Mycolorado said:

Perma

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On who???

ZenZombie said:

why is mine yellowing?
Made thread:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26815775

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Blue Helix said:

One of the hardest things to make in pan cyans is the casing.  If you do not allow the substrate to colonize long enough, then the casing will be overtaken by overlay.  Overlay can partially or totally close the casing off to pin formation because pins only form at the interface between the casing and substrate.  An overlaid casing will yield at least 50% lower than a well-colonized one.  If it's heavily overlaid, you'll lose everything but a few tiny mushrooms.So what should you look for?

First an overlaid casing - note this is a result of not allowing the bags to colonize hard enough and/or not alowing the trays to sit long enough after they are laid before applying the casing:



Sometimes you'll get pins where the overlay isn't as bad, but you can forget a canopy of fruits for this pan cyans (cubes really don't care much) if you have overlay.  Let's look at some that have partial overlay with pins (failures):



A properly colonized bit of non-nutritive casing (if you put nutrients in it like coco coir forget it), looks like (and performs like) this:




So what's the difference?  There is a persistent myth this is purely a matter of genetics.  In my opinion and experience it's not just genetics, although they do, admittedly, cause a propensity to overlay.  In 2018 I proved to myself that even genes prone to overlay could produce high yields and dense pin sets if precautions were taken. 

So what what precautions?

• If you colonize in a spawn bag, break up the substrate at 50% to 70%.  Allow the mycelium to well recolonize the bag.
  
• If you colonize in a spawn bag, do not open it to lay the trays the day it appears fully colonized.  Give it between two and four more days. 
  
• Once you lay the trays, put some toothpick-poked saran wrap over it an allow it to colonize at fruiting temperatures for 1 to 4 days.  You want it as colonized as it possibly can be without stalling it out.  During this phase, before you put the casing on, you want it to look like thick clouds of mycelium over the substrate.  The thicker the better.  Do NOT store the tray in low temperatures during this time.
  
• After colonization, make sure you apply a non-nutritive casing.  Coco coir is NOT idea (a fact I proved in 2004 through a detailed side-by-side grow).  If you suspect something might have nutrients in it but can we rinsed out, rinse it out!
  
• Provide an even casing (the more even the better; user a roller if you want) and allow it to colonize being very wet.  Keep it well hydrated.  Some folks even hand-mist it just up to the point little puddles form every day or other day.  I usually don't do this, but I do keep it very wet.
  

Just think of it this way: you are trying to get the mycelium to know it's finished with vegetative substrate growth by well colonizing the substrate.  That will trigger the casing colonization and pinning.
Hope this helps!!!

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This is great, will add to main post.