Centerfinger said:

I followed asura's casing tek, it may have been an old tek, but was in tree frogs guide. Asura sterilized the casing. It's my first go at pans, if it doesn't pan out I'll try another tek.

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Asura said:

Centerfinger said:

I followed asura's casing tek, it may have been an old tek, but was in tree frogs guide. Asura sterilized the casing. It's my first go at pans, if it doesn't pan out I'll try another tek.

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Lots of people do it, and it's not exactly "old". My write up has been continually updated since the OP, and the casing section is quite new.

Also, be wary of people who say "never". There's a lot of parroting on this site.

This works great! So well, that I would be hard pressed to change my method.

Good luck!

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ReverendMyc said:

Are you pan canopy masters flattening you casings at all? I have always just crumbled and sprinkled my casings on anything that I case and I am doubting myself now. My casing for the current run of tubs was a little wetter that usual when applied. Looking at it now the crumbly surface makes me think that I should have done a little flattening. Not compressing, per se. Just some leveling.

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Since nobody else has answered you yet, I'll give you my unnecessary complicated way of doing it, and I'll do it with a long ass post with a lot of unnecessary information

So even before I get started on how I do it, I would like to start with explaining why I do it. So the main purpose of a casing(in my opinion) is to create a desirable micro climate just above the colonized substrate.

What climate is that? Eehh nobody asked you Kloakk. Well, I'll tell you anyway, what I am looking for is a very loose casing layer that can hold and maintain high humidity with a lot of gas exchange. I also want the depth of the casing to be same throughout the tray.

To obtain this I'll have to think about the casing when I spawn. I don't compress my pan substrate, but as I mentioned the other day, I lift the tray slightly above ground and let it drop to get some compression. I then use my trowel, but only apply enough pressure to make sure the substrate is completely leveled.

Then I let the substrate colonize for however long it takes to colonize 100%. I can then start my casing ritual and I'm happy to tell you that this is where the fun begins, buckle up, it's going to be a bumpy ride.

First, tools. I only use two tools and it depends on the tray, or rather the substrate depth, hmm it might be both. Anyway so I'll either use my trusted stainless steel ruler(metric) or my contour gauge, yes you read that right, the contour gauge. I also use gloves and my hands and some might consider that tools, but this being the hobby it is I would think most of you have that laying around somewhere, I for one can often find my hands in my pants or the cookie jar.

So we got a leveled 100% colonized tray, we got a stainless steel ruler(remember it has to be metric or the tray will get contaminated), gloves, hands and contour gauge, oh and you might want some pasteurized casing on hand as well.





When do I use the ruler? Well sometimes the stars align and the depth of my tray and the amount of spawn+substrate is perfect, meaning that all I have to do is sprinkle on casing lay the ruler on the edge of the tray and work back and forth until the whole tray is cased.



Most of the time though I ain't that lucky and so, the contour gauge comes to save the day. With this tool I can make sure that the depth of the casing is exactly what I want and make sure the depth of the casing is the exact same in the whole tray.

Since I'm casing pans in this example I want a pretty thin casing so I use my metric ruler to measure the distance from the substrate to the edge of the tray, here it's 4cm.



I usually want about 5mm for pan casing, but with some mycelium bumps here and there I set my contour gauge to 3,2cm, making the casing 8mm.




I'll set the contour gauge so it fits inside the tray, but rests on the tray edge, I can't space out the contour gauge closer to the sides because then the rounded corners of the tray would stop me from getting to the end of the short sides, like this.




Now I just apply casing a little higher and work the contour gauge back and forth until the tray is cased.





I often end up with a little too much casing in the tray, but that is fine, I'll bring it to the short side and press it down while telling myself that it will help with sidepins, win win, and done.




The reason I'm doing my casing like this(beside my many diagnoses) is to get that really airy(minimal compression), high humidity, and consistent micro climate. I believe it helps to get even pinning(if my spawn was clean)

Hope any of this helps Rev

fahtster said:

Burringbar clones getting close


It’s been quite the journey with bbar for me.. the print I got was a small light one so it was a one shot deal and took me a long ass time/transfers to find something usable.  When I finally got it to grain, the tray only put out 2 clusters of the smallest mushrooms I’ve seen from pans.  I cloned em and these are their clones.  Pretty excited to get a nice print of em

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cronicr said:

Yeah I'm pretty suspect about my b bar cultures idk they look strange lol, same thing half a print that was light as ever and only one plate " took "

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Foreighn2891 said:

Nice 😃 I am kind of experiments loving person. How was results on pure grain? Massive grow or just enough to refresh prints ?

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Kloakk said:

...
The reason I'm doing my casing like this(beside my many diagnoses) is to get that really airy(minimal compression), high humidity, and consistent micro climate. I believe it helps to get even pinning(if my spawn was clean)

Hope any of this helps Rev

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Is your real name Oscar Levant? Sorry for doxing you.

fahtster said:

Burringbar clones getting close


It’s been quite the journey with bbar for me.. the print I got was a small light one so it was a one shot deal and took me a long ass time/transfers to find something usable.  When I finally got it to grain, the tray only put out 2 clusters of the smallest mushrooms I’ve seen from pans.  I cloned em and these are their clones.  Pretty excited to get a nice print of em

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