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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: koma23]
    #29133262 -

koma23 said:
So in my underslept and scatterbrained state I stung my finger, went through the glove under the skin, with a needle and then stupidly proceded to put that needle through a SHIP in to an LC.

The LC is done, right? Anybody gotten away with something like this myb?



May as well try to grow it out. Worst case you have to throw it away. Best case, you get another you!

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: QuantumZ00]
    #29133263 -

QuantumZ00 said:
koma23 said:
So in my underslept and scatterbrained state I stung my finger, went through the glove under the skin, with a needle and then stupidly proceded to put that needle through a SHIP in to an LC.

The LC is done, right? Anybody gotten away with something like this myb?



Yup. I wrote about this story when I first started this hobby. Basically, I accidentally stabbed myself with the syringe, and blood proceeded to fill up the entire glove. I pulled off the glove in horror and blood sprayed the entire SAB and all my jars. I then just said fuck it and quickly finished inoculation all the jars.

Still grew just fine, no outwardly noticeable contam. So it may still work! Just a toss of the dice, if you're a gambler have fun :p



Yeah, I had lot's of blood under my glove too. But you didn't use the syringe to draw up the LC? If you just sprayed the outside of your jars with blood, then I don't see why this would have been an issue ...

Edited by koma23 (02/21/25 08:31 AM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: mike-ologist] * 1
    #29133285 -

mike-ologist said:
Carnonos said:
I know what the difference between Albino and Leucistic are, but what makes something leucistic?  Is there some criteria that separates a true leucistic from a lighter than average pheno, or are they the same thing?



Leucistic fruits are all white, save for the gills and drop spores.

Albino fruits are all white including gills and don't drop spores.

Leucistic fruits will be evident as they will lack pigment altogether. Light colored fruits still have pigment.



Albinos can drop spores.  APEs don't because of the PE mutation.

That sad, clear spores are hard to see on basically everything.  But Avery's Albino, for example, can be printed.

And leucistic means less melanin, they can still have coloring.  Often in spores and gills but sometimes other places.

Caucasians are essentially leucistic compared to other apes.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29133293 -

Made some agar without realizing I had mostly ran out of my sauce containers that I use as plates.

I had 2 media bottles, only used one and a tiny fraction of the other. It's now sealed in the fridge.

Could I just re-pc that then use it for pours?


--------------------
I call them Huskies cause they Mush!


Huskies' Grimoire
The Official Wild Cubensis Thread
Easy Instant Pot Agar
Let's Talk Cowtek

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Peleus] * 1
    #29133295 -

Peleus said:
First ever plate, how does it look? It's a clone from my recent harvest.





Looks better than my first plate.  Don't sweat those two "satellite" growths, you'll end up taking a transfer of this to a new plate when myc gets to about 1/4" from the edge.

Nice work!

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Huskies] * 1
    #29133296 -

Huskies said:
Made some agar without realizing I had mostly ran out of my sauce containers that I use as plates.

I had 2 media bottles, only used one and a tiny fraction of the other. It's now sealed in the fridge.

Could I just re-pc that then use it for pours?



:bigyesnod:

Yessir.

Or since you already PCed it you can always microwave it or put it in a container of hot water to re liquify it.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Axman]
    #29133312 -

My coir surface conditions look a little dry but there's also so much condensation on the monotub sidewalls that it's dripping down the and water pools a little where the sidewall meets surface coir. Do I spray anyways and try to avoid spraying the sidewalls anymore? I've used paper towel to blot the pooling water, but that's not really something I'm interested in doing all the time... thoughts?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: cybork]
    #29133332 -

cybork said:
I have a few thoughts, possibly of help in your detective work:
-If it was in PC, then it wasn't PC-ed well. Maybe you meant cooking pan for PF TEK. Still, not cooked well :smile:.
-Maybe you mixed up the log of your jars, and this was one that was actually already longer elsewhere.
-You mentioned 2 days in the grow room: was it 2 days from the PC or pan? 2 days so much colonized with this contaminant seems like an extremely aggressive colonizing contaminant. And if it was, it was already contaminated before. Maybe you cooked at very low temp then?





I have a 23qt presto. Lol I understand the difference I would not tell you I put it in my PC if I put it in a pan and steamed it. This is like my 12th time to do pf. Never had any issues ever before. I mean obviously I've had some jars contaminate along the way but not like this straight out of the PC not inoculated.

Ran it in the PC at 17 PSI for 90 minutes. Should be sufficient enough for these guys.

This is why I am so so confused. Also the dry verm  is pretty fine. It is a bag of fine dry verm.  I've used for all my others as well. There are a few chunky pieces that you can see when it's super zoomed in. But for the most part it's very fine verm almost like tiny grains of sand.    I do have the super chunky big pieces of dry verm . But it don't use it. Just saying indef know the difference.


And no none of the jars were mixed up or done at a different time. All 12 of these jars were done at the same time all inoculated at the same time. 2 days after being pc'd. Except for the moldy jar. It  didn't get inoculated because of how it looked..


--------------------
:hippie::mushroom2:Take it easy. if it's easy. take it twice:mushroom2::mushroom2:
:sporedrop:The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery:sporedrop:

**A LINK TO EVERTHING**


Edited by callmehippie (02/21/25 09:57 AM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Pin]
    #29133335 -

Pin said:
My coir surface conditions look a little dry but there's also so much condensation on the monotub sidewalls that it's dripping down the and water pools a little where the sidewall meets surface coir. Do I spray anyways and try to avoid spraying the sidewalls anymore? I've used paper towel to blot the pooling water, but that's not really something I'm interested in doing all the time... thoughts?



The condensation on the tub walls are a result of internal air humidity and a differential of temperature outside to inside. Like a cold drink in a glass on a hot day but in reverse. Surface conditions come from proper coir hydration and fae regulation. You can mist it if you can't maintain proper surface conditions like in my links. But only fine mist from high above so it gently falls and collects as beads dont spray directly or it'll get matted and damaged.


--------------------

Links For Beginners And Beyond:mspoil:

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: rumfor69]
    #29133380 -

I can source vegetable compost from a neighborhood initiative. They have these different compost bins where the stuff is in multiple parts of compost process. I think they also measure the core temp to define the stage.

Anyone any idea which compost in what stage in the process is best to use for casing or something else?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: cybork] * 2
    #29133386 -

The last stage. It should be completely composted.

And generally folks don't use compost as casing.  It does work, but most folks will use peat because it is superior.

Compost is good for substrate though.  Especially for Pans etc.  Really not necessary for cubes, and probably not worth the effort tbh. But it does improve fruit morphology (bigger, meatier, etc.)


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: tree frog]
    #29133391 -

tree frog said:
The last stage. It should be completely composted.

And generally folks don't use compost as casing, it does work. But most folks will use peat because it is superior.

Compost is good for substrate though.  Especially for Pans etc.  Really not necessary for cubes, and probably not worth the effort tbh. But it does improve fruit morphology (bigger, meatier, etc.)



Great! Thanks.

Do you happen to have a good referral to page about substrate for pans with compost?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: cybork]
    #29133465 -

Going to be starting my journey into agar soon, but have also found some things I like about PF Tek.

My understanding is that most noobs end up doing PF because they start from MSS.  What's the recommended way to do PF if you're coming from agar?  I've seen mention of making your own LC/LI from agar or making your own MSS, but not sure what the most noob friendly approach would be.

:hmm:


--------------------
DON'T PANIC!

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: psilofreq] * 2
    #29133467 -

psilofreq said:
Going to be starting my journey into agar soon, but have also found some things I like about PF Tek.

My understanding is that most noobs end up doing PF because they start from MSS.  What's the recommended way to do PF if you're coming from agar?  I've seen mention of making your own LC/LI from agar or making your own MSS, but not sure what the most noob friendly approach would be.

:hmm:



Look into doing brf pucks it's like a combo of PF tek and agar, great way to learn.


--------------------

Links For Beginners And Beyond:mspoil:

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: rumfor69] * 1
    #29133472 -

just use them lil jars and this works really well
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28753321


--------------------
HUSTLER
How U Survive This Life Everyday Resourcefully
epic GT mono tub
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17277772

wbs tek
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/11525679
coir tek
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/11917410
results :thumbup:

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: tripdawg420]
    #29133486 -

I'm just not a fan of premix but yeah it's that simple. I've done the same thing with those jars and also use them for brf pucks. Dropping pucks in grains bags is great. Brf is awesome at invitro pinning and trapping bacteria so you can tranfer clean myce out of them. Agar or brf can be tossed into LC. I've also vac sealed colonized brf puck jars and put them in the fridge for long term storage.


--------------------

Links For Beginners And Beyond:mspoil:

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: rumfor69]
    #29133527 -

Sawdust spawn Question:
This is gonna be my first real try at using hwfp for spawn, and most of what I'm reading says to use grain spawn to inoculate the sawdust spawn.

My question is: is it feasible to go from agar straight to sawdust?


--------------------
Check out my wish list and let me know what you got! UPDATED: 2/22/25
Current wish list


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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: mike-ologist] * 1
    #29133534 -

I've tried this recently with agar and lc straight to woodchips. This is the best result from LC (53 days in, ovoideocystidiata). Agar was slightly better, grains I used for comparison have been spawned long ago.

Edit: shit forgot pic



--------------------
No nation, no border
Fight law and order


Species grown so far

Edited by Churpee Choozle (02/21/25 01:50 PM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: mike-ologist]
    #29133538 -

mike-ologist said:
Sawdust spawn Question:
This is gonna be my first real try at using hwfp for spawn, and most of what I'm reading says to use grain spawn to inoculate the sawdust spawn.

My question is: is it feasible to go from agar straight to sawdust?



Why do you want to use sawdust as spawn? What do you want then when you are going from spawn to substrate?

(and I don't want to say you shouldn't, but I don't understand why one would want that; can cubes get enough nutrients out of it, for example?)

Edited by cybork (02/21/25 02:03 PM)

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: cybork]
    #29133550 -

Wood loving species can better acclimate to the final substrate by being introduced to sawdust spawn prior to spawning it into supplemented sawdust sub.

It also dramatically increases surface area and Number of inoculated particles. I may just do some experiments this weekend!


--------------------
Check out my wish list and let me know what you got! UPDATED: 2/22/25
Current wish list


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