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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: RogerTheRetard] * 1
    #26566966 -

Lol PacMan ghosts now that you mention it ahahah they sure do.

They're subsecotioides

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Astoriensis]
    #26567776 -

Astoriensis said:




Lol I have seen that image before, and I know whos subsecotioides fruits those are...
And I'm fairly certain that they came from spores that I collected myself.

The gills look non-traditional, but I guess it's just a change in structure from this native NZ species being cultivated half way across the world. :shrug:

Traditionally, subsecotioides look more like this...
Fred T said:




viktorvaughn said:




Dawnmace said:




Mine...


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:hitler::mushroom2:angulospora:heart:subaeruginosa:heart:subsecotioides:heart:tasmaniana:mushroom2::hitler:


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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Astoriensis]
    #26567785 -

Astoriensis said:
Lol PacMan ghosts now that you mention it ahahah they sure do.

They're subsecotioides



These cultivated specimens look different than normal wild NZ collections.

The cap looks to be more open, less pouch like...

Also, the gills look much different to those of wild collections.

That's all I'm tryna say. They look cool as fuck regardless.


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:hitler::mushroom2:angulospora:heart:subaeruginosa:heart:subsecotioides:heart:tasmaniana:mushroom2::hitler:


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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: RogerTheRetard]
    #26567799 -

Ah the case on my first caerulescens tray in to FC triched out. Very odd I usually only see trich form on the sides below the surface after a few weeks in FC
Y’all are kickin ass tho! Excellent work!

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Astoriensis]
    #26570748 -

Astoriensis said:
With the weraroa, would it make sense to put plates in 30C temperature? or even a bit higher if i can manage it, for stratification?


Give it time my weraroa germed like 4-5 weeks in room temps. Didn't even know if what germed was it until I saw it growing on cardboard. Nice rhizo growth.





I did put my weraroa agar plates on a 30C heater for a while, at least I think the previous round I did. Maybe my current round was done better and I can try that again.

I do have a culture of weraroa coming but it is unknown if it's subsecotioid. Will try to check that from the original grower.

Yeah it shouldn't need stratification I think something happened to it in terms of temp swing.

I'm excited to apparently have a whole series of monokaryons of caerulescens var. weilii!

It wasn't really planned but I started to properly streak my spores I guess out of curiosity and for practice. Sought my ass off for clamp connections but could not find any.
I now have them transfered in sets of 3 to investigate mating.

It would be interesting to also germinate another variety of caerulescens (I should have at least 2 others) and try to mate them.

Also my pseudoaztecorum looks well on supplemented straw pellets. It was my first time with straw pellets and I think they are not in the bags that I gave the most added water and are thus on the dry side. But I'm happy to have figured out the right amount of water to add so quickly for my particular pellets. :laugh:

My fancy martha system should be finished in a couple of days too, so exciting.

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Solipsis]
    #26570761 -

those look awsum man


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PANAEOLUS FRUITING MADE SIMPLE


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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: jcm4620] * 1
    #26579802 -

Heya guys-- I've finally got a Zapotecorum pint of WBS 100% colonized and ready to spawn-- :pipesmoke:

My question: what would be the best ratio be of pasteurized straw pellet/verm sub to my pint of WBS?

I had originally planned on using a shoebox, but that was intended with a full quart jar of spawn, and I lost them to contamination.
So presuming I get a smaller container that will make the total depth no more than 3" deep combined, would a quart of sub be OK with the pint of WBS? That would make a 2:1 sub/spawn ratio.

Or should I go with a smaller container and try and make it an even 1:1 sub/spawn?

Really want to get this right, as I've lost several spawn jars to contams over the past 2 months -- all my bad, but this is my first good Zap so I want to set it up the best I can for a successful result--

Edit: Here's a pic I just took:
(sorry it's a blue tinted jar)

Edited by coAsTal (04/05/20 03:40 PM)

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: coAsTal] * 1
    #26581443 -

Quote:
Or should I go with a smaller container and try and make it an even 1:1 sub/spawn?



I would do multiple small jars(no smaller than a half pint) to increase the  chances of one of them surviving consolidation.

IME 1:1 is the best ratio for this. Also, I found that mixing the spawn and substrate can lead to trich problems because of the damage the process of mixing inflicts on the spawn's incredibly slow myc. Because of this I prefer the layering method.

Having said all of that, I have never had success with exotics while using WBS( I used a millet/milo mix). For some reason it would always trich out after about a month. I swapped back to rye berries and it helped a lot but still not enough. It could all just be in my prep tho.


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My Trade Lists

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: mycorry]
    #26582915 -

mycorry said:
Quote:
Or should I go with a smaller container and try and make it an even 1:1 sub/spawn?



I would do multiple small jars(no smaller than a half pint) to increase the  chances of one of them surviving consolidation.

IME 1:1 is the best ratio for this. Also, I found that mixing the spawn and substrate can lead to trich problems because of the damage the process of mixing inflicts on the spawn's incredibly slow myc. Because of this I prefer the layering method.

Having said all of that, I have never had success with exotics while using WBS( I used a millet/milo mix). For some reason it would always trich out after about a month. I swapped back to rye berries and it helped a lot but still not enough. It could all just be in my prep tho.



Thank you very much for your advice--

I have in fact also got a half pint of straw/verm right now nocked from a zap agar wedge-- it looks wispy, but seems to be coming along. I hoped to use that as spawn for a larger container of pellet straw/verm once it's 100%.
I only used the WBS at the time because it was handy and I already was using the agar plate for some larger straw experiments I was conducting (they all contammed unfortunately).

So what I'm taking from your view is that I might be safest to kinda case the grains with a layer of sub-- basically laying out the pint of WBS on the bottom of the container and covering it completely with my sub (ws intending to use pasteurized straw pellets/verm)-- then, presuming it colonizes well, I could "formally" case with pete or cactus soil for fruiting.

Does that sound about right?

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: coAsTal] * 1
    #26583651 -

basically yes. The process goes like this:

-Knock jar of spawn to loosen grain
-Remove lid and pour spawn into a bowl
-gently break up larger clumps(it doesn't have to be perfectly unclumped)
-put a small amount of substrate in your jar of choice
-pour a layer of grain spawn on top of the substrate
-Add another layer of substrate
-etc...
-make sure no grain are exposed to the air above the top layer.
-Case
-Cross fingers for 4 months

I like to use many thin layers instead of a few thick ones. The several thin layers helps the myc reach the substrate faster. Once the substrate is colonized you are mostly in the clear UNLESS you prepped your straw wrong. Before I was prepping straw right I would sometimes get trich outbreaks weeks after full consolidation and I couldn't figure out why for a while. Be sure to soak that straw overnight in some slightly soapy water to germinate those endospores, then PC kills them.

After that you should be good a for a long time. My first jars fruited for me continuously for about 1.5 years and they were pint jars. Granted they never produced full mature fruit so they never really got a chance to spend themselves.


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My Trade Lists

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: mycorry]
    #26583740 -

Excellent!
Thank you my friend-- Zap-tastic advice

:vibin:

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: coAsTal]
    #26583839 -

Heya!

Not sure if inski is here or if someone else could help but he said aucklandiae is a very difficult species.

Is there anything in particular I should know about to get it to germinate? :smile:

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Solipsis]
    #26592614 -

Hey solipsis. If I remember correctly inski found them difficult to fruit and they only did so after applying a casing layer taken from the collection site. They likely need certain microbes to fruit. I’d have thought germination and spawn run should be straight forward. Are the spores fresh?

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: bobwastaken]
    #26593764 -

bob, I wish I had the link, but I've read about a method where you take soil from the collection site
and then use it to grow out whatever microbes where there. I've always been fascinated by this idea.


--------------------
Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens


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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Asura]
    #26597673 -

Hmm i see thnx for the info / letting me know what inski said. Hopefully they aren't extremely picky about the microbes but if collecting soil etc from its habitat is out of the question then you have no idea where to find similar ones in a similar habitat but on the other side of the planet...

Yes using soil is an interesting idea, it also ties in well to the whole landslide mushroom life cycle simulation if you get what i mean. :smile:

I've germinated a whole bunch of caerulescens var. weilii monokaryons and am doing tests right now to check mating between them, mostly for practice and curiosity.
The dish on the right was streaked and on the left is one of the plates of monokaryons taken from that plate at an early stage.



Thought of an experimental method of making a cross with other varieties of caerulescens such as var. villarrealiae, particularly to make an MS culture that is crossed:

Basically to grow a plate full of monokaryon of variety A and a plate full of nicely spreaded MS of variety B myc, both grown on not all that thick agar... and then putting the monokaryotic colonized agar upside down on the MS plate.. lol.
If I understand correctly this should cause di-mon matings basically between the monokaryon and every dikaryon that has formed on the MS plate. Not that i would expect a mirror copy of the MS plate sectors but that doesnt matter ofc.

Another handy thing is that if the monokaryon blocks the bottom MS myc you can confirm success if myc surfaces and has clamp connections indicating dikaryon.

The advantage of course would be that you could directly use it to make an MS grow and see results of various strains to select from. With the caveat that the varieties may have close resemblance and you shouldnt expect to see trait effects in an F1. Still, seems like neat experiment.
And interested to see what happens, whether it works as it should based on taxonomy.

Also, can't wait for my pseudoaztecorum to finish colonization and fruit it in my new martha system. Do i have to wait for consolidation/ripening?

Plus, finally got weraroa culture <3 - its subsecotioid like shown above. I have dishes with secotioid weraroa inoculated that may still germinate as it can apparently take quite a while :smile:
Fascinated by angulaspora too.

Edited by Solipsis (04/13/20 10:53 AM)

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Solipsis]
    #26605789 -

So glad to have found this thread. I started from page one and read the whole thing, was not disappointed. You guys are killing it. I have P. zapotecorum on agar right now. I believe it looks normal. By the sounds of things Rye berries, to a pasteurized sub of straw, coir, verm and manure, cased with pasteurized jiffy mix should work? I welcome any tips or pointers. 



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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Ganodermalucidum] * 2
    #26606281 -

My Caerulescens South Carolina are on flush #3

Here is the only photo I took of the second flush~



Unfortunately, with the third flush almost every fruit is damaged in several different ways.



Nothing has changed since the first flush from a cultural standpoint. I did everything the same. My guesses of what this damage was caused by are:

1:Fighting mold. I just discovered that every casing I have ever made has had miracle grow in it thanks to Home Depot's peat moss bags. Casing with nutrition = great home for mold. That combined with the fact that casings are already hard to manage with exotics due to their slow growth.

2: Potentially FAE issues. I think that maybe repeatedly exposing micropore tape to moisture then evaporating on a daily basis may hinder its overall air permiability leading to the black spots, melting, and fuzzy looking caps.

3: Too much sand/perlite in the casing.
Maybe these are getting too scratched up as pins pushing through the casing. This one seems far fetched because if it was true it would have affected the first two flushes.

What are your guys thoughts/opinions on the causes?

*I have several colonized bags of the same culture ready to try out different tub setups and casings so I wont be scraping these and applying new.


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My Trade Lists

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: mycorry]
    #26606599 -

Way cool bro !! Good job

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Astoriensis]
    #26608070 -

So I have some "tamps" on agar...or so It seems...
There's a lot of that tamp iridescence that I can see, but it was unusally cottony myc (not like any contam I've seen before) and there's some what looks like stones forming in/around but it's really odd. 

These images are probably not good enough to assess, I'll try to take better ones but I don't know where the fuck I put my loupe.


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What are all these leaves doing in my mouth?

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Re: thanks for fixing this Asura [Re: Frank Zappotecorum]
    #26608071 -

Oh, also the myc blued a little bit after I opened it up in the SAB...


--------------------
What are all these leaves doing in my mouth?

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