones. LIQUID CULTURE

*I have found that pure dextrose (USP grade) alone will both germinate & nurture myc along in solution. However, the culture doesn’t thrive & after a short while, it will stall out.
A mix of various ingredients will make it THRIVE & will form thick islands on the surface & begin to climb the interior wall of the container. I don’t doubt, it would fruit out invitro, off the surface - given some support.
For the hell of it, next batch, in a wide mouth gallon glass container, I am going to float an inch thick round polyester pad (the interior diameter of the jar with some PP foam embedded as floatation) as a support platform for the myc & see if I can actually get it to fruit off the platform. LIQUID CULTURE

*Dry malt extract is a powder prepared from wheat & barley. The variables that go into producing malt extract range from the variety of wheat / barley used, kilning time and temperature, and how the malted grain is mashed. Basically dry malt is sweet wart reduced to powder formed by removing most of the water by low vacuum evaporation.
Dextrose = alpa-d-glucose is Corn sugar: d-(+)-glucose Molecular formula: C6H12O6  LC

*Depends on the type & size of the container, type of nutrient solution used, what it is inoculated with, amount of inoculate, if the container has a gas exchange filter, incubation temperature & if you use a stir plate & bar?
Also, by "start" I assume you mean, "Inoculated".
As for "finish", I assume you mean - contains healthy thick mycelia mass.
6 or 7 days under "optimal" conditions.
2 or 3 weeks under less than optimal conditions. LIQUID CULTURE

*Try light dry malt & dextrose (think home brew beer supply store for both).
Level teaspoon of each into quart distilled water.
Simmer on stove to meld solution (don't boil).
Put however much you want in jar, w/filter lid cap.
PC 16 - 18 minutes @ 15 lbs
Allow cooling to room temp in PC. LC

*Try light dry malt & dextrose (think home brew beer supply store for both). Level teaspoon of each into quart distilled water. Simmer on stove to meld solution (don't boil). Put however much you want in jar, w/filter lid cap. PC 16 - 18 minutes @ 15 lbs Allow to cool to room temp in PC. LC

*Coffee filters (even stacked on 10 deep) will not cut the mustard. :thumbdown: They are simply too porous & flimsy. Not to mention, will wick moisture. Coffee filters ALONE are not GOOD. They are about 15 micron, plus wick in contams, if ever wet.  COFFEE FILTER AS FILTER

*I use 50/50 light dry malt & dry dextrose to make a 3% solution. PC it, then filter it through coffee filters to remove any solids, crud or silt that forms & PC the filtered stuff again. Best combo I have ever found. Hope you do well, I have. LC

*My preference is a 50/50 combo of light dry malt & dry dextrose. Just make a 3% solution, PC it 20 minutes @ 15 psi, decant - filter - rebottle & PC again. No crud or carmelization - at all - that way. LIQUID CULTURE

*You can store G-1 LC in 5, 50 or 100 vials of sterile water (years & years). Any time you want G-1 pull a tube out of the Fridge & go for it. Either start a new LC with it, or go to grains, then G2G. LC

*Light dry malt & dry dextrose. 2 heaping teaspoons each to quart water, boil, strain through coffee filter (removes anything that caramelizes), jar up, PC 20 / 25 minutes @ 15 lbs. LC

*Heat - sugar = carmelization. Which can turn into itsybitsy chunks of solidified crap = sediment. LC CARMILIZATION

*Yeast will make it MILKY/CLOUDY. LIQUID CULTURE






DISINFECTANT

*Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide as Disinfectants
By Judy Stouffer, B.S., M.S., SFO
You can make your kitchen a cleaner, safer place and fight bacteria, without exposing yourself and your family to toxic chemicals that also damage the environment. You can use a simple safe disinfecting spray that is more effective than any of the commercial cleaners in killing bacteria. As a bonus, it is inexpensive!
Susan Sumner, a food scientist at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, worked out the recipe for just such a sanitizing combo. All you need is three percent hydrogen peroxide, the same strength available at the drug store for gargling or disinfecting wounds, and plain white or apple cider vinegar, and a pair of brand new clean sprayers, like the kind you use to dampen laundry before ironing.
If you're cleaning vegetables or fruit, just sprits them well first with both the vinegar and the hydrogen peroxide, and then rinse them off under running water.
It doesn't matter which you use first - you can spray with the vinegar then the hydrogen peroxide, or with the hydrogen peroxide followed by the vinegar. You won't get any lingering taste of vinegar or hydrogen peroxide, and neither is toxic to you if a small amount remains on the produce.
As a bonus: The paired sprays work exceptionally well in sanitizing counters and other food preparation surfaces -- including wood cutting boards.
In tests run at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, pairing the two mists killed virtually all Salmonella, Shigella, or E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated food and surfaces when used in this fashion, making this spray combination more effective at killing these potentially lethal bacteria than chlorine bleach or any commercially available kitchen cleaner.
The best results came from using one mist right after the other - it is 10 times more effective than using either spray by itself and more effective than mixing the vinegar and hydrogen peroxide in one sprayer.
Science News August 8, 1998; Vol. 154, Issue. 6; pg. 83-85 DISINFECTANT SCIENCE

*Best cheapest sanitizing agent I have found is one mist bottle full of white vinegar, another mist bottle full of H202.
Spray one on, wait a minute, spray other on, wait a minute, wipe down with clean paper towels (doesn’t matter which is sprayed on - first).
That combo will KILL...E-Coli, Salmonella, Aids & host of almost all other nasty stuff, including mold spores.
Just prior to using any tray, or container -- alc swab with 70% alc & allow to evap. 70% alc is MORE EFFECTIVE, as evap time is longer than higher % alc. SANITIZING STERILIZER

*Sanitize means to reduce the number of contaminants to a safe or relatively safe level as may be judged by public health requirements.
Disinfect means elimination of all recognized pathogenic microorganism but not necessarily all microbial forms.
Sterilize means the destruction of all microbial life by use of chemical or physical procedures.  DISINFECTANTS

*White vinegar in one spray bottle. 3% peroxide in another spray bottle. Spray one on, give it a moment, spray the other on, give it a few moments.... then wipe down with clean cloth. Cheap & effective to disinfect anything. DISINFECTANT CHEAP

*ALSO Buying in bulk bottles, then filling a spray mist bottle, is a LOT cheaper than buying Lysol in spray cans. Agar is FRUGAL. SANITIZING STERILIZER






CASING

*If it says "PEAT" you are okay.
Sphagnum Moss vs. Sphagnum Peat Moss
Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture
August 1996
Don't confuse sphagnum moss with sphagnum peat moss. Sphagnum moss and sphagnum peat moss are not the same product. Sphagnum moss is used in the floral industry to line wire baskets and make wreaths. It is the LIVING moss that grows on top of a sphagnum bog. Sphagnum peat moss is used as a soil conditioner by gardeners. It is the dead material that accumulates in the lower levels of a sphagnum bog. Harvesters of the horticultural peat moss remove the top few inches of the live sphagnum moss before harvesting the peat from the lower levels of the bog.
Remember, sphagnum moss is NOT the same as the safe, sphagnum peat moss you use as a soil amendment!
(References: "Don't Confuse Sphagnum Moss with Peat Moss," by Gerry Hood, President, Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association; "Cutaneous Sporotrichosis in Forestry Workers," by K.E. Powell, A. Taylor, B.J. Phillips, D.L. Blakey, G.D. Campbell, L. Kaufman, and W. Kaplan. JAMA 240(3):10, 12-13; and "Multistate Outbreak of Sporotrichosis in Seedling Handlers," by T. England, M.J. Kasten, R. Martin, T. Cote, D.L. Morse, R. David, and J.P. Davis. Journal of the Amer. Medical Assoc. 260(19):2806, 2811.)
Wading Through The Peat Bog
Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture
Posted April 1997
Garden centers overflow with many products labeled "peats". The key to choosing the correct one lies in identifying the product and knowing how each is useful in the garden. The U.S.Bureau of Mines classifies peats into three major types: moss peat, reed sedge, and peat humus.
Moss peat, usually referred to as "peat moss," is the least decomposed of the three types. It consists of visible fibers of sphagnum, hypnum, and other mosses. Moss peat is lightweight, acidic (pH 3 to 7) and varies in color from yellowish to dark-brown. Its high moisture-holding capacity (approximately 15 times its dry weight) makes it a good soil amendment, or component of potting soil.
Sphagnum and hypnum moss peats differ slightly in their physical characteristics. Hypnum peat decomposes more rapidly, has a higher pH (5 to 7), and re-wets more easily than sphagnum peat. Sphagnum peat develops surface waxes upon drying that make them difficult to re-wet. Sphagnum peat is regarded as superior over hypnum peat for soil amending and as a growing media. The low pH of sphagnum peats (from 3 to 4.5) makes them better suited for use with acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries.
Among the sphagnum peats, dark peats (those which are dark brown) are less elastic than lighter colored sphagnums. They will not return to their original volume after compression during packaging. Dark peats also lack the durability of lighter colored sphagnum peats; consequently, they are not as well suited to long-term culture.
Reed sedge peats consist of the remains of reeds, sedges, grasses, and other marsh plants. This type of peat varies considerably in composition and in color (reddish-brown to almost black). Its pH ranges from 4 to 7.5, and its water-holding capacity is less than moss peats (about 10 times the dry weight). Reed sedge peat is finer textured than peat moss. It is not as good a growing medium, but it is useful as a soil conditioner in the garden and in potting soil mixes.
Peat humus originates from hypnum moss, reed sedge peat, or woody peat. It is in such an advanced state of decomposition that the original plant remains cannot be identified. Peat humus is dark-brown to black with a low moisture-holding capacity. Unlike the other peats, it contains a small amount of nitrogen (2 to 3.5 percent). Peat humus, also known as black peat or Michigan peat, is quite heavy compared to the other peats. Its pH varies greatly (from 4 to 8), and it is characteristically sticky when wet.
Two types of black peat are found in the trade. The first, amorphous peat humus is highly acidic and virtually structure less. Any water it holds is mostly unavailable to plants. When it dries, amorphous peat humus becomes lumpy. It turns to dust when broken apart.
The second type of black peat, granular peat humus, contains humates, which form aggregate particles. The aggregates give granular peat humus a high air capacity and make it permeable to water. This humus is used for improving very sandy or gravelly soil. Overall, the lack of water-holding and soil-loosening capacities of peat humus makes it unsuitable for most horticultural purposes.
Woody peat, although not individually cited in the U.S.B.M. classification, can be purchased separately or as a component of peat humus. Woody peat results from the breakdown of trees, shrubs, and undergrowth from the forest floor. These peats vary greatly in texture, but they are usually quite porous. Woody peats are dark colored and acidic (pH 3.6 to 5.5). They decompose rapidly to become peat humus.
Mixtures of some of the above peat types will be encountered. Under the Federal Trade Commission regulations, a content of only 75 percent peat is sufficient to warrant the use of the term "peat". The best peat mosses contain 95 to 99 percent organic matter. A first-rate reed sedge peat will be 85 to 95 percent pure.
The most abundant constituent plant is usually listed first on the package, but your best guarantee for getting a good product is to buy brand names from a reputable dealer. For price comparison, use dry weight rather than volume since your primary interest is the actual weight of organic matter for your money.
(Adapted from "Wading Through the Peat Bog," by Virginia Nathan, Extension Technician, Consumer Horticulture, Virginia Tech, in The Virginia Gardener Newsletter, Volume 4, and Number 1.). SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS VS PEAT MOSS

Casing material pH & why it is important. "PH", is a measure to describe the acidity of a medium. PH 7 is neutral; higher means alkaline, lower acidic.
Peat is a major constituent of preferred casing mixes. The pH of peat is variable; dependent on the source it came from. Meaning, the pH of peat differs from various sources.
The optimal pH range of a casing mixture is 6.5 to 8. Peat is acidic. Consequently, to achieve an optimal pH range of a casing mix, the pH of the casing mixture must be adjusted accordingly (within the range of 6.5 to 8).
It is generally easier to make casing materials more alkaline (i.e. increasing the pH) than it is to make them more acid (i.e. reducing the pH).
A movement of 0.5 is easy but, because the pH scale is logarithmic, a movement on the order of, 2.0 points becomes more difficult because there is a factor of 10x between each full point, so pH 5.0 is actually 100 times more acid than pH 7.0.
There are several common types of lime available for use, though care should be exercised with all of the products. Lime is caustic and a skin and eye irritant and can be dangerous if misused. If you choose to use such products, carefully read and follow all manufacturer directions exactly. The major types of lime products include:
Hydrated lime: the "strongest" form of lime generally available, and you must follow all manufacturer precautions, since your skin and eyes can be easily irritated or burned if the product is misused.
Ground Limestone: a naturally occurring type of limestone that has been ground to a fine powder. How quickly it will act to modify pH and how long it will persist depends on how finely it was ground.
Generally, ground limestone is weaker than hydrated lime, needing about 30% more to raise the pH by the same amount. It has the advantage, however, of usually being significantly cheaper than the hydrated lime, and usually woks more slowly and lasts much longer.
Mixed Lime: usually sold under a brand name. Most brands contain a variety of particle sizes to provide some immediate benefits, as well as a longer persistence. (This is often referred to as "time released" lime.)
If you wish to achieve optimal results, when adjusting pH? It is highly advisable to use litmus strips (with color chart), or acquire a pH test probe (available at most garden supply stores, under $20) to accurately test, and adjust the pH of your casing mix, prior to application. Oyster shells are very slow acting.
Whatever you use for casing material, you test its PH (moist) - first, then adjust - accordingly - trying to get it - optimal. There is no rule of thumb, as all sorts of casing material - come from differing places - all over the world & you will find - none have the exact same PH. CASING AND WHY

*CASING MIX = 50% Coir 40% Vermiculite & 10%
AMORPHOUS DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (ADE).
D. E., Diatomite, or diatomaceous earth, is a sedimentary rock consisting of the exoskeletons of algae-like plants (Diatoms) ranging in size typically from 10 to 200 microns. The skeletal structure can contain up to 80% to 90% voids.
Diatomite’s porous structure, low density, and high surface area result in industrial applications as a filtration media for various beverages, inorganic and organic chemicals, and as an absorbent.
Ingestion of amorphous diatomaceous earth is not toxic to mammals. Rats fed a daily diet containing 5% freshwater diatomaceous earth show no abnormalities after 90 days (Bertke 1964).
Dairy farms sometimes feed their animals food containing 1 to 2% diatomaceous earth to control worms and other internal parasites (Allen 1972). Impoverished humans add "fossil flour" to their baked goods in order to stretch their flour supply (Cummins 1975).
It is so safe for use on food that the FDA has exempted diatomaceous earth from requirements of fixed residue levels when added to stored grain (Fed. Reg. 1961). The U.S. EPA also allows its use in food storage and processing areas (Fed. Reg. 1981).
This product is untreated, unheated agricultural food grade freshwater D.E (not the D.E. used in swimming pool water filtration). It contains 12 trace minerals including 19% calcium and 33% silica.
Diatomite will absorb up to 150% of its own weight in fluids and slowly release them.
DE is an EPA approved animal feed additive for worm and parasite control at 1:100 ratio. It is also FDA approved as a stored grain additive at 4-oz/100 lb.
Substrate = 1. COMPOST 2. QUASI/COMPOST 3.HORSE MANURE (aged - leached). :thumbup: CASING MIX

*Look at VOLUME.... not weight in spawn/substrate ratio's.
Higher spawn ratio's ARE BETTER, up to a point (30% IMHO).
The object of spawn (besides nutrients) is to introduce myc into an uncolonized substrate, which it then - colonizes
The more spawn, the more points colonization begins from, all moving towards one another. The more spawn introduced, the closer the contact points - become. Which results in FASTER COLONIZATION, as the myc doesn’t have to travel far - to connect with its counterparts.
As H/C noted, top dressing a few percent more spawn, allows the top to colonize faster, creating a protective layer over uncolonized substrate (a good thing).
As myc colonizes spawn grains, it knits the grain together, the myc being the connective tissue.
The end result is solid mass of grains in a jar, you have to dig into & break apart... in order to separate the individual grains. Doing so - injures all the myc connective tissue.
So, the spawn is not at 100% efficiency, until it heals itself (takes a day or 2), and then begins to grow, move into & colonizes its new surroundings.
If you use spawn BAGS? Two (2) days (36 to 48 hours) before you intend to spawn it into a bulk substrate. Gently massage the bags, to break the mass into individual grain. They will begin to heal, but are not able to knit the bag of grain back into a solid mass in a 48 hours.
Then - spawm - as quickly & gently as possible (otherwise you re-injure it & defeat the purpose). This method usually decreases colonization times by a day or 3.  SPAWNING

*Coir is sort of a high fiber hemicellulose, with high moisture retention capacity, with very minor nutrients in it. But not enough (usually) to grow contams. Myc will grow through it & the casing layer, leading to better - thicker - more even pin sets, (usually). Too much coir in a casing layer can/will cause overlay. COIR CASING

*Casing cover is imparted like an organic roof. If it has holes in it, the holes exposes & allow unwanted things to come in contact with what’s under the roof. If the roof on your home leaked, would you patch it? I believe you would. It goes for patching casing covers. Just a wise thing to do, to keep the nastiness out. CASING

*Wait until the substrate is all colonized, then add a casing mixture cover, and incubate until rhizo crops out in an even spread, then expose to light, fresh air exchange& 85% rh range. CASING LAYER

*Sometimes with coir in a casing material - you will get some very light gray myc on the surface. Same sort of thing freaked me out, but rhizo shot up & it fruited well. COIR CASING

*Has nothing to do with the manure. Has to do with casing cover, timing & conditions (light, rH & temp). UNEVEN CASING


SUBSTRATE

*It is best if fresh h/poo can be allowed to weather for at least a week, or two, which allows ammonia (toxic to mycelia) to dissipate.
H/poo is good is because of its large microbe / bacterial population (as much as 5% of its mass). Plus it’s high nitrogen, cellulose / hemi-cellulose - humus complex content.
An OPTIMAL substrate has to provide the mushroom mycelium with a smorgasbord of food. Not only is lignin-humus complex and cellulose important, but also protein, fat, and oils are also important.
A good analogy is protein serves as the mushrooms
"Steak", carbohydrates its "potatoes," and lipids (fats and oils) its "butter.
Like people, mushrooms should have a balance of all these nutrients.
The main source of "steak and butter" for the mushroom is from microbes. The dead cells of thermophilic fungi, bacteria, and action mycetes "firefang" are the packages that deliver protein and fat to the mushroom.
The addition of delayed-release supplements further enhances the protein and lipid content of the substrate. Many of these supplements consist of a high-protein oil material, such as soybean meal, cornmeal, or feather meal that has been treated to delay the availability of the nutrient for the mushroom.
If an untreated supplement is added to the substrate at this time, it often becomes a "candy bar" to other microbes, or competitor molds.
These molds grow more rapidly than the mushroom mycelium and can quickly colonize the substrate, competing with the mycelia for nutrients. The oils or lipids in these supplements are used by the mycelia to stimulate the fruiting mechanism and increase yield by having more mushrooms initiate and develop.
Yields can be increased from 0.25 to 1.5-lbs/sq. ft. of growing space. In addition, mushroom size will also be improved with higher spawning-moisture content. However, in substrate that is not selectively prepared, these nutrients become more available to competitor molds. HORSE MANURE


*TRY ORGANIC GARDEN SUPPLY STORES IN YOUR LOCAL AREA.
The phone book is a good place to start.
D. E., Diatomite, or diatomaceous earth, is a sedimentary rock consisting of the exoskeletons of algae-like plants (Diatoms) ranging in size typically from 10 to 200 microns. The skeletal structure can contain up to 80% to 90% voids. Diatomite’s porous structure, low density, and high surface area result in industrial applications as a filtration media for various beverages, inorganic and organic chemicals, and as an absorbent.
Ingestion of amorphous diatomaceous earth is not toxic to mammals. Rats fed a daily diet containing 5% freshwater diatomaceous earth show no abnormalities after 90 days (Bertke 1964). Dairy farms sometimes feed their animals food containing 1 to 2% diatomaceous earth to control worms and other internal parasites (Allen 1972). Impoverished humans add "fossil flour" to their baked goods in order to stretch their flour supply (Cummins 1975).
It is so safe for use on food that the FDA has exempted diatomaceous earth from requirements of fixed residue levels when added to stored grain (Fed. Reg. 1961). The U.S. EPA also allows its use in food storage and processing areas (Fed. Reg. 1981).
This product is untreated, unheated agricultural food grade freshwater D.E (not the D.E. used in swimming pool water filtration). It contains 12 trace minerals including 19% calcium and 33% silica.
" Diatomite" will absorb up to 150% of its own weight in fluids and slowly release those fluids.
E. Is an EPA approved animal feed additive for worm and parasite control at 1:100 ratio. It is approved as a stored grain additive at 4-oz/100 lb. DIATOMACEOUS EARTH


*N content varies from which horse ass it came from dependent on many variables (age/condition/feed, climate, etc).
The ideal N content for this application is 2.7%.
Fresh horse manure will have an N content & ammonia higher than desired.
Fresh horse manure contains a high percentage of bacteria / microbial content. So high, unless perfectly pasteurized the resulting substrate may become contaminated with bacterial type rot.
If composted to the degree it has lost its fiber like appearance & consistency, it becomes soil like (soil = mud when hydrated to field capacity).
If dried & weathered sufficiently, a large percentage of the bacteria & microbes it contains dies. Those dead microbes result in IDEAL food (lipids / protein) for mushroom myc. The fiber contributes needed cellulose in a degraded stage (far better than uncomposted straw).
Ideal horse manure substrate has been weather leached by exposure to rain & sun drying. It should look about like the picture below. Note most nuggets & muffins remain semi intact.
It should have no URINE/AMMONIA or FECAL small at all. That is SWEET H/POO.  HORSE MANURE


*That will happen sometimes - when you have a combination of 1. Your substrate was not thoroughly pasteurized, 2. Was too moist & 3. Kept / incubated at to high a temperature.
You get instant bacterial bloom & yeast fermentation that smells SWEET.
I would guess the substrate was a bit wet, (possibly -not cooled completely) & kept - spawned - incubated at to high a temperature.
Big bulk substrates incubate better around 72/74F.
EDIT - TO ADD:
If you cannot incubate in the 72/74 temp range.
Make your subs thinner, so they don't generate as much internal heat.
As - high ambient air temp - excess moisture - combined with microbial activity kick-start a bloom & the bloom generates more heat, which starts yeast type fermentation.
Once it starts. It f/u's the whole substrate. HORSE MANURE PROBLEMS


*Having a source of primo h/poo is akin to a thirsty man finding a clear spring of cold water on a long dry desert trek.
In some ways it is like a vintage wine, aged to perfection, with an aroma, all it’s own.
Over time - you become a connoisseur & know a fine vintage - by sight, smell & texture.
Working with it - gives one the satisfaction of turning excrement into fruits of the Gods.
It is one of the most productive recycling methods - the world has known. WHITE HORSE MANURE, FANG

*Remember this. Too much of a good thing, can turn it BAD. The only thing I would add, is maybe 15 or 20% vermiculite that was hydrated with any excess liquid left over from any soaking you did to the h/poo. That adds more nutrients & increases moisture retention capacity. Always think about the fact that fresh mushroom consists of 90% moisture. So, you want a substrate to have a high sponge like moisture capacity. Besides that, add about 1 fluid ounce of vegetable oil to every 2 kilos of h/poo. If you want to, you might think about adding a small amount of worm castings. But, not much. No more than 5%. I would be VERY careful about adding any blood meal. Most often it is around 14% nitrogen content. Which can burn myc. A tiny bit of any type vegetable oil adds nutrients, and helps myc contact each other & fuse together in a substrate. Sure, you can add Vermiculite, V/oil & water all at the same time, when hydrating your h/poo.  SUBSTRATE ADDATIVES

*I think the combo did you in. I am not a fan of worm castings, as the consistency is much like mud. Nor am I a fan of "fresh" straw. As nature intended it to be fairly water resistant. Note - it has a bright waxy coating protecting it. The combination of the two - doesn't balance out - either. One is too much like mud, the other is not biodegraded enough to absorb water well. Well-weathered h/poo is effectively biodegraded, has a beneficial microbial biomass, a high fiber (lignocellulose) & nitrogen content. Well-tailored compost is the best possible substrate. Next down the rung - is well-weathered h/poo. SUBSTRATE WORM, FRESH STRAW, HORSE MANURE

*Just check with stables, breeders, and horse boarding places, anywhere with horses. Tell them it’s for a rose garden, or some such BS. Take a spade, tote bin, or big garbage bags. Most folks will gladly give you a trunk, or P/U bed full. Hell, even offer to pay a few bucks, for a load. best investment - you ever made. Just ASK, smile, and be polite & straightforward. H/poo isn't a schedule 1 drug, after all. FINDING HORSE MANURE

*Ideal nutrient composition for mushroom substrate is: carbon / nitrogen ratio <17:1, nitrogen 2.6%, phosphorus 0.2-05%, potassium 1.5-2.5%, calcium 1.5-2.5%, available boron <2 ppm, available ammonium <10 ppm, soluble salts 3.0-5 OdS/m.
Nitrogen level of chicken manure is about 22. SUBSTRATE MUSHROOM

*Shallow substrate lose their moisture content VERY FAST, as shrooms pin, grow & mature. That is one of your problems. A deeper substrate would help, simply because it has a larger moisture reservoir. I have found 'cased" 2.5 to about 3.75 inches deep substrate - does great. It would appear you also need a better light source. SUBSTRATE DEPTH

*My little meaningless findings are that a substrate with about a carbon / nitrogen ratio <17:1, nitrogen 2.6%, phosphorus 0.2-05%, potassium 1.5-2.5%, calcium 1.5-2.5%, available boron <2 ppm, available ammonium <10 ppm, soluble salts 3.0-5 OdS/m. Makes for great sub, and as potent as I can manage. SUBSTRATE PNCY

*My experience with dehydrated cow manure pellets is: Not knocking any particular vendor product, just my experience that it is TO HOT, LACKS FIBER & HAS A MUD LIKE CONSISTENCY. Even mixed with straw, it doesn't do well. Myc will not colonize it - worth a damn. SUBSTRATE DEHYDRATED MANURE

*You can sterilize manure for substrate. However, in doing so you create a target vector for contamination. As any sterile nutrient exposed to air... is a great target, without competitors. Much more so that pasteurized h/poo. STERILIZING SUBSTRATE

*Dog hit it. If it is weathered aged & bone dry (no piss or fecal smell), no soak needed. Just hydrate & pasteurize, allow to cool to room temp & you are good to go. HORSE MANURE

As a cased substrate flushes, it depletes nutes & you get less pins, But the pins you do get - receive more nutes & accordingly - produce bigger Shrooms. FLUSH

*Kelp meal = 1 teaspoon full to 5 lbs dry substrate. Thistle seed = not much - like a couple tablespoons per 5 lbs og dry substrate. SUBSTRATE YIELD

*The more SPAWN, the more time release nutrients & quicker colonization. I recommend 20%. SPAWN RATIO

*If you use RYE to fruit off of, add a little COIR. Helps to retain & distribute moisture for better flushes. RYE

*Combo of WBS, rye, cracked corn, fine chopped straw works great. FILTER PATCH BAGS

*Bigger optimal substrates = bigger better crops SUBSTRATE






HARVEST

*Veil protects the spores; I always wait until it just STARTS to tear. HARVEST



G2G

*G2G means Grain-to-Grain transfers.
Once you have learned to prepare sterilized spawn pint or quart jars of birdseed, rye or grains & fully colonize them with mycelium. You can easily propagate a single colonized quart jar of that into about 20 more via G2G transfers.
Jars propagated via G2G transfers generally colonize under optimal conditions 100% in 10 to 14 days. Given that, spores do not have to germinate, as what is transferred to freshly prepared jars is active mycelium on fully colonized seed or grains.
The method is to prepare fresh jars, just as you would to inoculate via a spore syringe (soak seed, rinse, drain, load, apply filter disk & PC). Accepting, rather than inoculate the fresh jars with a syringe. You transfer grain from a colonized jar to fresh uncolonized jars.
The procedure is simple & only requires common sense, minimal preparation, a long stout clean stainless steel spoon & the cleanest personal hygiene and the smallest uncarpeted working place you can muster.
Prepare the smallest cleanest uncarpeted room you have (generally, a bathroom). In the following manner. Clean the room as best you can, getting rid of any dirt, dust, mold or mildew. Remove any cloth hanging anywhere.
Spray Lysol on everything, everywhere & wipe it down. If you have any HEPA type air filter unit? Place it in the room & run it for at least 1 hour. Running a HEPA is preferable, but, if you don't have one. You can usually manage without it
Wipe your fully colonized jar of grain & your fresh jars down, with a clean Lysol sprayed rag. Place those in the room, on the counter top, or whatever flat working surface you intend to use. Wear freshly laundered clean cloths.
If you have a face mask (preferable) wear it. If you have a shower cap to cover your hair (preferable), wear it. Enter the room; spray Lysol around (again) run the HEPA for a few minutes (if you have one). Then, turn it off. Spray your hands & arms with Lysol & wipe dry.
Unscrew the lid off the colonized jar. Leave the internal filter disk or filter material in place covering the content. Unscrew the lid on a fresh jar, leaving the internal filter material in place. Remove the filter material from the colonized jar & dig up about? Of content, as it will be colonized into a solid mass.
Spoon out 2 table spoons full & transfer them to the uncolonized jar, by lifting it's filter up & spooning them in. Replace the filter material on the fresh jar IMMEDIATELY after spooning in the colonized material.
Repeat this same process as many times as you have fresh jars to transfer to. Once done. Screw the fresh jars lids on tight. Cover the outside of the lids of the fresh jars with a double layer of alcohol swabbed coffee filters & rubber band them down.
Shake each fresh jar to spread the colonized material throughout it. Place your fresh jars in a dry, dark, warm place (preferably between 78 & 84 F), and allow them to colonize in peace & quiet. G2G transfer & shaking jars batters the mycelium.
It takes it a day or 3 recuperate from that shock. There is no need to shake G2G jars more than once. As, doing so will only slow colonization, rather than speed it up. G2G LIFE LOVE HAPPINESS

*Anno, Agar good thoughts.
I am starting my Agar experiments next week. When isolating multi-spore cultures into single sub-strains. Explain that process and how it relates to they "aging" of myc...
Lets say you have 10 sub-strains that show up in your master dish. Simple isolation techniques give you (lets say in a perfect world) 10 sub-strain "master" dishes. From those ten, you chose two that you find to be superb, and create a few copies of each for inoculations. You discard or put into storage the remaining eight. You made the copies so you can experiment with your isolated sub-strain without damaging the original
Now, in terms of generation that was explained by agar...by the time you get to inoculation the myc is 4 generations old. Follow me:
Master (1st generation)
10 sub-strain dishes (2cnd)
Selected dish multiplied out into (3rd)
Inoculated Substrate (4th)
Now in terms of age explained by Anno, your inoculated substrate is the same generation, however it has lost some of its youth/vigor.
Agar also explained the transfer of myc to be comparable to that of changing a baby from one womb to the next. I am in no way challenging your knowledge of the subject, however I do disagree with the analogy. We are talking about isolating and transferring the mold from one sterile (consistent) environment to the next. Scientists can't even create an artificial environment to "grow" a fetus...that says to me we are talking about apples and oranges when comparing the two...
Now. As a side note, I know I started that thread the other day talking about grains, just as this one is. I could see there being a closer comparison between grains and a womb due to the increased complexity of its nature as compared to the simplicity of agar. However, it would seem that both Agar's and Anno's answers apply to agar...hence my questions...
That means there is a tradeoff between sub strain isolation (because of the loss of vigor through age) and just inoculating from the master dish. On one hand you have selected a superior myc, but now it’s lost some vigor. On the other hand, you have a mix of myc, but it is all young. What gives? G2G GENERATIONS

*If the myc is a healthy white & the stall problem was caused by low moisture content & nothing is funky in them?
If you can sanitize a bathroom, to use as a stand in glove box, or have a glove box & use very clean procedures.
Yes, you can G2G the healthy myc from stalled WBS jars, into fresh WBS jars.
I have done it a few times, long ago & it worked fine.
Any G2G you have to be anal about sanitizing everything, wearing hair covering, a mask & all that. G2G JAR DRIED OUT

*Consider this. G2G is sort of like a human pregnancy. The myc is colonizing, RIGHT. If you kept an embryo in a womb, then when it was near birth, transferred it to another womb, so on & so forth, multiples of times. DO YOU THINK THE BABY WOULD BE NORMAL, when it is born? I don’t think so. I don’t G2G past G3. Otherwise, defects begin to show up. G2G

*IMHO, MASTER GRAIN JAR is from spores. Generation (G) 1 is G2G from Master Jar. G2 is G2G from G1, G3 is G2G from G2, so on & so forth. G2G

*I wait until the whole jar is snow white, and then give them 3 or 4 more days to insure they are 100% colonized. COLONIZED JAR

*Stamets advises no more than 3 G2G's & I see why. That is, if you want to keep then pure to what you started with. G2G

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:00 PM)

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Registered: 07/29/07
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467259 - 05/31/08 12:44 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

OTHER

*Name: ALCOHOLS
Ethyl alcohol (ethanol) and isopropyl alcohol?s are the most frequently used alcohol.
Formula:
Ethanol: CH3CH2?OH Isopropanol: CH3?CH?OH
Inflammable. CH3
Effect:
Alcohol kill vegetative forms of bacteria (including TB) and fungi, but have no action on spores or viruses (there might, however, be some effect on kappeb?rende vira).Their effect depends on concentration and type of alcohol.
The following three solutions have similar effect:
Ethanol 70% , isopropanol 60% and n-propanol 40%
70-80% alcohol inactivates HIV and Hepatitis B in 2-10 minutes.
How does it work:
Alcohols precipitate proteins and solubilize lipids present in cell membranes.
It has a rapid action.
Contact time should preferably be 10-30 minutes.
Toxicity:
Ethanol is absorbent and astringent and dries out the skin. Propanoles are less absorbent, but they might penetrate the skin. The brief irritant action seen on the skin , when alcohol is applied in high concentrations, results from partial precipitation of cellular proteins and from its dehydrating actions. If strong alcohol vapors are inhaled, the irritation causes reflex closure of glottis.
Effect on other materials:
Non-corrosive
May damage rubber, shellac and plastic
Interaction:
Synergistic effect together with iodine, chlorhexidin and quaternary ammonium compounds.
Alcohols are easily inactivated by organic material.
Use:
Hands, skin and instruments and surfaces: 60-70% ethanol.
In this case the effect is not enhanced with higher concentration, as it takes water to practice its effect. ETHANOL/ALCOHOL




*Contaminates are a FACT OF LIFE, as we live in a biospere full of them.
Learning procedures to minimize open-air contact is key to success in this hobby in printmaking, LC's & agar petri work.
Sterility, gloves, masks, hair covering goes a long way. Proof of that is I used to do open air work in a sanitized bathroom, with the air vent closed & misted down.
I now have a PRO grade flow hood
My contamination rate with the flow hood is under 2%.
Working in a sanitized bathroom, my contamination rate was under 4%.
A good glove box will suffice, but are a PITA to work in.
Always remember, you are a contaminate, open air is a contaminate carrier of spores you cannot even see. Clean your work area, work in calm air, wear gloves, a mask & hair covering..... all goes a long way. STERILIZATION




*Ion generators act by charging microscopic airborne particles in a room so that they are attracted to walls, floors, counter tops, etc. In some cases devices contain a collector plate to attract the charged particles back to the unit (ionic breeze - for instance). A Simco Airostat XC has a fan inside that sucks air in, passes it through the generator (charging particles), then forces the air past collector points inside it, and the particles attach to the points (which can be automatically cleaned). Any particles that get past the collectors are attracted to walls, floor, etc. Meaning, they do not stay airborne. Running a good quality portable hepa filter in a small enclosed area (like a bathroom), in conjunction with Simco Airostat XC reduces airborne contaminate factors to almost clean-room quality (assuming you are clean, wear a face mask, hair cover & gloves). Once you run the combination for a while, simply spray down all the hard surfaces with Lysol, or any good sanitizing agent. Then run the combo - a bit longer, then turn them OFF. You are then in still SUPER clean air - like working in a giant glove box (with a cold brew in hand). ION GENERATORS

*They throw out a HUGE amount of FOG. If you get one, get the single one & the splash guard. You need to have a timer that will turn OFF/ON in very small time increments. Like 5 minutes every 2 to 4 hours - depending on the size & style of your fruiting chamber. Beware, these things throw out a HUGE amount of moisture, in a very short time. You can actually flood trays & the substrate gets soggy. Myc doesn't like WET FEET. Used with a small oscillating fan, they work great in LARGE fruiting chamber. Also, fog is so thick, it tends to fall almost straight down, unless you have a fan in with it, to blow the fog around - so - it is more evenly dispersed. MIST MAKER

*The key to liquid culture besides the fluid & nutrients is MINIMAL exposure to unfiltered air. Normal unfiltered air carries about 100,000 microscopic particulates per cubic feet, many of which are mold, tric & other contam spores.
In other words, 1 cubic foot of unfiltered air, is a contam BOMB - waiting to happen. All it needs is a place with nutes, moisture & various temps.
Other key to liquid culture is a CLEAR container, so you can fully view & carefully inspect it for contaminates.
Suggest if you are going to try microwaving liquid culture, doing so in a CLEAR GLASS JAR, with PLASTIC microwaveable lid. MICROWAVE LIQUID CULTURE

*IMHO, it is actually a combination of acidic wastes & digestive enzymes that eat holes in thin aluminum trays or foil.
Mycelium excretes a complex array of strong enzymes for digestion. The enzymes are present in multiple forms, based on a single inherent genetic sequence, and include a range of isoenzymes, which arise from different inherent genetic sequences.
Those enzymes degrade large parts of a substrate into simple soluble forms of sugars, amino acids and other substances, which are absorbed into the mycelia network with which they in combination with moisture form fruit bodies with. MYCELIUM ENZYMES

*NO. Coffee filters are to porious, fragile & contaminates can pass through them. Moisture (vapor)& a very small amount of gas can pass through tyvek. Tyvek is resistant to the passage of air. Hold a piece to your mouth & try to blow through it. Nada.
Quote from Tyvek site: "The unique qualities of Tyvek? help stop air flow through wall cavities; help hold out bulk water and wind-driven rain; and allow moisture vapor to escape from inside walls.". TYVEK VS COFFEE FILTERS

*If you get a shit smell, that is nasty bacteria blossoming. If you get a odd sort of sweet smell, that is usually fermentation. Cow poo does that - often. Good weather aged h/poo seldom does, if pasteurized right. If it was fully pasteurized wet, fermentation is usually caused by a higher than normal incubation temperature & a heat spike - or surge.
You say you used my "cooking" method. What - did you do? Hydrate h/poo, place in a bag & heat the bag in a pot of water. What was the water temp? Was it in the 170/180F range & for how long? AFTER SPAWNING

*Clean dark storage with a temp range of 72 to 84F.
So long as any fluctuation is within that range, you should be fine.
A steady 78/82F leads to quicker colonization.
A high rh (70/80) keeps jars from drying out.
Yes - you can store a partial syringe. INOCULATING TEMPERATURE/INCUBATION

*Optimal conditions INCLUDE:

1. Darkness
2. High ambient rh inside & outside bag (so bag doesn’t lose moisture)
3. Temp 82 / 85F CONSTANT
4. Do not MANIPULATE bag until at least 15% colonized.
4. PATIENCE.

*Yes, ya sure can bake it in an oven.
However, you should use a baking bag to retain the moisture content inside the bag, or it will steam away & be sure to have an accurate oven thermometer inside the oven. As most oven dial gauges are OFF 25 (+/-) degree's one-way or the other.
25 degree’s on the cool side means it doesn't get pasteurized & 25 degree's on the hot side means it is semi-sterilized. Either of which DEFEATS the purpose of PASTURIZATION. PASTURIZING IN OVEN

*The quickest cheapest way is to empty the room, sanitize all surfaces, plug the forced air vent, then use a 10X100 foot roll of 2 to 4 mil plastic (Home Depot / Lowes for about $23)& wallpaper the ceiling, walls & floor.
You can use sheetrock screws, a screw gun & small pieces of inexpensive plastic molding...to hold the plastic tightly in place. Use rubber mats in the walking area's to protect the plastic on the floor. SANITIZING A ROOM

*Depends on quality of the LC, the amount of WBS, how it was prepared, in what size bag, if bag had proper filter patch, the WBS preparation - sterilization method - how effective it was, the bag sealing method, the WBS moisture content at inoculation, the amount of LC inoculate, the handling of the bag & if the bag is incubated at optimal temperatures? Lots of variable to ponder. HOW LONG TO SEE GROWTH ON WBS

*They breed (lay eggs) in substrate (not to mention intro mucho contams), eggs hatch to larva that are like mini maggots that burrows around in substrate & tunnel into & eat inards of shrooms. Not a good thing. If you have any potted plants in soil around inside, that gives them enough to do their thing in, so treat any - with whatever to rid the house of the bastards. FLIES

*Drill two holes in the jar lid(s). One for gas exchange, another to inoculate through. hen you pull sheath off needle - wrap it in alc swabbed paper towel, or cotton ball. Remove coffee filters - push needle through hole & tyvek, 1 squirt down center 1 in each corner (against the glass), withdraw needle, tape over hole - replace coffee filters. JAR LIDS

*Usually this happening is brought about by the poo being 1. TO FRESH (not dry/cured first), 2. IMPROPERLY PASTURIZED (to cool or hot), 3. TO MOIST (at time of spawning) 4. LACK OF GAS EXCHANGE CAPACITY (while incubating), 5. TO LOW A SPAWN RATE 6. Incubation at HIGHER THAN OPTIMAL temps. SMELLY HORSE MANURE

*If ever you are in a thrift store & see an electric single wine bottle chiller, grab that puppy up. They have a dial adjustment & work wonders for keeping the temp down - in a large fruiting chamber. ill a water balloon, stuff it in where the bottle should go & you are set. Adjust dial accordingly. COOLING FRUITING CHAMBER

*Mush/Cult is much like cooking. Without the proper recipe, ingredients, utensils, implements & space it is difficult to cook a decent meal.
Without proper knowledge & things Mush/Cult requires, the result is a lot of wasted effort, time, material & work.... for NADA. MUSHROOM CULTIVATION

*Busting the MYTH
Tyvek with 25% recycled content, means 25% of the polyester material tyvek consists of......is recycled polyester material.
There is no PAPER in it, otherwise it could not be TYVEK(tm), or labeled as it. TYVEK

*Impeller type cool mist does wonders for fresh air exchange & keeping rh high......plus can be automated easy as adding a timer. COOLMIST
*I have had vacuum-sealed cracker dry ones, set in the freezer a year. They would KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF. Trick is mummy dry, vacuum-sealed & they will last for decades - without loss of ANYTHING. STORING LIONS MANE

*Keeping the needle wrapped at all times in a damp alc swab best does clean inoculation. Doing so - decreases the possibility of any contaminate in open air coming in contact with the needle & being introduced into the filter the needle pass's through & into the jar - that way. INOCULATING

*If you want/can spend the bucks, a small portable window or freestanding type air con unit (with thermostat) on a shelf, the floor (or wherever) rigged to exhaust the heat exchanger out the dryer vent would work - well. FAE

*If you have the spawn well mixed into the substrate & top loaded a little heavy. When the top is 100% colonized, give it another 4 or 5 days for what’s underneath to catch up. SPAWNING

*I run mine for 15 or 20 minutes in a closed room, before I do any sterile work in it. I do not run it - while working. A Simco XC is like an sharper image ionic breeze times 10,000. AIR PURIFIER

*Either way functions the same.
Rye/wbs spawn adds more delayed release nutes, IMHO. PNCY

*No moisture, steam or pressure in an oven & a bag will not hold pressure. You will end up with it cooked, not sterilized. STERILIZING IN OVEN

*Myc on caps usually means rh is too high. A little more air exchange would lower it. RH PROBLEM MYCELIUM/CAP

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:02 PM)

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Registered: 07/29/07
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467262 - 05/31/08 12:44 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

AGARS NOTES MUSHROOM COMPOST PART 1 OF 3


MUSHROOMS/COMPOST

*Below is the long-winded PATENT for SpawnMate: (I make my own)

Intact seed-based delayed-released nutrient supplement for mushroom cultivation

Abstract
There is provided a method of cultivating mushrooms and mushroom spawn, wherein a delayed-release nutrient supplement is utilized. The method is an improvement over prior methods, which utilize nutrient supplements in the growing of mushrooms and mushroom spawn. The improvement comprises using as a nutrient supplement an intact seed having its sprouting capability irreversibly inhibited or destroyed, or mixtures thereof, and having inherent delayed-release properties.

The present application is a Continuation-in-Part of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 07/943,669 filed on Sep. 11, 1992, now U.S. Pat. No. 5,291,685, issued Mar. 8, 1994, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. In a method of cultivating mushrooms wherein a time delayed-release nutrient supplement is utilized therein, the improvement comprising:

Using as the supplement an intact seed having its sprouting capability irreversibly inhibited or destroyed, or mixtures thereof, having inherent delayed-release properties.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is capable of releasing its nutrient reserve within a period of about 3 weeks in the method recited.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is of an oilseed species, or an allied seed species thereof, selected from the group consisting of flax, rape, mustard, radish, sunflower, cabbage, sesame, soybean, niger, cotton, corn, safflower, and mixtures thereof.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein the intact seed is capable of releasing its nutrient reserve within a period of about 3 weeks in the method recited.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is a rapeseed, which is capable of releasing its nutrient reserve within a period of about 3 weeks in the method, recited.

6. The method of claim 5, wherein the rapeseed is a CANOLA variety.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is of a seed species selected from the group consisting of:

Brassica adpressa, B. campestris, B. carinata, B. chinensis, B. fruticulosa, B. hirta, B. integrifolia, B. juncea, B. napus, B. nigra, B. oleracea, B. tournefortii, Calendulm officinalis, Camelina sativa, Centranthus macrosiphon, Ceratotheca sesamoides, Crepis alpina, Dimorphotheca plurialis, Diplotaxis erocoides, Eruca sativa, Impatiens balsamina, Lesguerella fendler, Limnanthes alba, Medicago sativum, Olea european, Raphanus sativus, Sesamum avernsis, Sinopis alba, Zea mays, and mixtures thereof.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is of a seed species selected from the group consisting of:

Arachis spp., Carthamus spp., Crambe spp., Cuphea spp., Elaeis spp., Euphorbia spp., Glycine spp., Gossypium spp., Guizotia spp., Helianthus spp., Linum spp., Papaver spp., Ricinus spp., Sesamum spp., Simmondsia spp., and mixtures thereof.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is subjected to an irreversible sprout inhibiting treatment selected from the group consisting essentially of:

dry heating, autoclaving, gamma irradiating, ultraviolet irradiating, microwaving, micronizing, treating with ultrasound, treating with anti-sprouting chemical agents, breeding or incorporating genetic sterility, and mixtures thereof.

10. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is subjected to an irreversible sprout inhibiting treatment, comprising heating the intact seed at about 195.degree. F. for about 24 hours.

11. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is subjected to an irreversible sprout inhibiting treatment, comprising autoclaving the intact seed at about 252.degree. F. for about 1.5 hours.

12. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used at spawning.

13. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used at casing.

14. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used during the mushroom production cycle.

15. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used for cultivation of a mushroom species selected from the group consisting of:

Calvatia gigantea,

Flammulina velutipes,

Lentinula edodes,

Panoeolus venenosus,

Philota namelco,

Strophari rugosa-annluata,

Tremeila fuciformis,

Volvariela volvacea, and mixtures thereof.

16. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used for cultivation of a mushroom species selected from the group consisting of:

Agaricus spp.,

Auricularia spp.,

Boletus spp.,

Cantharellus spp.,

Morchella spp.,

Pleurotus spp, and

mixtures thereof.

17. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used for increasing the rate of mycelial growth in the compost.

18. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used to increase the rate of mycelia growth in the casing.

19. The method of claim 1, wherein the supplement is used to increase the yield of mushrooms.

20. In a method of producing mushroom spawn wherein a cereal grain is generally colonized by a fungal mycelium to introduce the fungus into the compost in the formation of mushrooms, the improvement comprising:

using as a substrate for the spawn, an intact seed having its sprouting capabilities irreversibly inhibited or destroyed, or mixtures thereof, having inherent delayed-release properties;

wherein the intact seed is of an oilseed species, or an allied. seed species thereof, selected from the group consisting of flax, rape, mustard, radish, sunflower, cabbage, sesame, soybean, niger, cotton, corn, safflower, and mixtures thereof.

21. The method of claim 20, wherein the intact seed is an amendment to the cereal grain.

22. The method of claim 20, wherein the intact seed is capable of releasing its nutrient reserve within a period of about 3 weeks in the method recited.

23. The method of claim 20, wherein the intact seed is rapeseed.

24. The method of claim 23, wherein the rapeseed is capable of releasing its nutrient reserve within a period of about 3 weeks in the method recited.

25. The method of claim 23, wherein the rapeseed is a CANOLA variety.

26. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is coated with a hydrophobic substance in order to enhance the delayed-release of the nutrient reserve therein.

27. The method of claim 1, wherein the intact seed is coated with a hydrophilic substance in order to enhance the delayed-release of the nutrient reserve therein.

28. The method of claim 20, wherein the intact seed is coated with a hydrophobic substance in order to enhance the delayed-release of the nutrient reserve therein.

29. The method of claim 20, wherein the intact seed is coated with a hydrophilic substance in order to enhance the delayed-release of the nutrient reserve therein.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates generally to the field of mushroom cultivation and more particularly to an environmentally compatible, intact seed-based, delayed-released nutrient supplement for mushrooms, a process for making same, and a process for utilizing it in the cultivation of mushrooms.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Fungi are microscopic, spore-bearing organisms that lack chlorophyll and therefore derive nourishment from dead or living organic matter [Alexopoulos, C. J., e al., Introductory Mycology (1979), Chapter 1]. Because they share characteristics of both plants and animals, they are classified separately in the Kingdom Myceteae. Within this Kingdom, there are the "filamentous fungi," so named because their vegetative bodies consist of small filaments referred to as "hyphae." Typically, the hyphae grow in a branching fashion, spreading over or within the substrate used as the source of nourishment, thereby forming a network of hyphae called "mycelium." In the life cycle of most filamentous fungi, the mycelium gives rise to either asexual or sexual reproductive bodies bearing spores. The spore is functionally comparable to the seed of higher plants, being important in the dispersal and survival of the fungus in nature. Under suitable environmental conditions, the spore germinates to form another generation of hyphae and so completing the life cycle of the fungus.

Perhaps filamentous fungi are best known for their edible, fleshy, spore-bearing, reproductive structures called "mushrooms." Mushrooms have been grown commercially for many years. Throughout these years, commercial production of cultivated mushrooms has increased dramatically. In 1939, worldwide production of Agaricus bisporus (=A. brunnescens), the most popular of the edible cultivated mushrooms, was 46,000 tons. By 1982, such production was in excess of 850,000 tons [Flegg, P. B. and Wood, D. A., The Biology and Technology of the Cultivated Mushroom, Chapter 1, p. 7 (1985)].

The common edible mushroom (e.g., A. bisporus) has both vegetative and reproductive ("fruiting") forms. The form most familiar to consumers is the fruiting form (i.e., mushroom), which has a stalk and an umbrella shaped cap. The life cycle of this mushroom fungus begins with the germination of a spore, which produces hyphae. A collection of hyphae compacts together and forms the mycelium. The mycelium then grows and invades the environment as networks, Small masses at the periphery of the network of mycelium enlarge and differentiate to form immature mushrooms called "buttons." The buttons rapidly enlarge and burst through the soil and become mature mushrooms. Mushrooms are produced from mycelium in cycles referred to as "breaks" or "flushes." A single population of mycelium may produce multiple breaks. The mushrooms then produce spores, which germinate and produce further mycelium.

Methods of commercial mushroom cultivation are well known and generally involve inoculating beds or trays of compost with mushroom spawn. Such compost is rich in nutrients and capable of supporting the mushroom fruiting stage. As used herein, the term "spawn" refers to a nutrient substrate, typically rye or millet, colonized by mycelium. In the process referred to as "spawning," the spawn is mixed with compost to promote growth of the mycelium throughout the compost. The compost is usually comprised of straw-bedded horse manure or other combinations of fibrous plant material. Several weeks after spawn dissemination, when the compost has been sufficiently colonized by the fungus, the compost is covered with a thin layer of "casing soil" (e.g., peat, soil). This process is called "casing." Within weeks of casing, mushrooms develop and are harvested in breaks. U.S. Pat. No. 4,803,800 is related to it.

Owing to its stimulatory effect on the yield of mushrooms, the addition of protein-rich, lipid-rich supplements (generally soybean meal) to the compost has become a widespread practice in the commercial cultivation of the button mushroom, A. bisporus. Typically, supplements are added at the time when the compost is inoculated with the mushroom fungus (e.g., supplementation of spawning). Supplements may also be mixed with the compost at casing (e.g., supplementation at casing). In yet another variation on the time of supplementing, supplements can be added during the mushroom production cycle.

A salient feature of commercial supplements is that the availability of nutrients is delayed until the mushroom fungus has thoroughly invaded the compost, thereby minimizing early utilization by competitive microorganisms within the compost. The state-of-the-art mechanism of delayed-release involves formaldehyde-denaturation of the protein (Spawn Mate Co.) and encasing the protein in a water-repellent film containing the fungicide Mertect (Thiabendazole) (Campbell Soup Co.). [These techniques are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,942,969; 4,370,159; 4,534,781; and 4,617,047]. However, because these materials contain biohazardous chemicals, their future in the mushroom industry is tenuous. Formaldehyde has been restricted by the Environmental Protection Agency and California now requires the routine monitoring of workers handling Spawn Mate for exposure to formaldehyde.

Campbell Soup's supplement was temporarily banned in Canada. Considering the emerging trend towards the reduced usage of chemicals in agriculture, there is an urgent need to develop an environmentally safe, delayed-release supplement for mushrooms. The present invention overcomes the above-described disadvantages inherent with various compositions and methods of the art. The invention presents compositions, methods for their preparation and use, which permit safe, economical, and convenient application in the commercial production of mushrooms.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention is based upon the unexpected observation that the intact seed of certain plant oilseed species and allied species [e.g., rape (=rapeseed), flax, mustard, radish, sunflower, cabbage, sesame, and like species], having been treated to cause a loss in their ability to germinate, are capable of functioning as delayed-released nutrient supplements for increasing the yield of mushrooms in commercial cultivation. In accordance with the present invention based upon this observation, intact seeds, preferably an oilseed, and most preferably rape, are treated to prevent sprouting and thereafter used as a mushroom nutrient supplement. Preferably, the seed is heated, (e.g., 195.degree. F. for 24 hours) to destroy germination capability. The resulting product is a non-composted intact seed-based naturally occurring delayed-released nutrient supplement that is suitable for use in commercial mushroom production. The invention differs significantly from prior practices that used chemicals (e.g., formaldehyde) to delay the release of nutrients.

The invention may be practiced by adding a treated seed species (e.g., an oilseed species), or a mixture of such species, to the compost thereby increasing the yield of mushrooms in a manner similar to the prior art chemical-based supplements. With the formulations of the invention, however, no harmful chemicals are required in its preparation. In the preferred practice, only a heat treatment is used to inhibit sprouting of the seed species chosen.

Although the reasons for the success of the present invention are not known, it is expected that the treatment of seed compositions of the invention to remove or inhibit their ability to germinate may or may not be lethal to the seed in the composition. It is also expected that large-scale manufacturing using intact seed-based nutrient supplements of the invention would be more economical than prior art supplements. Compositions of the invention are also expected to be environmentally safe and are inherently less biohazardous to manufacture and utilize than existing commercial supplements that utilize chemical denaturants/antimicrobial protectants.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

It is therefore an objective of this invention to provide an environmentally compliant delayed-release nutrient supplement for use in mushroom cultivation.

A further object of this invention is to provide an economical intact seed-based nutrient supplement for increasing the yield of mushrooms grown commercially.

It is yet a further objective of this invention to provide an intact seed-based nutrient substrate for the preparation of mushroom spawn.

Advantages of the present invention over the prior art and a better understanding of the invention and its use will become more apparent from the following disclosure in conjunction with the accompanying drawings wherein there are set forth fully, by way of illustration and example, certain embodiments of the invention.

THE DRAWINGS

The present invention will become more fully understood from the detailed description given here and below and the accompanying drawings which are given by way of illustration only, and thus, are not limitative of the present invention, and wherein:

FIGS. 1 and 4 are line graphs comparing the temperature profiles in the compost during spawn run for various forms of supplements; and

FIGS. 2 and 3 are bar graphs comparing the yield for various supplements.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following detailed description is being provided as an aid to those desiring to practice the present invention. The following detailed description is not to be construed as limiting to the present inventive discovery, instead the present invention is only limited by the scope of the claims appended hereto and the equivalents thereof.

Treating essentially intact whole seed obtained from any suitable source, such that the capability of seed sprouting associated therewith is essentially removed, preferably practices the present inventive methods. In general, the intact seed is viewed as substantially free of damage other than that normally associated with harvesting and post-harvest handling and distribution. In a highly preferred embodiment of the invention, the chosen seed when treated, possesses the ability to timely make available to cultivated mushroom fungus its nutrient reserve within a period of about 3 weeks.

The factors, which govern whether or not a specific seed species will be an effective seed-based nutrient supplement when utilized according to the present invention, are to some extent theorized. However, several determinants, which are believed to be linked to the effectiveness of the seed of a chosen plant species, are the composition of its seed-stored nutrient reserve, the nature of the seed coat and the size of the seed.

The composition of the chosen seed's nutrient reserve is important. For example, oilseeds are preferred when one considers the relatively high content of oil including the types and amounts of lipids that are available as a nutrient source (e.g., triacylglycerols, phospholipids, glycolipids, and the like), and the amount of protein including the amino acid profile and relative amounts of each amino acid comprising said protein. On the other hand, typical cereal seeds (e.g., rye, millet, and the like) are less preferred with respect to their ability to increase the yield of mushrooms probably because they typically have a lower content of oil.

It is believed that the nature of the seed coat is an important determinant of whether or not a chosen seed will be a commercially valuable and effective delayed release nutrient supplement for use in mushroom cultivation. For example, even though a coconut is an oilseed species and may possess an effective nutrient reserve, its seed coat is such that it would probably not be breached by the mushroom fungus within the time frame of a mushroom spawn growth period (about 2-3 weeks). Thus, while a given seed may be an excellent source of nutrients, if its seed coat is relatively impenetrable, it may be a poor supplement if utilized in the methods of the present invention.

Reasons for an impenetrable seed coat include physical properties (i.e., the coat being too hard or too thick), and chemical properties (i.e., the coat contains compounds that retard its degeneration). Accordingly, the seed species that are preferred as mushroom supplements when practicing the present invention, include those having a seed coat composition that allows for the timely-availability of the seed-stored nutrient reserve, within a desired time frame, during a period of mushroom cultivation.

Exemplary of a delayed-release intact-seed nutrient supplement which has a seed coat allowing for a timely release of the nutrient reserve present in the seed, are those which allow the nutrient reserve of the seed to release within about a 3 week period of time, during a mushroom fungus colonization of a compost (i.e., spawn run).

As indicated above, the size of the seed species chosen can also be a determinant as to the effectiveness a given seed will have when utilized in the present invention. For example, the use of a coconut as a delayed release nutrient supplement in the present invention, would not be expected to be efficient from a size standpoint alone, notwithstanding discussions relating to its seedcoat. This is because in the present invention, it is preferred to utilize seeds that can be uniformly and thoroughly distributed in the mushroom compost. Also, smaller seeds have a higher ratio of surface area to nutrient reserve, which improves the availability of the seed-stored nutrients to the mushroom fungus. Accordingly, in a most preferred embodiment of the present invention, the seed of the plant species utilized possesses a maximal dimensional size of about 0.1 to 2.5 cm.

Many different varieties and species of seeds can be used in the present invention to provide an advantageous and beneficial nutrient supplement for cultivating mushrooms. Suitable oilseeds should have at least one or more of the described characteristics noted above, so that excellent results can be obtained. Nonetheless, if an intact seed is treated according to the present invention and utilized as a nutrient supplement in the compost for the production of mushrooms, or in the preparation of mushroom spawn, its use in such a fashion is encompassed by the present invention.

Preferred seeds to use in the present invention include many oilseeds, presumably due to their high oil content and other undetermined inherent properties. In this regard, for a general discussion on oilseeds, including their production, see Oilseed Crops, by E. A. Weiss, Longman Publishing (1983), and Oil Crops of the World, their Breeding and Utilization, Edited by Gerhard Robbelen, e al., McGraw-Hill Publishing (1989).

It is noted that when intact seed of a non-oilseed plant species is treated according to the present invention and utilized as a nutrient supplement in the cultivation of mushrooms, the use of such seed can be highly preferred if its nutrient reserve, seed coat and size of seed are such that one can obtain therewith a timely availability of the nutrient reserve from the treated seed within a period of about 3 weeks, when the seed is utilized as a delayed-release nutrient supplement in the production of mushrooms or preparation of mushroom spawn. Similarly, even though oilseeds are generally preferred in the present invention, a chosen oilseed may not provide adequate or advantageous results if it has an unsatisfactory nutrient reserve and/or it does not release its nutrient reserve within a period of about 3 weeks when it is used as a nutrient supplement in the methods of the present invention.

For example, in the Examples section hereof (see Example 9), it is shown that when the cereal grain seeds, rye and millet, were utilized as a mushroom supplement, after treatment to irreversibly inhibit their sprouting capability, only rye provided some improvement over the unsupplemented compost control. However the improvement obtained with the treated rye seeds was well below that obtained with the commercial supplement Spawn Mate II SE containing the chemical formaldehyde. On the other hand, several oilseed species or their relatives, namely, flax, rape, mustard, radish, oil sunflower, cabbage, and sesame gave an improvement that was equal or superior to Spawn Mate II SE. Example 9 also shows that the oilseed species corn and safflower failed to produce results as good as the control group, when they were used as delayed-release nutrient supplements.

The poor results obtained with the treated rye and millet seeds in Example 9 are believed to be due to the seed's failure to possess good determining characteristics, like those outlined above. Namely, it is believed that the rye and millet seeds provided poor results because the composition of the nutrient reserve therein was not appropriate for achieving a markedly stimulatory effect on mushroom yield, and/or their seed coats where not appropriate to allow for a timely release of the nutrient composition in an advantageous 3-week time frame. The poor results obtained with the corn and safflower oilseeds tested in Example 9 are believed to be due to relatively impenetrable seed coats.

Those skilled in the art desiring to practice the present invention, should understand that while the present invention is described in many respects to the preferred use of treated oilseeds as a delayed-release supplement in the growing of mushrooms, it also pertains to the use of other types of seeds (e.g., non-oilseeds) as delayed-release nutrient supplements. This is particularly true where the intact non-oilseed, when treated utilizing one of the treatment methods discussed herein, acts as a delayed-release nutrient supplement that is about at least as effective as Spawn Mate II SE, utilized in Example 9, when tested according to the procedure outlined herein.

A preferred oilseed to utilize in the methods of the present invention should also be about at least as effective as Spawn Mate II SE, utilized in Example 9, when tested according to the procedure outlined herein.

One of the most preferred oilseeds to utilize in the present invention is a CANOLA variety of rapeseed referred to as "Reward" obtained from Wilbur Ellis Company, Southwest Feed Division, Los Angeles, Calif. CANOLA is the name given to a group of rapeseed (Brassica rapa [=B. campestris] and B. napus) varieties that have been bred to contain low levels of erucic acid and glucosinolates. "CANOLA" is an acronym for CANADA OIL LOW ACID. It is a trademark name owned by the Canola Council of Canada. Only varieties of rapeseed that are low in these compounds are designated double zero ("00"). So CANOLA are "00" varieties of rapeseed, with all CANOLA being rapeseed, however, not all rapeseed being CANOLA. CANOLA is used as a source of oil for human consumption and for CANOLA meal used as an animal or poultry feed. In contrast, the oil of other varieties of rapeseed, which are high in erucic acid-and glucosinolates, find applications as industrial lubricants. The Proceedings of the International Canola Conference, Apr. 2-6, 1990 at Atlanta, Ga., contain a discussion of CANOLA in the paper "Canola A World Class Crop", by S. E. Younts. The details of Mr. Younts' paper are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

The present invention works with CANOLA varieties of rapeseed, and varieties of rapeseed that are high or low in erucic acid and high or low in glucosinolates (non-CANOLA varieties) also should be effective. For example, we provide evidence that several varieties of CANOLA and/or species of rapeseed or mixtures thereof grown commercially at this time, can be utilized in the present invention and provide an effective nutrient supplementation for increasing the yield of mushrooms. Also, our data indicate that other plant species within the same family as rape (mustard family) as well as species in other plant families or mixtures thereof, which are oilseed species, can be advantageously utilized in the present invention.

Other oilseed species might achieve the same effect as described here for rapeseed including but not limited to:

______________________________________
Arachis spp. Brassica adpressa
B. campestris B. chinensis
B. carinata B. fruticulosa
B. hirta B. integrifolia
B. juncea B. napus
B. nigra B. oleracea
B. tournefortii Calendulm officinalis
Camelina sativa Carthamus spp.
Centranthus macrosiphon
Ceratotheca sesamoides
Crambe spp. Crepis alpina
Cuphea spp. Dimorphotheca plurialis
Diplotaxis erocoides
Elaeis spp.
Eruca sativa Euphorbia spp.
Glycine spp. Gossypium spp.
Guizotia spp. Helianthus spp.
Impatiens balsamina
Lesguerella fendler
Limnanthes alba Linum spp.
Medicago sativum Papaver spp.
Olea european Ricinus spp.
Raphanus sativus Simmondsia spp.
Sesamum spp. S. avernsis
Sinapis alba
Zea mays
______________________________________


In a preferred embodiment, intact seed to be utilized is heated prior to use to destroy, inhibit, prevent or otherwise retard sprouting capability. Sufficient loss of seed sprouting capability is usually achieved at 195.degree. F. (90.5.degree. C.) for 24 hours in a drying oven or autoclaving at 252.degree. F. (121.degree. C.) for 1.5 hours. The time and temperature parameters are interrelated and can be combined or varied. However, treatment of the seed is required that results in about a complete--or nearly complete--irreversible inhibition or destruction of sprouting capability of the seed, or achieves death of the embryo; and otherwise retains the structural integrity of the seeds; with the treated seeds having inherent delayed release properties when utilized as a nutrient supplement in the present invention.

Although the minimum time and temperature that is needed to effect the above described and desired physiological result is variable, 195.degree. F. (90.5.degree. C.) for 24 hours or 252.degree. F. (121.degree. C.) for 1.5 hours is generally effective, but variable time/temperature regimes may be required. When selecting such regimes, one must consider what quantity of seed is being treated since larger bulks of seed may require more extreme conditions to effectively and irreversibly inhibit or destroy sprouting capability. The invention may be broadly practiced by other physical or chemical treatments to discourage sprouting including, but not limited to: gamma irradiation, UV irradiation, microwaving (induction heating), ultrasound, micronizing and anti-sprouting chemical agents. Alternatively, genetically-sterile intact seeds could be used.

We have observed (Example 1) that if the intact seed that is utilized to practice the invention is allowed to sprout, then it will be a less effective supplement, presumably due to utilization of the nutrient reserve by the developing plant, rather than the mushroom fungus.

The mechanism of how the intact treated seed compositions of the invention achieve the objective of delayed-release of nutrients is not precisely known. However, as indicated earlier, the physical and/or physiological properties of the seed coat may impede the availability of the internal nutrient reserve to microorganisms external to the seed. For this reason, it is anticipated that the delayed-release mechanism of the intact seed might be enhanced further through coating the seed with hydrophilic or hydrophobic substances in order to alter, in an advantageous manner, the availability of the seed-stored nutrients.

In any case, the seeds utilized in the present invention should be essentially intact because heat-treated seed, which is then crushed, as well as overheated seed (having a presumed loss integrity of the seed coat), have been found to lose their delayed-release property, as measured by the excessive evolution of heat in the compost during the spawn growth phase (FIG. 4). Thus, seed that has been subjected to a treatment according to the present invention (either physical chemical, or otherwise), and yet fail to promote an excessive overheating of the compost during spawn growth, should be considered to be "an intact seed."

Once the seed is properly conditioned to function as a nutrient supplement, the procedure for best implementing the supplement is the same as that used with other methods known in the art, namely, dispersing the supplement in growing media for commercial mushrooms. The various media appropriate for a particular fungus are known in the art including compost, straw, and wood or wood products (i.e., sawdust, wood chips, etc.). For A. bisporus, the supplement would be disseminated in compost, for Pleurotus spp. in straw, and for Lentinula edodes in sawdust, and so forth. The rate of application of the supplements of the invention would be similar to existing commercial supplements, in the range of approximately 2-25% on a dry weight basis of the compost. Optimization of the rate of application can be routinely determined by practitioners and a certain amount of variation may occur.

For A. bisporus and other commercial mushrooms, generally the treated seed composition of the invention can be introduced into the compost in an analagous fashion to existing commercial mushroom supplements. Practices common to the art of mushroom cultivation include addition of the supplement at the time of spawning [Schisler, L. C., "Influence of Cultural Practices on Mushroom Yield Response to Delayed-release Nutrients;" pp. 49-53 (1982); In: "Penn Sae Handbook for Commercial Mushroom Growers., P. J. Wuest and G. D. Bengtson (eds.), The Pennsylvania State University, University Park, Pa., p.129] and at the time of casing [van Gils, J. J., "Cultivation," pp. 263-308 (1988); In: The Cultivation of Mushrooms, L. J. L. D. van Griensven (ed.), Darlington Mushroom Laboratories Ltd., Sussex, England and Somycel, S. A., Langeais, France, p. 515. Additionally, the supplement can be added during the mushroom production cycle as described by Schisler, L. C., 1990, Applied Agricultural Research, 5:44-47.

The invention is preferably practiced by using heat processing in the treatment of intact seeds. Such heat processing would consist of surrounding the seed with dry air in an electric forced-air convection oven or by micronizing, which is a dry heat from microwaves emitted from an infrared burner. Alternatively, a roasting technique could be used wherein the seed is heated to the desired temperature in a suitable oven for the proper period of time. The mechanism of roasting appears to increase the nutritive value of certain animal-feed seed species, which may be utilized in the invention. It is also possible to utilize a new technology of batch and continuous blending and drying using equipment, for example, available from Patterson and Kelly Company wherein batch blenders are used to heat kill the seed. Autoclaving the seed (at 252.degree. F. (121.degree. C.) for about 1.5 hours) in a steam sterilizer may also be used.

The present invention can be adapted for use with many species, varieties, and strains of edible fungi including but not limited to:

______________________________________
Agaricus spp. Calvatia gigantea
Auricularia spp. Flammulina velutipes
Boletus spp. Lentinula edodes
Cantharellus spp.
Panoeolus venenosus
Morchella spp. Philota namelco
Pleurotus spp. Stropharia rugosa-annluata
Tremeila fuciformis
Volvariela volvacea
______________________________________


Although the invention has been particularly described with respect to the preferred use of intact treated seeds (e.g., oilseeds, including rape particularly) or mixtures thereof as a nutrient supplement for amending the compost for the purpose of increasing the yield of mushrooms, other aspects of the invention include the idea of using these disclosed intact treated seeds in the production of mushroom spawn.

Mushroom spawn (viz. cereal grain colonized by mycelium of the mushroom fungus), is used to introduce the fungus into the compost as a prerequisite to the formation of mushrooms. Typically, the cereal grain is cooked in water to rupture the seed coat and make immediately available the carbohydrate-rich nutrient reserve for supporting mycelia growth of the mushroom fungus. In accordance with this aspect of the invention, intact treated seed, preferably an oilseed species, according to the present invention is used as a substrate for the fungal mycelium, either solely or as an addition to cereal grain. It is expected that utilizing the intact treated seeds of the present invention in this aspect of the invention will allow those skilled in the preparation of mushroom spawn to provide a substrate for introducing the fungus into the compost for the colonization phase of the cropping cycle (viz. spawn-run) and, at the same time, a nutrient supplement for significantly increasing the yield of mushrooms. Techniques that can be used to prepare mushroom spawn containing intact treated seeds according to the present invention as a substrate for the fungal mycelium, include those described by Fritsche, G., "Spawn: Properties and Preparation", pp. 91-99 (1988); In: The Cultivation of Mushrooms, L. J. L. D. van Griensven (ed.). Darlington Mushroom Laboratories Ltd., Sussex, England and Somycel S. A., Langeais, France, p. 515.

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:04 PM)

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467263 - 05/31/08 12:45 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

AGARS NOTES PART 2 OF 3



EXPERIMENTAL

In the following Examples, the present invention was evaluated for its effect on the production of mushrooms compared to the state-of-the-art commercial delayed-release supplements. Although these experiments utilize off-white hybrid varieties of A. bisporus, the compositions and methods of the invention can be used to cultivate other varieties of A. bisporus as well as diverse mushroom species. The following Examples also illustrate the usefulness of the invention under both pilot plant and commercial-scale growing conditions. These examples are offered to illustrate particular embodiments of the invention, but are not intended to be limitative thereof.

EXAMPLE 1

In this Example, the intact rapeseed supplement was dispersed in the compost at the time of spawning. This production trial was conducted at the pilot plant facility of The Pennsylvania State University known as the Mushroom Research Center (MRC). For each treatment, each of six 4 ft..sup.2 trays containing 50 lbs. fresh weight of compost were spawned with 110 grams of a commercial off-white hybrid strain of A. bisporus. In treatment 1, the compost was unsupplemented. In treatment 2, the compost in each tray was mixed with 1 lb. (7% based on the dry weight of compost) o the commercial supplement Spawn Mate II SE. In treatment 3, 0.5 lbs. (3.5% based on the dry weight of compost) of the commercial supplement Fast Break was mixed into the compost of each tray. In treatments 4 and 5, the compost in each tray was amended with 1 lb. (7% based on the dry weight of compost) and 2 lbs. (14% based on the dry weight of compost) of heated rapeseed supplement, respectively.

After a 13 day spawn growth period at approximately 25.degree. C., the trays were cased with 1.5 inch thick layer of a mixture of peat and limestone and maintained at 25.degree. C. during case hold and 18.degree. C. during cropping.

It should be noted that in this experiment, the rapeseed was heated insufficiently to only 142.degree. F. (60.degree. C.) for 12 hours, so extensive sprouting of the seed occurred during the spawn growth and mushroom production phases of this crop. Aside from resulting in an unsightly appearance of rapeseed sprouts throughout the growing medium, we speculate that the developing seedling utilized much of the nutrient reserve within the seed such that the full stimulatory effect of the rapeseed supplement on the yield of mushrooms was not realized. As shown in Table 1 below, after six weeks (42 days) of production, the yield of mushrooms from compost amended with Spawn Mate II SE, Fast Break, and rapeseed at 2 lbs. per tray were statistically comparable and significantly higher than the yield obtained from unsupplemented compost. No stimulatory effect on yield was obtained with 1 lb. rate of rapeseed. This was probably related to loss of the nutrients associated with sprouting as discussed above.

TABLE I
______________________________________
Yield After Six
Treatment Breaks (lbs/ft.sup.2)*
______________________________________
Unsupplemented 2.98 b
Spawn Mate II SE (7%)
4.00 a
Fast Break (3/5%)
4.05 a
Rapeseed (7%) 3.15 b
Rapeseed (14%) 3.81 a
Source of the supplements:
Spawn Mate II SE (Spawn Mate, 1500 41st Ave.,
Capitola, CA.)
Fast Break (Penford Products Co. of Cedar Rapids, IA)
Rapeseed (Canola, Wilbur Ellis Co., Southwest Feed
Division, Los Angeles, CA) Determined to be an
unspecified mixture of canola varieties of Brassica
rapa and Brassica napus.
______________________________________
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by
the Waller Duncan Kratio t test, P = 0.05.


EXAMPLE 2

The objective of this experiment was identical to Example 1. However, here the rapeseed was treated at 195.degree. F. (90.5.degree. C.) for 24 hours in an electric, forced-air convection oven to more effectively destroy germination capability.

The cropping parameters .were similar to Example 1, the Mushroom Research Center was used, six trays per treatment, each containing 50 lbs. fresh weight of compost, each spawned with 110 grams of a commercial off-white hybrid strain of A. bisporus. The supplements were mixed into the compost at the time of spawning. A 13 day spawn growth period at 25.degree. C. was used. One difference between this example and Example 1 was that at the time of casing, shredded colonized compost was mixed into the casing material at the rate of 1 lb. per 10 ft..sup.2 of production bed before it was overlaid to the depth of 1.5 inches on each tray.

For each treatment, the temperature of the compost was recorded every four hours over the 13 day spawn growth phase. This was done to determine if the nutrients in the rapeseed were released too rapidly causing an excessive heating of the compost from high biological activity (i.e., other microorganisms utilizing the nutrients for their growth). This is an important consideration because excessive heating during the spawn growing period can directly affect the mushroom fungus and reduce the yield of mushrooms. As appears in FIG. 1, the temperature profiles of the compost that had been amended with rapeseed and the commercial delayed-release supplements, Spawn Mate II SE and Fast Break were similar in form and magnitude. Therefore, the delayed-release mechanism achieved with intact rapeseed closely paralleled that of commercial supplements consisting of chemically-treated processed seed by-products.

After four weeks (28 days) of production, the highest yield (3.58 lbs./ft..sup.2) was obtained with rapeseed supplement at 1 lb. per tray (7% dry weight basis of the compost) (Table II.). In this trial, yield with rapeseed supplement was statistically greater than with the commercial supplements Spawn Mate II SE at 1 lb. per tray (7% dry weight basis of the compost) and Fast Break at 0.5 lbs. per tray (3.5% dry weight basis). All supplements provided a significant increase in yield of mushrooms compared with the unamended compost treatment. FIG. 2 shows the yield of mushrooms at each break for the first three breaks. Addition of rapeseed to the compost at spawning increased yield at each of the first three breaks of mushrooms in a fashion similar to the commercially available delayed release supplements Spawn Mate II SE and Fast Break.

Occasional sprouts of rapeseed were observed in the compost and throughout the casing layer, but the level was well within an acceptable range.

TABLE II
______________________________________
Yield After Four
Treatment Breaks (lbs/ft.sup.2)*
______________________________________
Unsupplemented 2.32 c
Spawn Mate II SE (7%)
3.12 b
Fast Break (3.5%)
3.07 b
Rapeseed (7%) 3.58 a
Source of the supplements: Same as Table I.
______________________________________
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by
the Waller Duncan Kratio t test, P = 0.05.


EXAMPLE 3

This is another side-by-side test comparing the rapeseed supplement and commercial delayed-release supplements added to the compost at the time of spawning. The cropping trial was conducted at the Mushroom Research Center. Each treatment had 6 trays each containing 50 lbs. of compost, each spawned with 110 grams of a commercial off-white hybrid strain of A. bisporus. All other conditions for cropping were as described in example 2. The rapeseed was treated as in .Example 2 to prevent germination capability.

Table III reveals that after 4 breaks (28 days), the yield of mushrooms was comparable from compost amended at spawning with the commercial supplements Spawn Mate II SE at 1 lb. per tray (7% dry weight basis of the compost), S-41 at 0.75 lbs. per tray (5% dry weight basis of the compost), and rapeseed supplement at 1.5 lbs. per tray (10.5% dry weight basis of the compost). At the lower rate of rapeseed of 1 lb. per tray (7% dry weight basis of the compost), production of mushrooms was comparable to S-41 but lower than Spawn Mate II SE and rapeseed at the higher rate. All supplements, irrespective of their rate, increased the yield of mushrooms compared to the unamended compost control treatment. FIG. 3 depicts the yield of mushrooms at each break for the first three breaks of the cropping cycle. Rapeseed and the commercial delayed-release supplements increased yield of mushrooms at each break, however, rapeseed provided the greatest stimulatory effect during the first and second breaks.

TABLE III
______________________________________
Yield after Four
Treatment Breaks (lbs/ft.sup.2)*
______________________________________
Unsupplemented 2.35 c
Spawn Mate II SE (7%)
3.32 a
S-41 (5%) 3.12 ab
Rapeseed (7%) 2.84 b
Rapeseed (10.5%) 3.29 a
Source of the supplements:
Spawn Mate II SE and Rapeseed (Same as Table I)
S-41 (Campbell Fresh Inc., P.O. Box 169, Blandon, PA).
______________________________________
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by
the Waller Duncan Kratio t test, P = 0.05.


EXAMPLE 4

This is another evaluation of the invention as a supplement added to the compost at spawning. However, unlike the previous examples, this cropping trial was conducted according to commercial-scale growing conditions at the San Luis Rey Mushroom Farm, Bonsall, Calif. The rapeseed was treated as in Example 2.

The compost was prepared from a mixture of horse and chicken manures, cottonseed hulls, and cottonseed meal by standard practices. The compost was spawned with a commercial off-white hybrid strain of A. bisporus at the rate of 1 unit per 7 ft..sup.2 of production bed. With the exception of 120 ft..sup.2 area of the production bed, the compost was amended at spawning with Spawn Mate II SE at the rate of 7% (based upon 8 lbs. per ft..sup.2 dry weight of compost at spawning), the remaining 120 ft..sup.2 of production area was amended at spawning with 7% rapeseed calculated on a dry weight basis of the compost. After an 18 day spawn growth period at 25.degree. C., the spawn-runned compost was cased with a 1.5 inch thick layer of a mixture containing peat, sugar beet waste, calcium carbonate, and shredded colonized compost to provide 1 lb. per 10 ft..sup.2 of production bed. Results of this Example are presented in Table IV below.

TABLE IV
______________________________________
Yield lbs./ft..sup.2 at
Break Break Break Break
Treatment 1 2 3 4 Total
______________________________________
Rapeseed (7%)
2.92 2.00 1.01 0.30 6.23
Spawn Mate II SE
3.11 1.88 0.99 0.25 6.23
(7%)
Source of supplements: Same as Table 1.
______________________________________


During the spawn growth phase, the average temperature of the compost was 78.degree. F. and 80.degree. F. (25.6.degree. C. and 26.7.degree. C.) for the rapeseed and Spawn Mate II SE treatments, respectively. For each treatment, the peak of biological activity in the compost based on temperature occurred on day 13 of spawn run. Similarly, the average temperature of the compost during case hold was 79.degree. F. and 78.degree. F. (26.1.degree. C. and 25.6.degree. C.) for rapeseed supplement and Spawn Mate II SE, respectively.

After 4 breaks (28 days), yield of mushroom from the compost supplemented with either rapeseed or the commercial supplement Spawn Mate II SE was identical at 6.23 lbs./ft..sup.2. No differences in size and quality of the mushrooms existed between the treatments.

EXAMPLE 5

In this example, different methods of seed treatment were tested for their effect on sprouting and the delayed-release mechanism. The following seed treatments were used: no treatment ("Untreated"), 195.degree. C. (90.5.degree. C.) for 24 hours in an electric forced-air convection oven ("Standard"), 2.5 megarads of gamma irradiation ("Irradiated"), and autoclaved at 252.degree. F. (121.degree. C.) for 1.5 hours in plastic bags in a steam sterilizer ("Autoclaved").

It was found that untreated rapeseed had an 82% rate of germination (Table V). Treatments of either 195.degree. F. for 24 hours, 2.5 megarads of gamma irradiation, or 252.degree. F. for 1.5 hours, rendered the seed completely devoid of germination capability.

TABLE V
______________________________________
Number of Seed
Germination/Number of
Seed Treatment
Seed Tested
% Viability.sup.b
______________________________________
Untreated.sup.a
41/50 82
Standard.sup.c
0/50 0
Irradiated.sup.d
0/50 0
Autoclaved.sup.e
0/50 0
______________________________________
.sup.a No treatment was used to discourage sprouting
.sup.b Number of seed germinated divided by number of seed tested .times.
100
.sup.c 195.degree. F. (90.5.degree. C.) for 24 hours
.sup.d 2.5 megarads of gamma irradiation
.sup.e 252.degree. F. (121.degree. C.) for 1.5 hours


The variously treated rapeseed was evaluated as a delayed-release supplement in a mushroom production trial. The parameters for cropping were as described in Example 2 above. For all treatments, the compost was amended at spawning with 7% rapeseed (on a dry weight basis of the compost). During the 13-day spawn growth period, the temperature of the compost for each treatment was monitored at 6-hour intervals.

The temperature profiles of the compost during spawn run were similar for the standard-treated, gamma-irradiated, and autoclaved rapeseed, all indicating a slight evolution of heat compared to unsupplemented compost (FIG. 4). In contrast, seed treated in the standard fashion at 195.degree. F. for 24 hours in an electric, forced-air convection oven, but then ground to a powder ("Standard/Ground"), produced a dramatic rise in the compost temperature on days 2 and 3. Untreated seed, which showed extensive sprouting during the spawn run period, created a gradual rise in the temperature of the compost. This latter increase was attributed to biological heat associated with the germination of the seed and growth of the seedling.

After four breaks, yields of mushroom from compost supplemented with rapeseed, which either had been heated in a forced-air convection oven, autoclaved, or gamma-irradiated, were similar (3.54 to 3.81 lbs./ft..sup.2) and markedly higher than unsupplemented compost (2.69 lbs./ft..sup.2) (Table VI). Untreated rapeseed, which sprouted, provided a less stimulatory effect on yield.

TABLE VI
______________________________________
Yield After Four
Treatment Breaks (lbs/ft.sup.2)
______________________________________
Unsupplemented 2.69 d
Rapeseed-Untreated.sup.a
3.17 c
Rapeseed-Standard.sup.b
3.59 ab
Rapeseed-Irradiated.sup.c
3.54 b
Rapeseed-Autoclaved.sup.d
3.81 a
For each treatment, rapeseed was used at the rate of
7% on a dry weight basis of the compost.
Source of the rapeseed: Canola, Wilbur Ellis Co.,
Southwest Feed Division, Los Angeles, CA. Determined
to be an unspecified mixture of canola varieties of
Brassica rapa and Brassica napus.
______________________________________
.sup.a No treatment was used to discourage sprouting
.sup.b 195.degree. F. (90.5.degree. C.) for 24 hours
.sup.c 2.5 megarads of gamma irradiation
.sup.d 252.degree. F. (121.degree. C.) for 1.5 hours
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by
the WallerDuncan Kratio t test, P= 0.05


Several conclusions can be drawn from this experiment. First, seed undergoing sprouting is a less effective supplement, most likely due to utilization for the nutrient reserve within the seed by the developing seedling, instead of the mushroom fungus. Second, both heat-based and nonheat-based (irradiation) methods for discouraging sprouting can be used to prepare seed as a delayed-release supplement for the cultivation of mushrooms. Thus, heating per se is not essential to the delayed-release mechanism, but only acts to kill the embryo or otherwise inhibit seed sprouting. Third, heated seed that was pulverized to destroy the integrity of the seed coat, caused an excessive evolution of heat in the compost. The nutrient within the seed was available to microorganisms in the compost, which was evidenced by extensive molding of the compost during the spawn growth period. Thus, an essentially intact seed coat is apparently essential in the delayed-release response of the invention.

EXAMPLE 6

The objective of this experiment was to compare the nutrient supplementing capacity of varieties of rape for mushroom cultivation. The cropping conditions were similar to Example 2, the Mushroom Research Center was used; there were five trays per treatment, each tray contained 50 lbs. fresh weight of compost, each was spawned with 110g of commercial spawn of A. bisporus, and each was CAC-cased as described previously. Supplements were mixed into the compost at the time of spawning.

It was found that with an increase in the rate of rapeseed supplement (unspecified mixture of canola varieties of B. rapa and B. napus) from 1 lb to 2 lbs per tray, mushroom yield increased significantly (Table VII). Also, `Glacier` canola variety of B. napus and the mixture of canola varieties of B. rapa and B. napus were equally effective supplements. At a rate of 1 lb. per tray, rape and the formaldehyde-based Spawn Mate II SE stimulated yield to the same extent.

TABLE VII
______________________________________
Mushroom Yield
After Four Weeks
Treatment (lbs/ft.sup.2)*
______________________________________
Unsupplemented compost (control)
2.59 d
Spawn Mate II SE.sup.a (1 lb)
3.30 c
Rape.sup.b (1 lb) 3.45 c
Rape.sup.b (1.5 lbs) 3.99 b
Rape.sup.b (2 lbs) 4.40 a
Rape.sup.c (1 lb) 3.44 c
______________________________________
.sup.a Spawn Mate Co., Inc., 1500 41st Avenue, Capitola, CA.
.sup.b Wilbur Ellis Co., Southwest Feed Division, Los Angeles, CA.
Determined to be an unspecified mixture of canola varieties of Brassica
rapa and B. napus.
.sup.c Agway, Inc., P.O. Box 4933, Syracuse, NY. Canola variety 'Glacier'
of B. napus.-
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by
the Waller Duncan Kratio t test, P = 0.05.


EXAMPLE 7

The object of this experiment was to compare the nutrient supplementing capacity of several varieties of rape for mushroom cultivation. The experimental parameters for the crop trial were essentially as described in Example 6.

We found that the mixture of canola varieties of B. rapa and B. napus and canola variety `Glacier` of B. napus were equally effective supplements for mushroom production (Table VIII). Canola variety `Laborius` of B. napus had a lower supplementing capacity than the other canola varieties. The mixture of the canola varieties and the variety `Laborius`, when used at a rate of 1.5 lbs/tray, increased yield to the same extent as Spawn Mate II SE and S-41 used at a rate of 1 lb/tray and 0.75 lb tray, respectively.

TABLE VIII
______________________________________
Mushroom Yield
After Four Weeks
Treatment (lbs/ft.sup.2)*
______________________________________
Unsupplemented compost (control)
2.52 c
Spawn Mate II SE.sup.a (1 lb)
3.63 a
S-41.sup.b (0.75 lb) 3.76 a
Rape.sup.c (1.5 lbs) 3.81 a
Rape.sup.d (1.5 lbs) 2.89 b
Rape.sup.e (1.5 lbs) 3.58 a
______________________________________
.sup.a Spawn Mate Co., Inc., 1500 41st Avenue, Capitola, CA.
.sup.b Campbell's Fresh Inc., Box 169, Blandon, PA.
.sup.c Wilbur Ellis Co., Southwest Feed Division, Los Angeles, CA.
Determined to be an unspecified mixture of canola varieties of Brassica
rapa and B. napus.-
.sup.d Agway, Inc., P.O. Box 4933, Syracuse, NY. Canola variety of
'Laborious' of B. napus.-
.sup.e Agway, Inc., Canola variety 'Glacier' of B.
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by
the Waller Duncan Kratio t test, P = 0.05.


EXAMPLE 8

The purpose of this experiment was to compare the delayed-release nutrient supplementing capacity of two species of rape, Brassica rapa and Brassica napus. The experimental cropping conditions were essentially identical to those used in Example 6 except 130 g of spawn was mixed into each tray.

The canola variety `Reward` of Brassia rapa and the canola variety `Glacier` of B. napus as well as the undesignated mixture of canola varieties of the two species were effective delayed-release nutrient supplements for mushroom production (Table IX). Canola variety `Reward` was the most effective supplement. In agreement with the findings of Example 7, canola variety `Laborius` was an ineffective supplement.

TABLE IX
______________________________________
Mushroom Yield
After Four Weeks
Treatment (lbs/ft.sup.2)*
______________________________________
Unsupplemented compost (control)
2.18 c
Spawn Mate II SE.sup.b (1 lb)
2.88 b
Rape.sup.c (mixture of B.rapa and B.napus)
2.89 b
Rape.sup.c (B. rapa 'Reward')
3.38 a
Rape.sup.d (B. napus 'Laborius')
2.26 c
Rape.sup.d (B. napus 'Glacier')
2.80 b
______________________________________
.sup.a All supplements were used at the rate of 1 lb/tray.
.sup.b Spawn Mate Co., Inc., 1500 41st Avenue, Capitola, CA.
.sup.c Wilbur Ellis Co., Southwest Feed Division, Los Angeles, CA.
.sup.d Agway, Inc., P.O. Box 4933, Syracuse, NY.
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by
the Waller Duncan Kratio t test, P = 0.05.


EXAMPLE 9

The object of this experiment was to compare the delayed-release nutrient supplementing capacity of the intact seed of several plant species for mushroom cultivation. Cropping parameter were essentially as described for EXAMPLE 6 except there were three replicate trays per treatment.

Several oilseed species or closely-allied species, specifically flax, rape, mustard, radish, oil sunflower, cabbage, and sesame, increased yield of mushrooms at a statistically comparable level to the formaldehyde-based commercial supplement, Spawn Mate II SE (Table X). Four of the seven plant species, namely rape, mustard, radish, and cabbage, which increased mushroom yield on a par with Spawn Mate II SE, belong to the plant family Brassicaceae (mustard family). Oilseed species soybean, niger, and cotton were less effective delayed-release nutrient supplements, while oilseed species corn and safflower failed to increase yield. Cereal species, rye and millet, were lowly or non-stimulatory nutrient supplements.

TABLE X
______________________________________
Mushroom Yield
After Four Weeks
Treatment (lbs/ft.sup.2)*
______________________________________
Flax (Linum usitatissimum).sup.b
3.81 a
Rape ( Brassica rapa).sup.c
3.79 ab
Mustard ( Brassica juncea).sup.d
3.58 abc
Spawn Mate II SE.sup.e
3.46 abcd
Radish ( Raphanus sativus).sup.b
3.42 bcde
Oil Sunflower ( Helianthus annuus).sup.d
3.26 cdef
Cabbage ( Brassica oleracea).sup.b
3.16 defg
Sesame ( Sesamum indicum).sup.f
3.13 defg
Soybean (Glycine max).sup.b
3.07 efg
Niger ( Guizotia abyssinica).sup.d
3.01 fgh
Rye ( Secale cereale).sup.g
2.91 fghi
Cotton ( Gossypium hirsutum).sup.h
2.87 ghi
Millet ( Panicum miliaceum).sup.d
2.67 hij
Corn ( Zea mays).sup.d
2.60 ijk
Unsupplemented (control)
2.42 jk
Safflower ( Carthamus tinctorius).sup.d
2.29 k
______________________________________
.sup.a All supplements were used at a rate of 1 lb/tray.
.sup.b Agway, Inc., P.O. Box 4933, Syracuse, NY.
.sup.c Wilbur Ellis Co., Southwest Feed Division, Los Angeles, CA. Canola
variety 'Reward'.
.sup.d Mifflinburg Farm Exchange, Inc., Mifflinburg, PA.
.sup.e Spawn Mate Co., Inc., 1500 41st Avenue, Capitola, CA.
.sup.f Pennington Seed Co., Madison, GA.
.sup.g Stanford Seed Co., Denver, PA.
.sup.h Delta and Pineland Co., Scott, MI.
*Numbers followed by the same letter are not significantly different by SPAWN MATE, COMPOSTING, SPAWN, COMPOSTING SPAWN, SPAWN COMPOST, and SEED GRAINS

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:05 PM)

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467266 - 05/31/08 12:45 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

AGARS NOTES MUSHROOM COMPOST PART 3 OF 3


*I. Guidelines for calculating pre/compost nitrogen (N) content:
Calculate the starting N content of pile to be 1.5 to 1.7% before composting. The starting N for synthetic compost formulas may be slightly higher than the wheat straw horse manure formulas. The percent N will increase throughout Phase II and I composting and at spawning time the N content of the compost should be 2.1-2.6 %.

Knowing the N and % moisture of the bulk ingredients and supplements will increase the accuracy of the calculated and finished nitrogen content. If supplements are added by volume, occasionally weigh volume added to confirm calculated formula.

At the end of Phase I and again at the end of Phase II, compost may be analyzed for N, ammonia, ash and moisture. It is important to take a representative samples, several small handfuls thoroughly mixed. When taking a sample do not shake the compost.

II. Examples of Mushroom Compost Formulas

Horse manure pile
Ingredients Wet Wt. Dry Wt. %N Tons N
Horse manure 80 T 50 T 1.2% 0.6 T
Poultry manure 7.5 T 6.0 T 4 % 0.24 T
Brewers Grains 2.5 T 2.5 T 4 % 0.1 T
Gypsum 1.25 T 1.25 T 0
59.75 T 0.94 ? 59.75 = 1.57%


Synthetic pile
Ingredients Wet Wt. Dry Wt. %N Tons N
Hay 15 T 12.8 T 2.0 % 0.26 T
Cobs 15 T 12.8 T 0.3 % 0.04 T
Poultry manure 3.8 T 2.4 T 4 % 0.09 T
NH4NO3 0.3 T 0.3 T 32% 0.10 T
Potash 0.3 T 0.3 T 0.0 0.00
Gypsum 0.6 T 0.6 T 0.0 0.00
29.2 T 0.49 ? 29.2 = 1.68%


Horse manure-synthetic blend
Ingredients Wet Wt. Dry Wt. %N Tons N
Horse manure 15 T 10.5 T 1.2% 0.13
Hay 7.5 T 6.3 T 1.1% 0.07
Corn Cobs 7.5 T 6.4 T 0.3% 0.02
Brewer's grains 3.0 T 3.0 T 4.0% 0.12
Poultry manure 2.0 T 2.0 T 4.5% 0.09
Urea 0.1 T 0.1 T 44.0% 0.06
Potash 0.2 T 0.2 T 0.0% 0.00
Gypsum 1.0 T 1.0 T 0.0% 0.00
29.5 0.49 ? 29.5 = 1.66%

III. Suggested watering procedures during composting:

Add as much water as possible without run off during pre-wet conditioning or during the first two turns. Avoid adding too much water early during Phase I, always be able to control moisture. Add only enough during next turn or turns to wet dry spots. Bring up compost moisture to desired water content by adequate watering just before filling.

During pre-wet it is advisable to flip or turn the compost every day. After the rick or pile is built, the compost should be turn every other day unless pile temperatures have not peaked.

IV. Changes in organic matter, carbohydrates and nitrogen during mushroom composting.

Soluble carbohydrates are simply adsorbed by the microorganisms and it is converted into new living matter or provides energy for the cells. As these microorganism grow energy in the form of heat is released.

As the pile heats to temperature above 150o F the activities occurring within the pile change from biological to chemical reactions. It is at these higher temperatures that harmonization takes place. Carmelization is the process where water is eliminated from the carbohydrates and carbon is concentrated. This process can be compared to boiling sap down to make maple sugar.

V. Phase I is considered complete when as soon as the raw ingredients become pliable and are capable of holding water, the odor of ammonia is sharp and the dark brown color indicates carmelization and browning reactions have occurred.

Moisture content at filling should be 70-73%. Water should drip from compost squeezed in the hand. But a good rule of thumb to follow is: the longer, greener or coarser the compost then more moisture it can take. The shorter, more mature or dense the compost the less water it should have.

The shorter or wetter the compost, the more loosely it should be filled into the beds or trays. The longer or greener the compost, the more it can be firmed into the beds. Attempt to fill uniformly in both depth and compaction. Edges or sideboards should be packed slightly tighter, whereas the center should remain looser.

VI. Phase II composting has two objectives:

Pasteurization - elimination of undesirable insect pest, microbes and pathogens.

Conditioning - Creation of specific food for the mushroom and creating selective and suppressive compost to favor the growth of the mushroom.
VII. Insure adequate ventilation during Phase II. When in doubt, ventilate. A flame should be burn at all times.

The higher the nitrogen content of compost, the greener the compost or the more dry weight at filling time, the greater the ventilation required. When outside temperature is high as in summer or early fall, more ventilation is required than when Phase II occurs during the cold winter weather. This is especially important when the grower does not have a forced air ventilation system.

VIII. During Phase II keep compost in the temperature range where microorganisms grow best (115-140o F).

Microbes convert ammonia and ammonia-containing salts into protein and other nitrogen compounds the mushroom uses for food. The growth of these microbes depends on having the available food, adequate moisture, sufficient oxygen and suitable temperature. A shortage of one of these requirements will limit growth and often results in incomplete conditioning.

IX. Heat up (pasteurization) for insect kill early in Phase II (perhaps 1-4 days after filling) so as to avoid a second heating cycle of the compost.

A good indication that the compost is ready to pasteurized, is the subsiding of microbial activity, which is indicated by a decrease in compost temperature at the same air temperature.

X. After pasteurization slowly lower compost through the temperature ranges of the microorganisms. A general rule is to lower compost temperature no more than 4-5o F. per day.

Provided that enough food, water and oxygen the microbes will continue to grow. Different microbes use different compounds and grow at different temperatures. Therefore it is important to make sure all areas of the beds and room gradually drop through all temperatures ranges.

Thermophillic fungi grow at lower temperatures and are important because they are able to grow into denser areas of compost.

XI. Composting is considered compete when no trace of ammonia odor can be detected and the compost has a uniform flecking of white colonies of actinomycetes, called fire-fang. The N content on a dry wt. basis should be in the range of 2.0 to 2.6. MUSHROOMS




*This is the LIFE CYCLE of a mushroom (in nature).
A single mushroom spore contains a half set of chromosomes. When a single spore is in introduced into proper conditions, it germinates. Once germinated, it then sends out a mass of fine thread-like filaments searching for compatible filaments from other germinated spores, doing the same thing. They meet, then (if compatible) mate.
Once mated, the genetically complete cell structures create hyphae. Hyphae filaments is what forms mycelium that is capable of eventually fruiting out as a mushroom. Mycelium has a very high surface area to mass ratio due to the structure of the hyphae, which allows mycelium to absorb large quantities of nutrients from its surroundings after secreting digestive enzymes and digesting its food outside of its body. The ability to intake large quantities of nutrients is a prime reason for rapid mycelia growth.
So, when you inoculate multi-spore solution into a growing medium (grains) in a jar, or bag, they have to germinate, grow, search out & find compatible spore(s), doing the same thing, then mate. Once mated, the resulting mycelium (now genetically capable of fruiting), as rapidly (as conditions permit) colonizes the nutrient medium surrounding it, and under good conditions can eventually form mushrooms, capable of sporulating, thus repeating the life cycle.
SLOWEST: Multi/spore inoculation to a pre-sterilized grain medium.
Does it naturally, and takes the longest, given the extended process.
Grain To Grain (G2G) Transfers
VERY RAPID. Once you have a fully colonized grain jars, or bags that colonized grain can be manually transferred to pre-sterilized uncolonized grain in fresh jars, or bags. Colonization is very rapid, as you have introduced 100+ fully mated, and colonized contact points, into a fresh grain nutrient medium. G2G transfers are a very rapid method of spawn propagation, and can be accomplished under very aseptic conditions (see trailing G2G method).
THE FASTEST. Liquid culture from spores, colonized grain, or tissue is the FASTEST, (IMHO). Spores germinate & mate rapidly, or tissue / grain is already mated, and the mycelium produced is contained in very mobile solution. (Liquid culture, to succeed requires sterile techniques, as nutrient solutions are very contamination prone). I have left out agar / plate / slurry work as it is not something a novice should immediately attempt.
G2G means Grain-to-Grain transfers.
Once you have learned to prepare sterilized spawn pint or quart jars of birdseed, rye or grains & fully colonize them with mycelium. You can easily propagate a single colonized quart jar of that into about 20 more via G2G transfers.
Jars propagated via G2G transfers generally colonize under optimal conditions 100% in 10 to 14 days . Given that, spores do not have to germinate, as what is transferred to freshly prepared jars is active mycelium on fully colonized seed or grains.
The method is to prepare fresh jars, just as you would to inoculate via a spore syringe (soak seed, rinse, drain, load, apply filter disk & PC). Accepting, rather than inoculate the fresh jars with a syringe. You transfer grain from a colonized jar to fresh uncolonized jars. The procedure is simple & only requires common sense, minimal preparation, a long stout clean stainless steel spoon & the cleanest personal hygiene and the smallest uncarpeted working place you can muster.
Prepare the smallest cleanest uncarpeted room you have (generally, a bathroom). In the following manner. Clean the room as best you can, getting rid of any dirt, dust, mold or mildew. Remove any cloth hanging anywhere. Spray Lysol on everything, everywhere & wipe it down. If you have any HEPA type air filter unit? Place it in the room & run it for at least 1 hour. Running a HEPA is preferable, but, if you don't have one. You can usually manage without it
Wipe your fully colonized jar of grain & your fresh jars down, with a clean Lysol sprayed rag. Place those in the room, on the counter top, or whatever flat working surface you intend to use. Wear freshly laundered clean cloths. If you have a face mask (preferable) wear it. If you have a shower cap to cover your hair (preferable), wear it. Enter the room, spray Lysol around (again) run the HEPA for a few minutes (if you have one). Then, turn it off. Spray your hands & arms with Lysol & wipe dry.
Unscrew the lid off the colonized jar. Leave the internal filter disk or filter material in place covering the content. Unscrew the lid on a fresh jar, leaving the internal filter material in place. Remove the filter material from the colonized jar & dig up about ? of content, as it will be colonized into a solid mass. Spoon out 2 table spoons full & transfer them to the uncolonized jar, by lifting it's filter up & spooning them in. Replace the filter material on the fresh jar IMMEDIATELY after spooning in the colonized material.
Repeat this same process as many times as you have fresh jars to transfer to. Once done. Screw the fresh jars lids on tight. Cover the outside of the lids of the fresh jars with a double layer of alcohol swabbed coffee filters, or tinfoil & rubber band them down. Shake each fresh jar to spread the colonized material throughout it. Place your fresh jars in a dry, dark, warm place (preferably between 78 & 85 F), and allow them to colonize in peace & quiet. G2G transfer & shaking jars batters the mycelium. It takes it a day or 3 recuperate from that shock. There is no need to shake G2G jars more than once. As, doing so will only slow colonization, rather than speed it up.
The various lid filters you see were experimental.
The very BEST ADVICE I can give anyone who wants to grow mushrooms(beyond cakes)IS: Buy an All American PC, the bigger the better. Build or buy a hepa filter laminar FLOWHOOD.Buy & use BAGS. Buy a Ph test probe. Learn COMPOSTING. LIFE STYLE OF A MUSHROOM SPORE TO A MUSHROOM




*This stuff contains endomycorrhizal fungi :thumbdown:
It would (IMHO) be viewed by Cubensis mycelia as an antagonist & a battle would erupt between the two. Of course, after bong hit 3, I may be talking out my ass.
A mycorrhiza is a symbiotic relationship between a plant and a fungus (actually, usually many fungi) - - the fungus attaches itself to the plants roots and functions as an extended root system for the plant, seeking out water and minerals that the plant can't get to.
This is especially important in the case of minerals, like phosphorus, that don't diffuse very well in water: it's necessary to be right at the source instead of waiting for the mineral to diffuse over to you in the groundwater.
Since a fungus' mycelium is only one cell thick, it can cover the territory in much more detail than the plant's roots can, and work its way into wherever it needs to go. In return, the fungus gets sugars from the plant. A fungus, which has this type of relationship with a plant, is called mycorrhizal.
Fungi form two kinds of mycorrhizae: those that penetrate the cell wall of the plant's root and those that do not. The ones that do not are called ectomycorrhizal; those that do are called endomycorrhizal or, more commonly today, VAM fungi.
Most ectomycorrhizal fungi are macrofungi, basidiomycetes such as boletes or gilled fungi. The mycelium of ectomycorrhizal fungi forms a sheath, or mantle, around the roots of the symbiont plant. From the mantle, a hyphal network called the Hartig net extends into the root, between the cells, usually just a few cells deep. The early research on ectomycorrhizal fungi and the anatomy of the interface between symbionts was done by Robert Hartig, so the Hartig net is named after him.
Most endomycorrhizal fungi are in the order Glomales, and their fruiting bodies are hypogeous, when they are large enough to be seen at all. Many of these fungi have no fruiting body at all, reproducing entirely by spores produced one at a time on the hyphae. The mycelium of endomycorrhizal fungi actually grows into the cells of the symbiont plant, producing highly branched structures (known as an arbuscule, or "little tree") inside the cell wall but outside the plasma membrane.
The plasma membrane of the plant cell becomes wrapped around the arbuscule, providing lots of surface area for the exchange of nutrients between plant and fungus. The arbuscules only last a few days before they are dissolved and digested by the host plant, so they are constantly growing and dissolving in the roots of a plant with this type of mycorrhiza.
Endomycorrhizal fungi also form swollen end cells called vesicles, either between root cells or within the cell wall. These vesicles are thought to be storage locations for fungal food reserves. The term "vesicle" can also be used in a wider sense, for any cell or organ that is inflated by the stuff that it is used to store; but at the moment, it is mostly used in connection with endomycorrhizal fungi.
Because of the vesicles and arbuscules that they form, endomycorrhizae are sometimes called vesicular-arbuscular mycorrhizae, or VA mycorrhizae. Carrying the abbreviation process one step further, the fungi that form VA mycorrhizae are sometimes known as VAM fungi, and this term is more common nowadays than endomycorrhiza. ENDOMYCORRHIZAL FUNGI STUFF CALLED SOIL MOIST




*IF YOU HAVE A PC, this is an easy blend of quasi/compost SYNTHETIC BULK SUBSTRATE, that BEATS WBS alone - HANDS DOWN.
Finely chopped ground aged /leached horse manure & presoaked finely chopped wheat straw, fortified with a small percentage of home ground BRF & some pre/soaked PC?ed WBS, as a delayed nutrient - source, with a little vermiculite added -to increase its moisture retention capacity.
No exacting magic formula.
For instance, a 5 or 10 gallon size tote tub w/lid. Fill halfway with aged chopped (as fine as you can get it) horse manure. About a 20% portion of pre/soaked finely chopped wheat straw (the finer, the better). A couple pounds of home ground BRF. 3 or 4 quarts of pre/soaked PC?ed millet based WBS (PC?ed will not germinate). About a gallon size volume of vermiculite. Just toss it all in & mix well.
When you want to use it, take out however much you intend to use & add spring water until at field capacity (meaning - when you squeeze it - just a few drops of moisture - drip from it). Then PC the prepared mix (@ 15 psi 60 - 70 minutes) in a autoclave, turkey or tinfoil baking bag.
Allow to cool to room temp & spawn ASAP (sooner the better) @ about 15 to 20 % rate with colonized WBS.
Saran wrap top of container, poke some (10 or 15) pinholes in Saran wrap (for gas exchange), then cover container top with aluminum foil applied crumpled & loose over top & bent over edges a few inches (to keep it in darkness - but still allow some gas exchange).
That is a simple inexpensive bulk blend that requires no science, or brain surgery to make. If you can find the ingredients (which isn’t tough, if you are tenacious & look for them). Think Feed & seed store for wheat straw & horse stables for horse poo.
Incubated & 80/85F & high rh, so it will not dehydrate. Once fully colonized, case with pasteurized or PC?ed 50/50 Vermiculite - Coir mix , with sprinkle of finely crushed oyster shell (chicken grit - think feed store) to balance & maintain ph of casing mix.
PC'ed substrate mix is in a BAG & easy to protect.
WBS spawn is in 100% colonized quart jars, or autoclave filter/patch bag.
So - both are clean & good to go.
Use 12 quart / 11.4 liter STERILITE dishpan (or similar container).
($1.69 at Walmart)
Bake a few feet of rolled tinfoil in oven @ 350F - 10 - 15 minutes.
In as clean as possible surrounding conditions (cleaned Lysoled bathroom - G/B, or flow-hood).
Wear dust or surgical mask, cover hair, have clean hands, if using bathroom.
Spray tub with white VINIGAR
Then, spray with hydrogen peroxide (3% H202).
Wipe dry with sterile gauze pad.
This will KILL any contam on it.
Add sterilized tinfoil to tub BOTTOM & SIDES, if light shines through it.(so light doesn’t penetrate sides & bottom & cause bottom pinning - later).
Open Substrate bag & empty into lined container.
Open spawn jars - or bags & mix into substrate.
Pull out a couple feet Saran Wrap & spray with H202 (no need to wipe off).
Cover container TOP with Saran Wrap, H202 side down.
Pinhole Saran Wrap with alc swabbed needle.
Cover Saran Wrap with prepared & crumpled Tinfoil.
Bingo, you have a CLEAN & self-contained substrate - ready to incubate. AGAR TEK HA




*COMMERCIAL MUSHROOM GROWERS USE COMPOST
They do so because it is the BEST & MOST PRODUCTIVE SUBSTRATE
A COMPOST (made just for CUBES) is the ultimate SUBSTRATE.
Psilocybe Cubensis are habitat specific. Meaning, they cannot grow in the wild, unless their habitat provides a suitable environment, along with sufficient natural nutrients. Over the millennia, they have evolved inherent genetic traits best suited for their continuous survival in specific geographic area’s they successfully inhabit.
All fungi feed by absorption of nutrients. Because of the huge range of potential nutrient sources, fungi evolved enzymes suitable for the specific environments in which they are generally found. The range of enzymes, though wide in may species, is not sufficient for survival in all environments.
Psilocybe Cubensis excrete a complex array of genetically predetermined enzymes for digestion. The enzymes are present in multiple forms, based on a single inherent genetic sequence, and include a range of isoenzymes, which arise from different inherent genetic sequences.
Simply stated, Psilocybe Cubensis excrete enzymes into the organic material in which their underground mycelia (root) system naturally grow. Those enzymes degrade nutrients there, into simple soluble forms of sugars and amino acids, which are then easily absorbed into the mycelia network. Resulting in them acquiring all essential elements with which to grow fruit bodies, and spores (seed) by which they propagate their species.
It is common knowledge that most strains of Psilocybe Cubensis flourish in select warm moist habitats worldwide, associated where horses, cattle and water buffalo naturally spread bovine type manure. Consequently, Psilocybe Cubensis developed inherent genetic traits, enabling then to excrete specific enzymes best suited to enable them to specifically dissolve, digest and take up nutrients available from bovine type manure, and/or soil enriched with it.
Therefore, Psilocybe Cubensis own inherent genetic traits attest that bovine type manure alone, or soils enriched with it, is best suited to their natural nutrient needs. Taking that fact, one step further. Bovine type manure, when aerobically composted together with other select fruits, vegetables, grains and straw provides an even more enriched super nutrient source. Moreover, a compost of this type provides an ideal moist subsurface habitat (substrate) that, Psilocybe Cubensis mycelia will colonize in, faster than any other.
Perfect cube compost (took 2 years to develop)
carbon / nitrogen ratio <17:1, nitrogen 2.6%, phosphorus 0.2-05%, potassium 1.5-2.5%, calcium 1.5-2.5%, available boron <2 ppm, available ammonium <10 ppm, soluble salts 3.0-5 OdS/m. COMPOST PC




*Psilocybe Cubensis are habitat specific. Meaning, they cannot grow in the wild, unless their habitat provides a suitable environment, along with sufficient natural nutrients. Over the millennia, they have evolved inherent genetic traits best suited for their continuous survival in specific geographic area's they successfully inhabit.
All fungi feed by absorption of nutrients. Because of the huge range of potential nutrient sources, fungi evolved enzymes suitable for the specific environments in which they are generally found. The range of enzymes, though wide in may species, is not sufficient for survival in all environments.
Psilocybe Cubensis excrete a complex array of genetically predetermined enzymes for digestion. The enzymes are present in multiple forms, based on a single inherent genetic sequence, and include a range of isoenzymes, which arise from different inherent genetic sequences.
Simply stated, Psilocybe Cubensis excrete enzymes into the organic material in which their underground mycelia (root) system naturally grow. Those enzymes degrade nutrients there, into simple soluble forms of sugars and amino acids, which are then easily absorbed into the mycelia network. Resulting in them acquiring all essential elements with which to grow fruit bodies, and spores (seed) by which they propagate their species.
It is common knowledge that most strains of Psilocybe Cubensis flourish in select warm moist habitats worldwide, associated where horses, cattle and water buffalo naturally spread bovine type manure. Consequently, Psilocybe Cubensis developed inherent genetic traits, enabling then to excrete specific enzymes best suited to enable them to specifically dissolve, digest and take up nutrients available from bovine type manure, and/or soil enriched with it.
Therefore, Psilocybe Cubensis own inherent genetic traits attest that bovine type manure alone, or soils highly enriched with it, is best suited to their nutrient needs, in the wild.
Taking that fact, one step further. Aged leached dry bovine type manure, when aerobically composted together with a small percent of other select fruits, vegetables, grains and straw provides an even more enriched super nutrient source for cultivation of Psilocybe Cubensis . Moreover, a compost of this type provides an ideal moist subsurface habitat (substrate) that, Psilocybe Cubensis mycelia will colonize faster than any other. PC




*Most bagged shitz isn’t good, except in the garden.
The bulk of that cow manure comes from feedlots. It has a very high salt content (feed lot cattle are fed excess salt at that time - so they hold more water weight when sold). Most feedlots spray manure with insecticide - fungicide to keep down flies, fungus & such.
Then, if they call the shitz COMPOSTED.......the shitz is NOT COMPOSTED like true compost is, because it is simply piled to rot & dry without any turning - or air - because actual true composting COSTS MONEY.
Then, if anything is added to the shitz it is most often-mixed FOREST PRODUCTS, meaning wood pulp, shavings, sawdust, shredded bark & whatever else fits in the category of forest products.
Good mushroom compost must be impart made of straw. No straw is used, because it COST MONEY & would REQUIRE ACTUAL COMPOSTING & watering, turning to break it down.
In effect, the stuff in the 98-cent bags, or even the stuff in the $5 bags is the wrong shitz, with the wrong crap in it, plus other wrong stuff added & all of it is treated in the wrong way.... for shroom growing.
Bear in mind, there are some pretty expert cultivators on board. If any bagged shitz worked good, fine or great, it would be the talk of the board, every one would use it & there would not be on board vendors selling high dollar horse/poo or compost suited for cultivation. Because it would not be worthwhile, as the bagged shitz is so CHEAP. So cheap-bagged shitz, is just that & suited for garden use -  Most cow manure sold in bags - comes from feedlots. At feedlots - they feed steers a lot of excess salt, so they hold water weight. that salt is excreted in both the manure & urine.
They also spray the manure with insecticides (to keep the flies & bugs down)& fungicides to keep down fungus on the manure.
Bagged manure is NOT COMPOSTED. It is not turned & simply left to dry & ROT.
In other words, it seldom performs well. Proof of that is if it did perform - well. You would not see vendors selling h/poo, compost & other substrates for fairly high dollar prices.
No one would buy it - if $0.99 cent to $1.99 Lowes, Home Depot, Kmart 50 pound bullshit manure bags worked - worth a darn.  ONLY  STORE BOUGHT MANURE BASED COMPOST




*IMHO....& observations, Myc can change from one to the other, as it needs to. If all else is equal - excluding the nutes?
Usually this happens because of a change in what it is colonizing.
Myc sort of develops BIG TEETH & WALKING SHOES (rhizo) to travel through & digest something tougher (note myc usually turns rhizo - when it hits hard straw, or tough dung clump,) or hits non/nute container wall & tries to travel up it.
At the same time, if it is colonizing something soft & easy to digest & does not have to fight its way through it, it turns linear (LITTLE TEETH). Because it doesn’t need BIG RHIZO TEETH & WALKING SHOES to do so.
You can sometimes witness same thing inside a colonizing wbs/rye glass jar. Often, linear myc colonizes up to the inside glass (no nutes), then turns rhizo (develops big teeth & walking shoes)& travels along the internal glass face. MYCELIUM

*Shroom myc translocates moisture from a substrate & casing cover to form fruit bodies (Fruit bodies obtain 54-83% of their water from the substrate and 17-46% from the casing layer (Kalberer, 1985)).
Sounds like yours lacked sufficient moisture to form large fruit bodies. Once you have a pinset, there isn't anything you can do - to cure that - as caps have formed -&- will open.
Once you have harvested the first flush, you might think about adding a thicker casing cover, water the casing well, supply plenty of humidity & you may get larger fruits - out of your second flush, if plenty of nutrients remain in the substrate.  MUSHROOM MYCELIUM

*Survival of the fittest is a natural law of evolution throughout all time. Consequently, as fungi, plants & animals evolved they either developed ways or means to cleanse themselves of any excess things, wastes or matter that if allowed to accumulate in excess within it that would eventually create toxicity, sickness, inability to function, procreate and/or death. If not, the species did not survive. So, I gather if a body of growing mycelium ingests excess of anything that may become toxic enough (if allowed to accumulate) to eventually harm, disable or kill it, if it does not somehow rid itself of that excess (whatever it is). MUSHROOMS

*IMHO, nutrient composition have much to do with rhizo, or cottony type myc growth & one can change from the other & visa versa. I have witnessed that many times.
Rhizo is myc with terrain traveling & combat gear on & big teeth to gnaw with.
Cotton type is able to digest nutes as is.
Note, cotton type often turns rhizo at nutes bare container sides & climbs wall.
Cotton type will most often turn rhizo when it contacts hard dung clump, or tough straw. It does so, to get into it with big teeth.  TYPES OF MYCELIUM

*It's not bad, if you mix in several bales of wheat straw (ran through a gas powered shredder- first), lots of spent brewery grain, vegetable/fruit waste, soy or cotton seed meal, gypsum, water & compost the hell out of it, turning it every so often for about 6 weeks or more in a huge pile in the summer time, when it is warm out.
Other than that..... it steer/cow shit sucks IMHO. COMPOSTING

*It is genetically designed to die. It is BORN from a spore, if fortunate, it will run it’s life cycle & produce more spores. Thus, life goes on.
For long-term preservation of a culture, you have it backwards. Remove nutrients, air & store in sterile water. That will suspend the life cycle for years. Add warmth, air & nutrients and it will reanimate & grow again. MYCELIUM LIFESPAN

*Cubes like N, but not too much: Ratio should be about......
carbon / nitrogen ratio <17:1, nitrogen 2.6%, phosphorus 0.2-05%, potassium 1.5-2.5%, calcium 1.5-2.5%, available boron <2 ppm, available ammonium <10 ppm, soluble salts 3.0-5 OdS/m. Ps.C

*Myc is sort of like a female thing. Treat it right, be good to it, and give it what it needs. (Myc - FAE, high humidity, 12/12 light cycle) and when it's ready, it will PIN. Now, females, that is a whole other subject.(Treat her right, be good to her, give her what she needs) And you might, just MIGHT.......get laid. MYCELIUM

*Nutrients without enough moisture cause small shrooms. Moisture without adequate nutrients causes small shrooms. SMALL MUSHROOMS

*Strands(like string)are rhizo type growth, a good thing. MYCELIUM

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:06 PM)

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467271 - 05/31/08 12:47 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Done

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:07 PM)

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Invisibleblood4blood
Calmer Than You Are


Registered: 04/25/07
Posts: 6,029
Loc: The Valley
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467275 - 05/31/08 12:48 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

anybody who can do a basic search function can find all of this stuff.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: blood4blood]
    #8467281 - 05/31/08 12:49 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Yeah I know...I honestly was just bored.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467298 - 05/31/08 12:53 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Yes

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:07 PM)

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467301 - 05/31/08 12:55 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

These are being deleted at the end of the week so...get it while you can. I'll have it removed by Thursday.....

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OfflinePrometheus82
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467322 - 05/31/08 01:01 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

This is awsome. I wont have to do a search. The computers are too slow here at work.

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InvisibleRoadkillM
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467399 - 05/31/08 01:30 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

dumbfounded1600 said:

These are being deleted at the end of the week so...get it while you can. I'll have it removed by Thursday.....





please don't delete...

you posted some really great threads that just about cover everything...

loaded full of great info on mycology.


nice job compiling everything.

:smile:



tc


--------------------
Laterz, Road

Who the hell you callin crazy?
You wouldn't know what crazy was if Charles Manson was eating froot loops on your front porch!


Brainiac said:
PM the names with on there names, that means they have mushrooms for sale.


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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Roadkill]
    #8467401 - 05/31/08 01:31 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

You should see RogerRabbits notes Roadkill...I got them all...over all took about 3months day and night collecting them...I just need to dispute the outdated shit because it started from 03 to 08

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OfflineMycoAu
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467434 - 05/31/08 01:44 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

So why not make a single document compiling the information. This way you can skip the repetition of covering the same material over in each new document.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: MycoAu]
    #8467438 - 05/31/08 01:45 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

you mean like a site to upload it all too? How do I do that?

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Offlineunretarded
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467439 - 05/31/08 01:46 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Good job!!!!:thumbup:
It would help to give a little paragraph at the top of the first post to exsplain exactly what this post is......Its a little disorientating untill you grasp what this post actually is.....some might get  lost before they figure out why this post is soo good.:shrug:


--------------------
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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: unretarded]
    #8467782 - 05/31/08 03:38 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Done...also...i'm gonna upload RR's today or tomorrow if it's ok with the admins

PLEASE DON'T GIVE RATINGS..THIS IS SOMETHING I WANT TO DO...NOT TO GET FAMOUS FOR.

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8467820 - 05/31/08 03:51 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

This is awesome,many of Agar's tek's are book marked in my external hard drive for future reference,he was always informative and innovative,I have to agree.Please don't delete this,I want to mark this topic and keep it hand for later use.I don't know why I cant click the links them self but I will copy and paste if I have to

Nice work,I wish I was so productive when I got bored:thumbup:

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OfflineJuke Adro
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: MycoAu]
    #8468182 - 05/31/08 05:59 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

not bad....took a while to scroll and read but il be back :wink:


--------------------
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OfflinePrometheus82
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Juke Adro]
    #8468446 - 05/31/08 07:30 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Okay so I finished reading and I foud ALOT of VERY usefull info. It goes into alot of detail about h/poo pasturising. Substrates and how they function. ***** 5 stars on this post. And I also agree. You shouldn't delete it. It's alot of work to look this stuff up.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Prometheus82]
    #8468455 - 05/31/08 07:36 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

I'm posting RR's Notes now.

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8468511 - 05/31/08 07:56 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

This will take a while to devour. Cheers mate.

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: wisp]
    #8468663 - 05/31/08 08:44 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

:cool:

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Brainiac]
    #8469625 - 06/01/08 01:07 AM (15 years, 9 months ago)

:eek::eek::eek:

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8470446 - 06/01/08 09:51 AM (15 years, 9 months ago)

RIP Agar.

I remember using this icon many times.


--------------------
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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Premedman1]
    #8470457 - 06/01/08 09:53 AM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Premedman1 said:
RIP Agar.

I remember using this icon many times.




haha yeah ... one of the dudes that sounded like he actually knew what he was talking about

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OfflineTom A Toes
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8470590 - 06/01/08 10:48 AM (15 years, 9 months ago)

^Where is he? haven't seen him for longtime...
Hope not really gone!

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: MycoAu]
    #8471153 - 06/01/08 01:48 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

WHAT THE

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:09 PM)

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: MycoAu]
    #8471161 - 06/01/08 01:49 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

BOOOOOOOOOM

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:09 PM)

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Invisiblelegallyhomeless
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8471190 - 06/01/08 01:55 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

your so lame its not even funny. so much for reading these 2 threads stoned tonight


--------------------
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OfflineTom A Toes
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8471291 - 06/01/08 02:20 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

dumbfounded1600 said:
THIS ONE IS STAYING BUT RR'S IS BEING SHUT DOWN




Why is that?

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Roadkill]
    #8471302 - 06/01/08 02:23 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Roadkill said:
Quote:

dumbfounded1600 said:

These are being deleted at the end of the week so...get it while you can. I'll have it removed by Thursday.....





please don't delete...

you posted some really great threads that just about cover everything...

loaded full of great info on mycology.


nice job compiling everything.

:smile:



tc




@dumbfounded1600: Way to kill a buzz...Who do you think you are? Walmart posting a sale on knowledge? This is really lame, good thing I saved all of it. Gonna repost as soon as these are locked by the mods. :wink: Nice try though.


--------------------
If y0u want s0meting gr0wn right, y0u g0tta gr0w it y0urself!!!

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Neobean]
    #8471309 - 06/01/08 02:25 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

BOOBA

Edited by dumbfounded1600 (06/01/08 05:10 PM)

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OfflineRogerRabbitM
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8471782 - 06/01/08 05:09 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Why would the mods want to lock or delete either thread? If there's something wrong let me know. None of us can read it all. I only get about 1/2 an hour per day here lately, so only have time to scan the threads, and maybe make a post or two.
RR


--------------------
Download Let's Grow Mushrooms



semper in excretia sumus solim profundum variat

"I've never had a failed experiment.  I've only discovered 10,000 methods which do not work."
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OfflineNeobean
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #8471787 - 06/01/08 05:10 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Why would the mods want to lock or delete either thread?  If there's something wrong let me know.  None of us can read it all.  I only get about 1/2 an hour per day here lately, so only have time to scan the threads, and maybe make a post or two.
RR




RR: Because he took the post down today...said it was a limited time thing :wink:


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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Neobean]
    #8471807 - 06/01/08 05:21 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Ratings are a Negative but
Positive Replys
Would Be Nice

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8476296 - 06/02/08 07:19 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Does anyone have that thread where RR totally dissed FastFred

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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8476357 - 06/02/08 07:31 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

dumbfounded1600 said:
Does anyone have that thread where RR totally dissed FastFred




What does that have to do with mushroom cultivation?

Perhaps I should get a quote list of all the horribly racist and vial things you've said on this forum? That should make for an interesting read.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: shroober]
    #8476372 - 06/02/08 07:34 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

nah it's a good discussion about potency. it's mushroom cultivation thread.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: MycoAu]
    #8489094 - 06/05/08 04:24 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

bump .. just for people to read

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: MycoAu]
    #8524261 - 06/14/08 04:55 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Agars

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OfflineRogerRabbitM
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8524378 - 06/14/08 05:42 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)
Log in to view attachment

In .pdf format.  Page 1.
RR


--------------------
Download Let's Grow Mushrooms



semper in excretia sumus solim profundum variat

"I've never had a failed experiment.  I've only discovered 10,000 methods which do not work."
Thomas Edison

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OfflineJuke Adro
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #8524384 - 06/14/08 05:45 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

ha ha that's great :wink: thanks


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OfflineRogerRabbitM
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #8524386 - 06/14/08 05:45 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)
Log in to view attachment

.pdf page 2
RR


--------------------
Download Let's Grow Mushrooms



semper in excretia sumus solim profundum variat

"I've never had a failed experiment.  I've only discovered 10,000 methods which do not work."
Thomas Edison

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #8524549 - 06/14/08 06:56 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Thanks RR. I have comcast and my internet shuts off and on all the fucking time at night.

It would be nice to have some positive feedback like a thank you or you've never grown before but thanks anyways or anything like that. :laugh:

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OfflineNeobean
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8524629 - 06/14/08 07:23 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

dumbfounded1600 said:
Thanks RR. I have comcast and my internet shuts off and on all the fucking time at night.

It would be nice to have some positive feedback like a thank you or you've never grown before but thanks anyways or anything like that. :laugh:




How many times does each member have to thank you for you to stop bumping these threads? :confused:


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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Neobean]
    #8524747 - 06/14/08 08:08 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

I know it was just asked up above...What did happen to agar? That guy really knew his stuff. I enjoyed reading his posts.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Neobean]
    #8524756 - 06/14/08 08:10 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Neobean said:
Quote:

dumbfounded1600 said:
Thanks RR. I have comcast and my internet shuts off and on all the fucking time at night.

It would be nice to have some positive feedback like a thank you or you've never grown before but thanks anyways or anything like that. :laugh:




How many times does each member have to thank you for you to stop bumping these threads? :confused:




Ok, I'll stop doing that.

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Invisibledumbfounded1600
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: Jrsxt]
    #8524759 - 06/14/08 08:11 PM (15 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Jrsxt said:
I know it was just asked up above...What did happen to agar? That guy really knew his stuff. I enjoyed reading his posts.




http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7815516#7815516

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OfflineHippieChick
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #8822132 - 08/24/08 08:46 PM (15 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

Jrsxt said:
I know it was just asked up above...What did happen to agar? That guy really knew his stuff. I enjoyed reading his pFrom: agar

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes , he really did know his stuff , and his willingness to share his knowledge with all of us made him a very special person:thumbup:

He was a very generous person , not only with his knowledge , but also with all his neat little gadgets and inventions. I know I'm not the only one here who he sent things to to try out . He was one of my mentors who went on to become a very good friend :heart:. Not only offering advice in Mycology , but on life in general , and all of it was very valuable and insightful and helped me out during rough times:grin:

You're not supposed to post PM's , but I received this one from Agar on 11/2/06 , almost 2 years ago . We kept in touch . but I haven't heard from him in a little over a year now




LOL, child...... 

I have terminal pancreatic cancer.

I am in remission, so each day forward, GOD grants me, is a blessing.

I might squeeze a half dozen more flushes out of this old substrate, YET.

You take care,





Unfortunately , pancreatic cancer is one of , if not , the most deadliest cancers of all . People diagnosed with it usually only survive 3-6 months , and it robs us of loved ones at a rate of 95 out of 100 sufferers . And agar was very , very loved:heart::heart::heart::heart: and will be very , very missed:(

To those of us who knew him and were able to discuss mycology with him , first hand , we should consider ourselves very lucky . Not only were we able to learn so much from him , but we were able to enjoy his wit and charm . People like agar don't come around every day , unfortunately .

I think we should remember him in our prayers and thank God we had a chance to enjoy his company .

Good Bye Agar , I love you:heart:

Peace,Love and Happiness
:heart: Your friend , Hippie Chick :mushroom2:

Edited by HippieChick (08/25/08 07:07 PM)

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InvisibleBlutjager
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: HippieChick]
    #8826040 - 08/25/08 05:11 PM (15 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

HippieChick said:
Quote:

Jrsxt said:
I know it was just asked up above...What did happen to agar? That guy really knew his stuff. I enjoyed reading his pFrom: agar

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes , he really did know his stuff , and his willingness to share his knowledge with all of us made him a very special person:thumbup:

He was a very generous person , not only with his knowledge , but also with all his neat little gadgets and inventions. I know I'm not the only one here who he sent things to to try out . He was one of my mentors who went on to become a very good friend :heart:. Not only offering advice in Mycology , but on life in general , and all of it was very valuable and insightful and helped me out during rough times:grin:

You're not supposed to post PM's , but I received this one from Agar on 11/2/06 , almost 2 years ago . We kept in touch . but I haven't heard from him in a little over a year now




LOL, child...... 

I have terminal pancreatic cancer.

I am in remission, so each day forward, GOD grants me, is a blessing.

I might squeeze a half dozen more flushes out of this old substrate, YET.

You take care,





Unfortunately , pancreatic cancer is one of , if not , the most deadly cancers of all . People diagnosed with it usually only survive 3-6 months , and it robs us of loved ones at a rate of 95 out of 100 sufferers . And agar was very , very loved:heart::heart::heart::heart: and will be very , very missed:(

To those of us who knew him and were able to discuss mycology with him , first hand , we should consider ourselves very lucky . Not only were we able to learn so much from him , but we were able to enjoy his wit and charm . People like agar don't come around every day , unfortunately .

I think we should remember him in our prayers and thank God we had a chance to enjoy his company .

Good Bye Agar , I love you:heart:

Peace,Love and Happiness
:heart: Your friend , Hippie Chick :mushroom2:




Very well said HippieChick,Agar was truly an asset to this community and I know I'm not only speaking for myself when I say he is VERY missed around here

R.I.P Agar,you are missed and I hope you are in a much better place where your flushes never ever end !!

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Re: Dedicated To Agar 'Mushroom Cultivation' AND Links/Grow Logs/Other [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #9363594 - 12/04/08 03:16 AM (15 years, 3 months ago)

Should this not be stickied?

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InvisibleAffenicum
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Re: Dedicated To Agar 'Mushroom Cultivation' AND Links/Grow Logs/Other [Re: ReverseOsmosis]
    #10150833 - 04/12/09 06:45 AM (14 years, 11 months ago)

Great Info!  Thanks!


--------------------
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Offline420shroom138
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Re: Any Main Threads by SigTango & Agar. All Mushroom Cultivation Notes by Agar [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #13204757 - 09/16/10 02:29 PM (13 years, 6 months ago)

Thanx!!!


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OfflineRogerRabbitM
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Re: Dedicated To Agar 'Mushroom Cultivation' AND Links/Grow Logs/Other [Re: dumbfounded1600]
    #13205345 - 09/16/10 04:41 PM (13 years, 6 months ago)

Quote:

420shroom138 said:
Thanx!!!




Bumping a long-dead thread is not an appropriate way to boost your post count.
RR





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