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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 8
    #29165335 -

Stagger's Bispora colonizing the casing nicely.

2 out of 9 working trays.



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:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 3
    #29165469 -

Hi,
unfortunately my attenpts to grow ttbvi are not successful and very frustrating.
I got spores of gordo, went into agar, from there to rye, from there to substrate. All worked very well. Unfortunately after casing nothing happened except hige overlay so I recased and finally got some fruits but they are completely crippled.
Any idea what might be the issue here?
I used manure coir verm gypsum and sterilized
The tent is at 24 degrees, rh 78-92, 3 mins dae every 10 mins. I am going tvrough distilled water like mad with tve fogger. The heat is supplid by a small electric radiator.
In my country it just gets a bit more nice but temperatures are still low so I have to heat quite a bit.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: franksterling] * 3
    #29165588 -

TTBVI will fruit without the casing. Could also be the field capacity/content of your substrate. I always go a bit drier than what I do for cubes since the fruiting bodies are so small compared to cubensis.

And I also use a very thin/almost patchy casing.  Doesn’t need to be thick by any means.


--------------------
Astra said:

“Peace River has a gentle personality, yet TTBVI hit me like strong LSD with a twist of medical grade meth. Not for the faint of heart.”

Team Panaeolus

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: TheAtlantean] * 2
    #29165636 -

I'll have pictures in a couple hours after I get home but I don't think my pan trays are fruiting just yet and it's been over a week. I do have some mycelium poking through the casing layer. Do you guys think it's worth it to put some Lids on top of the trays to increase the CO2 a bit?


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 5
    #29165648 -

May I post my fail of the day here?.....

bisporus:cookiemonster:


Those look great astra:cheers:I received that print from someone here couple years ago, not sure where it was originally sourced/located.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: franksterling] * 1
    #29165874 -

franksterling said:
Hi,
unfortunately my attenpts to grow ttbvi are not successful and very frustrating.
I got spores of gordo, went into agar, from there to rye, from there to substrate. All worked very well. Unfortunately after casing nothing happened except hige overlay so I recased and finally got some fruits but they are completely crippled.
Any idea what might be the issue here?
I used manure coir verm gypsum and sterilized
The tent is at 24 degrees, rh 78-92, 3 mins dae every 10 mins. I am going tvrough distilled water like mad with tve fogger. The heat is supplid by a small electric radiator.
In my country it just gets a bit more nice but temperatures are still low so I have to heat quite a bit.




Oh honey, I see you're using a tent and takes a lot of trial and error before you get everything dialed in. Best way to have a tent warmed is to have your grow room also warm as you would have you own bedroom. I don't really use humidity controllers, never had any love for inkbirds but if you do have a hygrometer, try not leaving it inside, it'll fry eventually. My current temps (in my grow room) are 20~21C, inside my JCM chambers 23~25C consistently and that's because i have the water heater set to 29C. Temp fluctuations will occur but not like jumping from 21C to 17C unless you're not heating your grow room 24-7 like I do.(Heat/AC split unit)

Here is the JCM write-up with lots of hidden easter eggs that might help you out with your current set up.

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26565367/page/1


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:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: stagger] * 3
    #29165882 -

stagger said:
May I post my fail of the day here?.....

bisporus:cookiemonster:


Those look great astra:cheers:I received that print from someone here couple years ago, not sure where it was originally sourced/located.



I had a million fails for every fruit, a genuinely good grower is never ashamed to admit failure when it happens. You're a magnificent grower and thank you for the bipora spores, regardless where they came from they're yours now, your bloodline. These 9 trays are looking delish to the point i'm about to eat 1 or 2, the mycelium smells like kingcrab yummm

:nicesmile::hug:


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:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 2
    #29166411 -

So I did end up with a couple baby pins in my first tray, but also the mean green :frown:

One thing that stood out to me was when I dumped my AIO jars out there were some small chunks that were lighter in colour on the outside and looked colonized yet darker like manure brown on the inside as if the chunks didn't colonize the whole way through.

I had three jars that I let colonize for an extra week and they had similar chunks inside.

I'm thinking of trying agar to grain, and mixing it with just coir and micronutrients once colonized.

Am I putting a similar amount into the water that I'm hydrating my coir with? 1 tbsp, or do I need to add more micronutrients or other fertilizers to compensate for the lack of manure?

Do I need to pasteurize the coir after hydrating it? I found out that my AIO ninja cooker reaches pasteurization temps pretty quickly if I use hot tap water, so it doesn't seem as daunting as before.

Any tips would help a lot!


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 4
    #29166519 -

In all my years growing pans, doing both pasteurization and sterilization of my substrate intermittently, i ended up settling for sterilization of both the substrate and casing. I don't remember seeing mold ever in any of my sterilized blocks, not even after 2 months dumped outside. With pasteurization, however, it was a hit or miss.
I love my homemade compost manure, i live for it. About the AIO or micro nutrients, i wouldn't know anything, my dear. I'm old school as fuck, unfortunately. I wish I knew more to help you but I recognize my own limits.

Blue taught me a whole universe of knowledge that i will (naturally) take with me to the grave but while i'm still here on earth, i'll do what i can to share the wisdom. :heart::heart:


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 3
    #29166545 -

Yesterday, I tried to make prints from TTBVI, but they left very faint prints. I chose the biggest and most open caps that had already started dropping spores. I made the 'foil tent' as mentioned in Bod's proper spore printing TEK and left it for 24h. The caps dried out and shrunk quickly. Is there a better way of printing pans?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 2
    #29166550 -

Thanks for the reply astra!

I think part of my problem is that my manure was rather wet. I keep it in a large tote since I live in a row house and don't really have a garden shed. When I bought it it was in our 'spring' and was still frozen.

It now has a thick muddy texture. I thought I broke up all the chunks when I made my AIO jars but I'm now thinking I missed some.

I'm going to leave it open in my basement to dry, but im guessing that will take a month or two. It's about that long until the stuff I can buy in the store doesn't come frozen as well.

I'll do some research into manureless pans, that or just manure water like baba does. Both should hopefully eliminate chunks from the equation.

I appreciate the tip on sterilization. It certainly seems easier.

Either way, I'm grateful to all the people in this thread and look at this as nothing but a hurdle to be overcome!


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: oktopus] * 1
    #29166586 -

oktopus said:
Yesterday, I tried to make prints from TTBVI, but they left very faint prints. I chose the biggest and most open caps that had already started dropping spores. I made the 'foil tent' as mentioned in Bod's proper spore printing TEK and left it for 24h. The caps dried out and shrunk quickly. Is there a better way of printing pans?




There is no proper way to take prints unless you keep an eye on these guys 24-7. They can double in size overnight and to make things more difficult, some variation in spore load will occur unfortunately. Sometimes the first flush isn't as good as the second one and so on. My first spore printing of MiB RS was very faint, almost invisible and it was embarrassing to me sending prints that were barely there on the alum. I'd say, don't settle for a one time spore printing, i went for 4 waves worth of prints and each time they got a lot darker. Make sure you gently mist them before choosing the caps and no, they don't need to be completely open.. in fact, the ones that are about to shoot their load, usually get a fine dark ring on the cap brim right before they jizz. The more you take prints, the more experience you gain and stay ahead of their game. Frankly, I've had worse looking prints, yours are pretty decent for a first time TTBVI spore printing. Give yourself some credit, my dear. This is only the beginning and you already have some spores, Well done! :heart::heart::hug:

ps,
1st wave printing vs 2nd and 3rd (notice the remarkable difference)



--------------------
:ancientaliens:

Edited by astra (03/23/25 09:07 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29166593 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
Thanks for the reply astra!

I think part of my problem is that my manure was rather wet. I keep it in a large tote since I live in a row house and don't really have a garden shed. When I bought it it was in our 'spring' and was still frozen.

It now has a thick muddy texture. I thought I broke up all the chunks when I made my AIO jars but I'm now thinking I missed some.

I'm going to leave it open in my basement to dry, but im guessing that will take a month or two. It's about that long until the stuff I can buy in the store doesn't come frozen as well.

I'll do some research into manureless pans, that or just manure water like baba does. Both should hopefully eliminate chunks from the equation.

I appreciate the tip on sterilization. It certainly seems easier.

Either way, I'm grateful to all the people in this thread and look at this as nothing but a hurdle to be overcome!



Never hesitate to ask when in doubt. I'm nowhere near perfect but i'm relentless and there is no shame in admitting when i'm wrong or have messed up a project. I keep a journal (paper kind complete with a pencil as in stationary like old people lol) with entries dating back to 2002 when i first started reading mycotopia (Shhh!) and several other books on the subject along with my autumn foraging/hunting in different places including Norway. That being said, i'm still learning and that what makes this craft always beautiful and interesting. Knowledge is a never ending journey :heart::heart::hug:


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:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 2
    #29166623 -

@Puff

My bagged manure was pretty wet from sitting outside and it was kinda of a pain to work with.  I ended up mixing it with verm until field capacity then sifting through a colander to remove the sticks and those gummy poo balls.  The result was grainy and crumbly kinda like pf tek.  A little on the dry side.

Play around with it, you'll get it.


--------------------
MUSHROOMS RULE

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Dala] * 2
    #29166626 -

Thank you for the suggestion dala! I actually have a giant bag of verm, I'll give that a shot!


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 2
    #29166896 -

I put the lid for my tray on inside the JCM and pins seemed to develop overnight. Unfortunately, I am seeing the early signs of trich as well. Now it's a race




--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 3
    #29166931 -

Testing Panaeolus bisporus (Coleville WA) and Panaeolus cyanescens (TT)BVI on Rye Gran and Flint Corn (Hopi Blue), with the addition of Hemp in different concentrations:

     
This is the Hemp I'm experimenting with.  I cant even call it pure hemp herd; unless we call it low quality hemp herd with lots of fines (herd, fiber, dust, seeds, etc.)

The jars pictured below were from T2, inoculated 3/3.  Lots of pictures below from 3/18 (15 days)

 
50% Rye 50% Hemp


25% Rye 75% Hemp

   
100% Hemp - I noticed that the colonized areas of hemp changed to a lighter color, probably because the culture takes water from it.  (wet hemp is darker, dry hemp is lighter)  Either that or enzymatic breakdown.  I didn't try very hard to get the 100% hemp to a good moisture content; It came out a bit wet (seen at the bottom of the jar).


Now for the corn:

This is the corn I'm working with.  Hopi Blue corn (Dent corn, or 'flour corn')
     
100% Corn

I decided to shake all the jars on 3/18; this is what the corn looked liked after shaking.


50% Corn 50% Hemp

All above photos were of P. bisporus
Below are photos of P. cyanescens taken on 3/18
 
50% Corn 50% Hemp

 
50% Rye 50% Hemp - Hemp has a surprisingly large water holding capacity.  Here you can see that the culture sucks so much water from the hemp, it even shrinks the hemp and pulls it back from the edge of the glass.  In the first photo you can even see wrinkles in the outer layer/skin of the mycelium as it has been pulled inward.


After the shake on 3/18, all jars recovered well.  This is what P. bisporus looked like on 3/22.
     

They are all nearly fully colonized; 97% colonized on average?, except for the jars of 100% Hemp; those are 100% colonized.  Jars of 100% corn seem to be more like 92-97% colonized, as they have less jump-off points after shaking.

Results:  Both Rye and Corn have no problem colonizing for me.  Full colonization achieved in around 3 weeks.  All mixtures of grains and Hemp work well, with the caveat that 100% Hemp is harder to break up when shaking jars (it stays in clumps more than with grains) and 100% Hemp may have a tendency to be too wet at the bottom of jars.  The addition of 25% grains worked well to help absorb excess moisture that would otherwise pool at the bottom of jars, and also helps make it easier to break up clumps when shaking jars.

Next Steps:  All of the mixtures of grain and hemp were colonized in 24oz wide mouth jars with no shoulder (pint-and-a-half), so they can slide out of the jar without being broken apart, and can be put in a planter pot and surrounded with potting soil.  The idea is similar to V.L.'s EF-tek, but this grain/hemp mix is only the 'nutritive core'; i would add the 'casing' when I put them in pots.  I will add different plants.

Question:  All of the grain-only jars are in quart jars, and I was thinking of spawning those to XLS bags of sterilized Hemp.  1 quart spawn to a 10-lb bag is my go-to method of expanding spawn, but would that be a little bit over-zealous for pans?  should I fill the bags with less hemp, or perhaps add 2 quarts of spawn per bag to speed up the process.  what would be a good ratio for fruiting in those bags?  I plan on leaving in a month or so, so I don't want to draw this out.  I told myself I wouldn't be fruiting indoors anymore, but i'm finding it hard to resist that temptation now.  I would very much side on the side of sterilized substrate and no casing layer, or a sterilized casing layer, as I don't trust my pasteurization.

Edited by Generic (03/03/26 01:16 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic] * 2
    #29166973 -

So I made a weird PF Tek related experiment that I got the proportions fucked up and put too little BRF. It was just BRF and coco coir with added liquid plant nutrients. I had misunderstood one of the experiments by someone else here, who I think did grains + coir and nutrients with success.

It's been two months to the day, and the first one is fully colonized.  These are Bisporus Washington. I haven't been worried about the bruising since that brown showing up on the plate was normal.

Side



Bottom


Top, which is a casing of pure coco coir without liquid nutrients that was PC.



This is the only one that seems ready. I think I'm going to give it a few days, then spawn, soak, and try to fruit it in a freezer bag? I also got some bowl caps for the kitchen that I think could make a humid area.

What would you do?


--------------------
I call them Huskies cause they Mush!


Huskies' Grimoire
The Official Wild Cubensis Thread
Easy Instant Pot Agar
Let's Talk Cowtek

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Generic] * 1
    #29166999 -

So if you wanted to do outdoor beds, I think one jar of spawn to one large bag would work well.

If you don't want to case, I've grown bisporus in my tent with just a coir and compost top layer with grass on it.  I'm sure they would appreciate something similar if you did them outside.

Also, great experiment!  I'm a big fan of hemp as well.  Much better moisture holding capacity than straw.  If I could source it cheaply here, I would use it for the majority of my grows I'm sure.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (03/23/25 06:17 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Huskies] * 1
    #29167006 -

I think either of those could work as a top for fruiting.  But the bag is probably easier to dial in since holes can be poked in it.  Kirking has had great success doing them in mono tubs though, so I think either could work.

I will be curious to see how the coir works as a casing.  I did fruit a batch without peat, but I also used grass (the bispo in my sig).  And I did mystery sa, which is closely related, with calcium supplemted coir to bump the pH up closer to 7.  It was a lot slower than the peat and the pinset not as great.  But I got enough off of a small tray to still fry my face multiple times if I wanted.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Shop: Sporeworks.EU Spores for European Microscopy   Mushroom-Hut Mono Tub Substrate   Original Sensible Seeds Autoflowering Cannabis Seeds   MagicBag.co All-In-One Bags That Don't Suck   Myyco.com Isolated Cubensis Liquid Culture For Sale   North Spore Boomr Bag


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