Rye bitches RYE !!!!!!!!!!!!

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Magash
Da Bud Guru

Registered: 07/25/02
Posts: 5,876
Loc: Near Hilo

Rye bitches RYE !!!!!!!!!!!!

22
#4576865 - 08/24/05 10:00 PM (20 years, 10 months ago)

Making the syringes.

1. Well first I fill up a half pint jar with filtered water.
2. Then I like to add 2 or three drops of jet dry to the water (keeps spores from clumping and sticking to the sides of the syringe) and fill the syringes.
3. I put the syringes into a quart jar and put them in the pc so the needle tip faces up. (if they don?t face up the water will shoot out when it boils.
4. I wrap 1 shot glass for each syringe in foil, put them in a quart jar and put them in the pc too.
5. I pc at 15psi for an hour.
6. When it?s all still hot as hell I load it all into a glove box that has had the living shit sprayed out of it with Lysol the night before. Spore prints to be used go in too.
7. This part is just a me thing but when it cools I unwrap and use one shot glass for each syringe. Flake off the print into the shot glass the amount of spores your going to use, shoot in the water from one of the syringes and suck it back up with the spores. The amount of spores used is up to you cause at this point I go overboard again.

I know there is a lot of steps in this and it?s a lot of overkill but it does leave little room for contams.

Prepping the grain and jars.

1. First thing I do is put one cup of rye in each jar.

2. Put in enough water for the soaking.

I like to soak for 24 hrs. Notice the difference in the color of the water after 24 hrs.

Bacteria spores have started to germinate.

This is the reason we soak the grain. Many believe that this is where water is added but this is not true. We are germinating the bacteria endo spores because they can survive a PC if we don?t.

3. I pour out the water and fill and shake and pour that out. Put in a pot and the water is ready to simmer for 45 min. During the simmer is when the water is added to the grain

4. Simmer the grain and then rinse with water. I like to pour 6 gallons threw the grain. (no reason for 6 it?s just a me thing) The grain is ready to be put into jars and PCd.

5. Put 2 hole?s in the jar lids. One is a breather and one is for the syringe needle.

Put a piece of tyvek over the top add the ring and some foil and your ready to PC.

Be sure to leave room in the jars to shake the grain

6. Load the PC

and pc for 1 hour at 15 psi. Here is a finished jar.

Now your ready for the next step.

Incubator set up.

1. First thing get your bottom tub and put in your heater. I also add a water pump to mix the water that way it heats up much more evenly but it isn?t a necessary item. I got the tape from a boat shop and it has been working for some time. Good stuff for underwater.

2. Next put something (I used tall half pints) in each corner of the tub. This will keep the heater and pump safe from being smashed if I put in to many jars or do something stupid.

3. Now be sure to set the heater before you put on the top tub. I attach the top tub with zip ties cause the top tub will want to float.

4. Add the water. I like to add as much water as I can before it starts to spill out.

5. If you use the heaters with the external controls set them now to get ready for the jars. Mine use a dial and a sensor that gives the temp inside the chamber rather then the water. It also has a metal bulb rather then a glass one.

6. Finished

Inoculation

1. First get your work area ready.

2. One of the reasons I like tyvek is cause you can write on it.

3. I like to heat the needle tip then cool it with a alcohol wipe.

4. Inoculate the grain. I like to use 2.5 cc per quart.

5. I like to cover the inoculation hole with a band-aid. I like em cause they come sterile.

6. Shake up the jars real good and put em in a 82 F ? 27.7C to 86F ? 30C incubator.

7. I like to shake the jars again when they are about 25% colonized then once more at about 50% to 75% done.

The waiting game.

1. This is the hard part, the waiting game. Here is a jar 3 ? days after being shot up.

Few days later

The first part of the waiting game is over time to get the casing mix together.

1. Well it?s been exactly 9 days and the jars are done.

Time to get the casing supplies.
2. I like coco coir and verm mix. Be sure you get coir and not fiber. Coir is on the left and fiber is on the right.

Coir in the package.

Verm can be found all over the place and looks like this.

3. Add water to the coir as the directions say. Here is a brick.

Here is one with 4 quarts of water added.

4. Prepare your verm. I just put it in a jar and fill it let it soak,

drain then add to a pot.
5. Now mix (I used 2 parts coir to 1 part verm). Here it is when mixed.

6. Put the mix into jars (I just use the grain jars) and pc for 1 ? hrs at 15 psi. (Once again just something I do)

Making the casing.

1. I like to pc everything. I pc the casing layer, the casing containers, the foil that goes over the top, and the spoons and forks I use to do the work.
2. I like to do the work of putting the casing together in a walk in closest that I have. I spray the shit out of the air with oust and wait a few minutes then start the work. (With a face mask)
3. I pour a little (about a half inch) of the casing layer into the container.
4. Now scoop the myc out of your jar and put it in the container on top of the bottom casing layer that you put in. Once you have the amount of colonized substrate (these casings will be 1 quart each) that you want to use even it out so it?s nice and flat on top.
5. Now add the top casing layer. (In this case ? to ? inch of casing layer) A good rule of thumb is a top casing layer ? as thick as the substrate layer.
6. Now cover (I like to use foil) and put into the incubator.

Usually this last 4 to 7 days. A finished casing should look a little like this

(I suggest covering the sides of clear containers to prevent side pinning. These will be left uncovered for pictures used in this post)

Time to put the casings in the chamber.

1. When the myc starts to break the casing surface is when I like to put them in the chamber

. Lots of people like to patch at this time. Myself I?ve never been one for patching so in the chamber they go.
2. I like to use the tent style chamber that uses the cool mist running all the time and a ultrasonic that comes on every few hours for so many minutes.
3. This is a Martha Stewart closet and hose set up.
This is a Martha Stewart closet and hose set up.

in the box

I use the ultrasonic and cool mist. Very firm believer in air exchange.

In the electrical Dept of the hardware store I find these.

and on the ultrasonic

Now on the back of the closet I cut the holes for the hose fittings and put tape over them and cut holes threw the tape for the fittings. The reason for the tape is to give the closet plastic a little extra strength when holding the hose weight.

The outlet for the ultrasonic goes above the cool mist outlet that way the mist from the ultrasonic drops into the air stream of the cool mist and mixes better.

4. Now that the casings are in the chamber it?s time to wait for pinning.
5. If the coir starts to get a little lighter in color it may be starting to get dry. Now is a good time to mist them with some sterile water, it?s safe to mist up to the point of pinning.

Well it's been a week and pinning has started.

A few days later

Well some of the veils are starting to tear

so it'a time to think about harvesting and taking prints

1. Harvesting is easy. Just be sure to remove the whole shroom and leave none behind to rot on the casing.
2. Cover the spots that show cause of the picked shrooms with casing material and spray it down real good with the water H202 mix.
3. If you dunk your casings now would be the time.

Now I suggest you take your own prints to use

Well this is how I like to do it. I like to get my foil ready like this

That way when the print is done you have these flaps to fold over.

I then get a half pint jar (wide mouth) and prepare it like this. I ditch the disk and silicone in a tyvek disk.

This will allow the cap to dry a little as sits in the jar. (Which causes more spores to drop and prevents the cap from rotting. Will also allow the prints to dry once the mushroom cap is removed.)

Next put in the foil and cover with the lid.

Put some foil on top and pc for one hour at 15 psi.

Now uncover and wipe off and your little print chamber is ready.

Now take the jar to your mushroom chamber and loosen the top but don?t remove it.

I like to put a pin in each of the mushroom caps I?m going to print.

Cut the shroom just below the cap and put it on the foil in the jar as fast as you can. Easy to do since the jar lid is loose.

Put it in a glovebox or where you like to do your work.

In 24 hrs open up and take out the cap by the pin (now we know what the pin is for) and put the cap back on. Let it sit for 24 hrs again to let the spores dry.

Once dry fold up foil and store in a cool dry place

I hate to clean my print foil with alcohol.

--------------------
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