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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29167019 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
I put the lid for my tray on inside the JCM and pins seemed to develop overnight. Unfortunately, I am seeing the early signs of trich as well. Now it's a race






Dala's suggestion was on point. I was wondering if you keep your manure in a barrel or compost bin like i do in my yard. Never had any problems with water/rain flooding my bin. I do turn the whole pile once a week to keep things going. Once the pile is ready for use, i will fill a pail bucket 2 inches below the brim and snap on the lid as in sealed. I keep this bucket next to my rainboots in the genkan (entryway) of my house.

Whenever I get the sun dried manure (they keep mountain-sized piles on a tarp outside) from my local racing horse stable, all i have to do is mix it with my lawn cuttings, wheat and rice straw and whatever else is available at the time. Once you get into composting, it becomes another hobby itsel, whole new level of self sufficiency and cheap AF ($3~4 bucks per 20kg sacs) and everything else is free, mostly giveaways from fellow neighbor farmers.

Normally, i'd be importing my coir from Sri Lanka around $50 shipping included. Classic bucket prep as needed but to be honest, i mostly grow using sterilized manure based substrates. Your spawn needs to be FLAWLESS beyond doubt. Its like a empty/clean slate and only the mycelium will be allowed to colonize at will, no competition threat by other bacteria/nasties. If i have a jar of questionable spawn and i feel like sending anyway, that's what prepped coir is for... never manure. It gets segregated on its own container and fruiting chamber, like a little county jail cell lol.

There is another way of properly aged manure/straw mixed with little amounts of grain and then sterilize. It would require clean/flawless LC for inoculation but that might involve using a syringe and other steps i'm simply not used to. I don't work with syringes at all.

That being said, i hope you give sterilized pan substrate a chance (you'll need a 9.84 x 19.69 inches (250 x 500 mm) standard size grow bag with 0.002 (0.06 mm) thickness minimum).



ps,
Bad shadowing when taking pictures of my pot, there are 4 quarts of water that nearly reaches the tall trivet i use. 2hrs @ 18psi (for pan substrate) works like magic in my own experience (results may vary according to the person's own PC specs among other variables)


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 1
    #29167139 -

I store my manure similar to you except it's black cow brand composted manure and it's in a tote. It just isn't dry. I'll post some pictures once I dig it out and get to work.

I'm 99% sure that my agar is flawless. I cant take pictures of agar to save my life, but a couple dozen pages back The Atlantean and Baba (I think) showed me some pictures of what theirs looks like and 100% of my RDU and BVI cultures looks the same. Thin, whispy, doesn't grow circular but does have organized strands. It's because of that I'm leaning towards uncolonized chunky manure being my problem.

Just for experimentation sake, I think I might try a hybrid of a couple methods to see what happens. If it doesn't work out, I'll return to a more standard method, but in my head it should meet pan nutrient requirements and solve my chunky problem.

I'm going to mix my manure with water so I can run it through a sieve, use that to hydrate some coir and mix in the additives TF uses in her AIO jars (Micronutrients, Calcium Carbonate, Gypsum). I'm going to PC that in a bag and set it aside for some BVI that I just put to Rye this afternoon.

I'm also going to dry some out with verm for future tries, but I'd like to build a screen so I can be sure it's only powder and no chunks. I'll build that in a few weeks.

If I'm remembering right, Astra, you spawn your sterilized substrate/colonized grains in open air. Is that correct?


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I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

Edited by PuffM4gicDr4gon (03/23/25 09:04 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29167144 -

Manure pics:




It's not mud, but does clump with the slightest squeeze. Way above field capacity is the best way I could describe it.


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

Edited by PuffM4gicDr4gon (03/23/25 09:49 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29167214 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
I store my manure similar to you



Just make sure to ship high in transit.


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29167217 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
I store my manure similar to you except it's black cow brand composted manure and it's in a tote. It just isn't dry. I'll post some pictures once I dig it out and get to work.

I'm 99% sure that my agar is flawless. I cant take pictures of agar to save my life, but a couple dozen pages back The Atlantean and Baba (I think) showed me some pictures of what theirs looks like and 100% of my RDU and BVI cultures looks the same. Thin, whispy, doesn't grow circular but does have organized strands. It's because of that I'm leaning towards uncolonized chunky manure being my problem.

Just for experimentation sake, I think I might try a hybrid of a couple methods to see what happens. If it doesn't work out, I'll return to a more standard method, but in my head it should meet pan nutrient requirements and solve my chunky problem.

I'm going to mix my manure with water so I can run it through a sieve, use that to hydrate some coir and mix in the additives TF uses in her AIO jars (Micronutrients, Calcium Carbonate, Gypsum). I'm going to PC that in a bag and set it aside for some BVI that I just put to Rye this afternoon.

I'm also going to dry some out with verm for future tries, but I'd like to build a screen so I can be sure it's only powder and no chunks. I'll build that in a few weeks.

If I'm remembering right, Astra, you spawn your sterilized substrate/colonized grains in open air. Is that correct?




Yes, that's store bought black kow brand or something like that. Some people use it straight out of the bag hoping to get a single flush at least but most pasteurize if i remember correctly. I find nothing wrong with store bought compost or other substrate additives but as i mentioned in my previous post, i was taught old school by someone that was 8 years ahead of me growing pans and one of our last grows together happened to be pan cambos, unforgettable...anyway i prefer to do most of my stuff homemade so i can have first hand quality control without having to guess how much of which ingredients were added by ratio and so on. By making my own composted manure, peace of mind comes naturally. Now as Dala suggested, you can add verm and see if you can achieve fluffy and airy just like pan mycelium likes it.

As for Micronutrients, AIO jars and experimentation, you might want to contact that person directly as we're no longer keeping communication, Sorry. I've used manure less coir before just for kicks and grew some inside a bucket outdoors but the yield was trash tbh.

To answer your last query, yes i spawn all my trays in open air, no fh/ffu or anything. Never needed one. :heart::heart:


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra]
    #29167222 -

Thanks Astra!

Pans are a learning experience for me, so I'm OK with some failure or lackluster flushes. It's all a process and I'm sure I'll get it figured out eventually.

I do live near farms and I see aged horse manure on FB marketplace from time to time, but our winters average -15c with dips down to -40c so I will have to wait until summer before I can get some. It's all frozen to the ground for now. Once I do, I'll definitely give your method a try.

I'm sorry to hear about the conflict between you and that person. I hope you're doing OK.


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Mr Piggy]
    #29167230 -

Mr Piggy said:
PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
I store my manure similar to you



Just make sure to ship high in transit.



Hey Piggy, I don't understand this comment. Could you elaborate please?


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 2
    #29167251 -

Ship High In Transit

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29167252 -

Oh duh! Thanks Faht!


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29167268 -

so what are the concepts when making a casing?

1. it has to hold water
2. should be non-nutritive (is coir?)
3. it has to have a certain pH?
(unless its totally nutrient-less like vermiculite?)

for the pH, TreeFrog & anyone else, is coco coir pH adjusted because it has some nutrients in it?  and vermiculite doesnt have to be pH adjusted because it has no nutrients?

what is the ideal pH for a pan casing?

i'm thinking of using charcoal, a non-nutritive, water retentive, porous carbon that i could sift to find certain particle sizes similar to medium or coarse vermiculite.

the benefit of coal being that I make it and always have it on hand, also that normally it comes with ash in it, an alkaline substance that i normally try to rinse out of the coal.  so it could naturally be a high pH, depending on how it was made and how much rinsing was done.  or it could be pH adjusted.  all without buying anything.  Thoughts?

edit for clarity of my motivation:  i want to experiment with natural products and using less resources.  I don't want to buy vermiculite, peat moss, or hydrated lime

Edited by Generic (03/24/25 12:17 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic] * 2
    #29167283 -

What do you pan experts do to tame an overlaying culture?  I have this clone that seems like it wants to overlay every time I try to grow it no matter what sub I use.  It does eventually does pin… these trays overlaid badly so I flipped them and cased the bottoms and they did pin after two casings..


Those were cased on day 5 (the first time) and then these new trays seem like they’re also overlaying..


But not as badly and not as quickly but they were cased on day 6.  Could it be that I’m just casing them too soon.  They’re 100%+ when I case em but I’m thinking maybe I should wait til like day 8 or 9 before putting them into fruiting.. idk.  What y’all think?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29167285 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Thanks Astra!

Pans are a learning experience for me, so I'm OK with some failure or lackluster flushes. It's all a process and I'm sure I'll get it figured out eventually.

I do live near farms and I see aged horse manure on FB marketplace from time to time, but our winters average -15c with dips down to -40c so I will have to wait until summer before I can get some. It's all frozen to the ground for now. Once I do, I'll definitely give your method a try.

I'm sorry to hear about the conflict between you and that person. I hope you're doing OK.




No problem, i love keeping my work flow as simple as possible. Fundamentally speaking, the less unnecessary additives or radical changes, the less vectors for contamination or chances for failure. You're welcome to experiment and try different methods but with that comes trial and error, time, money and resources that should always be taken into consideration. As long as you keep several projects going, you won't be left without something to do. Also thanks, but this isn't my method, it was Blue's, i'm just mega stubborn when it comes to LC, i prefer agar... plus fully colonized plates taste like heaven with cream cheese :heart::heart:

:nicesmile:

Edited by astra (03/24/25 01:40 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster] * 2
    #29167292 -

fahtster said:
What do you pan experts do to tame an overlaying culture?  I have this clone that seems like it wants to overlay every time I try to grow it no matter what sub I use.  It does eventually does pin… these trays overlaid badly so I flipped them and cased the bottoms and they did pin after two casings..


Those were cased on day 5 (the first time) and then these new trays seem like they’re also overlaying..


But not as badly and not as quickly but they were cased on day 6.  Could it be that I’m just casing them too soon.  They’re 100%+ when I case em but I’m thinking maybe I should wait til like day 8 or 9 before putting them into fruiting.. idk.  What y’all think?



I wouldn't call myself an 'expert' but more like old fashion experience dealing with these guys. I keep it simple and pan clones were never my cup of tea. I've tried them but the yields were dogshit with unpredictable behavior like massive stroma instead of fruits, pinning super late, sometimes not pinning at all..lol
Cubes do great with clones, pans not so much imho. MS ftw.

ps,
clone vs ms



--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 2
    #29167296 -

Lone tray kept segregated due to lack of space, atta boys :mushroom2:




--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 2
    #29167309 -

astra said:
fahtster said:
What do you pan experts do to tame an overlaying culture?  I have this clone that seems like it wants to overlay every time I try to grow it no matter what sub I use.  It does eventually does pin… these trays overlaid badly so I flipped them and cased the bottoms and they did pin after two casings..


Those were cased on day 5 (the first time) and then these new trays seem like they’re also overlaying..


But not as badly and not as quickly but they were cased on day 6.  Could it be that I’m just casing them too soon.  They’re 100%+ when I case em but I’m thinking maybe I should wait til like day 8 or 9 before putting them into fruiting.. idk.  What y’all think?



I wouldn't call myself an 'expert' but more like old fashion experience dealing with these guys. I keep it simple and pan clones were never my cup of tea. I've tried them but the yields were dogshit with unpredictable behavior like massive stroma instead of fruits, pinning super late, sometimes not pinning at all..lol
Cubes do great with clones, pans not so much imho. MS ftw.

ps,
clone vs ms





Cool.  Guess I’ll just stick to ms then.  Ty

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #29167430 -

This is my first time growing pans. They started pinning on the 7th day, but I'm getting very few pins, mostly on the sides—though not in the gap between the tray and substrate, but rather near the edge of the tray. This is the 9th day now.

Could a thick casing layer be an issue for pans? Mine is at most 6mm thick. Or could pH be a factor? My casing has a pH of around 9 max. Just brainstorming factors which could have gone wrong. The room RH is hovering around 40%.

My tent RH fluctuates between 85-99%, and the temperature is steady at 27°C. The humidifier runs for 8 minutes on and 15 minutes off. The fan runs for 10 minutes every 40 minutes—this setup was adjusted over time to prevent excessive water pooling by the end of the day.

I've seen others get tons of pins, but I’m only getting around 5-8 per tray. Any insights on what might be causing this?


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Happy growing and may your harvests be plentiful! 🍄✨
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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: MalluShroomer]
    #29167440 -

Let's read the last 20~30 pages of this thread, dear... Take that as friendly homework to give you a head start with troubleshooting :heart::heart:


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic]
    #29167445 -

Vermiculite has a neutral ph, so 7.  Coir is like 5 or 6.  You want something like 7.5-8.5

I imagine charcoal could work.  It might be a bit high, but you could cut it with coir to improve the moisture capacity too.

I did a lot of research on agaricus casings when I started growing pans.

Here are some of my favorite papers that go into different techniques folks use all over the world.  Peat certainly isn't the only option, and in many places folks still case with top soil.

This is probably the most useful for your project.
Peat alternative casing materials for the cultivation of Agaricus bisporus mushrooms – A systematic review

But there is a lot of excellent information in both of these.
Casing Materials and Techniques in Agaricus bisporus Cultivation
Revisiting the Casing Layer


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: MalluShroomer]
    #29167446 -

When you're done reading, however long it takes you (no worries), let me know what variety of pan cyan are you trying to grow? maybe another pan species?

You're using a tent which is basically the hardest to dial in while running a fogger and fan at the same time. The room RH doesn't mean much  if you're not getting a full cycle of evaporation, even if your trays were literally flooded/over saturated. I'd turn off the fan and fogger for a couple of days, get a fine mister and mist from above generously until the casing glistens, do it once in the morning and one more time before bedtime on day 2 (leave the tent partially open), repeat...you should see a more dense wave coming in (providing your trays had a successful cycle of evaporation).. IF not, i'd worry what's stewing underneath that surface.
Good rule of thumb? Pins take between 5 and 10 days (14, rarely) to show up.

ps,
Pictures would be very helpful.


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: MalluShroomer] * 1
    #29167447 -

MalluShroomer said:
Could a thick casing layer be an issue for pans? Mine is at most 6mm thick. Or could pH be a factor? My casing has a pH of around 9 max.



For Pan Cyans, most folks use a very thin casing, like less than a 1/4".  And yeah, 8 is a good number to shoot for.  8.5 is on the high end.  9 is too high.

You could probably get away with less rH in your tent depending on air currents.  One of my favorite growers runs his between 80 and 90, so I've been experimenting with that.  But, I think the casing is the issue.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (03/24/25 01:00 PM)

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