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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dkeppel] * 3
    #29103118 -

I've always just poured water on it and thrown it right back into fruiting.
No dunk.


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Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Asura] * 1
    #29103127 -

Asura have you managed to find some time to put bbar to agar?

:awesomenod:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dkeppel] * 1
    #29103168 -

Well we’ll find out how my trays do.  It’s aight if I lose em.  Honestly, it doesn’t feel like they took on much from the dunk anyway… it was more of a float than a submersion.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #29103274 -

No dunking necessary, particularly when it comes to pans. Submerging the substrate block can cause damage to its integrity and leave it vulnerable to contamination. That being said, I've had well over 4 waves of fruits and the block never contaminated, even when dumped outside next to the compost bin. Sterilization works flawlessly as long as the spawn is axenic :heart::heart:


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:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra]
    #29103318 -

Could I have a weed plant and copelandias thriving in the same grow tent"?

I'll hopefully have a bunch of cakes that wont fit nicely in tubs, so doing something in the grow tent would be nice. Maybe I can do a mini martha WITHIN the grow tent (its pretty sizeable).

Ideas? Recs?


--------------------
I call them Huskies cause they Mush!


Huskies' Grimoire
The Official Wild Cubensis Thread
Easy Instant Pot Agar
Let's Talk Cowtek

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Huskies] * 3
    #29103333 -

Bispo Prints


--------------------
Thank your postal workers when you see them. None of this would be possible without them.

Necessity is the mother of invention

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Huskies]
    #29103336 -

Frankly i've never grown weed so i wouldn't know jack about it but not sure if the level of humidity associated with pans would fry the plants or not.. Maybe build a JCM to accommodate a few trays in the meantime? :heart::heart:


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:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dkeppel] * 1
    #29103431 -

Dkeppel said:
Asura have you managed to find some time to put bbar to agar?

:awesomenod:


Yeah I have some that I spawned to a mycobag yesterday. The myc was pretty weak
so I don't know how it will go.


--------------------
Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Asura] * 2
    #29103464 -

:sad:

That's unfortunate, the wild clone is extremely aggressive possibly more aggressive than TTBVI!

If you would like for me to put the wild clone culture to agar and send you a wedge, I would be happy to do that.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Huskies] * 2
    #29103468 -

You could probably cultivate pans along side cannabis during the vegetative cycle but you would not want to do it during flowering or the humidity will be way to low for pans or way to high for cannabis and you will probably get bud rot.

Edit: Or, do your tent in a tent and vent the humid air from your smaller pans tent to outside the larger tent.

Edited by Dkeppel (01/27/25 12:46 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dkeppel] * 10
    #29103593 -


:shiteboard:
I blame it on the temp swings (even the cubes are complaining :shrug:) and lack of FAE - gonna crack open the lid for the 2nd


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“All this buttoning and unbuttoning”

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: 999999999]
    #29103621 -

Hey Panatics! I just put some Australian Red Down Under to a t2 transfer. I picked out the fastest and whispyist growth and made about 10 plates. I'm going to let those grow, and select the fastest/whispyist of those.

I've seen several mentions about Pans not being worthwhile going past T2. Is that related to growth type, or overall cleanliness of the culture? Like if some of the T2s don't have clean or even growth, is it worth taking them to T3 to clean them up?

I tried some BVI last year and failed because I was still learning agar and how to spot healthy cultures.

I'm just trying to understand if I have to hope/pray that the t2s come out clean and start over if they don't, or if I can clean them up as I would a cube culture?


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I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 3
    #29103627 -

Also depends on how big your plates are. If you're taking a bunch of fast transfers to 60 mm plates or little takeout cups that's different than letting a 90 mm plate grow out completely.

I just moved over to 90 mm myself and what I've been doing is taking a quick transfer off of my germ plate and putting three wedges on that first 90 mm plate.  So my t1 I'm not even growing out 60 mm.  Because my t1 plates have three wedges on them.

And if the growth looks good I don't even let it grow out very far before transferring it by itself to a 90 mm.  If that second transfer has nice radial growth I inoculate from there.  And usually I'm making enough transfers off of my germ plate doing it this way, like six to nine, the I'm going to get a couple of clean plates off of it assuming I'm not working with dirty or wild prints.  And if that's the case I would re-terminate and probably cabin sequester everything on the t1 or germinate on BRF pucks.

So, long story short. It's not so much an issue of what transfer you are on but how much you are letting them grow out on the plates.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29103631 -

tree frog said:
Also depends on how big your plates are. If you're taking a bunch of fast transfers to 60 mm plates or little takeout cups that's different than letting a 90 mm plate grow out completely.

I just moved over to 90 mm myself and what I've been doing is taking a quick transfer off of my germ plate and putting three wedges on that first 90 mm plate.  So my t1 I'm not even growing out 60 mm.  Because my t1 plates have three wedges on them.

And if the growth looks good I don't even let it grow out very far before transferring it by itself to a 90 mm.  If that second transfer has nice radial growth I inoculate from there.  And usually I'm making enough transfers off of my germ plate doing it this way, like six to nine, the I'm going to get a couple of clean plates off of it assuming I'm not working with dirty or wild prints.  And if that's the case I would re-terminate and probably cabin sequester everything on the t1 or germinate on BRF pucks.

So, long story short. It's not so much an issue of what transfer you are on but how much you are letting them grow out on the plates.



Thanks TF!

I did pretty much what you said. I'm working with 90mm plates. I did take 6 sections of healthy growth from my germ plate and put them to two separate 90mm plates. I didn't let them grow very much, just enough so I could see which sections started growing first (about a week). A lot of the germ wedges grew evenly, which is why I have so many t2s.

I'll give the t2s a week to tell which ones have the nicest growth, ditch any that don't perform well, and either inoculate or clean up the rest as necessary.

I'm planning to give your AIO jars a try. I found a local grain supplier with 1kg of popcorn for about $10 Canadian. Not sure how expensive that is in relation to other popcoen options in my city, but I'm going to pickup a few kilos.

Thank you for making excellent guides and for confirming I'm on the right track.

Quick question: What's your average time for your AIO jars to be fully colonized? I have a very basic two stone air pump and a shitty heater from my try last year. I want to change the heater for a submersible one, and get a 4 tube airstone pump. Hoping to get those in about 3 weeks. Will the AIO jars keep that long?


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29103701 -

They can colonize fairly quick.  But are also fine to let sit after colonization.

The first time I did them in half gallon jars, I went on vacation and spawned them when I got home.  So, they sat fully colonized without pinning for over a week.

Pan Cyan rarely pin on plates or invitro.  And my guess is that the cleaner your cultures are, the less likely they will try to pin early.  Without a contaminant they're not going to try to rush out fruits before conditions are more appropriate.

And I will see about going over my journal thread this morning. I have stuff that is pinning now so I might just write up a tek and add those pictures to it. Update as I get more fruits to share.

I will drop a link in this thread and my journal when I do.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29103786 -

Who has a writeup for setting up mini marthas for Bispo/TTVI? Also, do they have the same ideal fruiting conditions?


--------------------
I call them Huskies cause they Mush!


Huskies' Grimoire
The Official Wild Cubensis Thread
Easy Instant Pot Agar
Let's Talk Cowtek

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Huskies] * 1
    #29103900 -

They can fruit in the same tent but prefer a bit different conditions for proper fruit body development.  More fae for cyans and higher co2 for bisporus.  Using trays with varying depths seems to help (deeper trays for bispo).  Of the two, bispo tends to do better in monos from what I've observed of other folks grows, so that should give you some idea.

I don't have a link to a mini martha set up.  But I run my tent between 94-98% rH.  Low to mid 70s preferably.  And adjust my exhaust by feel.  Dialing in that last factor based on evaporation, fruit body development, and other tell tale signs such as fuzzy feet and overlay.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29104374 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Hey Panatics! I just put some Australian Red Down Under to a t2 transfer. I picked out the fastest and whispyist growth and made about 10 plates. I'm going to let those grow, and select the fastest/whispyist of those.

I've seen several mentions about Pans not being worthwhile going past T2. Is that related to growth type, or overall cleanliness of the culture? Like if some of the T2s don't have clean or even growth, is it worth taking them to T3 to clean them up?

I tried some BVI last year and failed because I was still learning agar and how to spot healthy cultures.

I'm just trying to understand if I have to hope/pray that the t2s come out clean and start over if they don't, or if I can clean them up as I would a cube culture?


That would be T1, not T2 my friend. Just needed to clarify that for the sake of fellow members reading :heart::heart:


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 2
    #29104387 -

I need to make a 50th post...

There are many great threads on this site, but this one is probably my favorite. My panaeolus game is not strong, but it's getting much better. Everyone has been helpful. I appreciate all of you. Thanks

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29104394 -

tree frog said:
Also depends on how big your plates are. If you're taking a bunch of fast transfers to 60 mm plates or little takeout cups that's different than letting a 90 mm plate grow out completely.

I just moved over to 90 mm myself and what I've been doing is taking a quick transfer off of my germ plate and putting three wedges on that first 90 mm plate.  So my t1 I'm not even growing out 60 mm.  Because my t1 plates have three wedges on them.

And if the growth looks good I don't even let it grow out very far before transferring it by itself to a 90 mm.  If that second transfer has nice radial growth I inoculate from there.  And usually I'm making enough transfers off of my germ plate doing it this way, like six to nine, the I'm going to get a couple of clean plates off of it assuming I'm not working with dirty or wild prints.  And if that's the case I would re-terminate and probably cabin sequester everything on the t1 or germinate on BRF pucks.

So, long story short. It's not so much an issue of what transfer you are on but how much you are letting them grow out on the plates.


Same here yayy, i love those 90mm plates, they're really nice :heart::heart:

Regarding pan transfers, i do let the mother plate grow enough (7 days worth of growth, that is) to cherry pick the best looking spots which isn't that difficult if you're used to how they express themselves on agar. Pan Bispo proved a bit of a challenge when the mycelium turned out light gray and very thin..almost mold like. Semps on the other hand, those do get 6 or 7 T1s and with good reason, myceliated grain jars are next level treasure. The thing with pan cyans i learned through the years, they do well with a couple of jars colonizing per pan cyan variety, i.e. 2 jars for Peace River, 2 jars for Texas maybe 1 jar for TTBVI and so on. They run very well around 1:3~1:4 in my experience. That being said, growing conditions will differ for everyone and what they can work with. I'm an agar maniac so its a lot more agar work than actual growing and for that i'm rightfully guilty as charged lol :mushroom2::mushroom2:

ps,
Love your work, sister :hug:


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Shop: MagicBag.co All-In-One Bags That Don't Suck   Original Sensible Seeds Autoflowering Cannabis Seeds   Myyco.com Isolated Cubensis Liquid Culture For Sale   Mushroom-Hut Substrate Mix   North Spore Bulk Substrate   Sporeworks.EU Spores for European Microscopy

Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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