FounderZ said:

Here's where I cook. Get ready!

The USDA's 10 minute venting guideline on a pressure cooker wasn't about food safety being impossible before that time... It was a standard set to ensure predictable sterilization every time. By recommending 10 minutes, they made sure that anyone using the cooker under normal conditions would reliably reach the right temperature and pressure to kill bacteria, while also protecting themselves from liability if someone followed the instructions exactly and still had issues. It's about creating a safe, consistent procedure, not a magic threshold.

The question initially was is it needed, I debunked it. Don't go recommending this to novices cause they may screw up pressure cooking the first few times. You advanced users go ahead and try it tell me different. I don't contaminate.

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Quote:

Two test have been conducted so far one with a presto 23q and one with an AA 25x sterilizer.

A nearly new presto 23q pressure cooker was used for this test

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FounderZ said:

The Ferryman said:

jesus christ read the first couple of lines

Quote:

Two test have been conducted so far one with a presto 23q and one with an AA 25x sterilizer.

A nearly new presto 23q pressure cooker was used for this test

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The first test showed a 15 degree difference with an unvented presto. It is a FACT that an unvented pressure cooker will be less effective at sterilisation.

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Then entertain me with the last line... Genius.

"The toggle holds in air better than the jiggle weight on the presto. so the presto sort of vents itself during the run, the toggle on the AA really trapped the air in it seems." Not my words. I'm a genius I know, sorry it took you a minute. Follow my video I posted.

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Rukus said:

From my latest grow I've got a 64oz mason jar just about full of cracker dry mushrooms. How many desiccant pouches should I put in there for good long term storage?

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Quote:

FounderZ said: How bad can it be if you don't contaminate?

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auroradawn said:

Hii, new first timer. Used a GT grow kit for the first time, that now has its first pin. It's one of those fully pre colonized bricks that you rehydrate and then sit in a bag.

Vendor instructions say to leave the bag open for airflow when I have pins - is this actually necessary? I unfortunately have fungus gnats in my apartment. I have some super fine mesh I can put over it if it is necessary; but I also WFH and can manually refresh the air frequently if that's fine too.

Thanks! (And yes I'm going to do this hobby properly next time 😊)

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Welcome Auroradawn! Thanks for stopping by leaving a bag open is a quick way to dry out the sub. Instead, open it once or twice a day for air exchange. You can also close it up and use a needle to poke holes a few inches above the sub for air exchange. Half a dozen-dozen will do. Though with gnats this may not be ideal. Congrats on the pins! Please upload some pictures when you get the chance. Would love to take a look and make sure everything looks good if you'd like.

FounderZ said:

Okay so if the presto is venting passively during the run to get air out, what differs a 60-120minute cook and skipping that 10 minute vent? I'd say by 120 minutes you're good with that passive venting and if you learned to dial back and trial you find maybe 60 works. How bad can it be if you don't contaminate?

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Quote:

UCCE Master Food Preserver Program | mfp.ucanr.edu

1. Make sure the pressure canner is working
properly before preparing food. Clean lid
gaskets and other parts according to the
manufacturer’s directions; make sure all
vent pipes are clear and contain no trapped
material or mineral deposits. Center the
canner over the burner. The burner and
range must be level. Your pressure canner
can be damaged if the burner puts out too
much heat. In general, do not use on an
outdoor LP gas burner or gas range burner
over 12,000 BTU’s. Check your manufacturer’s directions for more information
about appropriate burners.
Put the rack and hot water into the canner.
If the amount of water is not specified
with a given food, use enough water so it
is 2 to 3 inches high in the canner. Longer
processes required more water. Some specific products (for example, smoked fish)
require that you start with even more water
in the canner. Always follow the directions
with USDA processes for specific foods if
they require more water be added to the
canner.
For hot packed foods, you can bring the
water to 180°F ahead of time, but be
careful not to boil the water or heat it long
enough for the depth to decrease. For raw
packed foods, the water should only be
brought to 140°F.
2. Place filled jars, fitted with lids and ring
bands, on the jar rack in the canner, using
a jar lifter. When moving jars with a jar
lifter, make sure the jar lifter is securely
positioned below the neck of the jar (below
the ring band of the lid). Keep the jar
upright at all times. Tilting the jar could
cause food to spill into the sealing area of
the lid.
3. Fasten the canner lid securely. Leave
the weight off the vent pipe or open the
petcock.
4. Turn the heat setting to its highest
position. Heat until the water boils and
steam flows freely in a funnel-shape from
the open vent pipe or petcock. While
maintaining the high heat setting, let the
steam flow (exhaust) continuously for 10
minutes.
5. After this venting, or exhausting, of the
canner, place the counterweight or weighted gauge on the vent pipe, or close the
petcock. The canner will pressurize during
the next 3 to 10 minutes.
6. Start timing the process when the pressure
reading on the dial gauge indicates that the
recommended pressure has been reached,
or, for canners without dial gauges, when
the weighted gauge begins to jiggle or rock
as the manufacturer describes.
7. Regulate the heat under the canner to
maintain a steady pressure at, or slightly
above, the correct gauge pressure. One
type of weighted gauge should jiggle a
certain number of times per minute, while
another type should rock slowly throughout the process—check the manufacturer’s
directions.

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Agar Wedge said:

auroradawn said:

Hii, new first timer. Used a GT grow kit for the first time, that now has its first pin. It's one of those fully pre colonized bricks that you rehydrate and then sit in a bag.

Vendor instructions say to leave the bag open for airflow when I have pins - is this actually necessary? I unfortunately have fungus gnats in my apartment. I have some super fine mesh I can put over it if it is necessary; but I also WFH and can manually refresh the air frequently if that's fine too.

Thanks! (And yes I'm going to do this hobby properly next time 😊)

---

Welcome Auroradawn! Thanks for stopping by leaving a bag open is a quick way to dry out the sub. Instead, open it once or twice a day for air exchange. You can also close it up and use a needle to poke holes a few inches above the sub for air exchange. Half a dozen-dozen will do. Though with gnats this may not be ideal. Congrats on the pins! Please upload some pictures when you get the chance. Would love to take a look and make sure everything looks good if you'd like.

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Thank you! And that makes sense. Here are some photos (top/side/bottom). Note that some vermiculite from the top spilled into the bottom of the bag/box when rehydrating. Supposed to be GTs:

FounderZ said:

The Ferryman said:

jesus christ read the first couple of lines

Quote:

Two test have been conducted so far one with a presto 23q and one with an AA 25x sterilizer.

A nearly new presto 23q pressure cooker was used for this test

---

The first test showed a 15 degree difference with an unvented presto. It is a FACT that an unvented pressure cooker will be less effective at sterilisation.

---

Then entertain me with the last line... Genius.

"The toggle holds in air better than the jiggle weight on the presto. so the presto sort of vents itself during the run, the toggle on the AA really trapped the air in it seems." Not my words. I'm a genius I know, sorry it took you a minute. Follow my video I posted.

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