tree frog said:

I'd really like to try bisporus with harmalas someday.  Thanks for the reminder.

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stagger said:

I enjoy rue, especially the extraction.  Caapi also, and have enjoyed both with mushrooms in small doses, but only with cubes.  I personally don't feel Panaeolus needs any potentiators for me,

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fahtster said:

Made three blue spring trays yesterday.  Trying something different.  Hope it works out


Some pics of how long a lead I put on my sub vac bags.  Lots of time to stop the vacuum and seal before the water reaches the seal line

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The domes are just for colonizing.  The trays will go into a jcm chamber once done.  But cool that that worked for ya

The vac sealing is prior to water bath pasteurizing.  It was in response to an earlier post I made in this thread. 

fahtster said:

Thanks y’all.. like I said, your guys’ work made it easy, you should be proud of yourselves. 

One thing I’ll add and I don’t think I’ve seen mentioned a whole lot, so that’s why I’m pointing it out here… a few years ago Tedsdead (I believe it was him anyway) said that he vac sealed his casing prior to pasteurization and since I started doing it I haven’t any contamination in my casing.  I think it’s even more important to do with pasteurizing manure and straw. 

Not only does it help equalize the water content throughout the material but it also gets rid of air pockets which allows it to be heated up faster and more evenly to ensure proper pasteurization.

Maybe not something thats feasible when doing a ton of material but I think it would help a lot of new growers that aren’t necessarily familiar with pasteurizing.  If you do end up vac sealing, I’d recommend a decent amount of bag end between the material and seal line (4” or so) because you want to be able to see the water being sucked up towards the seal line and stop the suction and seal it before it reaches that line to make sure you get a proper seal.

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fahtster said:

The domes are just for colonizing.  The trays will go into a jcm chamber once done.  But cool that that worked for ya

The vac sealing is prior to water bath pasteurizing.  It was in response to an earlier post I made in this thread. 

fahtster said:

Thanks y’all.. like I said, your guys’ work made it easy, you should be proud of yourselves. 

One thing I’ll add and I don’t think I’ve seen mentioned a whole lot, so that’s why I’m pointing it out here… a few years ago Tedsdead (I believe it was him anyway) said that he vac sealed his casing prior to pasteurization and since I started doing it I haven’t any contamination in my casing.  I think it’s even more important to do with pasteurizing manure and straw. 

Not only does it help equalize the water content throughout the material but it also gets rid of air pockets which allows it to be heated up faster and more evenly to ensure proper pasteurization.

Maybe not something thats feasible when doing a ton of material but I think it would help a lot of new growers that aren’t necessarily familiar with pasteurizing.  If you do end up vac sealing, I’d recommend a decent amount of bag end between the material and seal line (4” or so) because you want to be able to see the water being sucked up towards the seal line and stop the suction and seal it before it reaches that line to make sure you get a proper seal.

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FLHX said:

I don’t have any dedicated casing.  I cased the trays in one tub with CVG substrate.
I’m making some casing from a bag of peat moss and vermiculite in a 50/50 mix to case the other tub. We will see how much difference it makes.

Am I on the right track. The strain is TTBVI.

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tree frog said:

FLHX said:

I don’t have any dedicated casing.  I cased the trays in one tub with CVG substrate.
I’m making some casing from a bag of peat moss and vermiculite in a 50/50 mix to case the other tub. We will see how much difference it makes.

Am I on the right track. The strain is TTBVI.

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Yeah you are on the right track.  There's a few things some of us do differently but other folks are running it very similar to that and getting good results.

Will be interesting to see what the CVG does.  I've cased other pan species with adjusted coir and they did okay.  And most folks are using jiffy mix or cactus soil if they are not making their own peat casings.  So I'm definitely curious to see what it does.

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astra said:

We grow together, we trip together....Cult boys for life

You're so right about pans wanting to be on their own, they're pretty much impossible to mix with anything else...too powerful.

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Yes, they can definitely pull you in quicker than expected sometimes, but it was also from a physical standpoint also. Physically uncomfortable  mostly with the other interactions with phenethylanine/amphetamine. It doesn't agree with me and I'm ok not pursuing other combos from those classes.

@treefrog, sorry , I wasn't goin on all about that to target your comment.  I think that sounds like it would be a beautiful experience to play with and dial in actually.  What I should've said was that I don't believe I've done enough work with these on their own that I need to be adding other elements.  Bisporus though sounds like it would be a proper session even at the threshold level.

@faht, sorry.  I feel like I was telling you what to do.  What I should've said was, I bet you can grow these in ziplocks too!!

FLHX said:

I seen a tek for pans that looked promising. It consisted of the 2” trays placed inside of a fruiting chamber with a jar of water and an aquarium bubbler stone.

I spawned to bulk into the trays. It had only took three days to
Colonize. The myc moves wicked fast. Three days to look like this:


I don’t have any dedicated casing.  I cased the trays in one tub with CVG substrate.
I’m making some casing from a bag of peat moss and vermiculite in a 50/50 mix to case the other tub. We will see how much difference it makes. Here is the setup:


Am I on the right track. The strain is TTBVI.

I REALLY REALLY want to achieve some success with pans. I’ve wanted to try them for awhile now. Hopefully this will work

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Hi there, welcome to the pan lovers thread

I see you have fae holes on the fruiting chamber tubs, nice. I also see one of them with the gaskets latched on, if so try not to close them, to allow more air circulation. It seems you're on the right track. If you do end up using the 50/50+ casing, remember the adjust the pH with hydrated lime/Calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)₂).

TTBVI is a variety known for being extremely potent so please exercise caution. I will assume you're experienced dosing with other species so 1 gram dry is usually a nice first timer dose with this variety in particular. If you think you're too sensitive, try 0.5g dry for good measure. Best of luck

hardhead43 said:

Pans Cyans Casing Layer Recipe:

2 quarts peat moss (or 2000ml)

2 quarts vermiculte (or 2000ml)

15g (or 2 TBSP) calcium hydroxide (pickling lime)

1 quart water (or 1000ml)

This worked great for me.  I put it into mycobags and pc for 90 minutes at 15 psi.

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I don't really like casing recipes.  Because what brand of peat you use and the base pH of your water are a factor.

For comparison, this is the casing recipe I use. It's what works with my water and the brand of peat that I use (sunshine).

8 qts of peat (sunshine)
0 qts of verm (fuck verm)
2 qts of water (pH 7)
22g calcium hydroxide (puts my pH at 7.5)

You can see I'm using way more peat and much less calcium hydroxide by comparison.

The recipes can help to give somebody an idea but I really suggest folks either use jiffy mix or cactus soil out of the bag, or invest in a good digital pH reader.  Calcium carbonate (non-dolomatic lime) is another option.  Because calcium carbonate is less likely to raise your pH much over 8.  I haven't tried that because I haven't found good powdered limestone.  But it's what Stamets recommends and what is commonly used for button mushroom casings.

As far as PH readers, I use this one and it's like 40 bucks.  Has saved me so much hassle.

https://a.co/d/hhIm1sj

Also I started to put together this casing thread but didn't finish it if anyone wants to explore more.

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28985610

And here's a comparison.  Peat casing vs asjusted coir.






Side by sides.  Same culture and everything the same other than casing.

hardhead43 said:

This worked great for me.  I put it into mycobags and pc for 90 minutes at 15 psi.

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