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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ThurmanMurman]
    #28937773 -

ThurmanMurman said:
RoscoeReturns said:
ThurmanMurman said:
So I'm working on my ffu sterile technique, after a botched first attempt at A2G. I understand not to put my hands over open vessels and dont put anything between filter and my work. So one issue I could imagine causing problems was with the steps involving cutting up the plate. I work on a cookie rack, started out opening HG style plate, laid the lid on cookie rack with the top down, did my cutting, and then set the cup back on the lid upside down. Unscrewed grain jar lid almost all the way, flamed scalpel again, cooled it in the flow for maybe 5 seconds, then removed lid, set it top side down on the rack, used my scalpel to flick agar into the jar, then put the lid back on the jar. So my question is whether or not I should be placing the plate face down on the lid, bc it's pretty much impossible to do perfectly without touching the rim of the cup to the rim of the lid, and the rim of the lid was exposed to open air the entire time it was colonizing, so I'm wondering if that's where I picked up nasties. Disclaimer- this isn't something I considered until after the fact, and not something I did while actively wondering if it was a problem. Is this considered procedurally accurate or should I just leave the cup face up in the flow while I finish prepping the jar and scalpel?



I never put down lids on anything. Lift lid off plate, take wedge, put lid on plate. Take lid off jar and drop wedge in. Put lid back on jar. I never put down a lid. I never put down my scalpel. Unscrew jar lids and unwrap plates before I flame my blade so I can do everything with one hand.



You're only putting a single wedge in a quart of grain? I thought the procedure was to slice the whole plate into a grid and flick them into the jar. I suppose I could unscrew the lid entirely so it's just sitting on the jar, slice up the plate, remove lid and transfer and then replace lid. Not even dick around with setting down the plate or flaming again...



You can put multiple wedges in a jar. I do sometimes. You can also just do a single wedge. The result is the same it may just take slightly longer. If you’re not having pretty consistent success I would just use one wedge. Make your transfers quick and easy, and limit the chance of contamination.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: RoscoeReturns]
    #28937775 -

Hey everyone

I noticed in an ezdial tub, one side  has far less condensation  near holes than the other sides

Worth putting micropore tape on that side (and not the others), or would that ruin flow of FAE....  or is this not even worth worrying about?


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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: StophJS]
    #28937776 -

StophJS said:
Not really a question, but I asked a lot of questions recently about why my grainspawn keeps failing. To update: I did not yet change my lids or jars, but I did switch to reverse osmosis water, PC for two hours and inoculate in SAB by squirting fresh tested LC syringe directly onto grains instead of through SHIP. Still get this growth. For just a moment I thought there was healthy growth, but it only looked normal between the glass and first grains. Between grains it turns into this. No bacterial smell or otherwise obvious wet spot or sourness.





That doesn't look like healthy growth.  It looks so bad that I can't be 100% sure it's even cube myc, but yeah, it probably is just unhealthy cube myc.

If you tested the LC, then you have agar?  You could try throwing in a wedge instead of using LC.  Post pics of the agar you tested it on if you have them.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: longstrangetrip8] * 1
    #28937777 -

longstrangetrip8 said:
Hey everyone

I noticed in an ezdial tub, one side  has far less condensation  near holes than the other sides

Worth putting micropore tape on that side (and not the others), or would that ruin flow of FAE....  or is this not even worth worrying about?




I wouldn't worry about it.  Just pay attention to surface conditions.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: RoscoeReturns]
    #28937784 -

RoscoeReturns said:
ThurmanMurman said:
RoscoeReturns said:
ThurmanMurman said:
So I'm working on my ffu sterile technique, after a botched first attempt at A2G. I understand not to put my hands over open vessels and dont put anything between filter and my work. So one issue I could imagine causing problems was with the steps involving cutting up the plate. I work on a cookie rack, started out opening HG style plate, laid the lid on cookie rack with the top down, did my cutting, and then set the cup back on the lid upside down. Unscrewed grain jar lid almost all the way, flamed scalpel again, cooled it in the flow for maybe 5 seconds, then removed lid, set it top side down on the rack, used my scalpel to flick agar into the jar, then put the lid back on the jar. So my question is whether or not I should be placing the plate face down on the lid, bc it's pretty much impossible to do perfectly without touching the rim of the cup to the rim of the lid, and the rim of the lid was exposed to open air the entire time it was colonizing, so I'm wondering if that's where I picked up nasties. Disclaimer- this isn't something I considered until after the fact, and not something I did while actively wondering if it was a problem. Is this considered procedurally accurate or should I just leave the cup face up in the flow while I finish prepping the jar and scalpel?



I never put down lids on anything. Lift lid off plate, take wedge, put lid on plate. Take lid off jar and drop wedge in. Put lid back on jar. I never put down a lid. I never put down my scalpel. Unscrew jar lids and unwrap plates before I flame my blade so I can do everything with one hand.



You're only putting a single wedge in a quart of grain? I thought the procedure was to slice the whole plate into a grid and flick them into the jar. I suppose I could unscrew the lid entirely so it's just sitting on the jar, slice up the plate, remove lid and transfer and then replace lid. Not even dick around with setting down the plate or flaming again...



You can put multiple wedges in a jar. I do sometimes. You can also just do a single wedge. The result is the same it may just take slightly longer. If you’re not having pretty consistent success I would just use one wedge. Make your transfers quick and easy, and limit the chance of contamination.



Fair point. I did another 3 jars on Wednesday- hopefully I made some magic happen with one of them. Appreciate the response, amigo.


--------------------


Hitchhikers Guide to The Shroomery

Shine on forever, shine on benevolent son
Shine down upon the severed
Shine until the two become one

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ThurmanMurman]
    #28937846 -

What is the most logical pasteurization technique in 2024? Bucket is not the only reliable one, I use verm/gypsum/coir.


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Helllooooo wonderful peoplee!! I'm contacting you using a translation app. Forgive me for my perception, explanation, typos and many mistakes. I will learn English as soon as possible and beat this!!!

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: flyboi]
    #28937902 -

flyboi said:
What is the most logical pasteurization technique in 2024? Bucket is not the only reliable one, I use verm/gypsum/coir.



If it’s just bulk for spawning and your coir is clean (not inoculated with trich) pasteurization isn’t necessary and the bucket method works just fine. Also, gypsum isn’t totally necessary, but it doesn’t hurt.


--------------------
Mehhh



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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Wall.E]
    #28937923 -

repost of unanswered question from a month ago please

Quote:
maybe not so quick question please fellas

When pasteurizing, are people ramping up slowly and ramping down slowly to/from temperature? What is the best practice?

I have been wetting the sub in the vaccuum bags with 80°C water to get close to 69°C from the start, then sous vide for 2 hours once bath is at temperature plus an extra ten or fifteen minutes to allow for temp equalisation of my bags, which are made very thin, so that they come to temperature with the water very rapidly as it is climbing to temp with the sous vide

When I finish I just remove them and leave them on a shelf till cooled, then cut a slit to allow some air back in so everything is not anaerobic in there while they wait a day usually to get spawned

does this all sound alright and like best possible practice?

Or should I be rapidly cooling bags after pasteurization in a cool water bath and/or allowing them to rise to temp over an hour or more as the sous vide warms the bath?

I also assume I should be allowing air back in also and not leaving them sealed and vaccuumed there until use?

My process works fine it seems but I wonder what the gold standard is?

Thanks, good times



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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Nichrome]
    #28937943 -

I could use some pointers for pasteurizing bulk amounts of PE casing.

I don't quite need a 55gal steamer but I'm not opposed to building one.  I was also thinking a 100L steel pot and a big induction burner.  I hear temperature control is super precise with those can anyone tell me about their experiences with induction?

On the flip side, what can I get away with?  Can you avoid blobs with only pseudocasing or casing with only coir?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: spawnmachine37] * 1
    #28937947 -

Get a sous vide.

You can indeed get away with a nice packed coir casing or topper if you dial in your moisture.


--------------------
Question everything, it's very responsive.


Culture Storage

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: SingularFusion] * 2
    #28937964 -

SingularFusion said:
repost of unanswered question from a month ago please

Quote:
maybe not so quick question please fellas

When pasteurizing, are people ramping up slowly and ramping down slowly to/from temperature? What is the best practice?

I have been wetting the sub in the vaccuum bags with 80°C water to get close to 69°C from the start, then sous vide for 2 hours once bath is at temperature plus an extra ten or fifteen minutes to allow for temp equalisation of my bags, which are made very thin, so that they come to temperature with the water very rapidly as it is climbing to temp with the sous vide

When I finish I just remove them and leave them on a shelf till cooled, then cut a slit to allow some air back in so everything is not anaerobic in there while they wait a day usually to get spawned

does this all sound alright and like best possible practice?

Or should I be rapidly cooling bags after pasteurization in a cool water bath and/or allowing them to rise to temp over an hour or more as the sous vide warms the bath?

I also assume I should be allowing air back in also and not leaving them sealed and vaccuumed there until use?

My process works fine it seems but I wonder what the gold standard is?

Thanks, good times





I use @RoscoReturns Small batch pasteurization.

Small Batch Pasteurization

I loaded my casing and/or manure into 1 qt freezer bags for the process. I left them sealed until I used them. Worked fine.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: RockinRobot]
    #28937989 -

Anybody find that they've had more success making grainspawn in bags? Debating switching from jars on the off chance my spawn suddenly works. Grasping at straws, I know.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: StophJS] * 3
    #28937994 -

If you can't make jars work for you, switching to bags won't magically fix all your problems. You just need more practice and often practice in this hobby leads to wastebaskets full of gross stuff. That's normal and ok.


--------------------
Question everything, it's very responsive.


Culture Storage

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Nichrome]
    #28938000 -

I get it, but I wish there was at least some indication of what is going wrong. After months of experimentation, research, and controlling variables, I have identical results. Clean culture on agar wedges will not colonize my grains prepped according to verified teks and inoculated in a SAB. They do not go bacterial in any way I have seen anywhere on this forum. They just simply do not colonize.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: StophJS] * 1
    #28938001 -

Are you using millet?

I have heard of some of this being treated with an antifungal.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: GenesisCorrupted]
    #28938008 -

I've used oats from my local feed shop and rye. I had the same thought at one time but wrote it off after having the same results with rye off Amazon that others had success with.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: StophJS]
    #28938018 -

I just moved my grow area and realized the jars are now mostly in the dark the whole time theyre colonizing. I know people used to do this back in the day on ourpose. This is more incidental though. Is there any reason not to do this? Are they better off being given direct sunlight? Or does it not really matter.


--------------------



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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Tri]
    #28938019 -

Tri-Polar said:
callmehippie said:
About how many six quart shoe boxes is it possible to make with 3 lb of Spawn?

I've got a couple 3 lb grain bags I'm interested in spawning out into shoe boxes



Depends on your spawn ratio, 3-6 comfortably though I reckon






What's a good ratio?


--------------------
:hippie::mushroom2:Take it easy. if it's easy. take it twice:mushroom2::mushroom2:
:sporedrop:The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery:sporedrop:

**A LINK TO EVERTHING**


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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Nichrome]
    #28938055 -

Nichrome said:
Get a sous vide.

You can indeed get away with a nice packed coir casing or topper if you dial in your moisture.



Sweet! I'll try to avoid pasteurization altogether we'll see how it goes. 

Sous vide would work, I guess you guys pack in vacuum bags and submerge them in a cooler or something?  I can see the benefits to moisture control sealing in bags.  Is that pretty much the only way people prepare large amounts?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: spawnmachine37] * 1
    #28938105 -

I think bags are generally for fairly small amounts. Pasteurizing large amounts of substrate (usually straw, for oysters) tends to be done in big mesh baskets in drums of water heated over a propane burner; the basket is then just left to drain while it cools. Compost or manure based substrate could probably be pasteurized the same way, though I'd guess with a finer mesh (brew bag, paint strainer bag, or pillowcase).

Scale is a funny thing - a completely overwhelming amount of substrate for me would be pretty small for a commercial farmer.

Edit to add that I found sous vide pasteurization of casing to be a bit tricky since the sealed bags still had a lot of air in them. You have to weigh them down. (Though I used a fairly weak vacuum sealer for those and cheap poly tubing as bags. My chamber sealer would probably have done a much better job.)

Edited by Phaethon (09/06/24 11:34 PM)

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