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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: bongoman] * 1
    #29496162 -

I use the little filter stickers and put one on each side using the grey lids.  If I leave them loose they don't seem to warp too much in the cycle. 

But I also have unmodified 2 cup pp5 containers I'm liking a lot right now for AIO.  I just keep the lid loose during colonization.

Bispo getting a little casing run.


Chloro colonizing.


A cyan cross I believe.

Edited by tree frog (02/24/26 06:07 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29496211 -

Piggy that was the funniest thing u said so far. Keep up the good spirits. My agar work is strong and hopefully I can prove you wrong.

Conzor, feel free to start your grow man I already inoculated my exotic tek jars and I'm out of jars now. I'm sure you will beat me. I had already said all of this and if you read my posts you would know I'm out of jars to do side by side races. I appreciate your encouragement though.

My tester BRF jar that I did with my LI to see if it would take looks like it is going good and clean. Potentially one of my cleanest starts so far. I had to use a few small sections of stem, couldn't just get the inside. It was from an indoor shroom so hopefully no contams show up.

My other jars were sketching out though, 3 had very bad smell when I scraped off my casing and I had to dig out about 1/2 the jar of these. They showed strong signs of recovery though. I scraped off all my casings and I'm doing a proper dunk. I will try a different recase.

Question: some of my jars have an air gap between the sides of the jar and the substrate, as my substrate has shrunk a good bit. Should I be trying to gently case the sides too? I'm thinking yes. I'm also thinking I should do a quick clean on the inside of the jars after my dunks since some had contamination.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 2
    #29496240 -

:batlol:

I see we're still flat out ignoring every single piece of advice, good job doc.


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29496243 -

tree frog said:
I use the little filter stickers and put one on each side using the grey lids.  If I leave them loose they don't seem to warp too much in the cycle. 

But I also have unmodified 2 cup pp5 containers I'm liking a lot right now for AIO.  I just keep the lid loose during colonization.

Bispo getting a little casing run.


Chloro colonizing.


A cyan cross I believe.


trying to speed up my little guys, MIB(red spore)/hawaii

Edited by Noah Keeper (02/24/26 07:43 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 2
    #29496267 -

I didn't wanna race you, I wanted to help you actually get something done. I've started my AIO's I was willing to do more so you might actually learn.


As for your question about jars, the second you see contamination you empty the jars outdoors and wash them with bleach vigorously - or just throw em like I do (easier said with plastic).

This isn't debatable, there are no second opinions, you don't dunk or re-case, you get rid. But you've been told this already, stop actively trying to be poison.

Thanks Strawboy - that I shall do! xXxX


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29496278 -

your jars aren't the only thing with a bad smell


--------------------
Learn it, know it, live it


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: bongoman] * 1
    #29496293 -

bongoman said:
Generic said:
Lids will rust and occasionally get replaced when I want something fancier, but its usually not necessary.


I have a love/hate relationship with metal lids and the setup you describe. Full SFD's above a drilled lid are still my top preference but I dislike the rust factor, they just start to feel "dirty" and crusty even if they still work just fine. And I don't like how they stain my SFD's, nor having to fiddle around unscrewing them when the threads a bit catchy when inoculating.

At some point they get retired to use as spacers in the pressure cooker etc



Mine don't rust that much compared to yours, I think, maybe for 2 reasons.

1.  I try to always throw a tablespoon or two of vinegar in the pressure cooker to clean rust and keep minerals from building up

2.  I used to use jar rings as spacers and to keep things off of the bottom of the pressure cooker, but that just leads to more rust, as those add to the rust buildup and require more vinegar to offset that.  I switched to an aluminum trivet with stainless steel nuts and bolts to elevate it, so there's not a sea of rust at the bottom.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

as to the differences in lids, I would not recommend permanently siliconing small sections of SFD's over the holes in METAL lids, as those will rust and will be a pain, because all of it will need to be replaced.  If one is to silicone a small circle of SFD over a hole, then I'd recommend doing that to the plastic lid, and as TreeFrog pointed out, simple things can be done to prevent warping, but it is not a skill i've acquired as I use the plastic ones as a second choice, but it's not hard to not mess them up, I've stopped warping them... usually.

Edited by Generic (03/09/26 03:27 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dj_karma_magnet]
    #29496768 -

Dj_karma_magnet said:
Thank you, I have screw on metal lids but I’m gonna try this.

Just to be clear, 18 hour wbs soak, 1/4 hole and glue filter disc on lids, 3/4 full with wbs, attach lid, pressure cook at 15 psi for 90 mins, let cool off, remove, open lid in front of flow hood and add agar?


(Sorry for shitting up the thread just want to make sure I’m doing this right)


I have my lids loose during sterilization to avoid any warping on the plastic lids, most of the time I let the jars cool inside the PC and tighten the lids before removing them, I have foil over the lids and so far I haven't had a problem with doing it this way.

I wipe down my jars, unscrew the lid a tad and place them in my SAB, unscrew the lids until they rest on the jar. I then inoculate the jars with a single wedge of agar or free pour LC/SSLC, I angle the lid just enough to inoculate.


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kloakk]
    #29496959 -

I’ve noticed that the majority of people seem to inoculate grain from agar wedges or LC.  Are grain to grain transfers not advisable with pans?  If it was initially inoculated from agar, and appears to be clean.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Pit pat]
    #29496978 -

If I fruit from jars do I need to shield the bottom of the jar from light? I read a post where this was suggested but I haven't really seen people talk about this.

I was just going to use some thick paper and a small piece of tape, not foil.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 1
    #29496982 -

If you fruit from tubs the same mindset would apply, light is not a fruiting trigger and as such there's no value in covering the bottom of tubs or jars because the increased light won't make a difference.

Maybe try to successfully grow cubensis to get a better understanding of the process?



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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Pit pat] * 1
    #29496992 -

Pit pat said:
I’ve noticed that the majority of people seem to inoculate grain from agar wedges or LC.  Are grain to grain transfers not advisable with pans?  If it was initially inoculated from agar, and appears to be clean.


Pans deal less well with minor bacterial contamination than cubes.  And grain to grain is one more opportunity to accidentally get bacteria in your jars.

Personally speaking, I've never found a need for that much grain.  And if I did, I would inoculate multiple jars off one plate rather than doing a g2g.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29497176 -





This morning noc'd six little AIO tubs of 1:1 popcorn/ CVG-worm castings mix. 2 Eungai, 2 Nec-D, 2 Komodo X TTBVI. Also eungai and nec-D thrive in the lower to mid 70s. Side note that's double layers masking tape bleached and then epoxied on. I ran outta filters and I didn't wanna wait.

Did the break and shake on 4 boxes this morning, all is going well and far ahead of anything I had anticipated. It looks like it'll be time to case by day 12 for Eungai, Nec-D and Komodo X ttbvi AIO boxes. Very exciting!

T-F if you could lemme know if you watering with castings tea is beneficial/essential that'd be fab. Loving your pics lately too! Quality is on point xXxX

Something of note!: When the same amount of agar from the same dish is applied to a 1:1 mix as oppose to straight grain the substrate seems to be retaining heat and what I can only guess is a "biome"? And has allowed Nec-D to go at the same speed as Eungai at these less than ideal temperatures. The nec-D, ttbvi, Byron bay, grain all moving slowly but surely. Does not like 75 at all so I alternate between 75-77 because of £.

Anyway hope that's useful maybe to somebody. Maybe for those wishing to do Pans but has trouble maintaining 76-80. It'll all be going into a tent in the coming weeks.

Mush love vibrationists:mushroom2:


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





Edited by conz0r (02/25/26 12:48 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r]
    #29497193 -

I don't water it with castings. I put about a handful in per quart of dry peat.

And yes, it seems to make a differnce.  Though I honestly haven't done any side by sides, I got the idea after watching kloakk, bra, and a few other folks use peat mixes that had some nitrogen in it with good results.

And I haven't looked back.  No issues with contamination, not any harder to prep.  Seems to improve pin sets and late flushes.

It does change the composition some, so might not work as well with 50/50 peat/verm.  But outside of a recent side by side experiment for reddit detractors, I haven't seriously used verm in casing for awhile.

Edit:  And yes, the AIO jars are generally a lot quicker than grain at the same temperatures.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29497202 -

So your saying a sprinkle of castings in the casing? I got chunky peat moss and I was just gonna go 50/50 with coir, fahster has broke the camels back on verm in pan/ a lot of exotic casings. Also I'll go with straight peat moss if that's your recommendation babe ☯️ (with castings if that's what you're sayin')

Might even go Fahsters baggie Tek...

Thanks for the reply, hope you're riding the waves and not the other way around xXxX


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





Edited by conz0r (02/25/26 12:59 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r]
    #29497217 -

Oh better today, was pretty reactionary yesterday.

And yeah just sprinkle some in when you prep it. You don't have to pasteurize it probably but I think it's better to be on the safe side.  Same goes for peat tbh.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29497613 -

@DERRAYLD

Ok, but for tubs the volume is increasing exponentially for inner substrate compared to the outer layers. In jars there is more of a percentage that is exposed to light. Not as many threads on here doing AIO jars, but if wrapping a jar could help energy the mycelium would use growing towards the sides, (whether a pin forms or not because it never hits air), vs. the top and producing a fruit, maybe it could help yields from jars?

It was an older thread and it was someone substantial recommending wrapping the jars to increase chances of success, especially with some finnicky Panaeolus species. If temps were a little cold it may prevent the jars from radiating their heat and maybe keeping them in range as well?

This is conversation, this isn't me just saying you're wrong and me doing my own thing. This is constructive conversation and I want to make sure all the angles are being looked at for whether it may be worth the time to wrap the jar bottoms or not. I can see how for tubs it may not be worth it, due to the fact that there's so much inner substrate, and also constantly seeing the sides may help with keeping a tub dialed in.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 2
    #29497630 -

You don't get to say "oh, this is conversation", mostly because you refuse to follow instructions or advice. You have proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that you're just a little troll with nothing better to do, so go peddle your bullshit on social media.

Or, IDK, grow an actual fucking mushroom.


--------------------
"For the powerful freedom-takers who rob justice from us all, that's why I keep my pistol loaded, powder, cap, and ball..."
Read more, post less!
...turns out, I'm an amateur at everything

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29497633 -

And in regards to the comments on casing, I decided to stick with TF's advice in not using verm for my exotic AIO jars. After steaming the jars the soil has good airy composition and isn't too packed.

But for the regular BRF jars I had not been having great results without verm, so I recased using 50:50 verm and soil. I did some extensive reading through threads past, and I fell upon several older Panaeolus grows that had success using 50% verm and 50% moisture control soil (large amount of peat in it), without any special pasteurization, and had success. Some people were even using sand. I liked the consistency of how it looked, and based off of how my mycelium had been growing I think this may help. It looks like it will allow proper FAE and not be too compact.

I tried to stick to around 1/4" as per RR suggestions, maybe slightly over. I had read some threads saying if overlay had been an issue to increase the casing depth just slightly. I brought the soil to about FC, maybe slightly over, and then added verm, and it made everything not too compact.

Now some threads I read were against misting after casing, and other threads were very stern on saying if you are providing proper FAE, then misting is an absolute necessity. This is where the headache for me begins. I am veering towards casings may needing some misting if giving proper FAE, this makes sense. I think my species is also slow enough that misting is essential. Always looking for feedback.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29497634 -

tultedspoon said:
It was an older thread and it was someone substantial recommending wrapping the jars to increase chances of success, especially with some finnicky Panaeolus species. If temps were a little cold it may prevent the jars from radiating their heat and maybe keeping them in range as well?



More likely wrapping the jars would insulate them from heat coming in.  Because the infrared light will penetrate the glass and then warm the substrate.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (02/25/26 07:27 PM)

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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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