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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster] * 9
    #29492764 -

Second flush f0.





--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29492767 -

tree frog said:
Second flush f0.







That’s my carpet !😁

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29492954 -

fahtster said:
I swear I’ve posted this on the site but can’t for the life of me find it in the search function.  Maybe it was just discord and I only uploaded the pics here.. anyway, I came up with a way to “serial dilute” (spore stretching might be a better phrase) on the swab for doing grab and drags that I think you might find useful, TF.  Works great for both mono hunting and ms because you can pick where on the swab you want to pull the tuft from which will determine the quantity of spores with the gnd.  It’s a c/p from discord so I’ll quote it.

Quote:
put a drop of water on a swab tip and kind of “cut” into the very edge of a print to get a thin line of spores on the side of the swab..


Then I took another blank swab with a couple drops of water on it and pressed the two together where the spore line was vertically and rubbed up and down with the spored swab and while I did that I kept the blank swab still and spun the spored swab slowly (I don’t have pics of the process I only have two hands haha but I have after pics.)



You can see how there’s an even colored band of spores moving away from the original spore line that gets lighter and lighter until you can barely see anything in that last pic right before it reaches back to the spore line.  That’s where you’d take the tuft from.

The idea being that as the spores get more and more broken apart from the rubbing, they also get spread further and further apart.  So you have a higher chance of individual spores on the swab fibers. 

You could even not keep the blank swab in the same spot and turn it a quarter turn to a new blank spot half way through spinning the spored swab so you’re not transferring any new spores from the spot of the blank swab where it was being initially rubbed

You could also get a new second blank swab and stretch them even further by rubbing the new swab (and spinning it) against the spot of the original blank where the transferred spores were

Here’s a plate where I started with a thick line of spores and then used the tuft from just before I got back to the starting spore line.. so I couldn’t really see much of anything on the fibers



If you wanted to get more germination, you’d just pick an area closer to the starting point of the rub





A little side note… using mono hunting can be great for getting single di cultures from the jump.  I didn’t scope them because I don’t have one but I let these two colonies intercept each other



and after I saw what looked like a shift in myc types growing off both (I assume they were both monos), I took a transfer and grew it out and that’s what gave me the red spore weza culture.




Nice! I have tween20 on hand but never used it so far. But maybe if the water drops being used have a little bit of highly diluted tween20, it even further prevent clumping spores in the process on the swab and on the plate.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: shroboo] * 3
    #29493700 -

I thought this was amusing although I know you guys have noticed it before...

TTBVI doesn't absorb the dye whereas Bisporus does.

J



Also, here's my TTBVI jars (both innoc 1/28, shake at ~40%)
They are the same 2 jars, just spun in place.




Any issues? The left one is 100% and was faster than the right which has been slowed at 97-98% for 1-2 days. I hoped that the condensate was just due to how fast and hard it is moving.

Right jar first pic naked grains at top, right jar 2nd pic naked grains in mid right. and Right jar 3rd pic lightly colonized grains mid to bottom (that sector all colonized in the last 2 days or so and therefore is not as 'established' as the rest)

The plates themselves were all the way to t3, appeared clean, and were very prolific. Sister wedges were plated to t4 and also appeared clean.

Edited by Kunta Kente (02/22/26 06:48 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29494137 -

You fruiting these in a Martha tent?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dj_karma_magnet]
    #29494146 -

Dj_karma_magnet said:
You fruiting these in a Martha tent?



If you're asking me, I'm colonizing the substrate in my closet, mainly because I lazily haven't fully set up my tent yet (and I don't feel like having it run for 2-4 tubs).

But the plan was colonize in the closet with the standard 'shoebox with lid flipped for FAE' method, then transfer to the tent if they appear clean.

I'd like to spawn both at the same time, one into coir-manure at 70-30 and the other in supplemented coir.

This strain is much more aggressive than other pans but with a different appearance on plate / grain than other pans or cubes, so I'm a little unsure common characteristics or outliers. It's way ahead of the other pans I inoculated the same day / jar set, and only a few days behind the cubes.



Edit: It's some number of hours later after my post of my jars....I'm feeling better about both jars. The highly fluffy first jar has absorbed it's moisture with no metabolites, and the 2nd jar's naked grain is steadily being covered. Still happy for opinions though.


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

Edited by Kunta Kente (02/23/26 02:46 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kunta Kente] * 1
    #29495244 -

edit: yeah it's dumb nothing is new.

I guess working towards making some agar hoping for more success.

Edited by tultedspoon (02/23/26 11:21 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 3
    #29495259 -

:tldr:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 4
    #29495297 -

tultedspoon said:
I guess working towards making some agar hoping for more success.



Should be a fun chapter.

:camping:


--------------------
🌾💮🫘🥖

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: hellofresh] * 1
    #29495759 -

hellofresh said:
tultedspoon said:
I guess working towards making some agar hoping for more success.



Should be a fun chapter.

:camping:



I mean according to his last few accounts he tried agar with it will be a complete shit show :popcorn:


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 2
    #29495804 -

tultedspoon said:
edit: yeah it's dumb nothing is new.

I guess working towards making some agar hoping for more success.



You wanna try doing a single successful cube BRF cake before you do anything, and watch a documentary. You have zero respect for the fungi kingdom.:cigkiss:

I'd direct you to sources but it's been done 100 times and you just ignore it so - meh.

*It takes quite some doing to cause me to sour on a person - you've at least excelled in something here.


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r] * 2
    #29495828 -



--------------------
Tent for Tropical Species

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Fantastic Mr. Fox]
    #29495869 -

From my understanding the preferred grain for cyans is wbs. Is this correct? I’ve reviewed a video on Gordo’s patreon on how to prepare the grains, however I’ve seen lots of debate about if micropore tape is a good filter or not…would appreciate some community input, what size micropore tape would I use and what are my (possibly better) alternatives to micropore tape?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dj_karma_magnet] * 4
    #29495879 -

I've used popcorn, wheat and canary seeds all worked good.

I have done a lot of different lids, I have settled on thick SFD's glued with RTV.





Next best option in my opinion is the filter stickers.

Third would be unmodified, but how well it works seems to depend on lids, threads and if you have anything living small enough to crawl inside the jar in the grow space :uhoh:


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kloakk] * 1
    #29495932 -

full sized SFD's with mason jar lids that have a 1/4" hole drilled in the top will last a lifetime and have smooth operation (i got used to two-piece lids, but now a days the ones on scamazon are a bit wider than a wide mouth, so they get stuck to the mason jar bands, thus, making them operate like a one-piece lid) .  I have some of those thick plastic lids with glued on silicone-adhered SFD patches, but they can warp and are generally harder to unscrew smoothly, in my opinion, but are still among the best options.  Although the silicone seal can become compromised and hard to trust, needing upkeep and replacement, and more silicone, which is hard to keep a container of silicone in good working order without it going bad/drying out.

Edited by Generic (02/24/26 03:09 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic] * 1
    #29495966 -

Mine is the adhesive SFD. I used a step bit to clearly get the holes in the lids (plastic). I already had the stickers and they work well but I'm sure the silicone plus nonstick sfd works more long term than the adhesive on the stickers. Hard to say, both have distinct failure modes.


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kunta Kente] * 1
    #29495984 -

happy... ummm.... 18-year shroomiversary Kunta Kente.

for clarity, i'm talking about a full, wide mouth sized SFD under the lid with a hole, and a regular mason jar band being used.  The bands will eventually rust and catch, and need to be replaced/recycled, but with the amount of mason jars I use, I still have some A-grade bands saved for this purpose.  Lids will rust and occasionally get replaced when I want something fancier, but its usually not necessary.  All in all, no silicone gets used or wasted, but it does use more plastic/PTFE SFD material, so that's the trade off there.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kloakk]
    #29496075 -

Thank you, I have screw on metal lids but I’m gonna try this.

Just to be clear, 18 hour wbs soak, 1/4 hole and glue filter disc on lids, 3/4 full with wbs, attach lid, pressure cook at 15 psi for 90 mins, let cool off, remove, open lid in front of flow hood and add agar?


(Sorry for shitting up the thread just want to make sure I’m doing this right)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic]
    #29496114 -

Generic said:
happy... ummm.... 18-year shroomiversary Kunta Kente.

for clarity, i'm talking about a full, wide mouth sized SFD under the lid with a hole, and a regular mason jar band being used.  The bands will eventually rust and catch, and need to be replaced/recycled, but with the amount of mason jars I use, I still have some A-grade bands saved for this purpose.  Lids will rust and occasionally get replaced when I want something fancier, but its usually not necessary.  All in all, no silicone gets used or wasted, but it does use more plastic/PTFE SFD material, so that's the trade off there.



Haha thanks! I didn't even notice. It's funny remembering the in-vogue stuff back then for cult. A member just so happened to literally live on my street back then too.

Yes, I've had metal lids fitted with the sticker SFD as well as a SHIP, both little bitty jelly Ball jars, pint jars, and full quart wide mouths. And I've done the same with plastic lids (nonBall brand, those are $$$). Tbh the metal lids rusting quickly just started really annoying me. Once I run out of these sticker SFDs I'll likely do the RTV + SFD patch method.


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic]
    #29496131 -

Generic said:
Lids will rust and occasionally get replaced when I want something fancier, but its usually not necessary.



I have a love/hate relationship with metal lids and the setup you describe. Full SFD's above a drilled lid are still my top preference but I dislike the rust factor, they just start to feel "dirty" and crusty even if they still work just fine. And I don't like how they stain my SFD's, nor having to fiddle around unscrewing them when the threads a bit catchy when inoculating.

At some point they get retired to use as spacers in the pressure cooker etc

Edited by bongoman (02/24/26 05:31 PM)

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