AspectOfTheCreator said:

Where? I still have that plate. Its never been overtaken by anything.

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2to3 o'clock? Or is that a trick of the light?

AspectOfTheCreator said:

SupaThaRipper said:

There's a few things you could try out.

Your grain looks great, but try a different grain. For me, oats always fucked me, even when they looked great.

Try a few different sub pasteurizing methods other than what you've been doing.

Try sterilizing your sub.
Try beneficial bacteria.

Try leaving all of your grain underneath the sub. I've done this a few times and got some surprising results.

There's options to play around with. This isn't a one size fits all. What works for many, may not work for you.

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I use pennington brand wbs and bucket tek my coco bliss coir. Ive even tried it in brand new buckets and wear a mask and fresh nitrile gloves when i spawn. How exactly do you sterilize coir? I assume you hydrate to fc then pc but ouldnt it come out of the pc soaking wet?

I also pc my grain 2 hours at 18 psi. Am i pcing too much?

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LadysKnight said:

AspectOfTheCreator said:

Where? I still have that plate. Its never been overtaken by anything.

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2to3 o'clock? Or is that a trick of the light?

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Ill admit its hard to tell now but i find it very unlikely that with all the scrutiny im putting forth I would overlook that. Heres a pic of the corner of the table the pic was taken





Blemishes on the wood

Stipe-n Cap said:

Glad to have been of service. Listen to the TC crew, we usually know whats up. If you're really concerned about losing tubs I'd stop paying attention to mush cult conspiracy theories.

Ps: your control jar looks like a slimy mess. Just saying.

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callmehippie said:

fahtster said:

nektar61 said:

Anyone here who's been doing this some years ever use 2 of the little disc filter stickers on a jar, one on the outside of the jar lid, one on the inside? (I drill a 3/8 inch hole and the stickers are about an inch in diameter.)

I had a new one get pushed through in the PC today. I guess I hadn't siliconed it down well enough. A second filter would have made it fine. I tossed the grain on that one to the birds.

If you do one on top, one on bottom of jar lid, will it still get enough heat getting inside during PC, and FEA while colonizing?

thanks

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Do you not unscrew your lids a 1/4 turn?  I’ve never had a problem loosening lids a bit and tightening before removing

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Just curious. When you say "Do you not unscrew your lids a 1/4 turn?" 

Are you referring to unmodded no sfd?

Or are you just saying as well as the sfd loosen the lid?

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I’m talking about all lids so the steam can easily penetrate the jar

nektar61 said:

fahtster said:

nektar61 said:

Anyone here who's been doing this some years ever use 2 of the little disc filter stickers on a jar, one on the outside of the jar lid, one on the inside? (I drill a 3/8 inch hole and the stickers are about an inch in diameter.)

I had a new one get pushed through in the PC today. I guess I hadn't siliconed it down well enough. A second filter would have made it fine. I tossed the grain on that one to the birds.

If you do one on top, one on bottom of jar lid, will it still get enough heat getting inside during PC, and FEA while colonizing?

thanks

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Do you not unscrew your lids a 1/4 turn?  I’ve never had a problem loosening lids a bit and tightening before removing

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No, I tighten lids tight, using a rubber gripper thing, before the PC, and also after nocing. I had no problem since I started using these filter dots 3 years ago.

I tried non-tight lids before that, but had contam issues. I assume contam gets sucked in as the PC is cooling with the lid on and the stopcock on. But maybe not?

I open the PC in front of a flowhood.

I was dealing with other contam vectors back my first year, that I solved around end of first year here, so I might be able to loosen lids for PC.

You do that?

What do you use for air filters on the top of the lid?

It's possible that my thing still works fine and I just didn't file the burrs from drilling these new lids well enough and it cut the filter, but I can't see evidence of that, but the filter is toast on this one jar, so I tossed grain from that one.

Thank you.

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I use 3 layer tyvek lids so I have extra security around the jar threads as well as the rim so that’s not really something I worry about.  But I don’t think air get sucked into the pc if you let it cool naturally.

I also go an extra step and tape up the lid lock and blow plug a half hour after the lock drops (it’s a bit cooler to the touch and the tape sticks better when I wait a little).  Also put a jar over the toggle weight


All that’s more for peace of mind tho; not sure how effective it is.  I do let my pc sit for more than a day sometimes if I’m too busy to get to inoculating so it helps ease my mind when I have to do that

I just feel like tightening your lids is putting a lot of stress on a filter that’s suppose to be fine enough to filter out bacteria.  Also slows the process of steam reaching your grains or releasing non-steam from the jar (however it works)

As far as I know most growers here loosen their lids a bit and if it were a problem, we’d hear more about it.  If it were me, I’d at least do some tests now that you’ve figured out your other vectors because it could be negatively affecting your filter efficacy by stretching them out with forced steam.

SupaThaRipper said:

How is venting your PC not a conspiracy theory lol

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Quote:

Stipe-n Cap said:
Longer venting ensures trapped gasses are purged, replaced with steam and surfaces have ample time to evenly heat, uneven heating leads to "cold" spots, cold relative to working temperature.

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KlarnEvil9 said:

Definitely try to clone it! I would harvest it, give it a rinse or wipe to remove excess coir, put it into your SAB, then split it lengthwise by tearing with your hands. Then you can scrape out a bit of inner stipe tissue (with a scalpel or forceps) from each half to go onto its own agar plate!

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