bluescreen said:

I've got my first shoebox of pans coming in, these are at 5 days since spawn. Faht's coir/verm/worm castings mix plus 222 ferts, it's cooled off a lot here so running around 19C temp wise.

I'm going Baba style "monotub", while doing shoebox and Faht's magic mix, so not really following a tek?

Question is about casing. I know Baba goes both ways, general idea is pro casing. It's hard to get peat where I am if you don't want a pallet of it. I have coir, verm, sand and calcium hydroxide. Also have a bag of reptile stuff coming that's apparently peat and sand.

Any recommendations how to proceed when we go all white would be all-right

---

I hate bumping but am very curious what to do. These will be full white tomorrow or Tuesday, I might case half with whatever and leave the rest.

Also it seems pan cyan myc is active so if I can't fruit these fuckers I'll backdoor this shit (on future grows, no fruiting).

bluescreen said:

bluescreen said:

I've got my first shoebox of pans coming in, these are at 5 days since spawn. Faht's coir/verm/worm castings mix plus 222 ferts, it's cooled off a lot here so running around 19C temp wise.

I'm going Baba style "monotub", while doing shoebox and Faht's magic mix, so not really following a tek?

Question is about casing. I know Baba goes both ways, general idea is pro casing. It's hard to get peat where I am if you don't want a pallet of it. I have coir, verm, sand and calcium hydroxide. Also have a bag of reptile stuff coming that's apparently peat and sand.

Any recommendations how to proceed when we go all white would be all-right

---

I hate bumping but am very curious what to do. These will be full white tomorrow or Tuesday, I might case half with whatever and leave the rest.

Also it seems pan cyan myc is active so if I can't fruit these fuckers I'll backdoor this shit (on future grows, no fruiting).

---

Casing only half of the surface is a good experiment. Curious to see what happens. Looks like the surface is still quite moist, if you want to try uncased then try more FAE next time, since the temps are down you could leave the lid off for a couple of nights and don't mist until the first knots are forming. It's easier if temperatures are in the mid 20s IME.

You only need calcium hydroxide when you use peat as it is acidic. Curious to see the reptile stuffs ingredients list. If it's a peat sand mix then it's worth a try to use it for casing.


I am so happy that it is getting warmer here and my spawn is finally getting somewhere. Another 4 to 5 days I guess and I can spawn the first tub. Will go all uncased this season.

JoeTherapist said:

@Baba

Found 2 TTBVI plates from July that I can transfer from. They are a little dry but not gone and some of the “better” plates. I don’t know if you remember but you encouraged me to give it a shot to get fruit for a clean culture instead of giving up on it and I had already thrown what I thought was all of the plates away. I am waiting on some prints to come in the mail and just found these plates and figured I should follow your advice and try again.

I only have high nutrition plates poured but I’m about to make more agar. Should I pour just WA or both WA and low nute?

I have to put away my cat when I use my FFU so I will take pics of the plates when I pour my new agar plates.

Also I know it’s directed at Baba because they are the one that bright up trying the top fruit idea, but anyone is welcome to join the conversation you all have tons of good ideas.

---

JoeTherapist said:

@Baba

Found 2 TTBVI plates from July that I can transfer from. They are a little dry but not gone and some of the “better” plates. I don’t know if you remember but you encouraged me to give it a shot to get fruit for a clean culture instead of giving up on it and I had already thrown what I thought was all of the plates away. I am waiting on some prints to come in the mail and just found these plates and figured I should follow your advice and try again.

I only have high nutrition plates poured but I’m about to make more agar. Should I pour just WA or both WA and low nute?

I have to put away my cat when I use my FFU so I will take pics of the plates when I pour my new agar plates.

Also I know it’s directed at Baba because they are the one that bright up trying the top fruit idea, but anyone is welcome to join the conversation you all have tons of good ideas.

---

skrimplet said:

Is this pan myc...? smells like verm, manure and mushrooms. Nocd by multispore. I thought it was mold but then I saw faht's myc climbing up his jar and was like holy shit that looks like my "moldy" puck.

---

bloodssonnew said:

Mixing the hearts with mullet in my eyes seems like a bad idea I believe they have different pc time requirements to get sterile n if u ran millet for ryes time ud end up with every millet burst of overcooked is think though I haven't tryed and is just my opinion

---

Baba Yaga said:

That sounds like an awesome source. I'd love to get my hands on some affordable millet just to do something different but it's hopeless to get
some here, it's just oats or whole barley for me. Wonder if whole rye comes with it's husk or if the term refers to not being crushed?

IMO it would make most sense to use millet as a master grain and do G2G to benefit from the more inoculation points. I don't have first hand
experience with mixed grain....could be a good thing but don't know. Mixing grain for a balanced nutrient source is overdoing it imho.

I put a thin layer of fine verm and BRF or other flours on top of my grains covering the whole top and inoculate with LC. It does catch quite a bit of
the liquid and recovers faster for me than just pouring it into the grain. Once the top has fully colonized (or earlier) I give it a shake and the jar
finishes fast. That way I do have a second change to spot contam if it got in during inoculation and I have a bit of control over when a jar finishes
depending on when I shake it up. You can see the verm in the photo I posted above.

---