LewDoja said:

Yes with most food coloring the mycelium will digest it, not sure about this brown you're  talking about .

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Glad to hear I'm not dealing with some kind of mutant. Here are some unrelated samples but it was the same process before clearing the agar.


The mycelium turned brown/orange as you can in the picture before going clear also pictured.

cronicr said:

MacNCheese said:

Likely will make a thread on this topic as the most recent one I found was over 5 years old, and it'd be cool to get into more detail regarding it; but has anyone here tried adding antibiotic agents like myxin/penicillin to their agar?
I recently had a very notable toque fruit that I cloned. The problem is that my sterile technique during this cloning process was less than stellar, and now I am struggling to save these genetics from bacterial contamination. Having done agar work on bacteria in non-sterile conditions, I was wondering if using the same methods used to prevent the growth of contaminant bacteria could be implemented in mycology, making the clean transfer of healthy mycelium much easier?
TLDR: Can you add antibiotics to your agar to reduce bacterial contamination so it is easier to clean up over transfers?

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There certainly are anti bacterial agar recipes for exactly this. Just make sure you go back to normal agar before grain as most recipes stop bacteria from growing but don't kill it , some people will also just use water agar with no notes to get a clean sample to work with

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And have also heard about trenching around  the sample (on agar) so the mycelium has to bridge the gap.

I've successfully used the hot pour (sandwich) before with and without nutes or low nutes.

I do these after pouring sleeves, so the agar has cooled off a lot.


@hydro
Some ppl Do shoe boxes filled to the brim (stipe-n cap).

LewDoja said:

cronicr said:

MacNCheese said:

@hydro
Some ppl Do shoe boxes filled to the brim (stipe-n cap).

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Do you know why they do this? Thanks for the reply

hydrohomie said:

Hey all, I have a broad question and I would love any answer, even if its just a resource to read or a writeup. Why do we use 2-3in as the standard for growing cubes, and why is this different for different species? What would happen if we used 4-5, or 1-2, for cubes?

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Radamanto said:

I don't know if this makeshift solution might work, but if you need high FAE and high humidity you could do it in a water tub like in this imo genius attempt at FC for lions mane.

Janus62 said:

Update.

I know this is really ghetto, but I ended up putting a bunch of small holes in the top of my tote with a computer fan sitting on them blowing inwards, and the lid loose and slightly off centre to give lots of FAE.  I started with piezo mist generators, but they were unreliable, so I bought a reptile fogger and connected the hose through a hole in the side of the tub (melted with my trusty soldering iron).

It now looks like the photos below.

I'm astonished I've got this far, but delighted.  I've grown more actives than I know what to do with and having got the growing bug, this looks like a way forward.

Thanks again all.

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I plan to do something similar but instead of the pc fans I would just fan with the lid 2-3 times a day and right after that run the piezoelectric mist makers to rise the humidity fast.

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Mr Piggy said:

hydrohomie said:

Hey all, I have a broad question and I would love any answer, even if its just a resource to read or a writeup. Why do we use 2-3in as the standard for growing cubes, and why is this different for different species? What would happen if we used 4-5, or 1-2, for cubes?

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2-3 inches of what and where?

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LewDoja said:

Mr Piggy said:

hydrohomie said:

Hey all, I have a broad question and I would love any answer, even if its just a resource to read or a writeup. Why do we use 2-3in as the standard for growing cubes, and why is this different for different species? What would happen if we used 4-5, or 1-2, for cubes?

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2-3 inches of what and where?

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Sub depth

With deeper, you need to add more spawn to the sub for it to colonize at a reasonable speed.1-1/1:2  vs 1:4+

Also if it's too deep it will have to be more loose to prevent putrification by insufficient gas exchange (anaerobic)

Diminishing returns once it's over a few inches.

The deeper subs can have bigger fruits from higher water Content. They can also maintain proper conditions over multiple flushes but when the time it takes and the cost of materials it starts to be less efficient use of everything (time/material/space) as well as higher probability of contamination and a harder blow from contamination.

Extra water holding capacity is the why.

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Phaethon said:

A

Amethyst_Scepter said:

Phaethon said:

Yep, tighten them up and also consider storing them in a freezer Ziploc and a cooler inside the fridge to avoid temperature fluctuations drying out (and/or freezing) your cultures.

Also check out the Cryovial Tek. You don't need to rely on refrigeration to preserve cultures.

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Thank you, I believe it was you who turned me onto cryovial tek a couple weeks back. I just got my vials so im going to do that as well! Whats the longest you've gone with a cryovial? I really appreciate you turning me onto that! I wanna get a shaving cream can like Jurassic park hahahaha

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Oops, sorry - I just always link that when anyone mentions slants because I find them a lot easier.

I haven't been using them all that long, so my longest stasis time to revival so far is about 6 months. But Mycoplex just posted pictures from a fruiting of a culture that was in stasis for two years: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28987527#28987527

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Amethyst_Scepter said:

LewDoja said:

Mr Piggy said:

hydrohomie said:

Hey all, I have a broad question and I would love any answer, even if its just a resource to read or a writeup. Why do we use 2-3in as the standard for growing cubes, and why is this different for different species? What would happen if we used 4-5, or 1-2, for cubes?

---

2-3 inches of what and where?

---

Sub depth

With deeper, you need to add more spawn to the sub for it to colonize at a reasonable speed.1-1/1:2  vs 1:4+

Also if it's too deep it will have to be more loose to prevent putrification by insufficient gas exchange (anaerobic)

Diminishing returns once it's over a few inches.

The deeper subs can have bigger fruits from higher water Content. They can also maintain proper conditions over multiple flushes but when the time it takes and the cost of materials it starts to be less efficient use of everything (time/material/space) as well as higher probability of contamination and a harder blow from contamination.

Extra water holding capacity is the why.

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Is 4 inches of sub/spawn mixture still the standard?

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Amethyst_Scepter said:

Does anyone see any issues with reusing the same foil over again to cover jar lids while pc'ing? Im looking to cut down on the amount of waste im producing

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Pineapples7 said:

Amethyst_Scepter said:

Does anyone see any issues with reusing the same foil over again to cover jar lids while pc'ing? Im looking to cut down on the amount of waste im producing

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If it's not got any holes around the edges then it's fine. I think the PF TEK mentioned re-using foil.

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ThurmanMurman said:

Where are we at with the use of foil? Ive recently ditched it, since I'm just getting water pooled up underneath it anyway. I think it was a TC that gave me a nod of approval on ditching it altogether, when dealing with modified lids with hydrophobic filter discs anyway.

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misterswisher said:

Are all those little dots knots? It’s been colonized for about a week waiting for pins.


Also you see the few discolored splotches? It looks like coir that got pushed up in person but on camera it looks like a contam. Anything to watch for to make sure it’s not?

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ThurmanMurman said:

Pineapples7 said:

Amethyst_Scepter said:

Does anyone see any issues with reusing the same foil over again to cover jar lids while pc'ing? Im looking to cut down on the amount of waste im producing

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If it's not got any holes around the edges then it's fine. I think the PF TEK mentioned re-using foil.

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Where are we at with the use of foil? Ive recently ditched it, since I'm just getting water pooled up underneath it anyway. I think it was a TC that gave me a nod of approval on ditching it altogether, when dealing with modified lids with hydrophobic filter discs anyway.

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