Foreighn2891 said:

returning back to conversation about dark spot on agar, this one are clean, everyone sample of this specie gives same color which changes depending on the age, later it will turn to white. Similar situation with Bisporus and Cinctulus, all three are giving very specific looking mycelium on agar

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conz0r said:

Foreighn2891 said:

returning back to conversation about dark spot on agar, this one are clean, everyone sample of this specie gives same color which changes depending on the age, later it will turn to white. Similar situation with Bisporus and Cinctulus, all three are giving very specific looking mycelium on agar

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What dya' think it is? Metabolites?

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tree frog said:

The leading edge is forward growth, the hyphae avoid each other to capture as much territory as possible.

The yellow growth, they're starting to consolidate and are doing more digestion.  I've observed this expression in bisporus and chlorocystis.

Pink oysters turn the plate pink.  And there can be various other morphological and color changes throughout the lifecycle depending on the species.

Like the blue puffy balls cyans make, those are likely a form of sclerotia judging by the hyphae structure, though much less dense than what ps. tamps and mexi make.

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tree frog said:

The leading edge is forward growth, the hyphae avoid each other to capture as much territory as possible.

The yellow growth, they're starting to consolidate and are doing more digestion.  I've observed this expression in bisporus and chlorocystis.

Pink oysters turn the plate pink.  And there can be various other morphological and color changes throughout the lifecycle depending on the species.

Like the blue puffy balls cyans make, those are likely a form of sclerotia judging by the hyphae structure, though much less dense than what ps. tamps and mexi make.

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tree frog said:

I just put a jambo print to agar this morning and it is the smallest of the three cambo prints I have.

Komodo Island (which is also a cambo) also seemed to do better in the low to mid 70s than the high 70s compared to most cyan strains.

Nice work on getting pans going in such cool temperatures!

As far as flushes, narrowing down the genetics can help, as can even conditions across the substrate (or having a smaller surface area like in the jars I'm running).  But generally they don't rest between waves, which makes a flush a lot more nebulous than with cubes.  And the second flush pins will generally start maturing before the first one finishes.

In regard to misting, I wouldn't mist.  Things look good so let it ride in my opinion.

If you can keep it from colonizing the casing so much next time you run it, you'll likely get better coverage too.  This could be related to the low temperature (not knotting because it's cool), genetics, or the casing recipe/fruiting environment.  Of those, I'd start with a touch higher temperatures as the most helpful to encourage knotting before the casing is colonized.

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tree frog said:

Select away from the puffy and stone looking things on plates.

Aside from that, I think it's about initiating pinning.

For cyans and this is just my observations.

Temp in the mid 70s for at least part of the day (likely the main factor tbh).

High humidity but not saturated (so, 95-98%, but humidity gauges don't work well here so it's more about surface conditions.  Not overly saturated and not dry, just right).  Generally what this looks like is they colonize the casing for one or two days, and once they hit the air they knot.

Correct casing pH (more of a guess because 8-9 is what I run everything at).  Casing not super deep because it tends to cause oversaturation.  (Enough to cover most of the mycelium, but some should still be visible).

Light?  I don't know.  Light helps with evaporation and I generally put my pre first flush trays under the light so they have an idea where to pin.  Not a lot of light, I have a blue LED on the lowest setting and that's it.

I think for other species the strategy can be very different.  Mystery SA likes to stay vegetative unless I add grass and bacteria to the casing.  Maybe it doesn't like my casing pH?

I have another species I've yet to fruit that won't colonize my casing at all

And chlorocystis doesn't keep vegetating, but pins slowly and very poorly if I don't add grass and bacteria.

I have a bunch of jars of the above three going and plan to experiment some with acidic casing to see if it does better (peat but without calcium).

Anyway...  I'll post a pic in a moment of the jars I just cased and update this post.  But I'm not on my phone so brb.

Edit

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ansr said:

Gotta try my refusing Pan culture in jars again

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ansr said:

It refuses to pin, but it's my fault since I cant get the conditions right. It just grows a thick overlay

I only have this culture from a LC, no spores, and it's getting pretty old. Haven't touched it for months but transferred a piece to a new plate a week ago, gonna try it again

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arlo.arlo said:

meaty nightcaps

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They are meaty!

Nightcap Bolognese anybody?

arlo.arlo said:

meaty nightcaps

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