coAsTal said:

Wish me luck--

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*sends mojo*

mycorry said:

My Caerulescens South Carolina are on flush #3

Here is the only photo I took of the second flush~



Unfortunately, with the third flush almost every fruit is damaged in several different ways.



Nothing has changed since the first flush from a cultural standpoint. I did everything the same. My guesses of what this damage was caused by are:

1:Fighting mold. I just discovered that every casing I have ever made has had miracle grow in it thanks to Home Depot's peat moss bags. Casing with nutrition = great home for mold. That combined with the fact that casings are already hard to manage with exotics due to their slow growth.

2: Potentially FAE issues. I think that maybe repeatedly exposing micropore tape to moisture then evaporating on a daily basis may hinder its overall air permiability leading to the black spots, melting, and fuzzy looking caps.

3: Too much sand/perlite in the casing. Maybe these are getting too scratched up as pins pushing through the casing. This one seems far fetched because if it was true it would have affected the first two flushes.

What are your guys thoughts/opinions on the causes?

*I have several colonized bags of the same culture ready to try out different tub setups and casings so I wont be scraping these and applying new.

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It's #1 or #2.. or both Mostly #2. Air flow, and good observation on the tape btw
The fuzzy caps are CO2 reaction, but when I see this trich sets in really fast. Too fast to have not already been there in an early vegetative form. I'm suspicious about it and other invaders weakening the colony before they are even visible.

coAsTal said:

I spawned the pint of 100% colonized Zap WBS I have been sitting on for about 2 months (to make sure it was absolutely completely colonized).

Based on my research and advice from some of you trusted growers, I pasteurized a pint of 70/30 wheat straw pellets/cactus soil for the substrate, and a half pint of plain cactus soil for the casing layer.
The glass I selected is about 9 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
The WBS (only leveled, and very modestly compressed) is about an inch, the sub is about the same, also carefully leveled but still airy, and the smoothed casing layer is appx. 1/4" deep across the top.

I enclosed it all in a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. There are two small holes in it, one mid-way from the lip, the other near the top.



Any advice on whether I should keep this in a cool dark drawer or put it where it's warmer w/light?

Wish me luck--

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Friggin sweet

The only critique I'd have would be casing early. Around here it increases the chance of spawn contamination. Typically trich. Shit is killing my casing layers right now so I'm making adjustments. 
Other than that I wrap the top with foil usually. Plastic is fine too. A few pin holes are good either way but especially with plastic as it seals better. I like foil because I can put it under the tray when it goes on perlite. Those little klingons bother me man.
Mine seem to do best at room temp. Upper shelf in a cupboard.
Good vibes coming

Darkslide said:

It's #1 or #2.. or both Mostly #2. Air flow, and good observation on the tape btw
The fuzzy caps are CO2 reaction, but when I see this trich sets in really fast. Too fast to have not already been there in an early vegetative form. I'm suspicious about it and other invaders weakening the colony before they are even visible.

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Good critiques are like a tall glass of cold water on a hot day. Thanks for the invaluable insight, as usual. The FAE issue is being addressed, but I am not finding a lot of info for different hole patterns for FAE. However, I have a set coming up soon with hole patterns that someone taught me about. Something about 4x4 of holes on the sides 

Ya I used to have trich breakouts right after flush #1 of caeruls but with my new system of injecting bags w/ LC I have gotten as many as 7 off of one (1lb)bag. But flush 7 is usually 2 mushrooms at most.  Even then the cake just kind of goes mushy and wont hold water anymore. I havn't had a single trick breakout since I got rid of grain and started treating my straw correctly(soapy water soak). I can't tell if its luck or good form... but if someone with your exp can get trich then i'm just getting lucky.

coAsTal said:

I spawned the pint of 100% colonized Zap WBS I have been sitting on for about 2 months (to make sure it was absolutely completely colonized).

Based on my research and advice from some of you trusted growers, I pasteurized a pint of 70/30 wheat straw pellets/cactus soil for the substrate, and a half pint of plain cactus soil for the casing layer.
The glass I selected is about 9 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
The WBS (only leveled, and very modestly compressed) is about an inch, the sub is about the same, also carefully leveled but still airy, and the smoothed casing layer is appx. 1/4" deep across the top.

I enclosed it all in a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. There are two small holes in it, one mid-way from the lip, the other near the top.



Any advice on whether I should keep this in a cool dark drawer or put it where it's warmer w/light?

Wish me luck--

---

mycorry said:

Darkslide said:

It's #1 or #2.. or both Mostly #2. Air flow, and good observation on the tape btw
The fuzzy caps are CO2 reaction, but when I see this trich sets in really fast. Too fast to have not already been there in an early vegetative form. I'm suspicious about it and other invaders weakening the colony before they are even visible.

---

Good critiques are like a tall glass of cold water on a hot day. Thanks for the invaluable insight, as usual. The FAE issue is being addressed, but I am not finding a lot of info for different hole patterns for FAE. However, I have a set coming up soon with hole patterns that someone taught me about. Something about 4x4 of holes on the sides 

Ya I used to have trich breakouts right after flush #1 of caeruls but with my new system of injecting bags w/ LC I have gotten as many as 7 off of one (1lb)bag. But flush 7 is usually 2 mushrooms at most.  Even then the cake just kind of goes mushy and wont hold water anymore. I havn't had a single trick breakout since I got rid of grain and started treating my straw correctly(soapy water soak). I can't tell if its luck or good form... but if someone with your exp can get trich then i'm just getting lucky.

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Not luck. You've eliminated the worst cause. Exposed grains. Most exotic mycelium has thin coverage and slow recovery times.
I rarely do the Drop of Dawn straw soak, but after seeing LogicalChaos's lysol thread I may just bring it back. I don't have a lot of trouble with the straw itself, but the suffracant may assist in protecting exposed grains. 
The next culprit for me is casing layer which indicates FAE issues typically.
And yeah Spring in Washington State mycologically sucks trich wise. It'll be this way until Summer starts on July 5th. 

coAsTal said:

It's extra tough because they thrive on neglect but demand consistent conditions. It's a tightrope walk of intuition.

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Very well put.

Darkslide said:

I have some Atl 7 prints in surplus since the damn thing won't stop flushing.

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You and your damned first-world problems...

Quote:

Psilocybe zapotecorum, a species first fruited on a medium of moss, was grown both on straw and horse dung composts in glazed earthenware pots designed to retain water. The mycelial laden compost was cased with calcareous sand and then completely submerged under water. Magnificent Psilocybe zapotecorum mushrooms came up right through the water! This interesting phenomenon is in keeping with the "subaquatic" ecological nature of the species.

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