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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: metalhead]
    #27768478 -

metalhead said:
Hello everyone! I’ve been watching the progress of this thread and it’s amazing to see what’s it’s grown into after all the years since I’ve started this thread.  I haven’t had a chance to pursue this endeavor in quite a few years. But and starting to get back into it. I recently came across a group of people in Denmark who have seemingly perfected this indoor cultivation to the point that they are claiming commercial applicable results. Has anybody read into this at all? It’s called the danish morel project. They are using an undisclosed black morel variant. Seems like Elata or Conica from what I gather. But it’s exciting to say the least. They are very careful about not letting slip any trade secrets but I feel there has to be some clues in their information.



BIG THANKS, metalhead!!!!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Pezizales]
    #27769499 -

Hi can someone point me in the right direction for getting dried morel spores to agar? I've had no luck with the search function on this thread and a lot of the info is old. I tried gathering some samples from morels but having a hard time with contams so I want to try the spore way next. Thanks!

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: freddyincognito]
    #27769876 -

I figured someone would have answered you already. Thread's pretty slow these days.
I've had great success using even six year old dried morels. Just drop them in a blender with some distilled water, let it hydrate for a bit and then inoculate many petrie's as there will be contaminants. If you're unfamiliar with isolating from contam's there's much info to easily be found.
Regards.




Edited by Pezizales (05/09/22 02:50 PM)

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27770493 -

7Suns said:
Blushing said:
17-23°C it was a temperature for sclerotia.



Sclerotia will form at 38f and up, I can verify this, I put a liquid culture in the fridge a week after it was made , there was no sclerotia, about 4 months later and the whole thing was sclerotia

These are morchella angusticeps sclerotia from liquid culture at 38f for 4 months in the fridge



Hey 7Suns, have you tried storing a petri at that temperature as well and seeing if that triggers similar growth? It might even be worth pouring a thick slab of MAE in the bottom of a mason jar with a filtered lid and see what size sclerotia it will grow in a fridge.

Also, having successfully used your oxytetracycline antibiotic recipe in other culinary strains (Thank you so much!), I was curious if you have used this to clean up morel cultures as I have only found a few LC's of Morchella rufobrunnea and angusticeps online so unfortunately it looks as though I will have to be mainly starting from spores or tissue cultures.

I am looking to start adding to this project in the near future and have a few questions after reading the 110 pages of posts that I haven't seen covered.

When growing the sclerotia on petri, what temperature are you storing them at? Has anyone who has successfully grown sclerotia tested to see if raising or lowering the temperature speeds up/slows down formation to get a baseline temperature of most rapid growth?

What concentrations of nutrients are being used on petris? There was some discussion on lower nutrient levels being beneficial, but I don't think anything solid has been established. The addition of urea from the guy who had a petri pinning on FB sparks my curiosity and I would like to explore more. Maybe adding low concentration urea to a watering of colonized substrate could have a similar effect and trigger pinning?

It seems as though Morchella rufobrunnea is likely the only successful strain to be cultivated indoors, so what is the reasoning behind starting with another strain such as angusticeps? The production of sclerotia is very strong on the latter, although from my (admittedly limited) knowledge it appears as though the triggers are even less understood than rufobrunnea.

Sorry for a lengthy first post with tons of questions. I just want to make sure to get a game plan on what has already been figured out and which variables I want to start with.

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: GourmetGod]
    #27773322 -

I haven’t used my antibiotic agar for morels yet, if I remember correctly it might be more inhibitory to ascomycota , try it tho and let us know, also you don’t need urea... it’s what I’ve been repeating over and over, any nitrogen source (urea is a source of nitrogen) and carbon or better yet carbohydrates and to simplify... starch 

I don’t think colder temperatures actually increases stone size or production, instead I believe it initiates a dormancy phase that is followed by a reproductive sexual cycle as they thaw/warm up because of increased atp levels... there’s been research on this the links are out there

But stone size is based on proper key nutrients carbon/nitrogen and time for assimilation usually 45-90 days to incubate at room temperature followed by 60-90 days in cold dormancy
Then soaked for 2-3 days and spawned in a 50/30/20 mix of verm/coir/clay and placed in a wine chiller at 55f to 60f with constant passive FAE

So far I’ve only gotten pins that quickly abort


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27773339 -

Also I just want to point out that morel mycelium is pretty easy to isolate because it sends out fast runners and germinates quickly, it actually reminds me of pin mold , it’s not like you’re typical Agaricomycetes mycelium that’s dense and slow moving
Ascomycetes have to be quick to compete and they function more like their ancestral yeast forbearers they are said to derive from


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27773390 -

7Suns said:
Also I just want to point out that morel mycelium is pretty easy to isolate because it sends out fast runners and germinates quickly, it actually reminds me of pin mold , it’s not like you’re typical Agaricomycetes mycelium that’s dense and slow moving
Ascomycetes have to be quick to compete and they function more like their ancestral yeast forbearers they are said to derive from



Thank you so much for the info. With that level of growth it should be easy to find a clean place to transfer on petris.

At the risk of going too far in to the obscure theory side, I want to share a hypothesis that I have. I stated it in a forum regarding probiotic bacteria use here.

GourmetGod said:
My recent interest in the subject has come the the interest in learning more on the morel life cycle. I am no expert in this subject, just a culinary mushroom farmer that is looking for a new challenge to explore after getting bored with the daily grind of growing the typical oyster/shiitake/brown beech/enokitake/lions mane varieties. I did stay at a holiday inn once though...

If you look at the successful indoor cultivation by a couple groups with morels, both seem to take an approach that would not be sterile. The original success was using only partially composted native soil to the morel, and the danish morel project appears to be doing something similar. It is my hypothesis that the beneficial bacteria play a critical role in triggering fruiting of morel after sclerotia formation. As the soil warms up and the bacteria go out of dormancy, it releases a chemical(s) that is the signal for morels to fruit. Does this make sense to you or am I talking nonsense? (please let me know if I am speaking nonsense as I am entirely self taught in mycology)   

I found a very interesting paper on this subject:

https://sfamjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/1462-2920.14765

Particularly interesting passage:

"The environment within and surrounding fungal hyphae, sometimes known as the mycosphere, influences and is strongly influenced by bacterial communities, to the extent that many macrofungi are unable to produce fruiting bodies in a sterile environment (Noble et al., 2003, 2009)."

When following other articles I found NH4 come up several times. I will try to track down a few that I have found. Then again, the NH4 could be triggering growth in surrounding plant life and it is an indirect cause of fruiting as it triggers the plant to release the chemical that triggers the mushroom to fruit.



I would like to ask you the same question of whether or not I am way off the mark or if this is a plausible theory worth testing. While I run a small culinary mushroom business, I am not looking to keep secrets in the hope of profiting off of what I feel like would bring a much better understanding of mycology as a whole. Sterile works for some strains, but my research thus far has lead me to believe that complex interactions with bacteria, plant life, and other fungi might be the key to getting morels to fruit.

This has also lead me down the rabbit hole on creating testing procedures for introduction of beneficial bacteria to increase fungus gnat resistance in culinary grows.

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: GourmetGod]
    #27773551 -

At this point it’s all hypotheses, I don’t think asking a forum if you’re in left field with your theory is the best route considering most members here are by the book and will bash anything that doesn’t follow suit, if you want to experiment and research then by all means that’s your prerogative but don’t expect to much help from the community on that, I personally encourage experiments because the data collected will speak for itself and can possibly lead you to your serendipity


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27773906 -

Very true, I feel like anything beyond standard mycology growing practices is often dismissed here as sacrilege. Without testing new hypothesis', no advancements can be made unless they are stumbled on accidentally.

I have found one friend so far that is sending me some wild (what he believes to be) Rufo spores and a couple vendors selling spores and cultures, so I should be able to start soon.Now I just need to find a reasonably priced place for buying bacteria isolates..

Luckily I am in process of adding another 10x10 tent for my culinary strains currently. This will open up plenty of space in one of my old 4x8 tents for experiments.I also have an extra fridge I'm not using already wired with a PLC temp controller.

Thanks for all you have contributed to this thread so far. Hopefully I can add something useful as well.

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: GourmetGod]
    #27775155 -

:thumbup:

Hopefully someone cracks the code and releases it to the public


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: Pezizales]
    #27775509 -

Pezizales said:
I figured someone would have answered you already. Thread's pretty slow these days.
I've had great success using even six year old dried morels. Just drop them in a blender with some distilled water, let it hydrate for a bit and then inoculate many petrie's as there will be contaminants. If you're unfamiliar with isolating from contam's there's much info to easily be found.
Regards.







Nice thanks for the tips, I got a couple more morels to try the blender method. What I got growing already on some potato agar though, I'm curious if some of it could be morels. Some started as white and spotty all over the plate and now are brown and extremely fluffy, mostly from black morels, And some are more like classic mycelium, growing outwards in a white circle, mostly from common greys. Hopefully these pics are good enough:

These are from black morels, which I'm assuming is just contams. These pics are terrible but in pic 2, you can see the starting white fluff from the sample in the top right corner. The rest shows rising little brown fluffy "pods" that could resemble little sclerotia, to me.


And these are what the grey's are producing, also heavily contamed but if the white is myc, it could be saved:



Thoughts? Never seen a solid example of morel myc so just don't know what to be looking for.

Edited by freddyincognito (05/13/22 12:22 PM)

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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: freddyincognito]
    #27775600 -

Brown cobweb/fluffy is correct for blacks and yellows


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27775613 -

Also if it’s in vegetative mode it will be fluffy/cobweb looking except white almost like loose polyfill, as it begins to age and build up triglycerides (fats) that’s when it starts to darken and form psuedo-sclerotia

So if yours is starting to darken and develop small aggregates you’re on the right track


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: freddyincognito]
    #27775632 -







These 2 look right might need to isolate a few more times if there’s anything hiding but that golden bumpy myc is definitely 100% morel mycelium


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27781992 -

Just want to share my research and how far I’ve gotten with my experiments, maybe it will help others and we can finally make this public knowledge

(Don’t take this to be 100% accurate or written in stone, this is just from my own observations and is meant to be a loose guide that you can tweak to do your own experiments but hopefully this will give you a solid starting point to build from and get you healthy and viable sclerotia production)

they prefer starch as there carbohydrate so think potato starch, wheat flour, rice flour, anything like that and then you want a nitrogen source, artificial or natural so you could use anything from chicken manure, coffee, urea, etc and keep in mind some nitrogen sources are acidic so you will need a ph buffer like pickling lime and ph strips to adjust the media properly  (essentially just brf jars with nitrogen) without nitrogen they don’t thicken up or produce stones very well, and using plain whole grains like rye, was a big fail for me, they only made thin wispy hyphe no real stone production, I’ve tried half and half grain and potting soil mix, also a failure, it made tiny stones in the soil layer and the grain was only wispy mycelium, so again for total spawn to be turned into sclerotia, use starch like potato flake or any grain flour with verm or sawdust for air space and nitrogen like coffee, chicken manure/ worm castings, even miracle grow will work

Also I only fill my quart jars 1/8 full to allow quick colonization and head space, also working with different stains will be a better idea, the strains you should focus on are rufobrunea, any landscape morels like importuna or esculenta and then natural morels and burn site morels last 

I have what’s supposed to be rufobrunea pinning in vitro currently, (update: upon further inspection it’s just very large sclerotia formation, I’ll upload pics of it soon) I’m a bit skeptical tho from all my other experiences with other types of morels these don’t seem anything similar but it came from Lenny Rockwell at the mycelium emporium so I don’t have reason to believe he would send a bunk culture

The chiller is crucial in my honest opinion think about it they only fruit in spring so this tells us they need a cold dormancy period typically 3 months to mimic winter, followed by a slow thaw up to 50-60f soil temperature and heavy saturation, this is also why you want to choose a good draining substrate, that will drain excess water off but stay slightly moist, I use a mix of verm, sand, peat, and clay

Also fluctuating temperature ls from 40-60f helps copying day time highs and night time lows 

The mix that I’ve found to be the simplest and most productive is 1/4 cup rice flour / 1 tablespoon fresh unbrewed coffee grinds, and enough Pickling lime for ph adjustment, you want to shoot for 7- 8 ph  and I only fill each jar 1-2 inch’s

With this spawn mix the whole thing becomes a solid sclerotia I call a “hockey puck” which can later be broken up and placed in sandy substrate mix


The chiller I use is easy to make all you need is an old fridge or deep freezer and a temperature controller from eBay I bought a “willhi” unit for under $30 but “inkbird” makes one too just a little bit pricey for my taste but they are both plug and play just plug the fridge/freezer into the controller and then put the temperature prob into the fridge/freezer, set your minimum and maximum temperature range on the controller and then plug the controller into the wall


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27782005 -

Here’s a link to my notes in my journal sorry it’s unorganized https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27782003/vc/1#27782003


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27782013 -

These are 3-4 month old rufobrunea cultures on my mix incubated at room temperature, they started producing these weird anomalies just like the angusticeps strain in LC

(I’m about to open them up and try spawning them so I’ll harvest the anomalies and show you guys a better close up)

I find it odd tho, this is the only morchella strain I’ve worked with that have colonized completely white and rhizomorphic like this no other strains have given me this kind of mycelium, normally it’s yellow/brown and less dense



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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27782020 -

Also I’d be willing to send you guys some spawn if anyone is interested in trades ? Pretty much open to what ever and I apologize in advance I know this isn’t the market place but I’m just trying to help if anyone wants sclerotia as starting material to experiment with


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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27782032 -

Morchella rufobrunea “hockey puck” and stones/mycelium



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Re: morel cultivation thread [Re: 7Suns]
    #27783665 -

7Suns said:
Also I’d be willing to send you guys some spawn if anyone is interested in trades ? Pretty much open to what ever and I apologize in advance I know this isn’t the market place but I’m just trying to help if anyone wants sclerotia as starting material to experiment with



Once I get some good petris going of the spores my friend sent and the LC's I am going to order I'll be interested in trading some petris/lc's/slants. Realistically though it will probably be September before I have the time to do much in terms of experimenting. Working on scaling my culinary operation so that I can start selling to restaurants and keep the extra revenue flowing in the winter months. This is unfortunately leaving me little time to do much else currently.

Quote:
7Suns said: The mix that I’ve found to be the simplest and most productive is 1/4 cup rice flour / 1 tablespoon fresh unbrewed coffee grinds, and enough Pickling lime for ph adjustment, you want to shoot for 7- 8 ph  and I only fill each jar 1-2 inch’s



This alone will save me countless hours of trial and error. You are truly a god among men 7suns! Thank you so much for sharing your journal summary for us.

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