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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Wedgie] * 1
    #29702379 -

Wedgie said:

WEZA x PAN IND01 I am loving how these are coming out...
but hmm, I dunno...
:aweshit:
It seems normal for WEZA but fast-pins don't seem typical for INDO1 It's still pretty early though my friends 🥳
So I will bring food 🍔 you guys get the drinks while we wait 🍻



Love the funky casing:mushroom2:


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It’s not personal

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: idontknow1] * 2
    #29702478 -

Updates have been posted to my journal:

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/29702148#29702148

I'm really pushing the limits of what pans can tolerate with this one.

After pasteurization, my casing only showed a pH of 7.2. Either my meter is wrong or I didn't add enough hydroxide. Only one way to find out.

Also, I think my substrate was a bit on the wet side leading to less vigorous colonization.

Either way, you can't un-ring a bell so I'm running it to see what happens.

I'm planning to spawn more jars tomorrow, so there will always be another battle. Hopefully after a few more runs I'll have a method that is repeatable and consistent which will help me test variables better.


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I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 4
    #29702481 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Updates have been posted to my journal:

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/29702148#29702148

I'm really pushing the limits of what pans can tolerate with this one.

After pasteurization, my casing only showed a pH of 7.2. Either my meter is wrong or I didn't add enough hydroxide. Only one way to find out.

Also, I think my substrate was a bit on the wet side leading to less vigorous colonization.

Either way, you can't un-ring a bell so I'm running it to see what happens.

I'm planning to spawn more jars tomorrow, so there will always be another battle. Hopefully after a few more runs I'll have a method that is repeatable and consistent which will help me test variables better.



Your reader is probably not accurate.  60ml is about 1 tsp of lime per dry cup of peat and that’s plenty.  I wouldn’t add any more

If you want a true accurate ph reading, you need to get a somewhat nice digital reader that comes with calibration liquids (7 and 4 ph for example) and calibrate it often.  But if all you’re using it for is the casing, I’d just stick with the 1 tsp per cup of peat and call it good.. it hasn’t failed me in many years of using the same recipe


BVI tray that keeps giving up the goods.  Fifth flush


It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad. 

The ziplocks are sitting directly on the pad.  My question about it is whether it’s the substrate/surface alone that needs to be at pan fruiting temps or does the actual air inside the ziplock need to be at that temp as well?  I assumed the air would follow close behind the sub temp.

There’s a thermostat with probe connected to the pad.  The only way (at least starting out) to fully control the sub temp with the probe is to stick the probe end fully into one of the subs



I have the temp set to 81F and there’s a 3 degree buffer so when the temp target is hit, it shuts off until the temp reaches 78F.  So far it seems to be working great. 

I’ve used a laser temp gun to read the surface of other ziplocks when I’ve had the heat turned off for like 12 hours and the ziplocks without the pad are reading significantly lower than the ones on the pad.. which are reading right in that target temp of 78-81F

Knowing that the temp of the air inside the bag moves 2.5F lower than the sub temp is useful because then I can set the probe target temp at say, 78.5F and I wouldn’t have to stick the probe directly into the substrate of one of the three trays. Not that I mind putting the probe into the substrate.  I sanitized it and it’s metal

I lasered the pad itself and doesn’t get above 90F so I’m not too worried about overheating the bottom part of the sub that’s closest to the pad.  But I’ve only had this set up for a couple days so I guess I’ll see if there’s anything like that that pops up

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29702557 -

fahtster said:
It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad. 

There’s a thermostat with probe connected to the pad.  The only way (at least starting out) to fully control the sub temp with the probe is to stick the probe end fully into one of the subs


I have the temp set to 81F and there’s a 3 degree buffer so when the temp target is hit, it shuts off until the temp reaches 78F.  So far it seems to be working great. 

I’ve used a laser temp gun to read the surface of other ziplocks when I’ve had the heat turned off for like 12 hours and the ziplocks without the pad are reading significantly lower than the ones on the pad.. which are reading right in that target temp of 78-81F

Knowing that the temp of the air inside the bag moves 2.5F lower than the sub temp is useful because then I can set the probe target temp at say, 78.5F and I wouldn’t have to stick the probe directly into the substrate of one of the three trays. Not that I mind putting the probe into the substrate.  I sanitized it and it’s metal




Is evaporation a problem with the heating pad and the ziplocks? Would you rehydrate while fruiting or between flushes?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29702589 -

fahtster said:
It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad.




How cold does it get in the room? Temps ranges of between 12-20C (night/day) wold still work here but growth speed was diminish to almost that of regular cubes.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #29702612 -

Thanks faht! I got the 1tsp per cup ratio from your tek. I didn't use quite as much verm because I didn't want to eyeball an extra cup so I did 2 quarts instead.

I did not use a bag to shake, to my own turmoil. Stiring the bucket released a death cloud right in my face. Definitely going to use one next time.


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I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29702648 -

shroboo said:
Is evaporation a problem with the heating pad and the ziplocks? Would you rehydrate while fruiting or between flushes?



Like I said, this is very new as I’ve only run it for a few days but that’s something I’ll be on the look out for.  The pad never gets above 90F which is about the highest temps at the height of summer but the probe is basically stuck into the sub all the way to the bottom so the sub itself never goes above 81F which is normal pan temps.  So, I’m not expecting crazy water loss but we’ll see.  I rehydrate between flushes anyhow.

Baba Yaga said:
fahtster said:
It’s starting to get cooler here and I want to run 6 trays during the winter.. 3 in the jcm and then 3 ziplocks.  I don’t want to have to heat the room tho so I’m trying out a reptile heating pad.




How cold does it get in the room? Temps ranges of between 12-20C (night/day) wold still work here but growth speed was diminish to almost that of regular cubes.



It can get really cold in the middle of winter but I do have an individual room wall heater.  The problem is that in order to keep the room in the mid 70’s, the heater pretty much runs constantly.  This gets expensive and the fan on the heater running continuously throws off the fae for the bags drying them out.

The goal is to keep the room in the 60’s while maintaining the pan sub temps in that 78-81F range.  This will still cause the heater to run in the room but not nearly as much.

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Thanks faht! I got the 1tsp per cup ratio from your tek. I didn't use quite as much verm because I didn't want to eyeball an extra cup so I did 2 quarts instead.

I did not use a bag to shake, to my own turmoil. Stiring the bucket released a death cloud right in my face. Definitely going to use one next time.



You can definitely vary the amount of verm np.. I’ve done 60/40 (what I used for cubes) and 50/50 (what I currently use for pans)

As far as the lime goes, I’ve used less as well (down to 1/2 tsp per cup of peat) and it works.  I did a lot of experimenting with lime amounts (that’s when I bought the digital ph reader) and what I found was that I didn’t like the way the myc wouldn’t grow into the casing some with lower amounts of lime.

Idk how you water your casing when you apply it but I basically flood the casing to the point of starting to pool.  I believe this is leeching off some of the lime from the casing and that water is being absorbed by the sub itself. 

What brought about me experimenting with it was that my buddy that grows pans a lot said that 1 tsp per cup was too much lime.  I had already been using the recipe successfully for years at this point and it worked great so I wanted to find out what happened when I used less and like I said, using less caused the myc to avoid growing into the casing at all.  I didn’t like that.  It left the casing loose on the surface and didn’t improve the flush at all.

So either pans like a higher ph in the casing or the heavy misting was diluting the lime down to where the myc likes it.  Either way, the 1 tsp per cup of peat works

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29702651 -

Good to know!

I normally mist the hell out of it when I apply the casing so it's pooling. I did not do it this time because I forgot. I'll do that now.


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Shop: Unfolding Nature Unfolding Nature: Being in the Implicate Order   Myyco.com Pan Cyan Liquid Culture For Sale   Original Sensible Seeds Bulk Cannabis Seeds   Mushroom-Hut Substrate Mix   Sporeworks.EU Spores for European Microscopy   MagicBag.co All-In-One Bags That Don't Suck   North Spore Bulk Substrate


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