angamshroom said:

Delicious BVI clusters.

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Awesome work!

ansr said:

0.5% LME (and 2% agar?) for Pans still recommended?

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bongoman said:

Can this be stored or does it risk going anaerobic if left in the vacuum sealed bag?

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Quote:

Quick question about storing pasteurised nutritive substrate.

Let's say I have amended coir substrate properly pasteurised in vacuum sealed bags — this substrate has been supplemented with worm castings and/or liquid fertilisers.

Can this be stored or does it risk going anaerobic if left in the vacuum sealed bag?

I assume it is optimal to use it as soon as it has cooled down? I think I read somewhere about Fahtster piercing the bags with a syringe several times once pasteurisation is complete and I assume that the substrate is then being promptly spawned to?

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Uzi said:

Anyone try cv+ for their pans here? Looking forward to trying soon and would like so see other people's take on the tek

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If you are referring to Mojave's liquid nutrients, he has a lot of photos of pans in that thread.

And faht is using it with some added worm castings.

I would suggest pasteurizing it though.

Anyway..

Pan cyan(?) laos




Clamps observed on the top two.  The other two are possibly monos or mold.  So I transferred those to a water agar plate to see what they do.

tree frog said:

Uzi said:

Anyone try cv+ for their pans here? Looking forward to trying soon and would like so see other people's take on the tek

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If you are referring to Mojave's liquid nutrients, he has a lot of photos of pans in that thread.

And faht is using it with some added worm castings.

I would suggest pasteurizing it though.

Anyway..

Pan cyan(?) laos




Clamps observed on the top two.  The other two are possibly monos or mold.  So I transferred those to a water agar plate to see what they do.

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Quote:

put a drop of water on a swab tip and kind of “cut” into the very edge of a print to get a thin line of spores on the side of the swab..


Then I took another blank swab with a couple drops of water on it and pressed the two together where the spore line was vertically and rubbed up and down with the spored swab and while I did that I kept the blank swab still and spun the spored swab slowly (I don’t have pics of the process I only have two hands haha but I have after pics.)



You can see how there’s an even colored band of spores moving away from the original spore line that gets lighter and lighter until you can barely see anything in that last pic right before it reaches back to the spore line.  That’s where you’d take the tuft from.

The idea being that as the spores get more and more broken apart from the rubbing, they also get spread further and further apart.  So you have a higher chance of individual spores on the swab fibers. 

You could even not keep the blank swab in the same spot and turn it a quarter turn to a new blank spot half way through spinning the spored swab so you’re not transferring any new spores from the spot of the blank swab where it was being initially rubbed

You could also get a new second blank swab and stretch them even further by rubbing the new swab (and spinning it) against the spot of the original blank where the transferred spores were

Here’s a plate where I started with a thick line of spores and then used the tuft from just before I got back to the starting spore line.. so I couldn’t really see much of anything on the fibers



If you wanted to get more germination, you’d just pick an area closer to the starting point of the rub

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A little side note… using mono hunting can be great for getting single di cultures from the jump.  I didn’t scope them because I don’t have one but I let these two colonies intercept each other



and after I saw what looked like a shift in myc types growing off both (I assume they were both monos), I took a transfer and grew it out and that’s what gave me the red spore weza culture.