bobwastaken said:

Amazing work Mycorry

The jar of subs is just MS>agar>grain>sterilized pine chips>cased with unsterile pine needle mulch and consolidated for a couple months. Lids were cracked and fruiting started 4 weeks after temps were reduced to 10-12c.

---

You are really paving the way with subs. Great work!

When I was a noob that and didn't understand temp requirements, I REALLY wanted to cultivate subs due to their potency but was discouraged by all the nay-sayers on the forums. Turns out you just have to have the tenacity that comes from the combination of love and curiosity for the species.

In two years I foresee a Xth generation easily-cultivated P. subaeruginosa strain called "SubR NSW F5" and a big Tek writup!

Asura said:

mycorry, I know this isn't scientific, but I really hope you pull enough out
of there for a big trip. Those are so beautiful.

---

Thank you, it means a lot

Most of my recent success has been from adapting your pan tek, hot glue gun and all, to exotics! Has been going great, I just need to figure my tubs out.

These are turning out to be little guys, maybe 1/3 the size of the caeru SC. It is likely because of too much water in the substrate, but then again the fruits I cloned from were short too

Short and already sporulating

mycorry said:

I finally got a cultivated caerulescens clone to fruit! IT CAN BE DONE!

BEHOLD! Caerulescens GA BHC2! (formerly Weilii GA)

---

Congratz !

The quest of growing exotic is so thrilling and rewarding

coAsTal said:

I spawned the pint of 100% colonized Zap WBS I have been sitting on for about 2 months (to make sure it was absolutely completely colonized).

Based on my research and advice from some of you trusted growers, I pasteurized a pint of 70/30 wheat straw pellets/cactus soil for the substrate, and a half pint of plain cactus soil for the casing layer.
The glass I selected is about 9 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
The WBS (only leveled, and very modestly compressed) is about an inch, the sub is about the same, also carefully leveled but still airy, and the smoothed casing layer is appx. 1/4" deep across the top.

I enclosed it all in a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. There are two small holes in it, one mid-way from the lip, the other near the top.

Any advice on whether I should keep this in a cool dark drawer or put it where it's warmer w/light?
Wish me luck--

---

Hey guys-- a 1 month update on the Zapotecorum mini-grow:

So far, it looks pretty darn good to my eye-- no signs of contamination are visible, and the myc is clearly busy working its way into the straw substrate I layered on top of the colonized grain.


My question is more about the casing layer and it's ideal hydration level moving forward-- there's plenty of good moisture at the grain level, with nice clear water humidity halos around the grains and all at the bottom-- and it appears to be pretty good moisture still in the sub layer, but the casing is drying out just a little. It's not "dry", but I'm wary.

The plastic bag I have it all wrapped in has condensation droplets on the surface, so there's definite humidity-- but it's certainly not on the higher side of moist at the surface. I have it in the corner of  the rack with my cactus babies, so it gets up to around upper 70's in there during the daytime when the lights are running and returns to the mid 60's or so at night.

With my dismal contamination history in this place, I'm very reluctant to remove that protective plastic to spray new water in there until absolutely necessary, as I don't want to introduce any vectors to screw this up as I get closer to prime time-- (this is the furthest along I've gotten all year of trying!)

Should I wait to re-moisten the casing layer based on these pics, or do you think it might stunt the progress if I don't do it soon? When it's time, I would of course perform the re-hydrate in my SAB, and I will likely replace the present thin plastic bag with something a little better so I don't have to worry about it collapsing and getting in the way of the surface area.

coAsTal said:

coAsTal said:

I spawned the pint of 100% colonized Zap WBS I have been sitting on for about 2 months (to make sure it was absolutely completely colonized).

Based on my research and advice from some of you trusted growers, I pasteurized a pint of 70/30 wheat straw pellets/cactus soil for the substrate, and a half pint of plain cactus soil for the casing layer.
The glass I selected is about 9 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
The WBS (only leveled, and very modestly compressed) is about an inch, the sub is about the same, also carefully leveled but still airy, and the smoothed casing layer is appx. 1/4" deep across the top.

I enclosed it all in a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. There are two small holes in it, one mid-way from the lip, the other near the top.

Any advice on whether I should keep this in a cool dark drawer or put it where it's warmer w/light?
Wish me luck--

---

Hey guys-- a 1 month update on the Zapotecorum mini-grow:

So far, it looks pretty darn good to my eye-- no signs of contamination are visible, and the myc is clearly busy working its way into the straw substrate I layered on top of the colonized grain.


My question is more about the casing layer and it's ideal hydration level moving forward-- there's plenty of good moisture at the grain level, with nice clear water humidity halos around the grains and all at the bottom-- and it appears to be pretty good moisture still in the sub layer, but the casing is drying out just a little. It's not "dry", but I'm wary.

The plastic bag I have it all wrapped in has condensation droplets on the surface, so there's definite humidity-- but it's certainly not on the higher side of moist at the surface. I have it in the corner of  the rack with my cactus babies, so it gets up to around upper 70's in there during the daytime when the lights are running and returns to the mid 60's or so at night.

With my dismal contamination history in this place, I'm very reluctant to remove that protective plastic to spray new water in there until absolutely necessary, as I don't want to introduce any vectors to screw this up as I get closer to prime time-- (this is the furthest along I've gotten all year of trying!)

Should I wait to re-moisten the casing layer based on these pics, or do you think it might stunt the progress if I don't do it soon? When it's time, I would of course perform the re-hydrate in my SAB, and I will likely replace the present thin plastic bag with something a little better so I don't have to worry about it collapsing and getting in the way of the surface area.

---

Jakeoncid419 said:

MyCory it’s funny you ask about neo (pm) just today I noticed these guys coming up in a kratom pot I loaded with neo bulk last year. So yes that was myc lol

---

That's pretty damn sweet! Great job! Look at that shag

Good to know! I was gonna just give up and toss all the plates until I saw your old post. This confirmation is great to hear

I wonder what other species do this same browning thing...

mycorry said:

I finally got to try out my new mono setup with caerulescens. These are turning out to be very large compared to my older caerulescens fruitings(my old var Weilii grows), and with no cap curl. The cap of the largest one is discolored because it spent last night pressed up against the wet lid of the mono chasing air. They need more FAE to prevent them from stretching so much.

Something interesting I noticed. These are two bags from the same culture but with different substrate recipes. The bag with the tall fruit has no manure(Straw/BRF/Red clay), and the caps are a bright orange. The other bag(that fruited late because the casing was previously too thin) has my normal cube substrate with Straw/Manure/Sand and has much darker, more brown caps. I have a feeling that this has something to do with the humic acid content of manure. This also lends credibility to the idea that some caerulescens varieties only appear to be a variety when they are merely just responding to the available substrate in that specific area. Specifically Caerulescens var nigripes from the mountains of oxaca comes to mind, but I wont know until I can find a print.

Keep in mind that these are not monocultures. They are close to it but not close enough.  However, I will be taking several clones from these flushes to then make monocultures with to then preform more experiments.

I wont stop until I can produce full canopies of every caerulescens variety!

I'll post updates on this mono

---

SWEEEET the South Carolina Caerus

mycorry said:

coAsTal said:

coAsTal said:

I spawned the pint of 100% colonized Zap WBS I have been sitting on for about 2 months (to make sure it was absolutely completely colonized).

Based on my research and advice from some of you trusted growers, I pasteurized a pint of 70/30 wheat straw pellets/cactus soil for the substrate, and a half pint of plain cactus soil for the casing layer.
The glass I selected is about 9 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
The WBS (only leveled, and very modestly compressed) is about an inch, the sub is about the same, also carefully leveled but still airy, and the smoothed casing layer is appx. 1/4" deep across the top.

I enclosed it all in a clear plastic bag secured with a rubber band. There are two small holes in it, one mid-way from the lip, the other near the top.

Any advice on whether I should keep this in a cool dark drawer or put it where it's warmer w/light?
Wish me luck--

---

Hey guys-- a 1 month update on the Zapotecorum mini-grow:

So far, it looks pretty darn good to my eye-- no signs of contamination are visible, and the myc is clearly busy working its way into the straw substrate I layered on top of the colonized grain.


My question is more about the casing layer and it's ideal hydration level moving forward-- there's plenty of good moisture at the grain level, with nice clear water humidity halos around the grains and all at the bottom-- and it appears to be pretty good moisture still in the sub layer, but the casing is drying out just a little. It's not "dry", but I'm wary.

The plastic bag I have it all wrapped in has condensation droplets on the surface, so there's definite humidity-- but it's certainly not on the higher side of moist at the surface. I have it in the corner of  the rack with my cactus babies, so it gets up to around upper 70's in there during the daytime when the lights are running and returns to the mid 60's or so at night.

With my dismal contamination history in this place, I'm very reluctant to remove that protective plastic to spray new water in there until absolutely necessary, as I don't want to introduce any vectors to screw this up as I get closer to prime time-- (this is the furthest along I've gotten all year of trying!)

Should I wait to re-moisten the casing layer based on these pics, or do you think it might stunt the progress if I don't do it soon? When it's time, I would of course perform the re-hydrate in my SAB, and I will likely replace the present thin plastic bag with something a little better so I don't have to worry about it collapsing and getting in the way of the surface area.

---

Basically all of your concerns are still problems and concerns of mine with my own stuff. This is why I have something like 8 different zap setups going at once, to see what works and what doesn't.

Even if I could answer some of those questions the answers would be tailor fitted to my experiences and my specific climate and tub permutation. In mushroom cultivation, there is an oft overlooked variable of "how do these TEKs I am trying to reproduce work in my specific environment". This variable is often negligible due to the ease of cultivating the popular species. With Zaps it is a whole library of variable and issues that have to be dealt with.

So far the best I have going right now is a little tub that I will post pics of in a bit to maybe help those of you out with what I have done right thus far.

---