AZ Starman2112 said:

Thanks! I did read anywhere from 5000k to 6500k is optimal. Unfortunately Barrina doesn't make a 6000k, but I was thinking of combining the Daylight 5000k and the pinkish white on each shelf.  I'll wait for more input though!

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BlakoDako said:

Just curious. Is this something anybody would consider clone worthy? I only ask because alot of the fruits have been slightly smaller. And I'd like bigger fruits like this. Although only slightly bigger. I'd like to be in this size range


I'd say it's 4 1/2" tall

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Sillysighbean said:

Just poured 10 plates at appx 49c and wrapped with grafting tape after cooling for one hour. Is this side condensation normal? The tops are clear.

I initially had top condensation on the top four plates of my stack. I cleared them up with the hot mug trick but I did it after wrapping them which caused the water to recondensate on the agar surface instead. I assume I should have done that before wrapping? The agar seems to have absorbed the extra water anyway.

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Sillysighbean said:

Just poured 10 plates at appx 49c and wrapped with grafting tape after cooling for one hour. Is this side condensation normal? The tops are clear.

I initially had top condensation on the top four plates of my stack. I cleared them up with the hot mug trick but I did it after wrapping them which caused the water to recondensate on the agar surface instead. I assume I should have done that before wrapping? The agar seems to have absorbed the extra water anyway.

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tryptkaloids said:

5000 daylight is great. 6000 would be better iirc

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Scemilope said:

AZ Starman2112 said:

Thanks! I did read anywhere from 5000k to 6500k is optimal. Unfortunately Barrina doesn't make a 6000k, but I was thinking of combining the Daylight 5000k and the pinkish white on each shelf.  I'll wait for more input though!

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I have Barrina 6500k and 5000k. I used the 6500k first then later I changed to 5000k. I've seen no difference in performance or growth habits, I prefer the 5000k for a aesthetic reasons. But any combination you like will work just fine.

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LyleChipperson said:

Sillysighbean said:

Just poured 10 plates at appx 49c and wrapped with grafting tape after cooling for one hour. Is this side condensation normal? The tops are clear.

I initially had top condensation on the top four plates of my stack. I cleared them up with the hot mug trick but I did it after wrapping them which caused the water to recondensate on the agar surface instead. I assume I should have done that before wrapping? The agar seems to have absorbed the extra water anyway.

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Yes, you should do the hot mug thing with unwrapped plates.
I usually pour while the agar is hotter and that creates a lot of condensation, but I leave my plates for 2-3 days stacked and unwrapped in the SAB and that takes care of it. I put a plastic cup with water or an old plate over the topmost plate that gets the most condensation.

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Axman said:

Big Jon said:

Has anyone experienced slow pinning with Jack Frost? Placed my monotub in fruiting conditions 9 days ago and no sign of pins. The tub looks pretty good IMO but the water droplets are kinda large, I heard that could be a sign of contam but maybe I’m just overthinking it and there’s no pooling at all so 🤷‍♂️

Also, I am trying to post a pic of it but the Shroomery keeps saying that I ran out of space…but I haven’t uploaded anything so if anyone can help that would be my second question.

Thanks!

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We don't set our tubs up between conditions. There is just Fruiting Conditions. With that being said, when did you spawn to bulk? JF is a PE cross so longer time to get to fruits is not abnormal.

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Axman said:

@big Jon

Just leave it and let it ride, I've had PE shoeboxes that didn't fruit for 3 months, no contamination, just slow to fruit.

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Axman said:

If could be stalling from bacteria, but if you have the space for the tub I would let it run out until it either contaminates or gives you a flush.

I havent run JF in a long time, but I do remember it taking longer than normal. Just monitor your surface conditions and make sure its good to go. Let it ride.

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AZ Starman2112 said:

I'm looking to change from small screw in led bulbs to strip lights. I currently have the Growers Select bulbs which have a spectrum tailored with a "unique spectrum for mushroom cultivation".  What are you all using or what temperature range are you using?

I am looking at lights that give a 5000k Daylight range for growing. The same manufacturer also has 3 other grow options in T8 LED strip lights, but they don't like the kelvin scale. in 3 foot lights which would be ideal as I am mounting them on 3' wide shelves, they have 3 color options. Daylight 5000k, a pinkish white and a yellow. All lights are full spectrum. They are made by Barrina LED. I trust the manufacturer as I have a bunch of their stuff to light up stuff for black lighting and they make quality LED lighting.

Barrina LED 3' Grow Lights

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Mr Piggy said:

If you restrict airflow and conditions on your tubs, they are going to take longer to fruit.  Introduce fruiting conditions at spawn for the quickest and healthiest fruiting.

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naw that aint how u fruit tubs where tf u guys get this from
man spawn ur tubs let that shit colonize till 100 % then introduce fruiting for best results