jumbodit said:

I have a 40q plastic tub. Should I use it as a monotub for fruiting or a SAB? How big does a monotub for fruiting need to be? I am a noob.

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Monotub, 40 is tiny for a SAB.

This one is somewhere in the neighborhood of 80q.  I’ve used it so much the numbers are rubbed off the bottom

flapping_bird said:

AntaresWeevil said:

What are the different purposes for using high nutrient vs low nutrient agar? Does mycelium jump from agar to grain quicker with either one of those?

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the nutrient density affects how the colony behaves on agar … if it is a bit lower than it prefers, it will spread out quickly in search of nutrients. High nutrient density can cause it to just stick in one spot and pig out without moving much.

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Mr Piggy said:

That is absolutely not what happened with your jars.  They were made improperly in the first place and dealing with contamination.

Did you know if you had followed cron’s advice you would be harvesting cincs right now?

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cronicr said:

Mr Piggy said:

That is absolutely not what happened with your jars.  They were made improperly in the first place and dealing with contamination.

Did you know if you had followed cron’s advice you would be harvesting cincs right now?

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Even if he was successful on a box of cakes he'd be lucky to pull enough for a trip , even cubes average about 3.5 grams per cake , probably half a gram if your lucky per cake for cincs I really don't see any upside here

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tultedspoon said:

cronicr said:

Mr Piggy said:

That is absolutely not what happened with your jars.  They were made improperly in the first place and dealing with contamination.

Did you know if you had followed cron’s advice you would be harvesting cincs right now?

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Even if he was successful on a box of cakes he'd be lucky to pull enough for a trip , even cubes average about 3.5 grams per cake , probably half a gram if your lucky per cake for cincs I really don't see any upside here

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Is that just because cincts don't put out a lot? I know these are definitely not cinctulus, they are more along the lines of a olivaceus if that makes a difference in growing quantity. But I'm not 100% that it's olivaceus either, and it could be Panaeolus subfirmus, maybe even Panaeolus sphinctrinus. But it's hard to find as detailed information on these species but are still very much psychoactive.

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cybork said:

Hi,

I just opened a year old vaccuum sealed bag with dried cubes. A bag of 30grams. When they were sealed a year ago, they were crisp dry. But now they are a bit soft, though some larger parts still crack. So I conclude they were not 100% dried. No holes in the plastic by the way. As I want to give them away for microdosing, I'd like to know whether it's safe and viable (like: still active).

So 3 questions:
1: are they safe to consume?
2: are they still active?
3: is it normal a year old vaccuum sealed bag content gets soft?

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Wedgie said:

Okay I think I am sort of an advanced grower, maybe

But...
What's the deal with subtropicalis/semperviva?
Why do some people say they have 3 month old spawn still viable?
Why do others say spawn to manure substrate and case for fruits in just weeks instead??
What's the thing with them also, they contaminate easily? Adding to the difficulty?

I've seen a few write ups/growlogs but none mention keeping old spawn.

Figuring out a lot of stuff "on my own" was fun with Tampanensis, but
Subtropis seem more confusing.

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I left mine in my jars too long and they started looking funky, so I top fruited them with coir.  Turns out splotchy old jars are okay?  I got a couple good flushes before trich got em.

Wedgie said:

Okay I think I am sort of an advanced grower, maybe

But...
What's the deal with subtropicalis/semperviva?
Why do some people say they have 3 month old spawn still viable?
Why do others say spawn to manure substrate and case for fruits in just weeks instead??
What's the thing with them also, they contaminate easily? Adding to the difficulty?

I've seen a few write ups/growlogs but none mention keeping old spawn.

Figuring out a lot of stuff "on my own" was fun with Tampanensis, but
Subtropis seem more confusing.

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Old spawn is not a problem with semperviva, but it’s not necessary. The mycelium is also active, and the longer the spawn jars age the more potent the mycelium, so some allow their grain jars to sit for many months to harvest the grain to consume.

It has not been my experience that they contaminate any easier than other species.

Semps fruit just fine from coir only substrates. I’ve also grown them on manure/straw with good results. No noticeable difference in time table for either one. Conditions seem to determine time to fruit more than anything else IME.

They do like a casing after the sub is fully colonized, but will fruit without one. My yields have been better with a casing.

Check out Melgo’s great write up on semps, Here.

Here are some jars I inoculated in May. These photos were taken at the end of September just before I sent them to coir only substrates in a mono. They fruited just fine at the end of November.

tryptkaloids said:

I find old clean semp jars to be difficult to distinguish from something id never eat.

I guess I need more experience with the species

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Huskies said:

What would make a presto 23qt cap out at 12.5 psi?

Only thing I can see is maybe the weight could be tightened up, I can see some gaps.

Still, super weird. I'll run it for 2:30 to 3 hours instead and hopefully that'll be fine

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