tryptkaloids said:

Is it just the surface or major sections underneath?

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Agar Wedge said:

Might make for some good cloning specimens

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Agar Wedge said:

Nah, I'm just talking about fruits in general. If they put out a good cluster or shroom, it's still an opportunity to move forward with improved genetics.

Though, on the topic, sometimes when a tub is battling contamination, it will put out an awesome flush before succumbing to the contamination. Definitely not producing what a healthy tub could over many flushes, but interesting how myselium knows how to push really hard when faced with adversity when it has the resources to do so.

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Agar Wedge said:

Have you found an advantage of medium sized mushroom over the largest of the bunch? Or do you find the speed to maturity of the given fruit to be of a better advantage in selection? Provided theres the option, rather than the ideal of both.

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Agar Wedge said:

What kind of tub design are you working with?

You are in good company friend, we've all had our fair share of contamination

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Assuming you asked me haha

Modified tubs. 6 holes each, 4 lowed close to surface and 2 up high. 60 Lt so pretty big. I do place a liner when sending to bulk. Tubs sit inside a tent, temp is 22-23c. Humidity inside the tent is around 75%-80% (mostly 75).
I have a LED light bulb on 12/12.
Substrate is CV and did the good ol recipe: for one brick of coir, 2.5 Lt of verm and 4.5 Lt of water.

Pasteurized doing bucket tek, wrapped the bucked with a blanket and had 3 hot water bottles tucked around the blanket.

bloodssonnew said:

Woot woot qq n q a 4000th page!!

So I got a question. For all you pan growers if you have thicker and thinner growth on a plate ( I transfered to center of plate n swiped down quickly and precisely and doing so I got strong growth in center and thinner potentially (cleaner?) growth)

Where would you transfer from if it was you guys or do both?



And on the topic of pans how far do you guys tend to transfer from spores till u consider it clean if it already looks uniform n good? T3?

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I saw your other post, and I'm not 100% convinced that what you have there is pan mycelium. Or perhaps it's really thick, which means it's not the morphology that is best.

If it were my plate, I'd do another transfer from here and see how it looks



Your plate is fully grown, which makes it hard to tell. It's always best to judge or ask for help while it's less than an inch in diameter.

This is a plate I'm working on. It's a T3.



It's not what I would consider perfect, but I am willing to call it good enough to see what happens when it's put to grain. That is ultimately a personal choice.

You definitely have two different cultures growing there. It could be two genetic sets of pans that don't mesh, or it could be a competitor. Some mold is white so it's not always obvious.

For me, my process goes like this:

MS -> Put 4 nice MS colonies onto a T0 plate -> Select for whispy morphology and put it into a Cabin Sequester T1 -> Select the fastest and most whispy growth that breaks out of the cabin T2

If I'm not seeing my culture moving in the right direction by T2, I'm starting over with spores. If it's close I'll go to t3 or T4. If I'm still seeing problems then the whole line gets tossed and I go back to spore.

This is another T3 plate that I'm not wasting any more time on



It looks good at a quick glance, but the mycelium is growing all disorganized. When shining a light through it and looking from below I'm not seeing any radial lines. It's also smaller than the other plate that was inoculated at the same time. It might be bacteria or mold. It might be good mycelium and I'm just picky, it doesn't really matter to me.

Pans can be tricky because it's not just even growth or smooth growth, or thin growth. There needs to be an organic logic to it rather than just a blob of cotton.

Faht's and Kloakks pics are perfect examples of that organic logic. I'll send T3/T4s that don't look as nice and still get fruits, but you want to get as close to that as you possibly can.

Anytime I end up with what I consider a perfect plate, it gets made into Liquid Innoculant. I don't even bother going agar to grain. That LI can be used to make way more jars and the extra week is worth the wait.

I do agree with Kloakk that there's no harm in sending the plate as-is. I learned what works for me by trying and accepting failure as it comes. Grain, manure, and coir are cheap. The knowledge of what different morphologies look like and how they behave is worth way more than a contammed jar or overlayed tub.

0_tonin said:

callmehippie said:

Actually if you want that thing to be quieter.. what we do is add more to our jiggler.

Tape a couple quarters on top or use a few magnets.

It'll make it wiggle a lot less. sometimes even barely to none. But it's still releasing a little bit. just enough every once in awhile to be okay.

This will also raise the PSI usually up to about 18 is still very safe to run on our PCS. 

Now I've never used a hawk big boy. I'm speaking about my Presto
.
but I imagine it's the same concept.


Anyways adding weight and actually stopping the jiggle can make your PC almost completely silent after the vent.


Only down side I see is you don't have a gauge to monitor how high your PSI is climbing.

funny cuz it's if you don't add extra weight.  the gauge doesn't matter. They can be inaccurate anyways.

The wiggle of the weight does show that you're at 15 psi.

So I'm not sure how you monitor your rising pressure after adding weight without a gauge. And that'll just depends on how accurate or calibrated the gauge is depending on how many times it's been used.


However I would say that from the experience of everybody else I've seen and myself.  if you just go with two quarters you should be fine and shouldn't be getting above 18 psi.

But thats just what i imagine. Please take it with a grain of salt.



Oh but definitely crank the heat as low as you can while still maintaining pressure. After event.

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great comment man, thanks

Yes my PC has a weight/jiggler

I have read about some people here adding a bit of extra weight to it to reach a higher PSI.

To be honest... the thought of altering how the PC was designed makes me a bit nervous. I have HUGE respect for PC man... call me a wuss but I am just too scared of something going wrong.

On my next run I will fully turn the heat down and see if that achieves a constant wiggle of the weight with not so many bursts/vents.

If someone using the same PC as me says they do the trick of adding extra weight to the jiggler and it works fine, then I would consider it.

But again, thanks for your suggestions!

---

Hey! Maybe knowing the pressure cookers have security valves might help with your fears

The security valve is there to prevent the PC from exploding. When the pressure is too high, it pops and releases the pressure. For it to explode the security valve must be hindered from maybe a bag from the insiede (that's why when cooking bags you should put a plate on top before closing, so the expanding bag won't hinder the security valve)

Muffa said:

0_tonin said:

callmehippie said:

Actually if you want that thing to be quieter.. what we do is add more to our jiggler.

Tape a couple quarters on top or use a few magnets.

It'll make it wiggle a lot less. sometimes even barely to none. But it's still releasing a little bit. just enough every once in awhile to be okay.

This will also raise the PSI usually up to about 18 is still very safe to run on our PCS. 

Now I've never used a hawk big boy. I'm speaking about my Presto
.
but I imagine it's the same concept.


Anyways adding weight and actually stopping the jiggle can make your PC almost completely silent after the vent.


Only down side I see is you don't have a gauge to monitor how high your PSI is climbing.

funny cuz it's if you don't add extra weight.  the gauge doesn't matter. They can be inaccurate anyways.

The wiggle of the weight does show that you're at 15 psi.

So I'm not sure how you monitor your rising pressure after adding weight without a gauge. And that'll just depends on how accurate or calibrated the gauge is depending on how many times it's been used.


However I would say that from the experience of everybody else I've seen and myself.  if you just go with two quarters you should be fine and shouldn't be getting above 18 psi.

But thats just what i imagine. Please take it with a grain of salt.



Oh but definitely crank the heat as low as you can while still maintaining pressure. After event.

---

great comment man, thanks

Yes my PC has a weight/jiggler

I have read about some people here adding a bit of extra weight to it to reach a higher PSI.

To be honest... the thought of altering how the PC was designed makes me a bit nervous. I have HUGE respect for PC man... call me a wuss but I am just too scared of something going wrong.

On my next run I will fully turn the heat down and see if that achieves a constant wiggle of the weight with not so many bursts/vents.

If someone using the same PC as me says they do the trick of adding extra weight to the jiggler and it works fine, then I would consider it.

But again, thanks for your suggestions!

---

Hey! Maybe knowing the pressure cookers have security valves might help with your fears

The security valve is there to prevent the PC from exploding. When the pressure is too high, it pops and releases the pressure. For it to explode the security valve must be hindered from maybe a bag from the insiede (that's why when cooking bags you should put a plate on top before closing, so the expanding bag won't hinder the security valve)

---

Huskies said:

^ good tubs, but yeah, on the dry side.

You want droplets throughout, big or small, better small I think (?). I just grabbed myself a pump sprayer at the dollar store and that seems to be a great option.



Ideally, whole thing is covered in droplets, unmistakenly. If you need a flashlight, I'd give it a good misting.

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