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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Archespore]
    #29516596 -

Whatever happened to the Trafalmadorian? Account got instant TC status, I was buckling up for some eye-watering pics, but can't say I've seen them post anything, really.


--------------------
No nation, no border
Fight law and order


Species grown so far

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Churpee Choozle]
    #29516854 -



Does a true casing make much more thick mycelium than the cv down below it?

I used casing for the first time. Just a few days ago I cased a yellow umbo grow which had a very thin pseudo casing applied at spawn. When the top layer was fully colonized I waited two days and added a thin, a bit less than half an inch, thick peat verm casing, buffered at around 8ph with prickling and gypsum. The mycelium which is now starting to poke through is very thick, when looking at the sides of the shoeboxes, it's completely different. In the picture you can se the top layer just below the thick casing. It looked good, healthy and not nearly as thick

1. Is this normal?
2. Is this going to create a "mated" marshmallow surface? If so, should I patch, add a new layer?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: koma23]
    #29516892 -

Im no pro but my pseudo-casing layers did that when I over hydrated them. One of them never produced and eventually triched, the other is now producing a half-assed flush now that it has dried out a little.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: RhyzoPhreak]
    #29516905 -

RhyzoPhreak said:
Im no pro but my pseudo-casing layers did that when I over hydrated them. One of them never produced and eventually triched, the other is now producing a half-assed flush now that it has dried out a little.



Hm, okey myb. It was more on the wet side of field capacity ... Which variety? Yellow Umbo tends to do that when I use a thick top layer and I think ochras are also prone to overlay.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: koma23] * 7
    #29516921 -

No question just a thank you to everyone that's helped me get where I am!

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: divineverdance]
    #29516938 -

My last batch of agar plates all came up with these yellowish contamination colonies. What is this and why might these have shown up on all of my plates?



We are in a bit of a hit wave where I’m at, could this be causing this?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: koma23] * 1
    #29516942 -

koma23 said:
RhyzoPhreak said:
Im no pro but my pseudo-casing layers did that when I over hydrated them. One of them never produced and eventually triched, the other is now producing a half-assed flush now that it has dried out a little.



Hm, okey myb. It was more on the wet side of field capacity ... Which variety? Yellow Umbo tends to do that when I use a thick top layer and I think ochras are also prone to overlay.



I only grow cubes so I can't speak for any other species, but a wise man once told me "you should only get a couple drops out of it when you squeeze it like it owes you money" and I have found that to be very true.

It is better to increase the amount of substrate you use than increase the amount of moisture in your substrate. Stipe's recommendation of a 1:6 spawn ratio has done me well. Link is in my signature

Edit: link is within the HHG in my signature. Sorry I thought I had a direct link but it is Stipe n Caps pseudo-casing tek.

Edited by RhyzoPhreak (03/15/26 07:35 PM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ElGringoGrande]
    #29516948 -

Warm weather will not cause bacteria to spontaneously generate inside your dishes.

Incomplete sterilization could allow bacteria to persist in your agar, but look where those spots are: towards the edges.

So, you should take a look at your technique.  Were these poured after sterilization?  Did you wear gloves, sanitize with iso, etc?  Think about the way you poured (where the dish was, where the lid was, where your hands were) and about whether the air was truly still.

Also consider the way you wrapped them (whether poured before or after sterilization).  Are they wrapped???  Could you be using the wrong wrapping material, or handling them too carelessly while wrapping, or something like that?


--------------------
How I make spore prints
FFU build

"The idiots are taking have taken over" -NOFX

Edited by andymc (03/15/26 07:38 PM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: andymc]
    #29517054 -

Thanks andy, lots of good stuff to consider. Yes they are wrapped, just hard to see in the picture. I’ll try another batch tomorrow and be much more careful with my technique. Ill be back in here if I get the same results

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ElGringoGrande]
    #29517376 -

Heavy generalization.... cubes are the standard for comparison. So : Nats are the best cubes... Less load more euphoria, and pans might be the most potent and cleanest?

Generalization from reading... I haven't seen or messed with nats myself, only cubes and pans. But if the above is largely true I might sub out my cube efforts for nats whole still focusing on pans


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Kunta Kente]
    #29517377 -

Kunta Kente said:
Heavy generalization.... cubes are the standard for comparison. So : Nats are the best cubes... Less load more euphoria, and pans might be the most potent and cleanest?

Generalization from reading... I haven't seen or messed with nats myself, only cubes and pans. But if the above is largely true I might sub out my cube efforts for nats whole still focusing on pans



my most unpleasant trip was with nats.
i threw them all in the river


--------------------
the observer is the observed
            j. krishnamurti


>The Hitchhiker‘s Guide to the Shroomery<

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: RhyzoPhreak]
    #29517385 -

RhyzoPhreak said:
koma23 said:
RhyzoPhreak said:
Im no pro but my pseudo-casing layers did that when I over hydrated them. One of them never produced and eventually triched, the other is now producing a half-assed flush now that it has dried out a little.



Hm, okey myb. It was more on the wet side of field capacity ... Which variety? Yellow Umbo tends to do that when I use a thick top layer and I think ochras are also prone to overlay.



I only grow cubes so I can't speak for any other species, but a wise man once told me "you should only get a couple drops out of it when you squeeze it like it owes you money" and I have found that to be very true.

It is better to increase the amount of substrate you use than increase the amount of moisture in your substrate. Stipe's recommendation of a 1:6 spawn ratio has done me well. Link is in my signature

Edit: link is within the HHG in my signature. Sorry I thought I had a direct link but it is Stipe n Caps pseudo-casing tek.



Yep, I have done YU with Stipe's method thus far but haven't gotten the best results, that's why I'm experimenting with a true casing now.

Regarding moisture, some of TC's here (I remember Faht, maybe Ted) heavily mist the casing upon applying, almost turning it into mud. Idk who gave you the advice of it being on the low side of the field capacity but Im not sure that's necessary the only way it works ...

Tnx

Edited by koma23 (03/16/26 05:16 AM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: chris77]
    #29517403 -

chris77 said:
Kunta Kente said:
Heavy generalization.... cubes are the standard for comparison. So : Nats are the best cubes... Less load more euphoria, and pans might be the most potent and cleanest?

Generalization from reading... I haven't seen or messed with nats myself, only cubes and pans. But if the above is largely true I might sub out my cube efforts for nats whole still focusing on pans



my most unpleasant trip was with nats.
i threw them all in the river



Assuming we're talking about ochra, I personally find them more energetic than I like.

But I have friends that really like them and I grow them occasionally.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29517457 -

koma23 said:
RhyzoPhreak said:
koma23 said:
RhyzoPhreak said:
Im no pro but my pseudo-casing layers did that when I over hydrated them. One of them never produced and eventually triched, the other is now producing a half-assed flush now that it has dried out a little.



Hm, okey myb. It was more on the wet side of field capacity ... Which variety? Yellow Umbo tends to do that when I use a thick top layer and I think ochras are also prone to overlay.



I only grow cubes so I can't speak for any other species, but a wise man once told me "you should only get a couple drops out of it when you squeeze it like it owes you money" and I have found that to be very true.

It is better to increase the amount of substrate you use than increase the amount of moisture in your substrate. Stipe's recommendation of a 1:6 spawn ratio has done me well. Link is in my signature

Edit: link is within the HHG in my signature. Sorry I thought I had a direct link but it is Stipe n Caps pseudo-casing tek.



Yep, I have done YU with Stipe's method thus far but haven't gotten the best results, that's why I'm experimenting with a true casing now.

Regarding moisture, some of TC's here (I remember Faht, maybe Ted) heavily mist the casing upon applying, almost turning it into mud. Idk who gave you the advice of it being on the low side of the field capacity but Im not sure that's necessary the only way it works ...

Tnx



Heavily misting a psuedo casing layer isn’t the same as mixing in overly saturated substrate with your grain.

Stipes top pseudo layer tech does not mention misting the pseudo casing layer either. Which the normal rule is follow the tech as it is written.

When I follow Stipes tech, my mix for 66qt tubs is at the “squeeze it like it owes you money” two drops capacity. After I apply the pseudo I give it 5 quick blasts with my mister and that’s it. But Stipes tek does not specifically say to do it.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Splittinghairs]
    #29517478 -

Splittinghairs said:
Heavily misting a psuedo casing layer isn’t the same as mixing in overly saturated substrate with your grain.

Stipes top pseudo layer tech does not mention misting the pseudo casing layer either. Which the normal rule is follow the tech as it is written.

When I follow Stipes tech, my mix for 66qt tubs is at the “squeeze it like it owes you money” two drops capacity. After I apply the pseudo I give it 5 quick blasts with my mister and that’s it. But Stipes tek does not specifically say to do it.



I said nothing about heavily misting Stipe's thick top layer.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: koma23] * 1
    #29517500 -

Your original question is regarding a true casing if I’m not mistaken?

The post from Rhyzo he talks about having his field capacity down to a hard squeeze of only getting a couple of drops. He states he is referring to Stipe’s tek.

You had commented that

Quote:
Regarding moisture, some of TC's here (I remember Faht, maybe Ted) heavily mist the casing upon applying, almost turning it into mud. Idk who gave you the advice of it being on the low side of the field capacity but Im not sure that's necessary the only way it works ...




I have never used a true casing. So whether or not you can/can not turn it into virtually mud I would have no clue on. Can’t say I will ever try it either.

However, in regards to the tek Rhyzo is using, it would could lead to some undesirable situations especially with unclean spawn with the 1:5 or 1:6 ratio you inevitably use with stilpes P9.

Just pointing out the casing scenario and the P9 are not the same.

Edit. And yes. You do say not the only way it works. But again, making sure scenarios don’t get crossed. One of the hardest lessons I’ve had to lean on this site is not mixing up different applications processes with another’s

Edited by Splittinghairs (03/16/26 10:29 AM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Splittinghairs] * 1
    #29517527 -

Splittinghairs said:
Your original question is regarding a true casing if I’m not mistaken?

The post from Rhyzo he talks about having his field capacity down to a hard squeeze of only getting a couple of drops. He states he is referring to Stipe’s tek.

You had commented that

Quote:
Regarding moisture, some of TC's here (I remember Faht, maybe Ted) heavily mist the casing upon applying, almost turning it into mud. Idk who gave you the advice of it being on the low side of the field capacity but Im not sure that's necessary the only way it works ...




I have never used a true casing. So whether or not you can/can not turn it into virtually mud I would have no clue on. Can’t say I will ever try it either.

However, in regards to the tek Rhyzo is using, it would could lead to some undesirable situations especially with unclean spawn with the 1:5 or 1:6 ratio you inevitably use with stilpes P9.

Just pointing out the casing scenario and the P9 are not the same.

Edit. And yes. You do say not the only way it works. But again, making sure scenarios don’t get crossed. One of the hardest lessons I’ve had to lean on this site is not mixing up different applications processes with another’s



Yes, as I said I've been using Stipe's tek for YU but switched over to trying casing.

A casing is a casing layer and not a top layer/pseudo casing : )

Appreciate your help mate.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: koma23]
    #29517533 -

No worries! And sorry if my post came across as some sort of call out. Was not my intention.

Best of luck on your casing Adventure!

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Splittinghairs] * 2
    #29517586 -

You don't want a casing layer to be like mud unless you are working with like zaps or something.

The mycelium needs to be able to poke through and form aerial hyphae, which means it needs to colonize it some and should have enough structure for mycelium to breathe.  Once it's colonized it's a bit more forgiving, but you don't want standing water as that will cause pins to abort.

This is ochra.  Sorry I don't have any side shots, but it didn't do the weird side thing I saw earlier in the thread.




--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: tree frog]
    #29517650 -

tree frog said:


Hot damn your surfaces always look absolutely soaked compared to mine lol. But like we mentioned in the cope thread, your peat moss is different than 'sphagnum peat moss' I can find.

Very pretty pictures as always :loveeyes:


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

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