Wedgie said:

WEZA x PAN IND01 I am loving how these are coming out...
but hmm, I dunno...

It seems normal for WEZA but fast-pins don't seem typical for INDO1 It's still pretty early though my friends 🥳
So I will bring food 🍔 you guys get the drinks while we wait 🍻

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Love the funky casing

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:

Updates have been posted to my journal:

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/29702148#29702148

I'm really pushing the limits of what pans can tolerate with this one.

After pasteurization, my casing only showed a pH of 7.2. Either my meter is wrong or I didn't add enough hydroxide. Only one way to find out.

Also, I think my substrate was a bit on the wet side leading to less vigorous colonization.

Either way, you can't un-ring a bell so I'm running it to see what happens.

I'm planning to spawn more jars tomorrow, so there will always be another battle. Hopefully after a few more runs I'll have a method that is repeatable and consistent which will help me test variables better.

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Your reader is probably not accurate.  60ml is about 1 tsp of lime per dry cup of peat and that’s plenty.  I wouldn’t add any more

If you want a true accurate ph reading, you need to get a somewhat nice digital reader that comes with calibration liquids (7 and 4 ph for example) and calibrate it often.  But if all you’re using it for is the casing, I’d just stick with the 1 tsp per cup of peat and call it good.. it hasn’t failed me in many years of using the same recipe


BVI tray that keeps giving up the goods.  Fifth flush


It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad. 

The ziplocks are sitting directly on the pad.  My question about it is whether it’s the substrate/surface alone that needs to be at pan fruiting temps or does the actual air inside the ziplock need to be at that temp as well?  I assumed the air would follow close behind the sub temp.

There’s a thermostat with probe connected to the pad.  The only way (at least starting out) to fully control the sub temp with the probe is to stick the probe end fully into one of the subs



I have the temp set to 81F and there’s a 3 degree buffer so when the temp target is hit, it shuts off until the temp reaches 78F.  So far it seems to be working great. 

I’ve used a laser temp gun to read the surface of other ziplocks when I’ve had the heat turned off for like 12 hours and the ziplocks without the pad are reading significantly lower than the ones on the pad.. which are reading right in that target temp of 78-81F

Knowing that the temp of the air inside the bag moves 2.5F lower than the sub temp is useful because then I can set the probe target temp at say, 78.5F and I wouldn’t have to stick the probe directly into the substrate of one of the three trays. Not that I mind putting the probe into the substrate.  I sanitized it and it’s metal

I lasered the pad itself and doesn’t get above 90F so I’m not too worried about overheating the bottom part of the sub that’s closest to the pad.  But I’ve only had this set up for a couple days so I guess I’ll see if there’s anything like that that pops up

fahtster said:

It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad. 

There’s a thermostat with probe connected to the pad.  The only way (at least starting out) to fully control the sub temp with the probe is to stick the probe end fully into one of the subs


I have the temp set to 81F and there’s a 3 degree buffer so when the temp target is hit, it shuts off until the temp reaches 78F.  So far it seems to be working great. 

I’ve used a laser temp gun to read the surface of other ziplocks when I’ve had the heat turned off for like 12 hours and the ziplocks without the pad are reading significantly lower than the ones on the pad.. which are reading right in that target temp of 78-81F

Knowing that the temp of the air inside the bag moves 2.5F lower than the sub temp is useful because then I can set the probe target temp at say, 78.5F and I wouldn’t have to stick the probe directly into the substrate of one of the three trays. Not that I mind putting the probe into the substrate.  I sanitized it and it’s metal

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fahtster said:

It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad.

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shroboo said:

Is evaporation a problem with the heating pad and the ziplocks? Would you rehydrate while fruiting or between flushes?

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Baba Yaga said:

fahtster said:

It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad.

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How cold does it get in the room? Temps ranges of between 12-20C (night/day) wold still work here but growth speed was diminish to almost that of regular cubes.

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fahtster said:

Baba Yaga said:

fahtster said:

It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad.

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How cold does it get in the room? Temps ranges of between 12-20C (night/day) wold still work here but growth speed was diminish to almost that of regular cubes.

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It can get really cold in the middle of winter but I do have an individual room wall heater.  The problem is that in order to keep the room in the mid 70’s, the heater pretty much runs constantly.  This gets expensive and the fan on the heater running continuously throws off the fae for the bags drying them out.

The goal is to keep the room in the 60’s while maintaining the pan sub temps in that 78-81F range.  This will still cause the heater to run in the room but not nearly as much.

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Baba Yaga said:

fahtster said:

Baba Yaga said:

fahtster said:

It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad.

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How cold does it get in the room? Temps ranges of between 12-20C (night/day) wold still work here but growth speed was diminish to almost that of regular cubes.

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It can get really cold in the middle of winter but I do have an individual room wall heater.  The problem is that in order to keep the room in the mid 70’s, the heater pretty much runs constantly.  This gets expensive and the fan on the heater running continuously throws off the fae for the bags drying them out.

The goal is to keep the room in the 60’s while maintaining the pan sub temps in that 78-81F range.  This will still cause the heater to run in the room but not nearly as much.

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Yeah, costs of heating are the reason why I shut down during winter. I can manage to grow from mid spring to mid autumn. I'm curious to see how it
works out for you fruiting in the mid 60s without any addons just because your grows are so consistently well performing which makes it intresting to
see how changing one variable such as temperature would reveal it's influence more accurately I assume opposed to trying this with grows that
are mediocre and inconsistent or have you already had your share with fruiting in these temp ranges? Not trying to tell you what to do but since
I had OK results between 53F and 68F I'm really curious about your experience.

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I’ve fruited in the low 70’s np.  It’s definitely slower but I haven’t tried lower than that.  This is really just to get a feel for whether or not it’s even a viable option.  The real test will be in about a month when the temps really drop outside.  I do think that as long as I keep the substrate itself in the proper range, I won’t have too many problems.  I’ll be running a humidifier in the room  as well to help keep the rh near 60% in the room.  The only thing I foresee rn being an issue to contend with is condensation.  We’ll see what happens

Baba Yaga said:

My 2 cents:

Plate 1 has already sporulating mold on it. Transfer from plate 2-4 leading edge and put straight through a cabin and put some on low nute agar and or
pucks to keep options open. All the plates have this amber discoloration which is either a reaction to mold or bacteria or both. Well as plate one
shows there is definitely a pin mold at work. The other ones seem to be affected as well. All cultures "sweat" around the center which is an
indicator that there is probably mold running along, you can see a secondary growth pattern too. You could also try a hot pour over the plates
once you have taken the transfers which might help with the mold.


So,

• take transfers to low nute and or puks and some through a cabin but .
  
  
• Try a hot pour over one or two plates (choose from plate 2-4) I actually think in this situation it would be your best shot.
  
  
• Keep any remaining original plates around to see what might pop up later on.
  
  
• I would discard plate 1
  

This is water agar right? I might be wrong since I haven't used it in a while, just seems like a lot of growth for no nutrition. Are you using just plain agar powder?

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Lo-Z said:

That would be awesome, though im not sure i have access to the market place yet because im a wee baby.

I just took 4-5 cabins, 1 trap door, 2 trenches and 6 straight to low nute transfers and 2 plates straight hot pour.

We'll see 🤷‍♂️

Practice is practice, If i can clean it awesome. If not it buys my time to get to the market place for a spore print.

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JoeTherapist said:

I’m doing the exact same thing with my TTBVI, while waiting for some spores! I am sure someone will reach out if you ask on here. If I had any I would send you some pan prints. But there are a ton of amazing people, I’m sure you can find some.

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arlo.arlo said:

Lo-Z said:

That would be awesome, though im not sure i have access to the market place yet because im a wee baby.

I just took 4-5 cabins, 1 trap door, 2 trenches and 6 straight to low nute transfers and 2 plates straight hot pour.

We'll see 🤷‍♂️

Practice is practice, If i can clean it awesome. If not it buys my time to get to the market place for a spore print.

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Whats the strain?

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I would have offered but my newest prints are all around 3 years old.