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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms
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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Nichrome]
    #28789956 -

Strange, this hasn’t happened on my other morel LCs like importuna or angusticeps


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #28789966 -

Well strange is pretty cool in my book.


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Question everything, it's very responsive.

Culture Storage

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Nichrome]
    #28790233 -





Esculenta germ plate with fluorescent bacteria.


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Question everything, it's very responsive.

Culture Storage

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Nichrome] * 1
    #28790339 -

He’ll you should make art with that bacteria lol that’s cool stuff

What is your agar media? LMEA, PDYA?


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns] * 1
    #28790361 -

Light pilsen malt, touch of yeast, and a sprinkle of brf. About 1.5% nutrition and around 1.8% agar.

This one I pulled off a wild C militaris last summer.


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Question everything, it's very responsive.

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Re: morel cult thread [Re: Nichrome]
    #28791009 -

Hi I just found this morel in southern Oregon, 3100ft elevation.

I'm wondering what species it is, and if it would be a good one to cultivate.  I put it in a jar, and I can't see a visible spore deposit, maybe because it was dry when i picked it.  I might still try to germinate spores, and maybe clone stipe tissue as well. 

Any thoughts? 

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Re: morel cult thread [Re: Generic]
    #28791274 -

Spores can take a while to drop. I've seen prints take days to really build up.


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Question everything, it's very responsive.

Culture Storage

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Re: morel cult thread [Re: Nichrome]
    #28793055 -

IME, all you need to do is carry them around in a plastic grocery bag while hunting, or throw them in the dehydrator. You'll have plenty of visible spores dropped everywhere in no time. LOL


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:dragon:

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Re: morel cult thread [Re: Dragonaut]
    #28795564 -

Well no doubt the spores deposited on the side of the jar shortly after I posted last.

I scraped some spores and put them on 2 agar plates: 3/28. 
Here's the germ plates today: T1 3/31.


____________________________________________________________________

Now here is a different mushroom, but from the same forest, very close to the other one.  I posted this in Mushroom Hunting & Identification, Here, In hopes to ID what i'm cultivating.  I'm just going to copy and paste that post below.

Generic said:



This is another mushroom in the same area (less than 1/4mile away, but on a different aspect, or on a different slope across the creek from the first one.)  Both were around 3100' elevation.

What else could I be looking at to differentiate between species?



Now I've had success with a 5-gal bucket of 3% honey water, with a handfull of mature morels thrown in, left to ferment for at least a week, then I spread it around my garden.  That worked, and I harvested about 1 Gal of dried morels from that, but they only fruited that one time.  (the first time I tried, in a different garden, only 1 morel fruited, then never came back again... seems to be a one-year-wonder in both cases..)

So I was thinking I'd make a cleaner liquid culture this year and try again, but I haven't had time to read/search through this thread for insight.  I'm hoping to put them in my garden again, any thoughts would be appreciated.  thanks

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Re: morel cult thread [Re: Generic]
    #28795938 -

How much energy are you willing to put into it, do you only want to use it as a sterile lc or do you want to put it on supplemented sawdust and use that as inoculation for yourself garden? That’s what I would suggest and will probably give the best results but you would probably want a good amount


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Re: morel cult thread [Re: Generic] * 3
    #28800987 -

If you are cleaning up a culture and going the LC route, I would look into mass sclerotia production. With the right methods, you can produce a large amount of sclerotia in a small space within 1-2 months. It's very easy to do with easily acquired ingredients if you have a PC for sterilizing.

I would then mix the sclerotia with nutrient/compost-rich potting soil and put the inoculated soil into planters/pots to discourage the mycelia from escaping. If the soil you are using is mostly woody/organic, you'll need to mix in some sand or "topsoil" to make the soil more loamy. You can plant stuff in the planters so that they're not just empty pots of soil. You'll also remember to water them if there are plants.

This fruitbody was grown off of a small amount of mycelia/sclerotia. I put a few sclerotia some of my cultured substrate that I was going to toss away (because I was out of space) into pots on a whim. I was surprised that some of them fruited. Out of the four or so pots I inoculated, I got three primordia of which two grew into mature fruits. One of them got destroyed by slugs.


This is my second successful outdoor grow after getting my first (accidental) success from a tossed grow attempt. This year I will do more pots to see if I can replicate the success and maybe even improve yields with more inoculum. At some point when I have the required data, I will attempt indoor fruiting trials, but being able to grow them in the garden is good for now.

Edited by RuffPastian (06/05/24 04:40 AM)

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: RuffPastian]
    #28803658 -

Do any of these look ok for morel mycelium/jars? I am half assing a couple morel(which is a species I have only picked from the wild) spawn jars to mess around with using stuff that was about to be thrown out or into a compost pile like old cooked oats, saw dust, maybe some used coffee grounds. I didn't realize didn't realize how blurry the fully covered yellowish all oat jar pics are until now, but pretty sure they started out looking like the others, then was taken over by the little white spots in the 2nd picture at the bottom middle/corner of the jar that grew and was was soon covered.
I feel like they don't seem right, but am hoping for the best and that I am just used to different looking mycelium in different environments at different stages or something.






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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Orange Joe]
    #28803698 -

Orange Joe said:
Do any of these look ok for morel mycelium/jars? I am half assing a couple morel(which is a species I have only picked from the wild) spawn jars to mess around with using stuff that was about to be thrown out or into a compost pile like old cooked oats, saw dust, maybe some used coffee grounds. I didn't realize didn't realize how blurry the fully covered yellowish all oat jar pics are until now, but pretty sure they started out looking like the others, then was taken over by the little white spots in the 2nd picture at the bottom middle/corner of the jar that grew and was was soon covered.
I feel like they don't seem right, but am hoping for the best and that I am just used to different looking mycelium in different environments at different stages or something.







I think those are a couple of jars of ripe wet bacteria?


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Yours in the Natural State Land of Enchantment!

"Sometimes the only way for a man to find true happiness is to take drugs in a group" - Cochise

No makin funna my pomes!

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: curenado] * 1
    #28803872 -

curenado said:
Orange Joe said:
Do any of these look ok for morel mycelium?







I think those are a couple of jars of ripe wet bacteria?



Then that makes you an uninformed asshole no offense but it’s never sat right with me when someone chimes in with wrong info and it causes the OP to toss their stuff


Now to you Orange Joe …. That is actually really healthy and beautiful morel mycelium I’m curious as to your exact recipe for you get complete colonization like this, regular grain never seemed to colonize that thick for me but adding nitrogen like coffee and sawdust for carbon did give good complete colonization so I’m assuming it’s your mix,

*** edit “asshole” is probably a poor choice of language for me to use


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Edited by 7Suns (06/29/24 11:32 PM)

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #28804081 -

7Suns said:
Then that makes you an uninformed asshole no offense but it’s never sat right with me when someone chimes in with wrong info and it causes the OP to toss their stuff


Now to you Orange Joe …. That is actually really healthy and beautiful morel mycelium I’m curious as to your exact recipe for you get complete colonization like this, regular grain never seemed to colonize that thick for me but adding nitrogen like coffee and sawdust for carbon did give good complete colonization so I’m assuming it’s your mix,


That's good to hear if it is indeed healthy! Some things I read made me think it might be ok, but wasn't sure and other myceliums I see often made me wonder, but know they vary.

I am almost positive the yellowish fully/mostly colonized pics were only whole oats bought as horse feed/ with the hull still on that I freshly cooked in my rice cooker(with some extra water, drained using the lid, and let sat for an hour before loading into jars), but was definitely in a use used coffee grounds for everything state of mind a couple weeks ago. There doesn't seem to be any coffee in there though, just a few of some kind of little black seeds that were in with the cheap oats. The fast jar has a hole and polyfil lid and although I am not sure the ratios, the slower jars are old oats that have kind of just been sitting in a couple jars for a couple weeks(but didn't seem contaminated) with sawdust, coffee grounds, and some cannabis ashes that I poured some hot or boiling water on in a bag, let sit for like 10 mins, and squeezed a some excess water off. A small layer of (I believe)the freshly cooked oats went on the bottom of those jars. Jars using that combo have a polyfil, regular 2 part metal, and one of those plastic lids since I wanted to see normal lids without good air exchange compare to polyfil. I squirted some liquid culture into each jar and left them in a room where the light it off like 23.5/7.

I really need to write things down more to keep track of this stuff better and get my camera out.


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Orange Joe]
    #28804288 -

It’s 100% morel mycelium I can assure you on that, maybe you have a good culture if it’s doing that on plain oats, the reason the mycelium is yellowing and looks lumpy like that is because it is starting to produce sclerotia which is said to be a critical part in their life cycle before they can produce mushroom fruit bodies


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #28805124 -

I thought I was getting clean cultures after T2, but this blackening is happening on my agar, is that bacterial?  I was thinking it's something funny morchella does, but it's not happening on one of my plates that looks the cleanest, so I'm thinking I have only one clean culture now.  But it could just turn black soon like the others did.

Suspected Clean Culture:










Probably contaminated culture 1




Probably contaminated culture 2


Since this last one is asymmetrical, you can see the morchella myclium running up the side of the jar where it is not black (left side in last picture), and not where it is darkened(right side).

Questions:
Is it best to take from the leading edge of morchella myclium?
Would there be a benefit to let it grow on agar for a while for some sclerotia or other weird morchella practices?

7Suns, thank you for all your help.  I could make sawdust spawn but don't have bran to supplement with.  would a high grain spawn to sawdust ratio be appropriate to 'supplement' the sawdust?  And, Would sending this mycelium to Rye Grain be wise?  I read a little bit above about different grain mixes, how would you recommend I go from agar to make supplemented sawdust?  Is the grain the harder part to colonize?

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Generic]
    #28805254 -

Generic,

Your mycelium is clean in every jar you posted pics of, morel mycelium does in fact turn the agar dark so does chaga, blewits and a few other species, I believe it is a reaction to their metabolites and I would imagine it’s similar to the reaction between iodine and carbohydrates/sugars also known as the BENEDICT'S TEST. Although that’s just my personal assumption. Morels will also turn your Liquid cultures dark I could post some pics of mine if you like for comparison

Usually when a morel culture no longer produces this darkening effect is when I’ve noticed the culture seems to have become senescent  but that can also be caused by the type of nutrients you use for example I have recently decided to never use malt extract for morels again, PDYA seems to give the fastest and most dense growth and produces stones on agar within a week, lmea does not produce stones until several weeks and they are extremely small in comparison


To answer your questions:

1 I have noticed where you take the transfer from does effect how long it takes to initiate stone production on the new plate, if you transfer from the inner area that already has stones then it’s quicker to make new stones if you take the leading edge it takes longer to make stones on the new plate although I don’t know or suspect it to have any impact when transferring to spawn

2 letting it grow out longer on agar wouldn’t really have any benefits from my experience and could in fact make it harder to identity if there are any latent contaminants because of the over growth


Now a recommendation I would make would be to cycle your morel cultures sooner, make transfers every 6 months to help maintain the cultures


Oh and I almost forgot

As far as substrate/spawn goes, I would say 50/50 grain sawdust would be a good test to run

Or straight grain mixed with a nitrogen source like coffee grounds or soybean meal

Honestly the name of the game is to do as many different test as possible and record what works best and repeat it

The key message that keeps popping up in the patents and my own experiments has been to balance the carbon and nitrogen content properly


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #28805286 -

Thanks 7suns!
7Suns said:
Usually when a morel culture no longer produces this darkening effect is when I’ve noticed the culture seems to have become senescent  but that can also be caused by the type of nutrients you use for example I have recently decided to never use malt extract for morels again, PDYA seems to give the fastest and most dense growth and produces stones on agar within a week, lmea does not produce stones until several weeks and they are extremely small in comparison ...
... Now a recommendation I would make would be to cycle your morel cultures sooner, make transfers every 6 months to help maintain the cultures


These cultures can't be senescent; they just germinated 3/28/24  I just posted this above

All 3 jars are different cultures



7Suns said:
1 I have noticed where you take the transfer from does effect how long it takes to initiate stone production on the new plate, if you transfer from the inner area that already has stones then it’s quicker to make new stones if you take the leading edge it takes longer to make stones on the new plate although I don’t know or suspect it to have any impact when transferring to spawn

2 letting it grow out longer on agar wouldn’t really have any benefits from my experience and could in fact make it harder to identity if there are any latent contaminants because of the over growth


So quickly forming stones seems like a good thing, but I should ignore that on agar because transferring clean mycelium is the priority... Do i want them to form stones on grain spawn? in the sawdust spawn mix?

Still want to do a LC, would Quart jars of 2-4% brown sugar be a good idea?  have you seen that they grow better on certain types of LC?  I never do LCs for cultivation, swirl them or shake them daily or no?

Edited by Generic (01/27/25 11:38 PM)

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Generic]
    #28805317 -

Generic I love your enthusiasm to experiment ill shoot you a pm soon I’d like to collaborate with you

The one that hasn’t discolored the agar could be strain dependent, what are the 3 types you’re using?  It could also just be slower to change like you first suspected


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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms
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