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Invisibleagar
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CASING
    #3993043 - 03/31/05 01:20 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)



Casing

Casing is the top-dressing applied to the spawn-run substrate on which the mushrooms eventually form.

Casing should be pasteurized to eliminate any insects and pathogens it may be carrying. Casing act's as a water reservoir and a place where rhizomorphs form.

Rhizomorphs look like upright stub strings and form when the very fine mycelium fuses together.

Mushroom primordia, or pins form out of rhizomorphs, so without rhizomorphs there will be no mushrooms.

It is important that the casing be distributed to a uniform depth over the surface of the substrate. Doing so allows the mycelium to move into and through the casing at the same rate and, ultimately, for mushrooms to develop at the same time.

Casing should be able to hold optimal moisture (75%), since moisture is essential for the development of large firm mushrooms.


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OfflineTwister
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Re: CASING [Re: agar]
    #3993052 - 03/31/05 01:23 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

Nice little write up. Hopefully it will save the forum from a few newb questions.


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Offlinescarymidgets
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Re: CASING [Re: Twister]
    #3993403 - 03/31/05 02:44 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

fo real agars post are always good


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PLs People this a drug info site some people may be on drugs. /flameing might make you feel smart but makes you look dumb.


cant stop me if i eat your soul.


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Offlinemushroommark
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Re: CASING [Re: scarymidgets]
    #3993499 - 03/31/05 03:13 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

Agar, I've slowly been piecing together all of your posts, and the information that specifically pertains to me. 

Some of the best and most informative info out.  Growing is starting to make more and more sense everyday.  This is going to go into the casing section of my "Agar Droppings".  Basic info, but very clear, decipherable and readable.

A good reminder anytime I'm thinking about casing until this "art form" :wink: becomes second nature.

:thumbup:


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Invisibleagar
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Re: CASING [Re: mushroommark]
    #3993605 - 03/31/05 04:17 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

Just learning what is "for real" & what is not - is a pain in the ass.

But, once you get there & have the means. Myco/Life gets productive.

Pic above doesn't look like much.
Unless - you know what will result from it.


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Invisiblepoboy
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Re: CASING *DELETED* [Re: agar]
    #3993885 - 03/31/05 08:20 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

Post deleted by poboy

Reason for deletion: d



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Burn the land and boil the sea but you can't take the sky from me.


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Offlinepsilocyben
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Re: CASING [Re: poboy]
    #3994034 - 03/31/05 09:57 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

*raises hand-
"an even pinset"


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Edited by psilocyben (03/31/05 10:09 AM)


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OfflineIGnosticAbhorI
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Re: CASING [Re: psilocyben]
    #3994074 - 03/31/05 10:06 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

Hey Agar...

Just curious, what do you usually use as a casing layer?...

I know that your perferred grain mix is 50%wbs,45%ryeand 5%canola seed.....;), and of course h/poo ,straw ect ect...

But what are you sub. depths and what do you like as a casing depth per sub. level?

Probably a tough Q,considering myc. is sometimes more agressive at times, but still, it's a Q i'd like to hear Your opinion...

-Gnostic


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Invisibleagar
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Re: CASING [Re: IGnosticAbhorI]
    #3995751 - 03/31/05 04:25 PM (12 years, 8 months ago)

SUBSTRATE DEPTH (tray cultivation, not edibles))

MINIMUM 2.5 inches MAXIMUM 4 inches.

CASING COVER

Rule of thumb is 1/4 of substrate depth. But, with thin substrates, a little more is better, as it provides a larger capacity moisture reservoir.

Quick easy casing cover is 50/50 verm/coir (no PH adjustment required). But, that mix is prone to overlay, as coir will colonize. So, you MUST initiate PINNING at the RIGHT moment.

Best combo I have found (so far) is 33.3 % each, verm, coir & peat. Peat must be PH adjusted first.

(WRITTEN IN ANOTHER LIFE)
Casing material pH & why it is important.

"pH", is a measure to describe the acidity of a medium. pH 7 is neutral; higher means alkaline, lower acidic.

Peat is a major constituent of preferred casing mixes. The pH of peat is variable, dependent on the source it came from. Meaning, the pH of peat differs from various sources.

The preferred pH range of a casing mixture is 6.5 to 8. 7.5 is optimal. Peat is acidic. Consequently, to achieve an optimal pH range of a casing mix, the pH of the casing mixture must be adjusted accordingly (within the range of 6.5 to 8).

The pH of the casing must be within certain limits to support strong mycelial growth. An overly acidic or alkaline casing mixture will depress mycelial growth and supports unwanted competitors.

It is generally easier to make casing materials more alkaline (i.e., increasing the pH) than it is to make them more acid (i.e., reducing the pH).

A movement of 0.5 is easy but, because the pH scale is logarithmic, a movement on the order of, 2.0 points becomes more difficult because there is a factor of 10x between each full point, so pH 5.0 is actually 100 times more acid than pH 7.0.

There are several common types of lime available for use, though care should be exercised with all of the products. Lime is caustic and a skin and eye irritant and can be dangerous if misused. If you choose to use such products, carefully read and follow all manufacturer directions exactly. The major types of lime products include:

Hydrated Lime: fast acting, but not long lasting. It is very effective to produce a fast change in pH level. It is also the "strongest" form of lime generally available, and you must follow all manufacturer precautions, since your skin and eyes can be easily irritated or burned if the product is misused.

Ground Limestone: a naturally occurring type of limestone that has been ground to a fine powder. How quickly it will act to modify pH and how long it will persist depends on how finely it was ground.

Generally, ground limestone is weaker than hydrated lime, needing about 30% more to raise the pH by the same amount. It has the advantage, however, of usually being significantly cheaper than the hydrated lime, and usually works more slowly and lasts much longer.

Mixed Lime: usually sold under a brand name. Most brands contain a variety of particle sizes to provide some immediate benefits, as well as a longer persistence. (this is often referred to as "time released" lime).

pH gradually falls to less than optimal by the end of cropping due to acids secreted by the mushroom mycelium. Consequently, a long lasting buffering agent is preferable.

If you wish to achieve optimal results, when adjusting pH? It is highly advisable to use litmus strips (with color chart), or acquire a pH test probe (available at most garden supply stores, under $20) to accurately test, and adjust the pH of your casing mix, prior to application.

Doing all other cultivation steps properly. Then, applying a casing mixture outside the proper pH range, most often creates poor cropping results.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


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OfflineIGnosticAbhorI
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Re: CASING [Re: agar]
    #3995787 - 03/31/05 04:33 PM (12 years, 8 months ago)

:thumbup:

I've read that sooooo many times :smirk:

Hey Agar, How do you test the Ph? PH tester kits ? lol?

Is it the same as the kind you get from pool stores? :smirk:

I'd like to try peat out but i'm not real good at changing Ph....obvisouly lol

Thankx

-Gnostic


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Invisibleagar
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Re: CASING [Re: IGnosticAbhorI]
    #3995818 - 03/31/05 04:40 PM (12 years, 8 months ago)

PH PROBE

Quick & effective

You can find cheap & effective ones at garden supply section of major stores under $20. You can find Pro grade models on eBay under $60.

Moisture meters are HANDY - TOO


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Offlinehyphae
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Re: CASING [Re: agar]
    #3996404 - 03/31/05 06:51 PM (12 years, 8 months ago)

Haven't read the whole thread but if it's been said I'll reiterate. Even pinsets are where it's at :wink: and the more level your substrate is as well as the evenness of the casing layers thickness the better chances for that near perfect pinset. pH testing is not a must if you follow suggested amounts (of buffers) as many of us have done the work for you, so you don't have too. GL guys


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Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"


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Offlinemushroommark
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Re: CASING [Re: agar]
    #3996410 - 03/31/05 06:51 PM (12 years, 8 months ago)

*bookmarked* :wink:

Moisture meter....I have to look into that one.  Is it as straight forward as I hope? Just probe poo or casing at field capacity and it will tell  you 75% (or whatever moisture content you have...75% being OPTIMUM)?

This seems like an excellent way for newbies to get around moisture content problems of casing and substrates...

Thanks agar.

mark


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Offlinehyphae
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Re: CASING [Re: mushroommark]
    #3996500 - 03/31/05 07:04 PM (12 years, 8 months ago)

IMHO the best way for a newbie to learn water delivery is to learn what near saturation actually is and how it looks.
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
This is the only truely accurate measurement IME.


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Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"


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Offlinemushroommark
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Re: CASING [Re: hyphae]
    #3997890 - 04/01/05 12:02 AM (12 years, 8 months ago)

Yeah, I understand... It really comes down to being one of those things that there is no substitute for learned experience.


Thanks


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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics >> Mushroom Cultivation

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