callmehippie said:

Gonna try this cheap 4L rubber maid cereal storage container. For my next round of 90mm no pours.  This will double the amount of plates you could do in one of those stainless canisters.




The container itself is pp5 but the lid isn't so I'll replace that with some  foil.

Maybe stuff some paper towels or foil or somthin in the middle of the columns to help stabilize them a little bit more but after that they basically have no room to move around at all.


Each container holds 36 plates at a time and you can fit two

of them perfectly in a 23 presto. There's a trivet in the bottom but it's not raised at all. There's a very limited amount of room left if you did want to raise it just a little.

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Update.  The cereal containers worked out perfectly. 72 no poures done in one go.  I stuffed the container full of paper towels and all the little gaps just to make sure everything stayed perfectly sturdy. And bonus. I got a bunch of perfectly dry steril paper towels out of it as well.

I removed the containers from the PC about an hour after it finished and depressurized. Everything was still really hot. Place them in my sab and left them too cool slowly. I think the thick plastic container helps with that as well which helps with the condensation. Also the room my Sab is in has the AC off so the ambient temperature in there is about a steady 80°.  That helped as well.

As soon as everything was cool and solidified I removed all the plates stacked  them upside down and left them overnight. When I came back all my condensation was pretty much gone. Very happy with the results. 

Pic tax.




Ps. Don't mind the useless cheap ass sab you see in the picture. I got suckered into that thing when I first started out. I don't do any work in it. I'm just using it to store my plates for long-term.

Centerfinger said:

I used that sab once and remembered I really dislike sab's. I built a hepa hood and it has worked fantastically.

I found several new thick hepa filters at goodwill for $5 so the bulk of the cost was just the sterilite and the inline fan.

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Centerfinger said:

I used that sab once and remembered I really dislike sab's. I built a hepa hood and it has worked fantastically.

I found several new thick hepa filters at goodwill for $5 so the bulk of the cost was just the sterilite and the inline fan.

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If it works and suits your needs, then...

KlarnEvil9 said:

Soft SABs are the work of the devil. Ditch that vendor made nonsense, I couldn't believe how much contam I was getting from mine.

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LotKid said:

SirPsycho said:

ReverendMyc said:

To be fair, I am team beaker now thanks to you, I believe.



handles save delicate fingers.


...............................
Lol this quote post comment got all messed up.  Anyways. 

I've. Been using these.. they amazing.

Although these specific ones aren't autoclavable. Im sure they have them tho. So I've been transferring my media into them when I'm ready to pour.


One is called a fluted pitcher. It's really good because the pouring nozzle is super long and skinny.






The second one is regular measuring pitcher. But the cool thing about it is the nozzle for pouring goes all the way down into the very bottom of the pitcher so you barely have to tilt it to pour the media out.  and you never have to worry about it coming out of the top of the pitcher if you tilt it too much.




Both have handles both make pouring media extremely easy.

ogelite said:

tryptkaloids said:

ogelite said:

DERRAYLD said:

Odd that nothing happened, not even a bit of biofilm?

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I am not sure for the agar also because it came from a vendor and correct , nothing happened.
ill try this time another vendor and lets see what happens.

Kloakk said:

I love my #7 handle, but I could use a higher quality one but uh, isn't anyone(who's not me) gonna have the "how to wrap with parafilm" talk with ogelite

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Ouchh Kloakk,
Kick in the nuts.

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I believe it was a lighthearted jab. I cut the thick strips in half so i dont have excess on the top of the plate.

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Thanks for advice , ill try it asap.

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anders said:

Question about 'water agar'.  I gather that plates with as low nutrients as you can manage are best?

I ran tests with MEA at 0.5%, 1%, and 1.5%.  0.5% was so jelly-like it would be unusable for transfers. 1% is marginal.

So I made up a batch of plates with 1% and did transfers to them on 7 Aug, myc side down.  The myc has attached.  Maybe I am impatient or frightened of losing my cultures but they seem to be taking a long time.

Am I Doing It Wrong®?

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DV8DUG said:

Look at these plates... Machine Elf Pheno Hunt.

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DV8DUG said:

Look at these plates... Machine Elf Pheno Hunt.

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DV8DUG said:

Look at these plates... Machine Elf Pheno Hunt.

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Will quote again.  Look more.

misterswisher said:

Water agar is usually referring to agar with no added nutrition. Mycelium will travel out in search for the nutrients. It’s how you’re supposed to ship genetics from the MP.

And great for getting the mycelium away from contamination.

Low nutrient agar can be used for the same affect, the mycelium should run away from the bacteria faster(should) but there’s better ways to de contaminate than just using low nutrient agar.

With added nutrients it’s definitely growing you may just not be able to see it with the naked eye. You’d be surprised how far past the “halo” you can find strands of mycelium.  3 days is barely time to let the culture establish after being cut, let alone to let it venture out. Give it a week.

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