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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29499662 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Kloakk said:
My easiest substrate that gave good results was 70/30, Coir/Cow Manure Compost and done.
The one I use is:

Substrate recipe:
- 35% Coir
- 30% Cow Manure Compost
- 30% Straw
- 5% Rice Hulls



Are you hydrating your straw before pasteurization?

I've only tried doing straw once and it contammed in the storage bucket. Since I was still learning to pasteurize I decided to cut it out for the time being while I got more experience.

My theory was that the straw didn't hydrate enough from just over field capacity coir/manure so my slow cooker didn't transfer enough heat to it.

I've since switched to composted manure tea so it's less of a concern, but I still haven't tried it.


as people already said, pasteurization in pillow case works fine too and that one of benefits, it let hydrate and makes sure all substrate heated up evenly without leaving any under heated spots

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29499664 -

* I Haven't got my own dialed in - bloody autocorrect! Thanks for the responses gonna roll a spliff and go through now.

:goodday: You're all sweethearts for the feedback xXxX


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Fantastic Mr. Fox]
    #29499668 -

I really appreciate the suggestion! I would definitely do something like that if I was doing straw only, or doing a lot in bulk.

Ideally, I'd like a way to incorporate straw into my current process rather than follow a new one.

It's probably as simple as throwing a few handfuls of chopped straw into my manure tea prior to pasteurization. That's at least the first thing I'd try because it's simple and only risks a brick of coir. As long as the bits floating at the top under the lid get to temp I don't see why it wouldn't work.


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29499678 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Are you hydrating your straw before pasteurization?

I've only tried doing straw once and it contammed in the storage bucket. Since I was still learning to pasteurize I decided to cut it out for the time being while I got more experience.

My theory was that the straw didn't hydrate enough from just over field capacity coir/manure so my slow cooker didn't transfer enough heat to it.

I've since switched to composted manure tea so it's less of a concern, but I still haven't tried it.



When I make substrate I start with straw and rice hulls. Just measure out what I need, put it in a bucket and pour boiling water over it until everything is covered. When I'm done with the rest of the substrate I dump the straw and rice hulls in a colander and squeeze out excess water then mix with the rest of the substrate.


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Mr Piggy]
    #29499711 -

Mr Piggy said:
Produce a picture of this setup please.



:popcorn:

In fact tuttled I've gone through your body of stuff on here, to see how best to try and help get you some success but the deeper i got the clearer it became that you don't understand the process of what it is you're attempting - I'm not saying you're oblivious but you've not internalised the basic A-Z of a single tek.

Your contamination problems sound like an environmental thing. Maybe check how sterile you're being - don't tell me, just check.

I don't get why you're going out and collecting horse manure, that's absurd if I'm honest when T-F and Fahster - the people you consistently cite and request clarification from - have both demonstrated coir is the most simple, cheap, and  sterile way to grow P. Cyan mushrooms.

Our hero T-F did an excellent bit I was pointed towards early on, when I was having HPOO daydreams - https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/29203412

"Manure is shitty" - it's a brilliant bit of source material.

I'm not tryna dog you, I'm just not wearing kid gloves for you. You're not demonstrating any progress and you're out here asking for input so here it is - Stop trying to grow off scavenged manure and just use straight coir with castings if you're that bad off.

*EDIT TO PREVENT THREAD JAMMIN'
:happyclaps:
T-F said it perfectly below. Don't feel ganged-up on that's not what this is at all. All is fair and without insult - especially given time has been taken to help you.


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





Edited by conz0r (02/27/26 10:32 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29499751 -

The mycelium needs to breach the surface of the casing so that aerial hyphae turn into knots.  If the casing is applied very thin, like most folks run cyans, it's already breached and the casing primarily serves to keep the microclimate in the correct humidity range.

If the casing is applied a bit thicker, and you don't let it colonize, you can't count on it to keep the surface conditions humid.  Because there is no surface, just dry or wet casing on top of a colony going wtf.

Thin casing should look like this.



Same colony 24 hours later.


Thick casing that was given some time to colonize looks like this.



24 hours later.


Your hydrometer doesn't matter.  These are at 100% rH all day according to the meter.  What matters is surface conditions.  Aerial hyphae or surface mycelium visible.  And glistening casing.

But as Piggy said.  You need to start posting pictures instead of walls of text if you want help.  A picture is worth more which is why all my teks are essentially pictorials.

Seriously, I'm going to stop answering walls of texts from you.  I know you have a camera and uploading pictures to the site is easy and private.  And I'm not going to keep putting effort in if you can't make all our lives easier by snapping a photo.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (02/27/26 10:29 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29499768 -

@TF: I have a question about colonizing casing. Do you restrict air flow again after casing?

I'm using plastic lunch trays with some needle holes poked in the lids. So if I understand what you're saying and if you were using a similar container, you'd put the lid back on for a day or two to let the co2 build up a bit again rather than putting it in the FC?


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29499774 -

It depends on how thick of a casing I use.

Bisporus I cover the substrate completely, no mycelium visible underneath.  It's not exactly 'thick' but it's not as thin as cyans.

They spent 24 hours in the fruiting chamber with a flipped blue plastic lid over the top.  And the third photo above was taken after I removed the lid.  And the fourth photo 24 hours with exposure to the conditions in the chamber.



Edit:  And 24 hours isn't prescriptive.  The aerial hyphae in this photo I'm reposting were the indicator, not Cronos and his counted time.



--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (02/27/26 10:34 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29499785 -

Oh and you don't have to put them in the fruiting chamber.  I'm paranoid about gnats atm since I moved everything onto the same level of the house my partner has all her plants.

I used to do this on a shelf instead.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29499835 -

Do you guys do anything special to keep your JCM water cleaner for longer? I'm cleaning mine between runs, but it's a PITA.

I'm thinking of adding some h202 to the water, but I'm not sure if its a waste of money. Amazon sells as high as 12%. I'm familiar with working with corrosive chemicals from my work so I'm not worried about safety. I can borrow whatever I need from work.

Anyone tried this?


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29499849 -

Switching to reverse osmosis water is what ultimately did the trick for me.  Distilled would also work.

This is an affordable filter, if you don't want to run to the grocery store for distilled.

https://a.co/d/0fJpt81W


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29499857 -

Lots of options, but these have been great for me. I got them for my humidifiers but they work well in water tubs and I would assume a JCM. At 3 drops per two quarts of water, the bottle will do a whole lot of tubs.


--------------------
Stoned Gummys | BRF Pucks | Primo Reusable Plates | Easy LI 4 Preserv & Propo
"Psychedelics are powerful substances. Nothing that powerful is completely safe... and nothing completely safe is that powerful!" - Abigail Calder at ALPS 2023
Don't Panic

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 2
    #29499869 -

tree frog said:
Seriously, I'm going to stop answering walls of texts from you.  I know you have a camera and uploading pictures to the site is easy and private.  And I'm not going to keep putting effort in if you can't make all our lives easier by snapping a photo.




Proud of you TreeFrog, it's about time. 

you give so much of yourself away, that even I hesitate to ask more of you.  We want you here long-term and to not get burned out. 

I swear you've been rediculously patient with them.  It makes more sense when it's to give in a way that everyone can benefit from.  Like earlier when you explained genetics to me, some of that went over my head but I learned some for sure, and I assume others did.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29499916 -

tree frog said:
It depends on how thick of a casing I use.

Bisporus I cover the substrate completely, no mycelium visible underneath.  It's not exactly 'thick' but it's not as thin as cyans.




How have you noticed bisporus vs the various cyans going around, on agar, grain, or bulk. As in comparing speed

Like, in speed if 10/10 is cubes, then on agar Bisp is a 5/10, cyan (bunnell) is 6-7/10, and cyan TTBVI is 9/10. On grain (oats or rye) bisp is like a 2-3/10, bunnell is 5-6/10, and TTBVI is 9/10.

I still haven't quantified these to bulk or nailed down which bulk I want yet. Weird to me that it's just a strain and TTBVI behaves almost like a different species in all stages before fruiting...or at least a 'highly optimized or forgiving' variant.




As an update these 2nd batch grain jars are a lost cause, nothing ever grew out in like 9 of them (but 3 did do just fine). I simply didn't use enough agar specimen I think.


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic] * 4
    #29499927 -

Generic said:
tree frog said:
Seriously, I'm going to stop answering walls of texts from you.  I know you have a camera and uploading pictures to the site is easy and private.  And I'm not going to keep putting effort in if you can't make all our lives easier by snapping a photo.




Proud of you TreeFrog, it's about time. 

you give so much of yourself away, that even I hesitate to ask more of you.  We want you here long-term and to not get burned out. 

I swear you've been rediculously patient with them.  It makes more sense when it's to give in a way that everyone can benefit from.  Like earlier when you explained genetics to me, some of that went over my head but I learned some for sure, and I assume others did.



I do learn when I teach.  It helps me to understand my own thought processes better.  But yeah, I'm going to focus more on a project I want to do this next year than teaching.  I'm planning to write a paper on grass loving pans and grass/microbes.  Will take a lot of my attention and I'm sure I'll be sharing as I go along.

But there's tons of available teks with great instructions, and a community that is happy to help folks assuming those folks are willing to put in some effort on their end.  Like posting pictures when asked :crankey:


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29499952 -

tree frog said:
Generic said:
tree frog said:
Seriously, I'm going to stop answering walls of texts from you.  I know you have a camera and uploading pictures to the site is easy and private.  And I'm not going to keep putting effort in if you can't make all our lives easier by snapping a photo.




Proud of you TreeFrog, it's about time. 

you give so much of yourself away, that even I hesitate to ask more of you.  We want you here long-term and to not get burned out. 

I swear you've been rediculously patient with them.  It makes more sense when it's to give in a way that everyone can benefit from.  Like earlier when you explained genetics to me, some of that went over my head but I learned some for sure, and I assume others did.



I do learn when I teach.  It helps me to understand my own thought processes better.  But yeah, I'm going to focus more on a project I want to do this next year than teaching.  I'm planning to write a paper on grass loving pans and grass/microbes.  Will take a lot of my attention and I'm sure I'll be sharing as I go along.

But there's tons of available teks with great instructions, and a community that is happy to help folks assuming those folks are willing to put in some effort on their end.  Like posting pictures when asked :crankey:



word!


--------------------
the observer is the observed
            j. krishnamurti


>The Hitchhiker‘s Guide to the Shroomery<

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kunta Kente]
    #29499959 -

Kunta Kente said:
How have you noticed bisporus vs the various cyans going around, on agar, grain, or bulk. As in comparing speed

Like, in speed if 10/10 is cubes, then on agar Bisp is a 5/10, cyan (bunnell) is 6-7/10, and cyan TTBVI is 9/10. On grain (oats or rye) bisp is like a 2-3/10, bunnell is 5-6/10, and TTBVI is 9/10.




On appropriate media I find mycelium speed on agar to be the same across everything.  But I haven't grown a cube in years so who knows on that end.

Same with grains.  No difference in speed.

So, when I say slow I mean pin time.  Cyans if the mycelium selection was good, environmental conditions are good as far as heat and humidity, and the casing is managed well, they generally knot in under a week and mature in a few days.  Some will knot in a few days even.

Bisporus, chlorocystis, and SAO2 (beach pan/tea tree/mystery sa) are a bit slower to pin (a week to two weeks if conditions are good) but only a bit slower to mature.  But all are faster than cubes by a lot.

IND01 I'm still learning but seems to be in the middle as far how quickly it pins.  But it matures very slowly compared to others.  Cube speed on that end, maybe a bit slower even.  But again it's early days with it so I'm still learning what it likes.

Was discussing this image with a friend.

It shows a distinct split between cyans and bisporus that happened quite awhile ago.  I think most of the two spored varieties are much more closely related to bisporus than cyans.  And that cambos and cyans are closely enough related that calling them different species is debatable.  So everything I said about cyans applies to cambos too.



Here's the split.  And one of these cyanescens on the bottom is a 'cambo' according to Pollock.  Cambos and cyans are close enough to breed too.  Kinda splitting hairs giving them different names.



--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29499977 -

tree frog said:
It depends on how thick of a casing I use.

Bisporus I cover the substrate completely, no mycelium visible underneath.  It's not exactly 'thick' but it's not as thin as cyans.

They spent 24 hours in the fruiting chamber with a flipped blue plastic lid over the top.  And the third photo above was taken after I removed the lid.  And the fourth photo 24 hours with exposure to the conditions in the chamber.



Edit:  And 24 hours isn't prescriptive.  The aerial hyphae in this photo I'm reposting were the indicator, not Cronos and his counted time.





Thanks again you wonderful person, Monday the eungai and Komodo x TTBVI boxes will want casing. Since it's 1:1 grain but might be leaning towards grain I'll do a medium casing and let them colonise it for 48hrs before I spray em'.

This answered a question I didn't know I had yet.


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29499987 -

tree frog said:
Oh and you don't have to put them in the fruiting chamber.  I'm paranoid about gnats atm since I moved everything onto the same level of the house my partner has all her plants.

I used to do this on a shelf instead.




Preemptively sprinkle mosquito bits (the kind with bti) in all of the pots.  I collect house plants like they will fix my mental health and I have to drop bits in each one to prevent gnats.  It works on the gnats, but aside from a lil dopamine bump each time I get one, the plants haven’t fixed me yet.


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Mr Piggy] * 1
    #29499996 -

We do.  A few still found their way into my mushroom tent last spring.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Shop: Original Sensible Seeds Bulk Cannabis Seeds   Myyco.com Pan Cyan Liquid Culture For Sale   North Spore Bulk Substrate   MagicBag.co Certified Organic All-In-One Grow Bags   Sporeworks.EU Spores for European Microscopy   Mushroom-Hut Substrate Mix


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