towndaze said:

Casing layer if you're worried does it better with less fucky wucky than misting constantly. There's a general trend away from misting & burping in general I've been seeing TBH.

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Phaethon said:

Kimono said:

Me again, I'm back!

I'm having some really bad luck with Tamp spores.

I've put it to agar but all I grew was Penicillium

I made an LC (which was dirty as shit) and put it to agar to see if I could grab some myc, which then turned into this weird, hard growth which then turned green.

The closest I've got is what looks like VERY fine myc that never turned green with a bit of bacteria. I've then transferred that to no pour plates and I've got green mould and bacteria everywhere (with white myc still on the transferred agar)

I'm going again this evening with some myc from the original fine myc plate to peroxide agar as I've had fairly good experience with other species due to my house being a black mould paradise.

Anyone got any images of very early Tamp myc? Any advice on what else I can try to clean this shit up?

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Personally, I've never once had success cleaning up something that turned green after transferring. (If there's a spot of mold on a plate, that's not too bad. But it sounds like instead you are transferring mold mycelium, either isolated or enmeshed with tampanensis.)

Do you have the original print or syringe? You're going to be happier going back to the source if you do. Streaking a plate (rather than scraping spores off or rolling around a drop of solution) can help if there are some mold spores hiding in the source - the idea is for each part of the plate to receive a very small amount of spores, so that any mold spores and bacteria (which are hopefully there in much lower concentration than the tampanensis spores) germinate in isolated spots on the plate which are easy to avoid when transferring.

I couldn't find a picture of an early tamp plate of mine, but I find it looks a lot like cubensis at the beginning, maybe a little more consistently round on later transfers (no rhizomorphic reaching). Aging plates turn a little brown and sometimes grow little stones.

Edit: ah, here's a T2 from a few years ago (lower left):

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Agar Wedge said:

It's okay if a fruiting chamber has a little more FAE, as long as you maintain surface conditions for pin formation. In an ideal world everything would be dialled in enough to not have to do much. Though that sometimes ends up not being the case, misting intuitively based on what you are seeing is the right move.

Increasing FAE is often unnecessary with cubes. Unless theres no fae at all, they are content with just the airflow of passive evaporation through the lid of a shoebox or water tub. or the holes in the sides of a monotub.

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tree frog said:

I've seen some big open PE caps recently and that's likely from higher FAE.  One was a tent grow, and someone a decade ago posted some monster ones outside too.

Anyway, pins and knots don't need much evaporation.  But it does effect cap morphology during maturing with every species I've grown.  And PE from what I've seen needs more than a typical cube if you want open caps.

But, most folks are content with the closed penis looking caps.  And they're potent either way, and make less mess like that.

Since it's your first time growing them though I would go for the closed caps and not mess around with higher FAE.

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koma23 said:

tree frog said:

I've seen some big open PE caps recently and that's likely from higher FAE.  One was a tent grow, and someone a decade ago posted some monster ones outside too.

Anyway, pins and knots don't need much evaporation.  But it does effect cap morphology during maturing with every species I've grown.  And PE from what I've seen needs more than a typical cube if you want open caps.

But, most folks are content with the closed penis looking caps.  And they're potent either way, and make less mess like that.

Since it's your first time growing them though I would go for the closed caps and not mess around with higher FAE.

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Hi, mate, appreciate your thoughts.

It's not my first time growing PE though, I've just been doing it p9 style till now, but have recently read a lot about using a peat based casing, involving at least two casing layers and doing patching. All those teks involve a lot of FAE and misting (basically once daily) in order to achieve a dense pinset. You think this is outdated? They do produce really nice canopies and I haven't been able to get anything of sorts with p9's style grows (maybe just bad genetics though ...).

Patching ... Now that's a topic too ...

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towndaze said:

bluespirit13 said:

Any suggestions for which grain to use? I use WBS now and would be willing to try switching to something else.

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Depends on what's available. WBS is a problem for physical rather than biological reasons (uneven cooking and uneven distribution).

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WBS is great for cultivation and widely available at a decent price. 

I’m honestly laughing hearing all the stories about how messy it is, been using it for ten years and I don’t have messes all around.  I can’t find a single grain out of place anywhere.

Y’all sloppy.

Mr Piggy said:

Y’all sloppy.

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koma23 said:

Hi, mate, appreciate your thoughts.

It's not my first time growing PE though, I've just been doing it p9 style till now, but have recently read a lot about using a peat based casing, involving at least two casing layers and doing patching. All those teks involve a lot of FAE and misting (basically once daily) in order to achieve a dense pinset. You think this is outdated? They do produce really nice canopies and I haven't been able to get anything of sorts with p9's style grows (maybe just bad genetics though ...).

Patching ... Now that's a topic too ...

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Top dressed coir helps with blobs.  Peat does that and more.  But it's another step and most folks around here only use it for exotics.  I mostly grow Pans anymore, so I use it a lot.

If you do decide to try it, folks are going to tell you you don't need it and they are right.  That doesn't mean it can't be helpful but it does mean potentially learning something new and more work as far as prep.

Have you used a peat based casing before?  There's a lot of recipes out there but I like this one and I pasteurize it in an Insta pot.

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/29483577#29483577

And these are cased ochra done in a tent.  I thought they were something else do to a mislabeled culture

koma23 said:

It's not my first time growing PE though, I've just been doing it p9 style till now, but have recently read a lot about using a peat based casing, involving at least two casing layers and doing patching. All those teks involve a lot of FAE and misting (basically once daily) in order to achieve a dense pinset. You think this is outdated? They do produce really nice canopies and I haven't been able to get anything of sorts with p9's style grows (maybe just bad genetics though ...)

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Archespore said:

koma23 said:

It's not my first time growing PE though, I've just been doing it p9 style till now, but have recently read a lot about using a peat based casing, involving at least two casing layers and doing patching. All those teks involve a lot of FAE and misting (basically once daily) in order to achieve a dense pinset. You think this is outdated? They do produce really nice canopies and I haven't been able to get anything of sorts with p9's style grows (maybe just bad genetics though ...)

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What TEK are you following that tells you to mist once daily? The questions your asking make it seem like you're misunderstanding some of the fundamentals, which is why it was assumed you're on your first grow.

Treefrog(the trusted cultivator you replied to) just told you that you don't need the extra FAE for pin formation, only for fat caps. Did you read the advice she took the time to write out for you?

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Archespore said:

koma23 said:

It's not my first time growing PE though, I've just been doing it p9 style till now, but have recently read a lot about using a peat based casing, involving at least two casing layers and doing patching. All those teks involve a lot of FAE and misting (basically once daily) in order to achieve a dense pinset. You think this is outdated? They do produce really nice canopies and I haven't been able to get anything of sorts with p9's style grows (maybe just bad genetics though ...)

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What TEK are you following that tells you to mist once daily? The questions your asking make it seem like you're misunderstanding some of the fundamentals, which is why it was assumed you're on your first grow.

Treefrog(the trusted cultivator you replied to) just told you that you don't need the extra FAE for pin formation, only for fat caps. Did you read the advice she took the time to write out for you?

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callmehippie said:

koma23 said:

tree frog said:

Every time I've ever grown PE(alot).I only do a small little top layer when I spawn and it's always been good enough.

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Nice. You got lucky with good genetics ,)

koma23 said:

Archespore said:

koma23 said:

It's not my first time growing PE though, I've just been doing it p9 style till now, but have recently read a lot about using a peat based casing, involving at least two casing layers and doing patching. All those teks involve a lot of FAE and misting (basically once daily) in order to achieve a dense pinset. You think this is outdated? They do produce really nice canopies and I haven't been able to get anything of sorts with p9's style grows (maybe just bad genetics though ...)

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What TEK are you following that tells you to mist once daily? The questions your asking make it seem like you're misunderstanding some of the fundamentals, which is why it was assumed you're on your first grow.

Treefrog(the trusted cultivator you replied to) just told you that you don't need the extra FAE for pin formation, only for fat caps. Did you read the advice she took the time to write out for you?

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I'm only asking; what level of water evaporation from the substrate surface is optimal for promoting a dense pinset. There's a lot of conflicting info here and if you look around you'll find posts (not that old) saying that if you don't need to mist relatively often, that you basically don't have enough FAE. Now don't get me wrong, I'm completely aware that you can get good pinsets without such strong fae that you need to mist ed or eod and in fact, I never mist, I always have perfect surface conditions in my tubs without misting but I've also never done a true casing ...

I'm not following a specific tek atm though (so that daily misting was me paraphrasing, summing up what I've gathered thus far) was researching multiple topics, but amongst them, this one stood out: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26528392#26528392

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