SupaThaRipper said:

On nichromes note, and considering you don't have a scope, I say just send it dude. It's better to fail than to have never tried at all.

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Stipe-n Cap said:

You don't just produce a monokaryon by accident. I'm not an egotistical authority either, nor am I passive aggressive. ; )


Portion of a scalloped plate without visible growth:




Bacillus rods meshed into the mycelial plane.

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I wouldn't know, and want to learn. Since it seems to be different opinions on the matter I would appreciate your thoughts on what my next move should be

If more transfers is my only move then which plate and from where, would you suggest I take them from?

Plate 1



Plate 2

SupaThaRipper said:

People produce monokaryons accidentally all the time upon early transfers through grab and drag. Total bs Stipe cmon

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Hmmm, what if I do both? I'll do some transfers from both T1 plates before I send to grains? Feel free to give advice on where to take transfers from as well

Blopblop said:

does this T-1 this plate look ok to you guys? I made some transfers for good measure. It’s nats, or whatever we call those now.🤡

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ThurmanMurman said:

Blopblop said:

does this T-1 this plate look ok to you guys? I made some transfers for good measure. It’s nats, or whatever we call those now.🤡

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Im thinking that dark triangle at 9:30 is something in the background and not on the plate?

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Phaethon said:

Some unsolicited parafilm advice: cut and/or fold it so you have a 1-inch (~2 cm) strip to stretch and wrap. It only needs to cover the gap between lid and dish; a little covering the top or bottom helps it to stay on, but a lot just makes it hard to see much of the plate.

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SupaThaRipper said:

❤️❤️❤️❤️

And I still love you Stipe although we disagree too much

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ThurmanMurman said:

ThurmanMurman said:

I was hunting for tea tins to make no pours easier. Ive got 90mm petris, and one of these PP5 screw tops from Dollar Tree is gonna work out great. The bottom is tapered, so I put a HG container in the bottom to occupy enough space to allow the petri to sit flat without jamming in there.

7 plates to a container aint bad. 🤘

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A lot of condensation...better off letting them cool to room temp in the PC maybe? Gonna let them sit in front of the ffu, but it didn't do much good last time, even after 12hrs. Might just have to deal with the water as I use them.

Might even just go back to pouring, idk.

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SupaThaRipper said:

A lot of times simply just changing a food source can get them to really pop. After you use LME fora bit then try potato dextrose and then back to LME again. Just my 2 cents but great work!

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Also, not all malt extracts are created equal - there's light-DME which is 100% barley, Wheat DME - 55/45 to 65/35 wheat/barley dependent on manufacturer, as well as Rye DME which iirc was around 20/80 rye/barley, although I haven't seen it in quite a while...

Also, watch out for darker malt extracts like "golden" - they contain a lot more carmelized sugars that make agar darker amber, so if you want light colored or "clearer" plates, stick with either "pilsen light" or "extra light" DME's from either Breiss or Muntons.  My preference is Muntons - they have better conversion in their product and less protein making for a clearer solution, Briess has a habit of being slightly hazy even with "cold crashing" the solution after boiling.

I always have some Muntons extra-light on hand for bottle conditioning my homebrew, so that's what I typically use, although I have been experimenting with Briess Bavarian Wheat - it's surprisingly no worse haze-wise than their regular light dme and the myc seems to like it so far...

Just my 2 cents

Carnonos said:

SupaThaRipper said:

A lot of times simply just changing a food source can get them to really pop. After you use LME fora bit then try potato dextrose and then back to LME again. Just my 2 cents but great work!

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Also, not all malt extracts are created equal - there's light-DME which is 100% barley, Wheat DME - 55/45 to 65/35 wheat/barley dependent on manufacturer, as well as Rye DME which iirc was around 20/80 rye/barley, although I haven't seen it in quite a while...

Also, watch out for darker malt extracts like "golden" - they contain a lot more carmelized sugars that make agar darker amber, so if you want light colored or "clearer" plates, stick with either "pilsen light" or "extra light" DME's from either Breiss or Muntons.  My preference is Muntons - they have better conversion in their product and less protein making for a clearer solution, Briess has a habit of being slightly hazy even with "cold crashing" the solution after boiling.

I always have some Muntons extra-light on hand for bottle conditioning my homebrew, so that's what I typically use, although I have been experimenting with Briess Bavarian Wheat - it's surprisingly no worse haze-wise than their regular light dme and the myc seems to like it so far...

Just my 2 cents

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LadysKnight said:

Why not get off the bottle and keg that brew? I bottled my first batch of homebrew from a kit. It was surprisingly decent. But the bottling put me off. Eventually I got into all grain 10gal batches, corny kegs and keezers, with a tap/faucet in the kitchen.

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