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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: Amanita virosa]
    #17514382 -

Amanita virosa said:
Verm is made from mica by superheating under pressure. It is inert, neutral in ph and has no nutritive value.



RogerRabbit said:
Mycelium will consume and digest verm, and even plants use vermiculite as 'fertilizer'.  Verm is definitely not inert and is suitable for much more than holding water.
RR



:shrug:

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: PussyFart]
    #17514392 -

There he is.

:pedrophile:


--------------------
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: PussyFart] * 1
    #17514577 -

Notahacker420 said:
Amanita virosa said:
Verm is made from mica by superheating under pressure. It is inert, neutral in ph and has no nutritive value.



RogerRabbit said:
Mycelium will consume and digest verm, and even plants use vermiculite as 'fertilizer'.  Verm is definitely not inert and is suitable for much more than holding water.
RR



:shrug:



There may be  just a few things that I know more about than RR and plant physiology is one of them. Its how i
Make my living for the last 25 years  I can assure you that verm has no nutrient value to plants. Although it does contain iron, magnesium and phosphorus, they are bound together in a way that makes them unavailable to plants. Kind of like how plants are unable to use nitrogen gas as a a source of nitrogen, Even though they are surrounded by it. They don't consume it. Don't believe me. Try growing plants in pure verm and see how far ya get.  Rather than taking to word of one man as gospel on every topic maybe it's time to broaden your horizons just a bit.  The reason we add verm to potting soil has little to do with water retention btw and more to do with the fact that it greatly increases cation exchange capacity of the mix. Look it up

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: Amanita virosa]
    #17514634 -

Amanita virosa said:
Rather than taking to word of one man as gospel on every topic maybe it's time to broaden your horizons just a bit. 



It's not just one man....there are other TCs who think verm has nutrients.

Like TL, who claims that verm has trace minerals....

And also RR who will ask you "If verm has no nutrients, why are BRF cakes 2/3 verm, and considered borderline too nutritious?"

And there are other people who are way more knowledgeable than me when it comes to that stuff that think so as well.

I was not trying to start anything, and by no means meant anything by it.

But I just hate when people whos opinion's we are supposed to trust have 2 completely different sides to something.

It's hard to know who or what is right, because from what I am seeing with mushroom cultivation personally is that verm has nutrients, so like I said.... :shrug:

Edited by PussyFart (01/07/13 10:10 PM)

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: PussyFart]
    #17514652 -

Deleted....Fuck it....

Edited by PussyFart (01/07/13 10:15 PM)

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: Amanita virosa]
    #17514745 -

Amanita virosa said:
Notahacker420 said:
Amanita virosa said:
Verm is made from mica by superheating under pressure. It is inert, neutral in ph and has no nutritive value.



RogerRabbit said:
Mycelium will consume and digest verm, and even plants use vermiculite as 'fertilizer'.  Verm is definitely not inert and is suitable for much more than holding water.
RR



:shrug:



There may be  just a few things that I know more about than RR and plant physiology is one of them. Its how i
Make my living for the last 25 years  I can assure you that verm has no nutrient value to plants. Although it does contain iron, magnesium and phosphorus, they are bound together in a way that makes them unavailable to plants. Kind of like how plants are unable to use nitrogen gas as a a source of nitrogen, Even though they are surrounded by it. They don't consume it. Don't believe me. Try growing plants in pure verm and see how far ya get.  Rather than taking to word of one man as gospel on every topic maybe it's time to broaden your horizons just a bit.  The reason we add verm to potting soil has little to do with water retention btw and more to do with the fact that it greatly increases cation exchange capacity of the mix. Look it up



If verm was a nutrient it would not work as a filter. End of story. The only nutrients it could possibly contain would exist as impurities. PURE verm is non nutritive. I challenge anyone to show me peer reviewed scientific evidence stating otherwise. Or grow me some genuine mycelium in it. That said, I am a plant guy and I can say unequivocally that plants cannot break it down and consume it as RR states in his quote. I do not understand fungi well enough to say the same about them. Again show me real evidence. Not random anticdotal quotes...

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: Amanita virosa]
    #17514790 -

Amanita virosa said:
If verm was a nutrient it would not work as a filter. End of story.



Then why do we have to keep the dry verm layer dry?

Why not keep the foil on the jars and let the verm layer get wet? If it is in fact inert, it getting wet on a colonizing cake should not matter.

Because from my understanding is that that is gonna let contams colonize right thru it if it gets wet.

So is my logic here flawed? Or do these nutrients that contams love magically appear with moisture?

Again, not trying to argue, just trying to put this to bed....

It either is nutritiously beneficial to mushroom mycellium or it's not, there is no middle ground here. Added moisture should not change this.

If I am wrong please come back...don't leave me hangin....

Edited by PussyFart (01/07/13 10:47 PM)

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: Tmethyl]
    #17515097 -

Tmethyl said:
Well done everyone, there is some valuable information gathering in here.

Some optional tips:
If you're growing Cubensis or other 'active' species, do not tell anyone about your grow. When I say 'anyone' I mean not even your best friend, not your mother or any other family member, nobody needs to know. Don't even tell them you have some Cubensis. Tell them "I know a guy who has some".

Do not label your jars, syringes or any other items with the actual species of mushroom you're growing (If you're growing a psychoactive species)
Label the jars as "Agaricus" or "Ganoderma" or "Shitake". If you've received a pre-labled syringe from a vendor, remove the label, write on your own with a permanent marker.

-----------

I highly recommend using natural light for every grow, I understand this is not a possibility for everyone and florescent/LED must be used.
But if it's in any way possible, place them next to a bright window, the results of the caps size, and overall health of the mushroom is noticeable. Try to avoid direct sunlight though, a North or South facing window is optimal, there will be direct sunlight for a few hours a day on East and West facing windows.



i second that... this could possibly be the best tip:thumbup:


--------------------
Nicolynn

:grin:

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: PussyFart]
    #17515173 -

There seems to be agreement that other filters don't work well when wet, that it makes it easier for contaminants to wick through. This doesn't mean tyvek or polyfill is nutritious. And neither is vermiculite.

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: thiotimoline]
    #17515221 -

thiotimoline said:
This doesn't mean tyvek or polyfill is nutritious. And neither is vermiculite.



:facepalm:  Tyvek and polyfill are both synthetic.

Edited by PussyFart (01/08/13 12:36 AM)

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: PussyFart]
    #17515259 -

Alright kids...back to the tips!

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: Oeric McKenna]
    #17515284 -

Oeric McKenna said:
Alright kids...back to the tips!



:solidnod:


--------------------
Nicolynn

:grin:

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: Tmethyl]
    #17515301 -

Tmethyl said:
This thread is to be devoted to fungi cultivation related tips, tricks, and advice.
It was created to fill the new section of the community powered guide, the new section is HERE.

I have already sent a message to all Trusted Cultivators, requesting tips.

Now I come to everyone else, what we are looking for 1 - 3 (per person) tips, tricks or advice that you think may help a new cultivator, or cultivators in general.
Maybe it was something you found that helped you out a lot. Your tips/tricks can be directly related to techniques, teks, materials, fruiting chambers.
They can be mental tips, or tips on good ways to avoid law enforcement. Tips on locations to collect grow materials. Site/sponsor recommendations.
Tricks that you found handy, maybe tricks for your sterilization technique, or agar work, whatever you can think of.
Maybe you can think of something you would have done different if you were to start over?

Thank you all in advance, most of the tips will be added as they are collected, with credits clearly attached.



thank you for this post Tmethy. :thumbup:l


--------------------
FrostE

:eyeball::heartpump::mushroom2::sporedrop::mushdance::fearandloathing:

The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: PussyFart]
    #17515556 -

Notahacker420 said:
Amanita virosa said:
If verm was a nutrient it would not work as a filter. End of story.



Then why do we have to keep the dry verm layer dry?

Why not keep the foil on the jars and let the verm layer get wet? If it is in fact inert, it getting wet on a colonizing cake should not matter.

Because from my understanding is that that is gonna let contams colonize right thru it if it gets wet.

So is my logic here flawed? Or do these nutrients that contams love magically appear with moisture?

Again, not trying to argue, just trying to put this to bed....

It either is nutritiously beneficial to mushroom mycellium or it's not, there is no middle ground here. Added moisture should not change this.

If I am wrong please come back...don't leave me hangin....



Contrary to popular belief, OMCs are not the best place to learn about the "whys" of fungi, only the "hows." We only actually have a handful of trained mycologists around. Everybody else is the equivilant of some guy who's cooking meth in his kitchen, even if some of us are good at it.

Scholar.google.com will help you from this point. Search anything you can think of about microbiology. That'll usually pull up an abstract. You'll have to search around (and sometimes pay for) the entire writeup.

You seem like you've gotten all you can from BBS's. Time to grow up.


--------------------
Pat The Bunny said:
A punk rock song won't ever change the world, but I can tell you about a couple that changed me.

bodhisatta said:
i recommend common sense and figuring it out.

These are the TEKs I use. They're all as cheap and easy as possible, just like your mom.

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: 36fuckin5]
    #17515574 -

OMCs?

BBS's?

What?

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: PussyFart]
    #17515581 -

Notahacker420 said:
OMCs?

BBS's?

What?



BBS = Bulitin Board System ...
OMC = ??


--------------------
Trades
Current Contest!
My current mono (pics)
Ghetto Bulk Dehydrator Tek
How I Made My Alcohol Lamp

Oeric McKenna said:
"My innoculant is heavily contaminated with mushroom mycelium"


Edited by MoGrow (01/08/13 02:55 AM)

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: 36fuckin5]
    #17515655 -

Notahacker420 said:
Amanita virosa said:
If verm was a nutrient it would not work as a filter. End of story.



Then why do we have to keep the dry verm layer dry?

Why not keep the foil on the jars and let the verm layer get wet? If it is in fact inert, it getting wet on a colonizing cake should not matter.

Because from my understanding is that that is gonna let contams colonize right thru it if it gets wet.

So is my logic here flawed? Or do these nutrients that contams love magically appear with moisture?

Again, not trying to argue, just trying to put this to bed....

It either is nutritiously beneficial to mushroom mycellium or it's not, there is no middle ground here. Added moisture should not change this.

If I am wrong please come back...don't leave me hangin....



could it be to protect the BRF from contams? because if the verm is wet wouldnt contams be able to get to the BRF?
Just asking???


--------------------
FrostE

:eyeball::heartpump::mushroom2::sporedrop::mushdance::fearandloathing:

The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: froste]
    #17515669 -

froste said:
could it be to protect the BRF from contams? because if the verm is wet wouldnt contams be able to get to the BRF?
Just asking???



RogerRabbit said:
The foil should be removed as soon as jars come out of the sterilizer.  This is to prevent the dry verm filter from becoming damp, which will allow contaminants to colonize through it to reach the rice flour supplemented verm below.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/16434915#16434915

RogerRabbit said:
I've personally posted at least a thousand times to remove the foil as soon as you remove the jars from the sterilizer.  Your problem isn't CO2, but probably bacteria contamination from leaving the foil on, which keeps your 'dry' verm filter damp.  This allows bacteria in the air to colonize right through the verm to the brf below.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/14678958#14678958



How would this be possible if verm was inert?

Edited by PussyFart (01/08/13 03:50 AM)

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: froste]
    #17515670 -

I just found this:

Perlite vs. VermiculiteBy Jim Fry

I’ve often wondered what the difference between Perlite and Vermiculite was and was even told by someone in a local nursery that they were interchangeable. Recently I came across a description in Horticulture Magazine. Vermiculite is a alumino-silicate clay mineral that is mined and heated to expand the particles. It’s sterile, soaks up 3-4 times its volume in water, and attracts nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, potassium, and phosphorous.

Perlite, on the other hand, is a silicon-rich volcanic rock. It’s also mined and heated to expand the particles. It will soak up some water but is mainly used to aerate and improve drainage in potting mixes.

I asked our local plant meister, Werner, why I couldn’t use vermiculite instead of perlite for my potted rhodies. After all, those nutrients that are attracted by the vermiculite are good for rhodies, aren’t they?

He explained that the vermiculite attracts nutrients by remaining wet. For other plants that might be okay but for rhodies it’s a death sentence.

and this here:

What is Vermiculite?

Vermiculite is a mineral that has expanded into lightweight pebbles due to superheating. It is golden in color and resembles mica. Vermiculite can soak up over three times its volume in water. Vermiculite is naturally a 'wicking' mineral. This means that it acts as a magnet for nutrients like potassium, calcium and magnesium. Because of this, it can be very useful in a passive hydroponics system that does not utilize pumps or other devices to force the nutrient solution to flow.

Then theres this here:

What Is the Difference Between Vermiculite and Perlite?
Vermiculite and perlite are inorganic, mineral-based materials used in horticulture. Vermiculite is comprised of naturally occurring minerals. Perlite is siliceous rock, a naturally occurring type of volcanic glass. Added to soil and soil mixes, vermiculite and perlite provide structure and improved drainage.

Vermiculite is a naturally occurring group of hydrated laminar minerals, called hydrated magnesium aluminum silicates. The minerals are heated at high temperatures during processing, causing them to expand. Vermiculite has a neutral pH of 7.0. The light-weight material holds nutrients, air and moisture while providing good drainage.

Perlite, on the other hand, is siliceous volcanic glass. The volcanic glass is created when magma cools quickly. When the perlite is heated at high temperatures during processing, the material expands from four to 20 times its volume. The expanded, crushed rock material is commonly used in potting mixes and soils, provides good aeration around plant roots, holds nutrients and moisture, and drains well. Perlite, like vermiculite, has a neutral pH.

Vermiculite and perlite serve similar functions in horticultural applications. Soil, compost, and other organic potting materials break down over time, releasing important nutrients. Vermiculite and perlite do not break down, however. Using one of these materials in combination with organic potting mixes creates space between the soil particles. The plants, then, get the nutrients they need from the organic material and good drainage and air circulation from the inorganic material.

Most garden soil is not well suited for growing plants in containers, as it generally is too heavy for container growing. As it compacts, the plant roots are starved of oxygen, moisture and nutrients. A good, light-weight potting soil can be created by combining loamy garden soil, vermiculite or perlite, compost and peat moss in equal parts.

When starting seeds indoors, or rooting cuttings, a sterile environment is important. Microbes in organic materials, such as potting soil, compost or garden soil, can cause seeds and cuttings to rot before they germinate or form roots. A soilless mix can be made by combining equal parts vermiculite or perlite with coarse sand and peat moss.

Unlike organic materials, vermiculite and perlite do not contain nutrients. When starting seeds in one of these inorganic materials, fertilizers should be applied soon after the seedlings emerge. The seeds provide nutrients for for the first stages of growth, but the developing plants need additional nutrients as the nutrients in the seed are exhausted.

Vermiculite and perlite can be used to improve garden soil. Many plants do not grow well in heavy, wet clay-like soil. Mixing the soil with one of these porous rock materials helps improve the soil structure.

*** notice the line that says : "Unlike organic materials, vermiculite and perlite do not contain nutrients."


--------------------
FrostE

:eyeball::heartpump::mushroom2::sporedrop::mushdance::fearandloathing:

The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson

Edited by froste (01/08/13 03:57 AM)

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Re: Tips and Tricks - Contribution Thread [Re: froste]
    #17515693 -

Ok....

Properties of Vermiculite

Vermiculite is a mined mineral with certain properties that make it useful for gardeners. The mineral, after being treated, is often added to potting soil, though the process that transforms it into a useful soil additive also makes vermiculite expensive. Another potential downside is that the vermiculite could be mined from a place containing asbestos. Thus, make sure to use a mask when handling vermiculite. Also look for packaging stating the vermiculite contains no asbestos and no products taken from mines containing asbestos.

Nutrients
The inherent nutritional properties of vermiculite are somewhat mild. The vermiculite might provide some potassium (K), magnesium (Mg) and trace minerals. However, the moisture-retaining qualities of vermiculite mean that nutrients dissolved in the water are also retained by vermiculite instead of draining away.

http://www.gardenguides.com/101377-properties-vermiculite.html

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