strawboy said:

Anomalocaris said:

but thats a big temp range. I use sous-vide highly precise temp. So set water to 155f and then have a thermometer in the middle of the container. So should I do 1 hour strawboy style or 2 hours kloakk style?

---

That's the standard range for preserving beneficial microbes. I start the clock as soon as the core temp reaches 140f. I just use my stove top. If Kloakk's method uses a sous-vide then go with that because I have no experience with it. Also, if something goes wrong then we can blame him.

---

Asura said:

I don't have any binder clips, but I did have a bunch of coat hangers

This is with a 2.5 gallon bag.

---

Nice

Got a decent 2nd flush of a ttbvi that I revived from 1 year old dry grain


First flush woulda been nice but started dying back…



I think it was a hydration issue as I’m playing with initial water amounts to find the sweet spot

Some ziplocks.. weza red spore


And a couple later flush trays


Starting to feel like I’m getting the ziplocks dialed in

strawboy said:

That's the standard range for preserving beneficial microbes. I start the clock as soon as the core temp reaches 140f. I just use my stove top. If Kloakk's method uses a sous-vide then go with that because I have no experience with it. Also, if something goes wrong then we can blame him.

---

Bruh

the_chosen_one said:

---

Bruuuuh

Anomalocaris said:

but thats a big temp range. I use sous-vide highly precise temp. So set water to 155f and then have a thermometer in the middle of the container. So should I do 1 hour strawboy style or 2 hours kloakk style?

---

Kloakk said:

If I had to use a completely closed off vessel like a jar or vakuum bags to submerge the substrate in a sous vide setup that would be a lot of time for non beneficial anaerobic bacteria to get a foothold and I do not want that

If that was my only pasteurizing option I would spread out the substrate in more jars or vacuum bags to quickly reach the core temperature and only hold it for 1-2 hours before pulling them out and provide more oxygen even though that won't allow for much of an increased population of beneficial bacteria.

---

So my ass should be covered

And if you like perfection the only way to really know what works best, you just have to do both. Split the casing between 2 or more jars, pull half of the jars after 1 hour and the rest after 2 hours. My guess is that you won't see any difference, but there's only one way to find out.

Kloakk said:

strawboy said:

That's the standard range for preserving beneficial microbes. I start the clock as soon as the core temp reaches 140f. I just use my stove top. If Kloakk's method uses a sous-vide then go with that because I have no experience with it. Also, if something goes wrong then we can blame him.

---

Bruh

the_chosen_one said:

---

Bruuuuh

Anomalocaris said:

but thats a big temp range. I use sous-vide highly precise temp. So set water to 155f and then have a thermometer in the middle of the container. So should I do 1 hour strawboy style or 2 hours kloakk style?

---

Here's a paragraph of what I wrote when you asked in the qq thread:

Kloakk said:

If I had to use a completely closed off vessel like a jar or vakuum bags to submerge the substrate in a sous vide setup that would be a lot of time for non beneficial anaerobic bacteria to get a foothold and I do not want that

If that was my only pasteurizing option I would spread out the substrate in more jars or vacuum bags to quickly reach the core temperature and only hold it for 1-2 hours before pulling them out and provide more oxygen even though that won't allow for much of an increased population of beneficial bacteria.

---

So my ass should be covered

And if you like perfection the only way to really know what works best, you just have to do both. Split the casing between 2 or more jars, pull half of the jars after 1 hour and the rest after 2 hours. My guess is that you won't see any difference, but there's only one way to find out.

---

I will still hold you responsible for any failure that may occur

Anomalocaris said:

I will still hold you responsible for any failure that may occur

---

R4cMan said:

Fathster: i dont get how you get result like that in bags? I thought pans grow tall with small caps when low fae?
so there must be enought fae,..you have any fan in the room? is there more maintenance with spraying to keep humidity in bags?

---

This is my current template for the 1/4” holes I punch into my bags… they’re definitely not plug n play grow chambers.  I’m at the mercy of ambient temps and rh more-so than someone with a tent and controller. 

These are in addition to 16g syringe needle holes put through the bags…


So I first mark the three middle holes..


Then move the template up and mark just the top..


The side holes, I’ll offset a bit forward because that puts them in the middle of the tray when it’s in the bag and the bag is pulled up


Those side holes are my point of getting too dry right now and I’ll probably skip them in my next run.. at least for this time of year. 

Part of dialing them in is the addition and subtraction of these holes.  The syringe hole amount matters too.. you can roll the bag up tighter which will bring the lines of holes closer together and make the holes closer or further apart etc.  so, being consistent with that is important. 

Then all that can be thrown off or used to adjust with hydration amounts.. how much you soak the casing when you put it on, because the sub will absorb a lot of that water much like a cube sub if you mist the surface heavily between flushed. 

The timing of certain things like when to case after full colonization can be used to dial them in.. knowing the pin times on whatever variety you’re growing can be useful for that timing.  For example, if I’m growing ttbvi and the culture is healthy, I can be confident that the tray is going start knotting within 2-3 days after full colonization.  And just because it’s not in the chamber, doesn’t mean it’s not making that switch..
I can wait the 2-3 days after full colonization and see when it starts producing knots with the tray lid on and then case and put into the bag.. this reduces the drying out of the sub before fruiting.

Keeping certain things consistent is also important when dialing these in like sub recipe, which is why I love the CV+ with worm castings.. it’s the exact same composition every single time.  The other constant is the fan schedule (right now anyway).. 3 minutes every 2 hours.

Then when you got it all dialed in to where things are going good, the ambient weather changes and you need to make adjustments.  So, it’s really a constant dialing in.  Then there’s culture health… heavily dirty cultures do not fare well in ziplocks.

I’m always keeping this broad range of factors in mind… I’m not a wizard or magical where things just work for me.. I’m just a detailed-oriented, big-picture kinda guy

Anomalocaris said:

Mr kloakk how come you only use 85% for the humidity in your dreamers? You said it then peaks at like 92-93% but shouldnt we aim for much higher humidity like 97-98% for pinning?

---

strawboy said:

Anomalocaris said:

Mr kloakk how come you only use 85% for the humidity in your dreamers? You said it then peaks at like 92-93% but shouldnt we aim for much higher humidity like 97-98% for pinning?

---

He's gonna ruin your grow. Never trust a Scandinavian when pans are on the line.

---

@Anomalcaris, Fath summed it up good, I want there to be good evaporation and air pockets that easily can exchange the air and create good conditions for pins, and I don't want pooling, that is for zapo's

I also agree that smaller grains will give better pinset, but often enough also smaller fruits, so I am now trying wheat+canary seeds at a 5:1 ratio, will spawn three jars with KomodoXBVI tomorrow, if they make it to spores I'll report back

Anomalocaris said:

Well its a dreamer tub I just press a button its not hard at all to tweak things. Tree frog said the caps will develop nicer near 85% rh but for pinning much higher rh are required

---