Jrey16 said:

Thanks

Yea i know, but im just too used to CVG lol

I guess i'll try straight coco coir once i run out of  verm and gypsum. Don't know the coco coir to water ratio though. I've seen multiple people say different things. I make my sub on the wetter side.

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el53 said:

Personally I reserve a quart jar in the refrigerator when I make mine. A lot depends on the climate where you live. We are just out of Summer where I am and honest to God summer is just awful for trichoderma spores everywhere here. I know people say it can't grow in cor but it can. There's a low nutrition substrate but it is not without any nutrition and it's the pH that usually keeps trich from growing. When we leave in water we lower the pH taking our cor the happy place for that particular pathogen. Personally I stick extra cor into a silicone bag and PC for 2-3 hours before use during the summer. A lot of what we say is dependent on the climate where you've done these things so there's no one solution answer.

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el53 said:

I just buy whatever's on sale at Walmart. I have no brand loyalty but I do check ingredients and there's none added. But I do live in a different climate than you do were it is everywhere in the summer. Every commercial grower within 50 miles had outbreaks this summer. They treated them with ph adjustment and hydrogen peroxide.

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el53 said:

Xegarus said:

Sorry to sound dumb, but besides turning on the AC and hoping to reduce the ambient temp(which is expensive as hell for me in the UK), is there any "easy" or reliable way to get the tempreture down inside the tub without moving the tub elsewhere?

Or do you think it mioght be best for me to try again in a month or two when temps are lower?

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The Old reliable is to put the tub in the refrigerator for a few hours or even overnight. It's one of those things that can't hurt and I've seen it make the pins pop but I have no scientific testing to prove that it does work.

Add it to add one other thing- since you have been relying on moisture to keep things pushing along check the bottom of your tub. If you have any standing water drain it off by tilting the tub or perhaps dabbing it with a tissue or paper towel. The bottom of the tub should look moist. If it does look dry might be time to consider bottom watering by simply pouring a couple of ounces of water down the side of the tub.

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Quote:

BeefSupremeJr said:[/]
hm.  interesting.  i think they sell eco at walmart.  if you have the scratch you might try a brick hof coco bliss.  the holy grail of coir imho.  canna people are mostly godless heathens.

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Xegarus said:

Hey wondering if anyone could advise me on.
Got a tub that isnt fruiting in over 2 weeks (see my history), Im gonna just LITFA for now and start a new batch or two and wanted to know if humiodty and temp could have been the issue?

My room goes from about 20C at its coldest in the night upto about during the day 27C


I havent had anything to read the inside of my tub but id imagine the temps higher inside.

Would that temp range be too high and a possible cause for my tubs failure?
Is there a ideal i should be aiming for inside the tub?
I've read that FAE and water beading and evaporation matters more than a specific temp number or humidity number but if my temps too high to begin with then im sure thats not great either.

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cronicr said:

Xegarus said:

Hey wondering if anyone could advise me on.
Got a tub that isnt fruiting in over 2 weeks (see my history), Im gonna just LITFA for now and start a new batch or two and wanted to know if humiodty and temp could have been the issue?

My room goes from about 20C at its coldest in the night upto about during the day 27C


I havent had anything to read the inside of my tub but id imagine the temps higher inside.

Would that temp range be too high and a possible cause for my tubs failure?
Is there a ideal i should be aiming for inside the tub?
I've read that FAE and water beading and evaporation matters more than a specific temp number or humidity number but if my temps too high to begin with then im sure thats not great either.

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If you're growing cubes or any tropical species those temps are perfectly fine

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Quote:

callmehippie said:Ps. I sounded like a robot when I took out all my personality from this post to make it short and to the point.. Lol.  Its still long.

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*servos whirling*

el53 said:

There s a goldielocks zone for cultivated cubes because when we grow them intentionally inside we have eliminated any number of natural systems that help them with stand heat one of then being the coolness of the earth where the body grows well cushioned from tropical heat. Even in Florida go a foot down and the soil s cool but your mycelium/tree in a tub doesn't have that benefit. I have traipsed the creek and river beds all over FL and I have never even heard of anyone finding 2-3 day old mushrooms in the sunlight. Usually in direct sunlight they are rotting by noon. In the shade of cyprus and banyon trees or a high grass meadow? Sure. The bacteria and bugs will get them first in hours of full heat exposure.

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cronicr said:

el53 said:

There s a goldielocks zone for cultivated cubes because when we grow them intentionally inside we have eliminated any number of natural systems that help them with stand heat one of then being the coolness of the earth where the body grows well cushioned from tropical heat. Even in Florida go a foot down and the soil s cool but your mycelium/tree in a tub doesn't have that benefit. I have traipsed the creek and river beds all over FL and I have never even heard of anyone finding 2-3 day old mushrooms in the sunlight. Usually in direct sunlight they are rotting by noon. In the shade of cyprus and banyon trees or a high grass meadow? Sure. The bacteria and bugs will get them first in hours of full heat exposure.

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Except cows aren't digging holes a foot deep to take a shit, sunlight with no humidity will dry them but in a tub if it's warm and humid it's not the cause of a tub not pinning let's be real here

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el53 said:

cronicr said:

el53 said:

There s a goldielocks zone for cultivated cubes because when we grow them intentionally inside we have eliminated any number of natural systems that help them with stand heat one of then being the coolness of the earth where the body grows well cushioned from tropical heat. Even in Florida go a foot down and the soil s cool but your mycelium/tree in a tub doesn't have that benefit. I have traipsed the creek and river beds all over FL and I have never even heard of anyone finding 2-3 day old mushrooms in the sunlight. Usually in direct sunlight they are rotting by noon. In the shade of cyprus and banyon trees or a high grass meadow? Sure. The bacteria and bugs will get them first in hours of full heat exposure.

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Except cows aren't digging holes a foot deep to take a shit, sunlight with no humidity will dry them but in a tub if it's warm and humid it's not the cause of a tub not pinning let's be real here

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Cows are shatting a nice wet pile of compost that triggers pins even better than rain. The babies that grow in direct sunlight don't last a day and there are few none humid days in the tropics. If you think there is no relationship between the mycelium growth and the fruit I would heartily disagree but what we are doing is very close to what would happen if the cows did dig down to the mycelium to take that poo but at least that poo has nutrition. *FL average 74% humidity.

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