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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29500008 -

Yeah there's always going to be the few that drift in under the door.  That's why I'm so fond of tubs, if it's a problem I can just tape them off and cover the vents with micropore tape.  I imagine the process is a bit more difficult with a tent.


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Mr Piggy] * 1
    #29500019 -

Yeah that's why I started playing around with pheno's auto tubs and eventually came up with my own variation.

Also put dust screens over the computer fans.  It's not gnat season yet but 🤞


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29500082 -

I noticed first gnat in the kitchen today...

May everybody's space remain free of these little homewreckers!

I'm having to rethink my tent dreams and instead go for a small shelved tent like 60cm x 120cm x 220cm ish for the AIO projects (bagging em' like I'm mini-fahster) and all AIO's moving forward (they'll be a permeant fixture me thinks) and then shoeboxes inside 60L monotubs stacked with some large micron filters slapped about.

Essentially keep the AIO's going for the pans and make specific fruiting chambers for shoeboxes for stuff like tamps and semps. Although there's a tamp AIO cooking now, they really seem to dig the atmosphere being ready to go in there.

If you were going from LC I dunno how well they would do, might depend on species but agar is a different story.

Have you noc'd any with LC T-F?


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: ansr]
    #29500091 -

ansr said:
Put my only old Pan culture on agar to give it one more try but it seems weak. Four days since I put it on agar

I'd get fresh spores but even spores are illegal in my country now  :mad2:




I made some transfers but the mycelium so slow... Is it even possible to get mushrooms when it's like that or should I give up on Pans?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: ansr]
    #29500094 -

I would give them a few days. It can take them a little bit after transfer to pick up speed.

But yeah, if they still look weak 2 days from now I would give up on it.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r]
    #29500095 -

I don't use LC, but some of the old hands that figured out how to do pans consistently, did a lot of LC to AIO bags.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29500102 -

tree frog said:
On appropriate media I find mycelium speed on agar to be the same across everything.  But I haven't grown a cube in years so who knows on that end.

Same with grains.  No difference in speed.


Hmmm...I guess something is wrong with my workflow or something. I've done quite a bit of agar work and have usually found on 0.5% LME 1% agar that TTBVI is fastest, then cyans followed closely by bisporus. Both initial germination and further propagation.

My grain performance...Maybe I'm over isolating on agar by taking too small an arc? I usually do a 3-4mm cube at the best leading edge, taken from the best looking sectors on MS, to T1 with 3 per plate (so usually 2 plates), and again small sectors to T2, then go to grain with a large sector "chunk."

So MS > T1 Bisporus A, B, and C > T2 Bis A B and C > Grain BisA, Grain BisB, Grain BisC.

Is this similar to your workflow? I can only think me over-isolating is the reason I'm getting 'pretty good agar growth' and 'pretty slow grain growth other than cubes and TTBVI.'


Interesting on the species split there. And I had to look up why literally distinct species can mate in fungi (you know, the whole definition of a species thing for most of the rest of the animal kingdom), which was an interesting read.

Mr Piggy said:
Preemptively sprinkle mosquito bits (the kind with bti) in all of the pots.  I collect house plants like they will fix my mental health and I have to drop bits in each one to prevent gnats.  It works on the gnats, but aside from a lil dopamine bump each time I get one, the plants haven’t fixed me yet.


I had never heard of bti....we don't have too many gnats but this sounds way better than messing with mildly soapy plates of vinegar when we do have a few.


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kunta Kente]
    #29500171 -

Honestly I don't pay a lot of attention to agar and grain speed.  Nothing feels abnormally slow, and I'm running a lot of projects :shrug:

That said I haven't ran them on anything other than popcorn, wheat, and AIO since I first started.  And then both BVI and bispo stalled on rye and millet.

My work flow is germ.  If it looks like a clean dikaryon, I run it.  If not I transfer three to one plate.  If it's still ugly on t1  and I'm attached to it, I do clean up.

But my strategy is more like many eggs many baskets.

Here's an agar workflow for bisporus.  Three separate germ plates.  One San Diego, one Coleville, and one unknown from VL.

I ran three or four cultures off of this.




This one looked good on t1 so I ran all three.



This shiny worried me and I was attached because it's the VL print.



So I trenched it and cut a hole to catch bacteria.  The culture on the left looked slow which was suspicious so I inoculated multiple jars with the culture on the right.



--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29500181 -

and you prefer to transfer germ plate clean growth to grain, rather than T1's for what reason?

seems like you'd get such a small piece of a 'wedge' from germ plates by avoiding the places your loop touched (i assume you avoid that because bacteria is slower and would stay there without being obvious)

or are you going purposefully for multiple colonies on a germ plate?  how much myc goes to each jar?  I may need to unlearn the default of 'isolating', but even on clean germ plates I took tiny transfers of distinctly different colonies, and expanded those, then transfered to grain.  I don't even back up the cultures though, so i'm questioning why I even do that, because in the end, i'll just be after cloning/printing what fruits well.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29500187 -

Has anyone tried preparing sub with rice or oat husks instead of using straw/hay? I live in a large city and have no car so the only way I can get access to straw is at a pet shop, and here they charge what I consider to be extortionate amounts (around $6 per kilo). In addition to this, I find the process of cutting the straw to be extremely tedious and messy, especially when preparing large quantities. I suppose you could argue that the husks might yield a slightly less 'fluffy' sub (for lack of a better word) due to its small size, but I would have thought it would be more or less the same overall constitution as the straw, considering that both are grasses, so it should serve the same purpose. Does anyone have any insight? I could experiment but I've just suffered a failed attempt and am hoping to minimise the likelihood of it happening again at this time.


--------------------
Taking the 'I' out of 'I AM' since never and a day...

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic]
    #29500201 -

Generic said:
and you prefer to transfer germ plate clean growth to grain, rather than T1's for what reason?


Because I don't like washing plates.  And also this is a species I'm really familiar with and am comfortable doing it.

Quote:
seems like you'd get such a small piece of a 'wedge' from germ plates by avoiding the places your loop touched (i assume you avoid that because bacteria is slower and would stay there without being obvious)


I use grab and drags so bacteria tends to germinate in the cut, and the mycelium crawls out.

Quote:
or are you going purposefully for multiple colonies on a germ plate?  how much myc goes to each jar?


Yeah the grab and drag separates the colonies well.  Like I use the same germination technique to look for dikaryons with bisporus as I do to snag monos with cyans.  I just use more spores on the swab for bisporus since I don't need monos.

And I transfer as large a wedge as seems practical.  The germination plate got smaller inoculations.  The t1 plate like a third of each of those colonies into separate jars.  The trenched plate I split the clean culture into multiple jars so it was smaller wedges but still larger than the germ.

This is four t1 Pan India that went into four separate jars.  You can see how big the wedges are.  And those were the leading edges at the time.



Quote:
I may need to unlearn the default of 'isolating', but even on clean germ plates I took tiny transfers of distinctly different colonies, and expanded those, then transfered to grain.  I don't even back up the cultures though, so i'm questioning why I even do that, because in the end, i'll just be after cloning/prining what fruits well.


Keep in mind I've been doing this a while and I've always preferred small projects.  So I'm comfortable with my workflow partially due to experience, and partially because if I lose a jar I'm not heartbroken.

Which is me saying if you feel comfortable enough to run something off of a germ plate, go for it. But if you don't, don't take my workflow as Gospel.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Jericho_Button]
    #29500204 -

Just a couple of pages back kloakk was talking about rice hulls.  I'm sure he will be able to answer any questions that he didn't already answer on that page.

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/29499644#29499644


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29500415 -

So my setup is just AIO jars in a shoebox. The shoebox is then inside a big mono.

I make sure there is always some airflow and nothing is sealed up. Lids are always flipped, and sometimes I just use 1 lid. I manually exchange the air a little as well since there's no holes in the bottom.

My question was more trying to understand the process of pinning, and if increasing humidity in the chamber could prevent evaporation from the mycelium, or if extra humidity is always beneficial and always striving for 99% would help as long as I'm giving more FAE. This would be impossible to show in a picture and I'm sorry if when I said dual chambers that was confusing. This is my main question.

The setup is very straightforward, it's a small tub inside a big tub. That's it. I adjust the lids and mist the walls to affect humidity.

My meter seems to be fairly accurate, it's never always at 99% unless I mist the crap out of it and saturate everythinrg and then seal everything up tight. My meter seems to be accurate in my environment I'm sorry you guys have had poor success with meters. The meter has matched what much more expensive equipment has said as well. My meter is working fine.

Rephrasing here:
My question wasn't for my setup, it was on if adding in humidity (whether through misting or humidifier) could interfere with pinning (because less evaporation), vs. putting more water directly into substrate and it evaporating from the mycelium when exposed to dry air. I tried to make this straight up let me know if I didn't explain enough.

@ conzor, there's no manure man, I've read enough threads that I know it's possible without manure. Never once did I say I was scooping manure.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 1
    #29500609 -

I must have mis-read - I do apologise tuttled... I see now you're talking about using potting soil and not manure

Not reading that great wall of text though, pics first plz! Setup, jars, whatever. Show some progress. I'm making a coffee, rolling a spliff and I'll even do an example for you 👍

I'm just that kinda guy


Good morning brothers Nd' sisters! Big stretch!


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





Edited by conz0r (02/28/26 01:17 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Jericho_Button] * 3
    #29500652 -

Jericho_Button said:
Has anyone tried preparing sub with rice or oat husks instead of using straw/hay? I live in a large city and have no car so the only way I can get access to straw is at a pet shop, and here they charge what I consider to be extortionate amounts (around $6 per kilo). In addition to this, I find the process of cutting the straw to be extremely tedious and messy, especially when preparing large quantities.

I suppose you could argue that the husks might yield a slightly less 'fluffy' sub (for lack of a better word) due to its small size, but I would have thought it would be more or less the same overall constitution as the straw, considering that both are grasses, so it should serve the same purpose. Does anyone have any insight? I could experiment but I've just suffered a failed attempt and am hoping to minimise the likelihood of it happening again at this time.


I have not used rice hulls instead of straw, but I use rice hulls and straw in most of my substratet for exotics.

Rice hulls can only hold 5-10% of their own weigh in water which is very low, they only provide a very small amount of macro nutrients(NPK), has some micro nutrients(calcium, magnesium, sodium, zinc, and iron), and it has a high carbon to nitrogen ratio. The main reason I use rice hulls is for aeration, drainage, and structural integrity.

Straw on the other hand will hold 250% of it's own weight in water after draining, it has a pretty good NPK profile and I add it as a water and nitrogen source. I also believe it increases colonization speed, at least it seems like it.

That said, I wouldn't recommend using rice hulls instead of straw. I'm sorry to hear about your failed attempt, but I'm sure we could figure something out :awesomenod:

For one, I have had good results using a mix of 70/30 coir/cow manure compost. If you're in the US I've seen several people use black kow(brand) compost. You could also see if you can source straw pellets.

How and what are you trying to grow?


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 1
    #29500763 -

So this is where we're at...


^Quick honourable mention for the mystery mutant that's doing must better on her second flush <3


^Nec-D noc'd on the 18th (popcorn), it's slow starting, I suspect it wants higher temps.



^TTBVI also noc'd the 18th, I've just given her a shake post-pic.




^Komodo X TTBVI noc'd 18th and shaken 25th, it looks like It could be cased now but I'll wait till Monday!



^The Nec-D AIO is having slower just like the grain although it's having an easier time propagating I'd say, about 20-30% ahead of the grain.



^Eungai noc'd 18th shaken 25th, Monday I'll put her dress on. Hoping I don't "leave it to long" though. I'm tryna make sure they're settled before casing.



^Byron bay looking super tomatose, this is one I really want to work and get prints outta. There's no smell otherwise I'd be suspicious of how it looks. Doing a better than straight grain by 40-50% I'd say at this stage.



^That's Byron bay in grain, it's about 20-30% colonised, again this it wants higher temps which the insulating effect of the substrate in the AIO helps to achieve.



^The Eungai noc'd the 28th and shaken 25th, going to shoebox Monday. She's looking mighty healthy I'd say.

Some of the agar projects that are ok, 5 of 8 got bacterial contamination as well as the pan India but I'll consider it a success as there's some mycelium that successfully formed and is crawling up the side begging for a transfer -



Lesson of the story is this: peptone isn't commonly used for good reason. I'll be making new plates today on 0.5% LME. Simple Simon. They'll all go bacterial eventually so I'll knock up some plates today and get transfers for em' all.

*EDIT: turns out 7 of 8 are good, mistook early stage hyphae for bacterium on murky brown agar. Awesome!




Top: B-bar, bottom: TTBVI

It doesn't have to be comprehensive tuttled but if you're seeking help from others it really goes a long way. It doesn't have to be comprehensive, keep it digestible you know.

T-F you're an angel for the Pan India <3 mush love homies!


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





Edited by conz0r (02/28/26 09:38 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Mr Piggy]
    #29500780 -

Quote:
Preemptively sprinkle mosquito bits (the kind with bti) in all of the pots.  I collect house plants like they will fix my mental health and I have to drop bits in each one to prevent gnats.  It works on the gnats, but aside from a lil dopamine bump each time I get one, the plants haven’t fixed me yet.



What is mosquito bits?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: rotvelta] * 2
    #29500822 -

rotvelta said:
Quote:
Preemptively sprinkle mosquito bits (the kind with bti) in all of the pots.  I collect house plants like they will fix my mental health and I have to drop bits in each one to prevent gnats.  It works on the gnats, but aside from a lil dopamine bump each time I get one, the plants haven’t fixed me yet.



What is mosquito bits?


Bti. Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis. It kills the larvae of mosquitoes and fungus gnats. No larvae=no adults once their short lifespan expires. It comes as little bits that look like cat litter. Sprinkle it on soil around your plants, on top of your subs, or on standing water. Bti grows and kills the larvae. It’s harmless to humans and your plants and mushrooms.


--------------------
Method for Small Scale Casing Pasteurization

How much really fits in a 00 capsule?

Micro and Macro Mushroom Photography

Can you freeze mycelium?


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: RoscoeReturns]
    #29500832 -

RoscoeReturns said:
rotvelta said:
Quote:
Preemptively sprinkle mosquito bits (the kind with bti) in all of the pots.  I collect house plants like they will fix my mental health and I have to drop bits in each one to prevent gnats.  It works on the gnats, but aside from a lil dopamine bump each time I get one, the plants haven’t fixed me yet.



What is mosquito bits?


Bti. Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis. It kills the larvae of mosquitoes and fungus gnats. No larvae=no adults once their short lifespan expires. It comes as little bits that look like cat litter. Sprinkle it on soil around your plants, on top of your subs, or on standing water. Bti grows and kills the larvae. It’s harmless to humans and your plants and mushrooms.


That should definitely be more talked about! I'm snagging some on Amazon. Great measure if it's found, the surrounding ones can be treated to keep future flushes safe. So long as the contam riding them doesn't get em first.


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r] * 1
    #29500940 -

It's not quite harmless to humans. They produce a mild toxin that can give some folks intestinal issues like diarrhea.

It's probably fine sprinkled in a casing or substrate.  And it can potentially even survive pasteurization.

But I wouldn't put it in a spray bottle (again) and try to mist with it.  Since that makes it more likely that it will end up on the fruit bodies.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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