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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29608459 -

Hello, in some recipes for the casing I see one of the ingredients is pickling lime, which is calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)₂), or calcium carbonate (CaCO₃).
From what I understand those are used to increase the pH of the casing to a pH of around 7.5/8.

I have found some "quicklime" which is calcium oxide (CaO) which says it's soluble in water 12%.

By doing a quick research I understood that when combined with water it becomes calcium hydroxide, have any of you ever used it?

Also do you adjust the pH of the substrate too?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Muffa]
    #29608489 -

Muffa said:
Hello, in some recipes for the casing I see one of the ingredients is pickling lime, which is calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)₂), or calcium carbonate (CaCO₃).
From what I understand those are used to increase the pH of the casing to a pH of around 7.5/8.

I have found some "quicklime" which is calcium oxide (CaO) which says it's soluble in water 12%.

By doing a quick research I understood that when combined with water it becomes calcium hydroxide, have any of you ever used it?

Also do you adjust the pH of the substrate too?


It's probably best to avoid the quicklime. It's highly reactive and not worth the risk when there are other options.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: strawboy]
    #29608668 -

I grow cannabis as well, so I use calcium carbonate in my casings, perfect ph buffer and oyster shell flour is cheap.  I just replaced a bag (50lbs) that lasted 8-10 years at least (probably closer to 12), and I grow 2-3 cycles a year, veggie gardens, mushrooms, shit lasts a LONG time. I used a ton when I used to grow cannabis outside (8-10 plants), but that's a thing of the past, indoor diet for some time now.  You can use smaller packages of marble dust if you don't want 50 lbs in your garage.  I'm a bulk buyer, but we all have different end games. 

I keep it simple... 50/50 peat/verm probably 2-3 tablespoons CC, I just eyeball it most of the time (no need to measure once you have your process down) until it has the color I'm looking for (almost a greyish brown hue). 

In other news, I shook the jars yesterday, and bouncing back today no problem.  LETS GO Pan Growers!

Edited by MushLuvR77 (06/21/26 01:38 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Muffa] * 1
    #29608683 -

Maybe the compound itself is not the main factor, but rather the way it is applied. I tried it one last time the way Tree Frog mentioned in his post about growing pans, and I can say that the method really works. The casing layer should be very thin with small bare spots — basically just a few millimeters thick. The mix was coarse sand (pool filter sand) and coco coir at a 30/70 ratio.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Noah Keeper]
    #29608700 -

I recently got a sample of these free from a provider. I came here asking the basics first:

1) Does the substrate have to contain manure?
2) If yes, how much?
3) Is everything else the same in terms of cultivation (inoculation, transfer to monotub, etc)?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: chewinggum] * 1
    #29608706 -

chewinggum said:
I recently got a sample of these free from a provider. I came here asking the basics first:

1) Does the substrate have to contain manure?
2) If yes, how much?
3) Is everything else the same in terms of cultivation (inoculation, transfer to monotub, etc)?


link


--------------------
Learn it, know it, live it


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: chewinggum]
    #29608852 -

Let’s say manure is the primary substrate, but many people are experimenting with other mixes as well, including pure hay. A lot of these experiments have shown promising results. This species is picky and requires different fruiting conditions compared to many others. Check the earlier discussion — there was a conversation about what type of fruiting chamber works well for them.
Also, check the link shared earlier; there is a ton of information there.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Noah Keeper]
    #29609722 -

Is the general consensus still that Panaelous species' mycelium (specifically Cyanescens in this case) is "weaker" and more susceptible to contam or is that outdated info?

So far in my limited experience, Cyans seem pretty hardy. I have had exposed grains in 6 trays that have gone on for multiple additional flushes and still weren't contaminated when I tossed the spent substrate. Since switching to heated water tubs, I am still seeing the mycelium hold up when grains are exposed and temps inside the tub are hitting 82 to 84 degrees.

These trays are going on flush #3, have huge craters of visible grains, and are sitting inside a constant 81 degrees. I also screwed up the schedule settings on my humidifier initially and it was running for an hour straight for one hour during the night, rather than 5 minutes each hour. So the surface was soaked each morning. And the tub is pretty wide open - I have 1.25" holes drilled low all around the tub letting in unfiltered air all day. This tub is sitting right by the window and over the weekend I had the window fully open letting in outside air for most of the day. Further, before these trays even started pinning, I peeled off the entire surface of overlay which should have caused some amount of stress, you would think. To top it off, I believe the spawn was also slightly bacterial, with that faint red bacteria that has been discussed lately.





That said, is this a unique culture I have or is this typical for Pa. Cyan? I have been working with the same TTBVI LC for the last few weeks.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: SignedinStranger]
    #29609736 -

In my experience, Panaeolus cyanescens has extremely aggressive and fast-growing mycelium despite its delicate appearance. When it is placed into a substrate that closely matches its natural environment in terms of structure, microbial community, and mineral composition, full colonization can occur within just a few days, sometimes as little as 3–5 days.

Very few mushroom species can compete with it under those conditions. In terms of colonization speed and substrate takeover, the main competitors are usually molds rather than other mushroom species. Because of that, I think the reputation of Pan cyan mycelium as being inherently weak may be somewhat overstated, especially when environmental parameters are dialed in correctly.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Noah Keeper]
    #29610140 -

Do they need casing? I case at spawn very thin with coir and worm casting. Casing are fully colonized now. Its is good idea to case with vemiculite only like with subtropicalis or let them run and see what will happening.

Edited by maimunji (06/24/26 05:11 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: maimunji] * 1
    #29610296 -

They fruit better with a casing layer that isn't too nutrient-rich or too thick. Vermiculite alone, or vermiculite or sand mixed with coir, works well.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Noah Keeper] * 4
    #29610326 -

Omg im so happy right now, pcyan pins!!!! All of my summer projects have been a success and we're not far into the summer.

Got another jar that's fully colonized so sending another tray today!

Also does construction sand plus coir and verm work as a casing layer lmfao

OH YEA, harvesting these mushrooms from the jars are gonna be tricky before sending to trays LOL





Edited by Nate em All (06/24/26 12:00 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Nate em All]
    #29610347 -

Jar pins I salvaged



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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Nate em All]
    #29610373 -

I have been having some trouble with my TTBVI AIO jars. I have gotten them to pin, but the pins dont seem to develop properly into fruits. I run a substrate with 35% coir, 30% cow manure, 30% straw and 5% rise husks mix. And mix in 1/3 rye grain and 2/3 of the sub above, in each half pint jar. I case them with a ph adjusted coir, cactus soil and verm mix, sprayed with azospirillium. I also run the jars in a dreamer tub.

The pins have been at the same size for some days now, and in other jars the pins aborted. My thinking was that they looked a bit dry so I upped the humidity, and lowered the air intake a bit. Which seemed to work.

How does the pins look to you? Is there any obvious things I should work on or is it just a waiting game from now on?



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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: DiscoDave] * 1
    #29610383 -

I'm pretty sure TF'S guide mentioned misting the contents once it was in a tray but before casing to rehydrate the sub a little bit. When I did AIO jars I always found the contents a little rubbery and dry after removing it from the jar.

The rest of your process looks good so it makes me wonder if your pins are running into a lack of water.

Just my two pennies.


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29610416 -

Noah Keeper said:
Let’s say manure is the primary substrate, but many people are experimenting with other mixes as well, including pure hay. A lot of these experiments have shown promising results. This species is picky and requires different fruiting conditions compared to many others. Check the earlier discussion — there was a conversation about what type of fruiting chamber works well for them.
Also, check the link shared earlier; there is a ton of information there.

I'm thinking of doing a pure straw run, no experience with hay, some folks don't know the difference and get them confused.  Be cool to see a straight HAY run, I'm going to play with shoebox low-budget style until I clear up some room to put up the GH tent.  I'm just getting back to this, so I'm in an experimental mood these days, don't care about fruits since that's usually a given to some degree, and I don't need ounces, so PLAY on folks.  Different goals to hopefully... the finish line!

Edited by MushLuvR77 (06/24/26 03:42 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: MushLuvR77]
    #29610437 -

Looked around but a lot of the info is YEARS old. What the consensus on pan LC? I'm aware plates like low nutrition and I read a suggestion to use boiled grain water. But I do have a few jars of LC laying around already.

Currently using
600ml water
20g corn syrup
1.2g LME
1g peptoe


--------------------
tree frog's guide to panaeolus
tree frog's notes on pans
MacMerdin's Simple Pan-Cakes
JCM Tub
SFF Shoebox Assembly TEK
JOC TEK Panaeolus cyanescens
Pastywhyte’s Ez dialed monotubs

Edited by opamp (06/24/26 04:46 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: opamp]
    #29610441 -

Have used liquid inoculant instead of liquid culture and it worked well. It all depends on how clean your original sample was.


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: MushLuvR77]
    #29610443 -

Haven’t tried but seen many successful grows. Probably hard to maintain moisture, it doesn’t absorb too much of water

Edited by Noah Keeper (06/24/26 05:03 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29610445 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Have used liquid inoculant instead of liquid culture and it worked well. It all depends on how clean your original sample was.


Sorry I meant as far as a pan LC recipe. I have a LC syringe syringe in the mail and want to expand.


--------------------
tree frog's guide to panaeolus
tree frog's notes on pans
MacMerdin's Simple Pan-Cakes
JCM Tub
SFF Shoebox Assembly TEK
JOC TEK Panaeolus cyanescens
Pastywhyte’s Ez dialed monotubs

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Shop: North Spore Boomr Bag   Myyco.com Golden Teacher Liquid Culture For Sale   Original Sensible Seeds Autoflowering Cannabis Seeds   Sporeworks.EU Spores for European Microscopy   Mushroom-Hut Liquid Cultures   MagicBag.co All-In-One Bags That Don't Suck

Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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