MushLuvR77 said:

You need to mist (from high above and let it drift to the surface, no close blasts of water) that surface and catch it right away, you are still ok but get beads back on that surface and ease up on air for cubes for pinning, I couldn't tell you how many pictures I've seen over the years where the surface is a dessert (almost) too early in the cycle.  The problem is people here the term FAE and start it WAY too early, surface dries, no pins or sparse fruits, and it's all because of not leaving it alone (guilty too when I first started out) for pinning.  Cubes can handle 100% humidity or near for pins, check out these 2nd flush fruits (below), notice how dry the surface and sub is this late in the game, all good, fruits are well developed, rehydrate and pins in a day or two.  It's a timing thing, more humidity for pins setting, and then slowly adding air to the finish, it sounds complex, but once you get a few runs under your belt, it becomes second nature. 

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UPDATE: So I did have plenty of microdroplets on my pic, but to be sure, I attached a humidifier/mister and a hydrometer (my tub was at 60% humidity, popped it up to 95-96%) and they're pinning today.

I think what I described as "they looked like they were suffocating" was hyphae suffering from too little humidity. IDK, I'm new to this.



I'm pretty sure I spent a good amount of my Sunday just looking at them--these pins literally popped out of nowhere, I had photos of the tub when I woke up in the morning and passed by around noon and noticed there were suddenly pins everywhere!

Mortifiied said:

I would take the tape off, looks like alot of condensation, but I am also a noob. Also uncover it and take a better picture.

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Just opened it and its super dry was going to drench it and re apply the wrap and open like 4-5 of those holes that are covered with micropore

colderthanautumn said:

MushLuvR77 said:

You need to mist (from high above and let it drift to the surface, no close blasts of water) that surface and catch it right away, you are still ok but get beads back on that surface and ease up on air for cubes for pinning, I couldn't tell you how many pictures I've seen over the years where the surface is a dessert (almost) too early in the cycle.  The problem is people here the term FAE and start it WAY too early, surface dries, no pins or sparse fruits, and it's all because of not leaving it alone (guilty too when I first started out) for pinning.  Cubes can handle 100% humidity or near for pins, check out these 2nd flush fruits (below), notice how dry the surface and sub is this late in the game, all good, fruits are well developed, rehydrate and pins in a day or two.  It's a timing thing, more humidity for pins setting, and then slowly adding air to the finish, it sounds complex, but once you get a few runs under your belt, it becomes second nature. 

---

UPDATE: So I did have plenty of microdroplets on my pic, but to be sure, I attached a humidifier/mister and a hydrometer (my tub was at 60% humidity, popped it up to 95-96%) and they're pinning today.

I think what I described as "they looked like they were suffocating" was hyphae suffering from too little humidity. IDK, I'm new to this.



I'm pretty sure I spent a good amount of my Sunday just looking at them--these pins literally popped out of nowhere, I had photos of the tub when I woke up in the morning and passed by around noon and noticed there were suddenly pins everywhere!

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colderthanautumn said:

MushLuvR77 said:

You need to mist (from high above and let it drift to the surface, no close blasts of water) that surface and catch it right away, you are still ok but get beads back on that surface and ease up on air for cubes for pinning, I couldn't tell you how many pictures I've seen over the years where the surface is a dessert (almost) too early in the cycle.  The problem is people here the term FAE and start it WAY too early, surface dries, no pins or sparse fruits, and it's all because of not leaving it alone (guilty too when I first started out) for pinning.  Cubes can handle 100% humidity or near for pins, check out these 2nd flush fruits (below), notice how dry the surface and sub is this late in the game, all good, fruits are well developed, rehydrate and pins in a day or two.  It's a timing thing, more humidity for pins setting, and then slowly adding air to the finish, it sounds complex, but once you get a few runs under your belt, it becomes second nature. 

---

UPDATE: So I did have plenty of microdroplets on my pic, but to be sure, I attached a humidifier/mister and a hydrometer (my tub was at 60% humidity, popped it up to 95-96%) and they're pinning today.

I think what I described as "they looked like they were suffocating" was hyphae suffering from too little humidity. IDK, I'm new to this.



I'm pretty sure I spent a good amount of my Sunday just looking at them--these pins literally popped out of nowhere, I had photos of the tub when I woke up in the morning and passed by around noon and noticed there were suddenly pins everywhere!

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Mortifiied said:

You could glue a layer of those green rectangle Brillo pads to the bottom maybe.

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1oz0fTheory said:

1 quart spawn 3 quart sub , yes its micropore and it was done on 7-31-26..., it definitely is thin.

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1:3 ratio is fine although I prefer 1:4. Doing 1 jar to 1 tub is the way to go(in my opinion) until your have more fruits then you'll ever need(which you will) because then it doesn't matter if it fails, well it matters but not soul crushing matters

What size tub are you running? Using a smaller tub to get a deeper substrate might be an option.

1oz0fTheory said:

Just opened it and its super dry was going to drench it and re apply the wrap and open like 4-5 of those holes that are covered with micropore

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Hmm, so the surface was dry even though you have mp tape on all holes and the lid closed, is that the case?

It seems you didn't use a top layer, like 2cm(compressed) of coir(with or without verm) on top after mixing the grain spawn with the substrate? I really like using a top layer for cubes, ochras and subtrops. The biggest benefit of a top layer in my opinion is that after you're done with spawning you can mist the top layer to be a little over field capacity while the grains still sit in the field capacity substrate.

That way things shouldn't dry out as fast. It also means that if the surface does dry out during colonization, you can keep misting it until you see mycelium poking through it

Here you can see the top layer by just looking at the mycelium growth pattern.


I suck at quick answers

BeefExtreme said:

Im not sure i beleive in qa's...

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I just want everyone to get the results they want, but I am known for over explaining shit that doesn't need to be over explained