PuffM4gicDr4gon said:

These are my current pan projects after tossing all my cultures

TTBVI T3




It's still a bit bumpy, and I don't like the odd growth at 2:30. I think I'm going to use it anyways, but practice transferring aerial mycelium before I put it to grain. Maybe the T4 will be nicer.

Komodo x TTBVI



I'll transfer the whispiest parts into a CS.

I have some other plates that are in a cabin right now, and I'll transfer those to their own plates to check for growth.

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I'm really proud of how this plate turned out

Komodo x TTBVI



This is from my attempt to pluck aerial mycelium from that TTBVI T3 plate. The schmutz is just some glue on the lid.



This is how my jars look so far from the TTBVI T3 plate



Hopefully I'll be pasteurizing some sub this weekend and then I can finally try out my new FC.

fahtster said:

I use a 12.5% castings mix.. the rest is the jacked up cv (Cv+)

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PuffM4gicDr4gon said:

This is how my jars look so far from the TTBVI T3 plate



Hopefully I'll be pasteurizing some sub this weekend and then I can finally try out my new FC.

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Azule said:

My first pan pins

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Azule said:

My first pan pins

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Baba Yaga said:

fahtster said:

I use a 12.5% castings mix.. the rest is the jacked up cv (Cv+)

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Is this by volume or weight and if the latter hydrated or dry weight?

Looking so good those trays.

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Generic said:

I've actually been very interested in spawning to outdoors, thinking that pasteurized substrate would be helpful to give it when spawning, but maybe that's too high of a risk.  last year i spawned grain to 100% sterilized hemp hurd in bags, buried it in rows outside with a little covering of soil, and it worked amazingly.  no manure involved, so easy... maybe i should try that again next spring when it gets warm again. 

(last year's outdoor hemp hurd grow with bisporus...





ok they didn't do THAT amazing, but they got scorched by the cold frame glass being closed and I wasn't there at all to water them, or open the cold frame at the right time...  a little negligence but i'm grateful for them telling me that it could work well.  some of them turned out great but it should have been a much shadier environment, they were clinging to the wooden walls for shelter from the sun)


)

...and I wonder how 100% hemp hurd inoculated with a qt of grain spawn in a bag would do if simply spawned to a tray in a martha, and cased...

I know that's a lot, but any opinions?

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I got a greenhouse that would be perfect for this, especially after I finish the drip irrigation system... Might do one bed with pans for the Summer, and do a couple beds of different woodlovers for late Fall.

fahtster said:

Not kloakk but this is probably the cleanest pan culture I’ve produced… at least the only one I’ve been completely sure about and thought, “that’s gonna do really well.”



Went on to produce this tray


I’ve had plenty that I was unsure about do well tho.  You want fast, even, wispy growth that looks unencumbered.  Watch out for myc that doesn’t grow aerial above the plate surface and lays down.  Too thick myc that’s slow usually means there’s a biofilm under it ime

I also don’t think it’s a stretch to think that some ride along bacteria can be in a symbiotic relationship with mycelium.  These organisms aren’t in anywhere close to sterile conditions out in the wild so maybe some bacteria are welcomed by the myc to help break food down (nichrome has said as much as a possibility). 

Could be that the bacteria hitches a ride helping them spread.  Could also be a way for the mycelium to keep their lineage in check… millions of spores are released and the weaker ones lose the battle of symbiotic balance being taken over by the bacteria whereas, the strong, fast and aggressive offspring stay in balance with the relationship and live long enough to spore.

Just spitballing but with that being said, if you’ve done everything you can to get a culture clean and it still seems slightly dirty but aggressive, maybe you just need to send it and see how it goes.  I have a lot of borderline cultures where Ive done that and they turn out well.  Maybe the first flush is a bit rough but get better in the conservative flushes.

When I do send cultures to grain that I’m not sure of, I’ll pay close attention to what the jar looks like fully colonized.  I let my jar go for 2-3 days after colonization to see how they act.  You really can’t tell much from a colonizing jar.  They can be very deceiving.  The growth in that 2-3 days after 100% tells me if I should even send the jar to bulk. 

This is what I look for in those jars.. again, even growth without signs of stress


That myc growing up the jar says a lot.  The myc in the grains is also even.  There’s no thick matted clumps or bruising or yellowing/gray colors.

This jar has all the things I don’t want to see.  Along with, metabolites


I won’t even waste the materials to send that because 9 out of 10 times, it won’t even make it past colonizing and if it does, it probably won’t flush out.  Metabolites and heavy bruising are the big ones for me.  I see those and it’s a definite no send. 

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Alright Professor Faht (Baba, Kloakk, and Puff. Feel free to chime in here)

This is a clone I took of the bacterial tub that stuck I out long enough to give me fruits.

Faht, you stated "Watch out for myc that doesn’t grow aerial above the plate surface and lays down"

So with the way this Myc is starting, I should take this as a good sign yeah?  This is on water agar. about 2 days old so growth is going fairly fast (relative to the original plate/ culture it came from) Light, wispy, fast, and aerial.

Baba Yaga said:

Looks like a good start to new beginnings.

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