tree frog said:

RogerRabbit said:

You can have 100% humidity right at the substrate surface, while having +/-95% humidity within the air of the fruiting chamber itself.  Even at 99% humidity, if you're getting good fresh air exchange, evaporation from the substrate will occur.
RR

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Just wanted to clarify that quote.  He's talking about the chamber being 95 and the surface being 100.  The fresh air exchange, or mixing of these two microclimates, is how evaporation is occuring.

And the jcm provides a lot of air to the chamber.  I never measured rh in mine with anything halfway accurate though, but I'm sure it wasn't 100% throughout, or I wouldn't have had fruits.

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Thank you for the clarification/correction, I remember his post on that matter but sure as heck your quote was accurate, truly appreciated

ps,
Every single time (maybe 2 or 3 times in one year) i measured the rh in mine, 99% was the reading...in fact looking at my shitty hygrometer 99% would be the maximum reached anyway

akapulko said:

ttbvi

My question went unanswered a few days ago, so I thought I'd repeat it)When growing Panaeolus I always get mycelium bursting through the cover, so my cover is probably useless and results in a poor harvest.What should I pay attention to? The cover usually consists of peat/vermiculite, cactus soil/vermiculite.

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akapulko said:

Should I pay attention to the ph? I've never had it checked.

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tree frog said:

akapulko said:

Should I pay attention to the ph? I've never had it checked.

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https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/29123958

Yes, absolutely.  You  Don't have to follow all of the prep in this, but there is a section on checking the pH along with a pH reader I recommend that is affordable.

If it's not available in Russia see if you can find something similar.

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tree frog said:

As they seem happy fruiting on both dung and in grass, as opposed to say, pan bisporus, which only grows in grass and is a lot more finicky about how it's cased.

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Is the information on both wiki and psilosophy wrong?

"This is a little brown mushroom that grows on dung and has black spores." - wiki

"Habitat: Preferably the dung of buffalo and cattle, sometimes in manured soil, but rare." - psilosophy

I'm just asking and I would believe you over both sources, but I'm curious because I am trying to understand this variety

Quote:

For the pans I see a lot of recipes out there calling for 80% and up dung. This is completely unneeded and actually depending on the consistency of the dung your using would be too thick and cause your pans to go anaerobic. If your manure is perfectly aged and dried and is super light and fluffy you will have no problems with these ratios. However I often hear from people that they cannot get good aged manure, so far my recipe has worked with several diff quality manure however IME grass fed sun dried pile cooked cow manure works the best. .
They say pans are dung loving, but I think that they are really just grass loving and the manure helps the fungi absorb the nutes from the grass. So, by cutting straw into my dung it appears to still have that affect when you cut grass (straw) into it. Everything I have read says people experienced diminished yields when they dropped below 60% dung, but i use only 35% and get a average of 2.75oz dry a tray (3 "flushes")
so clearly they are getting the nutes required.

Anyway here is the recipe:

    65% chopped straw (no need to pre hydrate)
    35% manure
    5% verm
    1/2 cup gypsum (optional)
    Mix in water and bring to field capacity

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kingboomer said:

On the subject of manure -


In the past I've used horse, cow and donkey for cubes with good results.  Would elk, being a ruminant animal, work?  I have a bunch in my yard still under snow and was considering trying it out.  Thoughts?


-Kingboomer

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tree frog said:

Yeah it should be good, field capacity is on the dry side if you're doing the squeeze test.  The compost holds less water than coir so there's less to squeeze out, essentially.

kingboomer said:

On the subject of manure -


In the past I've used horse, cow and donkey for cubes with good results.  Would elk, being a ruminant animal, work?  I have a bunch in my yard still under snow and was considering trying it out.  Thoughts?


-Kingboomer

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I'm imagine it will work, but I have no idea how much to recommend you use. I would start at like 50% and 30% and dial it in.

But maybe someone else has a better idea.

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kingboomer said:

On the subject of manure -


In the past I've used horse, cow and donkey for cubes with good results.  Would elk, being a ruminant animal, work?  I have a bunch in my yard still under snow and was considering trying it out.  Thoughts?


-Kingboomer

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tree frog said:

It's really hard to get humidity to 100.  Not saying you're reader isn't crappy.

But going from 97 to 98 might take 2 minutes and going from 98 to 99, 20.  That's in my tent anyway with a decent reader and a bubbler running.  Had the exhaust off when I was playing with it.  But there was still air exchange from the bubbler.

Which is why I suggested trust the fruits not the reader.  My guess if it's reading 100, or even 99 if that's the max on the reader, it's bugging out somewhere in the high 90s.

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Yes, that is precisely why i used to run humidity cycles on a timer back when i had the tent rather than letting a humidity controller run the show, homemade water reservoir with a 6-head fogger from house of hydro. That thing would blast the entire tent in seconds, no joke. It was a lot of work. RIP. Never liked inkbirds for some reason. The JCM changed the game and pretty much takes care of itself, that and the fact that i keep the trays flooded, works like a charm. Hygrometers will eventually fry so its best to use them sporadically imho.