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OfflineTmethylM
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How it should & shouldn't look - NEW CULTIVATORS GUIDE * 135
    #17231150 - 11/16/12 06:24 PM (12 years, 21 days ago)

:growshrooms:

The below visual guide is designed for novice and inexperienced mushroom cultivators. For some, it's easier and more comforting to know they are(or aren't) on the right path by visually making a comparison with an experienced growers cultures. That's what this guide is for, visual comparison. Please feel free to thank and rate any of the contributors.


What It Shouldn't Look Like <-Click
Genetic Mutations Section <-Click
General Cultivation Information & FAQ <-Click
Edible, Medicinal, and Novelty Fungi <-Click
Supplies and Materials <-Click
Tips and Tricks <-Click



1) Mycelium
2) Hyphal Knots & Primordia
3) Pins
4) When to Harvest
5) Mature Mushrooms
6) Spore Prints
7) Mycelium on Agar
8) Panaeolus cyanescens Section
9) How it Shouldn't Look
10) Poor Fruiting Conditions


Cubensis mycelium just starting to colonize grain spawn jars - Tmethyl

Typical colonization patterns of a multispore inoculation in a BRF mixture - Tmethyl

Cubensis mycelium, the definition of rhizomorphic colonization, 1/2 pint BRF cake (Brown Rice Flower) - Revolutionctm

Cubensis mycelium CLOSE-UP (macro), colonizing multiple substrates - Tmethyl

Mycelium breaking the surface of the substrate, in a monotub - Tmethyl

Super macro shots of Mycelium on grain spawn - Timehole

Newly germinated mycelium on a BRF(PF tek) jar, and newly germinated mycelium on rye spawn jar (This is what it should look like 5-10 days after spore inoculation, but in rare cases can take up to 2-3 weeks to see growth) - Rohr

Rhizomorphic growth on WBS (Wild Bird Seed) - FrankHorrigan

Two jars on the left were at 30% colonization when the three jars on the right are at 70%. Matching growth by shaking the two and leaving the others to finish. You don't want to wait more than 2 days to use a fully colonized rye jar - Exiledmonkies

Cubensis mycelium in WBS/rye quarts, this is when I like to shake my jars and distribute the mycelium - Tmethyl

Penis Envy strain monoculture in WBS(Wild Bird seed) - FrankHorrigan

MS(multispore) inoculation, mycelium germinating at inoculation points. Do not shake grain jars if you inoculated with MS, only shake once they reach 30% colonization, then allow the finish - Tmethyl

Corn starch liquid culture syringe - Exiledmonkies

Multiple liquid cultures of Cubensis mycelium - Hoobatech

Cubensis liquid culture - Alembic






Knots, small pins - Bodhisatta

Knots, primordia, small pins - Tmethyl

Primordia and knots - Tmethyl

Primordia/knots - NatureBoy

Primordia and knots - Creekfreek

Hyphal knots, macro close-up - Tmethyl

Primordia and knots - Dodgem

Cubensis hyphal knots on rhizomorphic mycelium - Tmethyl

Cubensis "roping" mycelium, also primordia and knots on right side, 1pint BRF(Brown Rice Flour) jar - Tmethyl

Pins, Primorida, and Hyphal knots in monotub - Elkart

Primordia growing on a pin, and various hyphal knots - Tmethyl

Cubensis hyphal knots, primordia, and pin, extreme close up! - Tmethyl

Hyphal knotting close-up, inside a monotub (one day before fruiting) - Tmethyl

Hyphal knots, primordia/pins - k00laid

An expensive shot of Hyphal knots and Primordia (and some pins) growing on a "cash casing" - RogerRabbit






Pins growing in a wine glass - Tmethtyl

A gorgeous set of pins - PrimalSoup

An interestingly shaped pin set - TranscendingLife

Some very clean pins - TheApprentice

Pins on BRF cakes - Tsmtbs07

The kangaroo approves of this monotub pin set - Tmethyl

Invitro pinning 1pint BRF(Brown Rice Flour) jars *Jar inverted for picture, do not invert your jars* - Tmethyl

Cubensis pinning on bulk cake - Tmethyl

Psilocybe Cubensis pin set in monotub - FrankHorrigan

Invitro pins, and impressive mycelial network on glass - Elkart

1 pint Brf/Rye hybrid cakes pinning in GH setup (Green house) - Tmethyl

Cubensis pins in monotub, all aiming towards light source (window) - Tmethyl

Cubensis pins growing from a 1" WBS (Wild Bird Seed) substrate - Citric

Pristine Penis Envy var. pins on a bulk cake - k00laid

A glorious shot of hundreds of invitro pins - RogerRabbit






Psilocybe Cubensis fruits, 1 day before harvest - Tmethyl

A good time to harvest (opinionated) - Tmethyl

No better time to harvest, than now - Applesmasher420

Harvest time - TheApprentice

An epic shot of a perfect time to harvest, admire these beauties for a moment! - PrimalSoup

Time to harvest these - Tmethyl

This is when to harvest! - Elkart

A great time to harvest - Tmethyl

A little late for some on the outer regions, but a great time to harvest this entire tub, especially the center - Citric

A beautifully timed harvest - Tmethyl

A perfect time to harvest this 110g mutant nicknamed "The Pumpkin" - Tmethyl

Good time to harvest these KSSS mushrooms, this particular strain tends to develop very short very wide fruits in the first flush - Beethoven

Cubensis roughly 1 day before a perfect harvest time - Amanita Virosa

Harvesting these now, is good for me - NatureBoy





Mature psilocybe Cubensis on BRF(Brown rice flour) cakes, from under - Tmethyl

Mature Psilocybe Cubensis through the peephole(Fresh air exchange hole in monotubs) - Tmethyl

Fully mature Psilocybe cubensis fruits - Applesmasher420

Mature Psilocybe Cubensis fruit - FrankHorrigan

Cubensis proper blue bruising, darkness/shade can vary - Tmethyl

Mature Cubensis, split from over-humidity - Tmethyl

Some cubensis fruits that were grown inside a cup - Citric

What happens when you allow your cubes to become too mature? Sporesplosion. These are going to taste like shit - Elkart

Mature Penis Envy strain Psilocybe Cubensis - RogerRabbit

Mature cubensis fruits, in a plastic tarp fruiting chamber set up. Growing on a straw log - RogerRabbit





Psilocybe cubensis print on foil - Applesmasher420

Cubensis prints on foil - RogerRabbit

Cubensis spore prints on foil - Tmethyl

A simple printing method which involves filling some small containers with a small amount sterile distilled water, then flipping the lids over and placing a mushroom cap on it to drop spores, then flip the lid back over onto the container and shake it. Instant dark spore solution with very little contamination possibility. Use about 1cc/ml or less per 10-12cc/ml syringe (1cc spore solution 9-11cc water) - Tmethyl



Healthy mycelium on agar Van Hatton

A pin cloned on agar - TrancendingLife

Cubensis mycelium on agar with a mysterious ring formation.. - Creekfreek

Heavily rhizomorphic mycelium on agar - FrankHorrigan

Rye agar, half pint "spacial" jars - Tmethyl

Cubensis mycelium on agar, random colonies - Exiledmonkies

Dikaryotic hyphae, with water droplets on them. These droplets were thought to be yeast contamination buds - Amanita Virosa

Clean cubensis mycelium on agar - Dmonkey1

Clean isolate(monoculture) - Bodhisatta

Clean mycelium transfers - Bodhisatta

Spore germination on agar, and Psilocybe cubensis spore micrograph - Bodhisatta





Paneaolus cyanescens partially and fully colonized 1quart rye apawns - Tmethyl

Panaeolus Cyanescens mycelium partially/fully colonizing a tray - Tmethyl

Paneaolus mycelium Mono cultures on agar - FrankHorrigan

Paneaolus Cyanescens monoculture in WBS(Wild Bird Seed) - FrankHorrigan

Paneaolus Cyanescens pins - Tmethyl

Mature and almost mature Pan Cyan(Paneaolus Cyanescens) fruits, gills, and random Pan Cyan photography - Tmethyl

Quote:

Blue Helix said:
One of the hardest things to make in pan cyans is the casing.  If you do not allow the substrate to colonize long enough, then the casing will be overtaken by overlay.  Overlay can partially or totally close the casing off to pin formation because pins only form at the interface between the casing and substrate.  An overlaid casing will yield at least 50% lower than a well-colonized one.  If it's heavily overlaid, you'll lose everything but a few tiny mushrooms.So what should you look for?

First an overlaid casing - note this is a result of not allowing the bags to colonize hard enough and/or not alowing the trays to sit long enough after they are laid before applying the casing:



Sometimes you'll get pins where the overlay isn't as bad, but you can forget a canopy of fruits for this pan cyans (cubes really don't care much) if you have overlay.  Let's look at some that have partial overlay with pins (failures):



A properly colonized bit of non-nutritive casing (if you put nutrients in it like coco coir forget it), looks like (and performs like) this:




So what's the difference?  There is a persistent myth this is purely a matter of genetics.  In my opinion and experience it's not just genetics, although they do, admittedly, cause a propensity to overlay.  In 2018 I proved to myself that even genes prone to overlay could produce high yields and dense pin sets if precautions were taken. 

So what what precautions?
  • If you colonize in a spawn bag, break up the substrate at 50% to 70%.  Allow the mycelium to well recolonize the bag.
  • If you colonize in a spawn bag, do not open it to lay the trays the day it appears fully colonized.  Give it between two and four more days. 
  • Once you lay the trays, put some toothpick-poked saran wrap over it an allow it to colonize at fruiting temperatures for 1 to 4 days.  You want it as colonized as it possibly can be without stalling it out.  During this phase, before you put the casing on, you want it to look like thick clouds of mycelium over the substrate.  The thicker the better.  Do NOT store the tray in low temperatures during this time.
  • After colonization, make sure you apply a non-nutritive casing.  Coco coir is NOT idea (a fact I proved in 2004 through a detailed side-by-side grow).  If you suspect something might have nutrients in it but can we rinsed out, rinse it out!
  • Provide an even casing (the more even the better; user a roller if you want) and allow it to colonize being very wet.  Keep it well hydrated.  Some folks even hand-mist it just up to the point little puddles form every day or other day.  I usually don't do this, but I do keep it very wet.
Just think of it this way: you are trying to get the mycelium to know it's finished with vegetative substrate growth by well colonizing the substrate.  That will trigger the casing colonization and pinning.
Hope this helps!!!





--------------------
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Edited by Tmethyl (07/12/20 11:45 AM)

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OfflineRevolutiontcm
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl] * 2
    #17231244 - 11/16/12 06:36 PM (12 years, 21 days ago)

:werd:

Edited by Revolutiontcm (11/16/12 06:53 PM)

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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Revolutiontcm] * 16
    #17231313 - 11/16/12 06:48 PM (12 years, 21 days ago)

BACK TO TOP <-Click



This was a sorghum grain jar contaminated with mold, probably Dactylium(cobweb) note to clear difference in healthy white mycelium with mold mycelium. - Mycotylium

This image has a graphic description, please read the photo Bodhisatta

This is blue bruising, it's very common and not a contamination. It is an indicator that the cake has been physically contacted (touched, picked up) or is getting to dry, increase misting and check your humidity if you see blue bruising in areas that you know you did not contact - Tsmtbs07 

Cobweb mold(Dactylium) on a coir/verm substrate - Hoobatech

Cobweb mold colonizing inside 1/2 pint jar - Tmethyl

A disturbing mixture of metabolites, and bacteria, I hope your jars never look like this! - Tmethyl

Trichoderma on coir/verm, pre-sporeulated trich(not yet turned green[upper portion of pic]) - MashedGlasses

Bacterial contamination in a BRF cake jar - Trip352

Cubensis mycelium, meeting with the mycelium of a contaminant mushroom mycelium, this is a tricky one. Cubensis is more silky, and always flows, notice how the contaminant mushroom mycelium does not flow, and looks similar to cobweb mold - Tmethyl

Fungal gnat, or close species. This is what happens when gnats lay eggs in your grain jars, you can see the enzymes secreted by the maggots are not only killing the mycelium, but liquifying the grains, the maggots may of also brought in some bacteria. This jar is garbage - Tmethyl

Heavy Lipstick Mold contamination (Geotrichum candidium) in red areas. Pink mold(Neurospora) in purple areas - KafkasDog

Trichoderma (mature) on monotub surface - Tmethyl

Trichoderma on coir (not green yet) - Paleopoint

Cobweb mold on monotub surface/side - Tmethyl

Baccilus bacteria contamination on BRF cake, agar, and grain spawn - Exiledmonkies

Yeast Contamination on LME(Light Malt Extract) agar - Tmethyl

An Aspergillus niger contamination, TOSS IT ASAP! - Tmethyl

Trichoderma (immature) contamination coir/coffee/verm substrate, the trichoderma is not green yet, it hasn't sporulated - FrankHorrigan

Early trichoderma on coir substrate, monotub (immature, but green is visible if you look close) - Don Quixote

Trichoderma on grain spawn, trich mycelium is visible - TrancendingLife

Are there even words to describe this? It's Apergillus, trichoderma, nuerospora, penicillium, and ganoderma mycelium.. on wood - Tmethyl

Heavy bacterial contamination in WBS spawn - TrancendingLife

Trichoderma/Aspergillus in spawn jar, panaeolus cyanescens - TheCyndicate

Aspergillus contamination in spawn jar (similar to trich but not the same) the very last picture is oyster mycelium eating the contamination, oyster mycelium is very tough. - Tmethyl

Extremely contaminated monotub(s), most of it is Trichoderma, but there is some cobweb, and I'm SURE some other nasty shit in there - Jenkinz

Trichoderma contaminated monotub, it's fruiting as a last resort to get out some spores before the trich annihilates it - Numnum59

Cubensis fruits showing the classic signs of verticillium bacterial contamination (deformed fruit, brown speckles on stipe), the last 3 pictures display some other effects verticillium may have on your fruits(grey caps, peeling, cracking, etc) -  Rohr (First2pics) - SuchSmartMonkeys (Last3Pics)
]
A beautiful example of Penicillium contamination on agar - Amanita Virosa

Aspergillus contaminated spawn jar on left, clean jar on right - Amanita Virosa

Trichoderma before it turned green (sporulated) on coir/verm substrate - Timehole

Not sure exactly where to start on these 2 jars, but your jars should never look like this! - Jcoonan

Trichoderma and other contaminations in these disgusting spawn jars - RogerRabbit

Multiple bacterial contaminations on agar - Dmonkey1

Trichoderma in grain spawn jars, and massive bacterial contamination in last 2 jars - TrancendingLife

More pink mold in these BRF jars probably Nuerospora - Jacobwtyler

Mold, and nasty bacteria - Creekfreek

Bacterial presence in this jar - Changealot

Pseudomas bacterial contamination, note the brown spotted areas, rotted areas, etc. Included microscopy of bacteria. - Bodhisatta

Cobweb mold in jars and on agar dishes. - Bodhisatta

Sour smelling white mold covering bulk substrate, look carefully. - Bodhisatta

Bacteria on agar(first 2 photos) Aspergillius mold in jars(3rd photo) Mold on agar(last photo) - Bodhisatta







This is the most common problem with using a PMP(poor mans pod) fruiting chamber, nowhere near enough FAE. These cakes are getting fresh air, but not enough to get rid of the c02 building up, so the cakes have developed heavy aerial mycelium, and the mushrooms are skinny and wimpy from trying to escape the bad environment, we recommend using an SGFC fruiting chamber nowadays, the days of the PMP are gone, for this exact reason - Creekfreek

This is what happens when a culture receives NO LIGHT - Doc_D

NO FAE, this is what happens to a cake which is being suffocated - Bree (and K1ngsp4de)

Very low FAE, causing some very skinny oddly shaped mushrooms - TrancendingLife

Poor FAE. Bad tub design. PastyWhite

The blue/grey tint on this monotub is from drying out, it will NEVER pin in these conditions - The1sttofall

Some suffering albino's, they are insufficient in FAE among other things, don't let your mushrooms look like this - Cronicr

The pic says it all, very poor FAE, very poor lighting, and other issues - Dodgem

This is what happens to a cake which is given nearly no FAE, and possible bad lighting. It's not happy, note the fuzzy bases of the mushrooms, this indicated low FAE, also notice the dark discolorations on the caps(not the dark purple, that's spores), this is waterlogging, it is being over misted - Kinetic

This is an insufficient environment, because pins only developed where the trash bag liner was laying on the sub. This means the rest of the substrate was not humid enough. This picture is also 100% proof of the wax paper casing concept working - DeadPhan

Here are some tiny pins caused by a dryer than normal substrate, dry subs can cayse tiny mushrooms, and even large-scale aborts - NatureBoy

This is aerial mycelium, it's an indicator of low FAE high c02 in the fruiting chamber - Eyeless_Cat

Aerial mycelium on BRF cake - Trip352

Cracking caps, low humidity, dry air, not enough misting, etc - SuchSmartMonkeys

Heavily over misted, notice the dark caps, with a caramel glaze look, they are near abortion due top over misting. There is also pooling water on the substrate surface, it is turning yellow because of the presence of bacteria. The mycelium is battling the bacteria by secreting metabolites/enzymes(yellow) - DeadPhan

Serious lack of FAE(Fresh Air Exchange) on BRF cake. Note the small caps, and long skinny stipe(stems) trying to escape high c02 levels - Pastywhyte

Cubensis fruits all damaged by over saturation, it looks similar to dry air damage. These fruits are waterlogged and were soaked for 1.5day straight - Tmethyl

Heavily over misted(leading to aborted fruits, and possible bacterial contamination) and insufficient lighting(tall skinny small caped fruits) - Mattsls101 
 
Pic 1 is heavily over-misted, and it also had insufficient lighting. Note the aborts, pic 2 is the bottom of a monotub displaying a ton of aborted bottom pins, there is also a high likelihood of these pins being contaminated with bacteria - Twistedty

These mushrooms are growing in a very hostile environment, and appear to be contaminated by a gay rabbit - RogerRabbit

I don't even know what to say about this tray, I don't know wtf he did to it... just avoid this :awesomenod: - Trip352

These Paneaolus cyanescens pins are aborting due to over misting, do not mist Pan pins, ever - Tmethyl



--------------------
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Invisiblehoobatech

Registered: 08/16/04
Posts: 285
Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl] * 2
    #17231510 - 11/16/12 07:19 PM (12 years, 21 days ago)

:thumbup:

Edited by hoobatech (11/26/12 05:01 PM)

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Invisiblehoobatech

Registered: 08/16/04
Posts: 285
Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: hoobatech] * 1
    #17231542 - 11/16/12 07:24 PM (12 years, 21 days ago)

:thumbup:

Edited by hoobatech (11/26/12 05:01 PM)

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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: hoobatech] * 5
    #17232067 - 11/16/12 08:55 PM (12 years, 21 days ago)

BACK TO TOP <-Click

Genetic Mutations

It's clearly laughing at you, "git gud scrub!" - Tmethyl

This thing pregnant? I sure hope so - Tmethyl

Some upside-downers - Tmethyl

The "alien egg" :ooo: - Tmethyl

PE blob/mutants - TheNilsMeister

Wtf happened here? Oh god why? - SmokeyMcPot

Amazing genetics on this cap - DrFunkNshine

You going to let this mutant mock you like that? - Dodgem

Tits! It has tits!! - Creekfreek

Mutated and discolored gills, mutation - Applesmasher420

The 'praying monk' mutant - Applesmasher420

Corkscrew mutant! - Applesmasher420

This mutant.. is a fuckin' wreck :tongue: - Mush_room

A beautiful and intricate mutant(This is a picture of the gills) - Timehole

This is called 'pumpkin' genetics - Tmethyl

Beautiful double decker mutant - Trip352

A wtf mutant.. wtf? - Trip352

Neat mutants - Doc_d

Nice rosecombing mutants - FortinbraGhost

Mutants, and an especially LOVELY double decker mutant, growing upside down - Notahacker420

Some seriously impressive genetic diversity in this grow - JarryDee

Some basic first flush Penis Envy cubensis mutants - Hoobatech

Another double decker mutation - Timehole

Tentacle-like mutations on these cubensis fruits - RogerRabbit

Mutant Chantrelle (Cantharellus cibarius) growing right side up - RogerRabbit

Some interesting mutations - Exiledmonkies

Elephant mutants - Exiledmonkies

The 'shy' mutant - Exiledmonkies

Chubby mutations - Exiledmonkies

Mutants, some 'rosecombing' of the gills - MoGrow

A cool mutant, with a blob on top - Hoobatech

Mutant with it's close friend - Mykes Logos





--------------------
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl] * 9
    #17245154 - 11/19/12 08:18 AM (12 years, 19 days ago)

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Edible, medicinal, & novelty mushroom mycelium

Glow in the dark mushroom mycelium (Omphalotus nidiformis) - Tmethyl

Edible Enoki mycelium (Flammulina velutipes) looks very cobweb-like, that's normal for this species - Tmethyl

Blue oyster mycelium in grain spawn jar - Tmethyl

Great shots of Lions Mane(Hericium erinaceus) mycelium on agar - Amanita Virosa

Reishi(Ganoderma Luccidum) mycelium on agar - Amanita Virosa

Cordyceps mycelium on LME(Light malt Extract) agar - RogerRabbit




Edible, medicinal, & novelty mushrooms

Omphalotus Nidiformis (Ghost mushroom) this is a species of bioluminescent(glowing) mushroom, cultivated indoors - Tmethyl

Young Blue Oysters(pleurotus columbinus), growing directly from jar mouths - Tmethyl

Enoki (Flamulina Velutipes) mature fruits [They appear this way when they have a good FAE, good FAE is not preferred for this species]- Transcendinglife

Enoki properly deprived of FAE to get the trademark tall stem small cap growth, which is highly recommended for this species - TrancendingLife

Lions mane(Hericium erinaceus) fruiting bodies - Amanita Virosa

Blue oyster(Pleurotus ostreatus var. columbinus) fruits - Amanita Virosa

King oyster(Pleurotus eryngii) primordia - Amanita Virosa

Shitake(Lentinula edodes) fruiting on blocks - Amanita Virosa

Maitake(Grifola frondosa) mature fruits first 2 pics, Maitake primordia last 2 pics - Jeff

Oyster grows(Pleurotus ostreatus), pinning on straw, mature indoor fruits, and an oyster basket - RogerRabbit

Reishi(Ganoderma Luccidum) fruits on multiple substrates, A truly beautiful medicinal fungus - RogerRabbit

Shitake(Lentinula edodes) grows done right - RogerRabbit



--------------------
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Invisiblecreekfreek
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Tmethyl] * 1
    #17283575 - 11/26/12 08:35 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

:like:

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InvisibleRevok
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: creekfreek] * 1
    #17283588 - 11/26/12 08:41 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

How about a shot of "How it shouldnt Look"? Lipstick mold Contamination in Rye jars.


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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Revok] * 1
    #17283593 - 11/26/12 08:42 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

Quote:

KafkasDog said:
How about a shot of "How it shouldnt Look"? Lipstick mold Contamination in Rye jars.





^^I will never understand how anyone could let something like this happen.

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InvisibleRevok
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: PussyFart] * 1
    #17283596 - 11/26/12 08:44 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

Drunken G2G Hack....

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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: Revok] * 1
    #17283597 - 11/26/12 08:44 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

:drunkdriver:

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Invisiblebillb
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: PussyFart] * 1
    #17283643 - 11/26/12 09:02 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

:takingnotes:

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InvisibleFrankHorrigan
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: billb] * 1
    #17283904 - 11/26/12 10:26 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)


Mature cubensis fruit.


Cubensis pinset, day four of fruiting.


Rhizomorphic growth on WBS.


Pan Cyan, two different isolates.


Epic rhizos on agar.


--------------------

Yes, you can bump my old threads with a question.
Here is how I get things done.
You should take a look. :hehehe:


Frank's tips and tricks. Updated on 3/21/14
AMU- Get an answer here -AMU

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Offlinetabiyeh
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) *DELETED* [Re: billb] * 1
    #17283911 - 11/26/12 10:29 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

Post deleted by tabiyeh

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Invisiblecreekfreek
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: tabiyeh] * 1
    #17283980 - 11/26/12 10:50 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

Quote:

tabiyeh said:
My only suggestion to make this even more useful for new members would be to limit, and even better avoid, using shroomery lingo such as MS, PC, LME, etc. those are pretty simple but I know on day one of being a member it's already a lot to take in, spelling out the full word makes it so much easier to understand.




There is a page with all of the definitions on it... its best if you learn them and be comfortable with them.
http://www.shroomery.org/5122/The-Shroomery-Mushroom-Glossary

Edited by creekfreek (11/26/12 10:54 AM)

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OfflinePussyFart
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: tabiyeh] * 1
    #17283989 - 11/26/12 10:53 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

Quote:

tabiyeh said:
This is great, as a new member this helps a lot. My only suggestion to make this even more useful for new members would be to limit, and even better avoid, using shroomery lingo such as MS, PC, LME, etc. those are pretty simple but I know on day one of being a member it's already a lot to take in, spelling out the full word makes it so much easier to understand. Again I want to say thanks for this post, helps a lot!



Or they could just explain the lingo as they go......LME(Light Malt Extract)...G2G(Grain to Grain)....

I try to do this every post...but yea I can understand...but at the same time as stated above there is a whole page dedicated to abbreviations.

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Offlinetabiyeh
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) *DELETED* [Re: creekfreek] * 1
    #17284010 - 11/26/12 10:59 AM (12 years, 12 days ago)

Post deleted by tabiyeh

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Invisiblehoobatech

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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: tabiyeh] * 1
    #17285852 - 11/26/12 05:07 PM (12 years, 12 days ago)

Quote:

tabiyeh said:
My only suggestion to make this even more useful for new members would be to limit, and even better avoid, using shroomery lingo such as MS, PC, LME, etc. those are pretty simple but I know on day one of being a member it's already a lot to take in, spelling out the full word makes it so much easier to understand.





I Agree, anything intro or pictorial for newcomers should be abbreviated and explained for ease of use

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OfflineTmethylM
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Re: How it should look - A GUIDE FOR NEW CULTIVATORS (under construction) [Re: hoobatech] * 3
    #17286147 - 11/26/12 05:45 PM (12 years, 12 days ago)

BACK TO TOP <-Click



General Information & FAQ

By: Notahacker420 and RogerRabbit


Light, Temperature, and Pinning Triggers...

Jars/bags/tubs/trays should colonize @ room temperature getting ambient/indirect light.

Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate.

Light is a secondary pinning trigger. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor.

P. Cubensis are a tropical species. You could colonize at 70F and fruit at 80F with great results.

Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm.

You want ambient/indirect light(on a 12/12 schedule preferably) for colonization and consolidation.

You want direct/intense 6500K light on a 12/12 schedule for fruiting.

Optimal temps are mid 70s throughout the whole grow, but anywhere from 70F-80F is acceptable.

Incubation is outdated/uneeded unless temps in the range stated above cannot be kept.

The inside of the jar is always a few degrees warmer than the outside because the mycellium produces heat..mycellium tends to stall at temps above 86F , and contams thrive.

Fruiting at cooler temps tends to produce denser, meatier fruits, while fruiting at higher temps will often produce hollow, less dense stems.

LCs From Spores...
LCs from spores are sketchy. No spore syringe/print is ever 100% clean.

This is because the cap from which the spores came was more than likely fruited in the open air.

You cannot know 100% if an LC is good or not by visual inspection.

Test jars must be shot up and grown out.

Conditions are not correct for germination of spores in sugar LCs, grain LCs or extra light malt extract based LCs are perfect for spore germination.

For best results, make LCs from a fully colonized grain jar(GLC) or from an agar wedge.

Or skip LC entirely and just G2G(Grain to Grain) transfers to expand your mycellium.

Proper SGFC

A proper SGFC should have 1/4"(6mm) holes spaced 2" apart in a grid pattern on all 6 sides(top and bottom) and filled with 5" of damp perlite.

The chamber must also be raised so that air can pass up thru the bottom holes, and wick up moisture from the water evaporating off the perlite, this will create a very humid environment inside the chamber.

A SGFC works off of the natural air currents in a room with no fans, mess with those currents and your humidity drops.

FAE

FAE = Fresh Air Exchange.

Lack of FAE leads to aerial mycellium, and mycellium crawling up the stems, or "fuzzy feet".

Bulging mycellium around the cake is sometimes an indicator that the cakes needed more time after full colonization for consolidation.

Heat and Potency

This info gets repeated daily...

The actives in muchrooms dont break down until FAR past 300F, while most dehydrators never make it past 165F.

I use my dehydrator that gets to 150F+ for 12 hours and I get completely dry fruits with no  potency loss.

Psilocybin & Psilocin Chemistry

Use Heat!

SHIT THAT GETS REPEATED DAILY

Please do not refer to spawning a bulk substrate as a casing. Coir/verm is bulk substrate material.

They used to refer to a bulk substrate as a casing, but now it just adds confusion. Its called a spawning to a bulk substrate, not casing.

A casing layer is a non nutritious top layer usually applied to a fully colonized bulk substrate for moisture retention and pinning. When you do this it is called casing, see where it can get confusing?

P.Cubensis do no benefit from a casing layer.(usually)

*CASINGS*

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
One more thing:

You guys seriously need to stop referring to your substrate trays as 'casings'.  That is an incorrect term unless all you have is a casing layer and no manure, grains, or anything.  Nobody grows mushrooms on 'casings', period.

The casing layer is only the top layer on a colonized bulk substrate, nothing else.  'Casing' sure as hell isn't a name for a mushroom growing project.
RR




*METABOLITES / MYC PISS*

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Mycelium does not urinate, does not have a bladder, and there is no such thing as myc piss.  Why this horrible disinformation persists after we've known for over 50 years that these liquids are antibiotic and released in response to bacteria is beyond comprehension.
Next time you get sick, ask the doctor for a myc piss shot instead of antibiotics and see him look at you like you just bumped your head or fell off a turnip truck.
If your grains are infected, there will be metabolites.  If you've colonized at above normal room temperature, bacteria has been stimulated and thus the metabolites.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
It's not even a waste product, and people who call it piss are ignorant.  The liquid is excreted to help break down the substrate, and in a different formulation is produced to fight contaminant molds and bacteria.  These are the products antibiotics are made of.



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Mycelium does not urinate, not is it infused with bacteria.  Metabolites are anti-bacterial in fact.  Mix it with water and use it on your plants.  It's an excellent fertilizer.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
The mycelium secretes enzymes to help break down the substrate for digestion and also to help ward off competitors.  If you're using excessive temperature or have excessive contaminants, you'll have more of these secretions, which have nothing to do with urination.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
These enzymes can be many colors, including red.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
These enzymes are secreted to help break down substrate materials and also to help ward off competing organisms.
RR



Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Also remember the pH will naturally swing towards acidic as the mycelium secretes enzymes to break down the substrate.  Use gypsum to help prevent it from going too low.
RR




*Overlay*

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Overlay is bullshit and most of it relates to a picture of a normal casing layer in TMC that is incorrectly labeled as overlay.

A few months ago, I 'jokingly' said I'd ban the next person who asked an overlay question and it worked . . .until now. :lol:

What happens is one person asks about overlay, and for the next six months, every new grower thinks he has overlay.

I can guarantee you don't have it, since I've only seen it a handful of times, and I've been known to have grown a few projects in my day.  Full colonization of the casing layer is not overlay.  Give lots of fresh air and light, while misting a few times daily and you'll fruit soon.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/9467709#9467709

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
I've seen overlay two or three times in 40 years, so I doubt seriously you are seeing it, especially on an uncased bulk substrate.  It's common for new growers to mistake full colonization for overlay.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17163830#17163830

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
By definition, a bulk substrate can't get 'overlay'.




http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/15803177#15803177

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
I can count on one hand the number of times I've seen overlay in 40 years.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/13797279#13797279

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Uncased bulk substrates should be left alone and covered until 100% colonized.  Overlay is a vastly misunderstood phenomena which only affects species such as agaricus(button mushrooms) which require a casing layer.

Whatever you do don't deep scratch.  That's a failed method which was disproved 30 years ago.
RR



http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/13547569#13547569



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Quote:

RogerRabbit said:
Adding verm to grains tends to help make up for sloppy preparation but leads to invitro pin formation in the jars.
RR





Mushroom Cultivation Abbreviations


50/50  = 50% vermiculite/50% peat moss
aq.    = aqueous (water based)
BRF    = Brown Rice Flour
CFL(s) = Compact Florescent Light bulb(s)
coir  = coco coir; coconut fiber; coconut "hair"
contam = contamination
DNR    = Dunk N' Roll
FAE    = Fresh Air Exchange
FC    = Fruiting Chamber
G2G    = Grain to Grain [transfer]
GB    = Glove Box
GE    = Gas Exchange
GH    = Green House
GLC    = Grain Liquid Culture
HEPA  = High Efficiency Particulate Arrestor
hpoo  = horse manure
inoc  = inoculate or inoculant
karo  = A brand of light corn syrup (dextrose)
LC    = Liquid Culture
LME    = Light Malt Extract
Martha = "Martha Stewart everyday stationary storage closet", a shelf inside a zippered plastic cover
MEA    = Malt Extract Agar
MS    = Multi-Spore
MT    = Mono Tub
myc    = mycelium
PC    = Pressure Cooker; sometimes used as shorthand for P. cubensis
PDA    = Potato Dextrose Agar
PF    = Psilocybe Fanaticus, author of the "PF Tek"
pin    = primordia, the beginning of a mushroom fruit body
PMP    = Poor Man's Pod
PSI    = Pounds per Square Inch
RH    = Relative Humidity
RR    = RogerRabbit
SAB    = Still-Air Box
SFD('s)= Synthetic Filter-Disks
SGFC  = Shot Gun Fruiting Chamber
SWIM  = Someone Who Isn't Me
tek    = technique
TiT    = Tub in Tub
TMC    = Paul Stamets' "The Mushroom Cultivator"
Trich. = Trichoderma
verm  = vermiculite
WBS    = Wild Bird Seed


--------------------
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