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Re: Spawn [Re: PissPanty]
    #29068093 -

For all the gourmet species that are commonly cultivated, grain spawn works great. Same process as for cubensis.

For shiitake, you need to incubate the bags for an extra 2-3 months, waiting for them to turn brown. Then put the bags in a cool garage overnight (or for a few nights), and then strip the bags and hose them off (I use a sink with a sprayer attachment). A few firm smacks at this stage can also encourage fruiting. Put them in a fruiting chamber, on a wire rack or elevated off the floor a bit. A monotub with big holes mostly covered by micropore tape, or with small EZ dial holes, works fine. I put two blocks per 66 qt tub. You'll need to use scissors or a knife to harvest (usually ready within a week in my experience).

Plug spawn is usually for growing directly on whole logs rather than in bags of sawdust (or fuel pellets).

Lion's mane and oysters want similar fruiting conditions - lots of fresh air and high humidity. Both want to grow on wood - not sure what you mean about modifying the lion's mane grow for a wood lover.

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Re: Spawn [Re: Phaethon]
    #29068140 -

Phaethon said:
For all the gourmet species that are commonly cultivated, grain spawn works great. Same process as for cubensis.

For shiitake, you need to incubate the bags for an extra 2-3 months, waiting for them to turn brown. Then put the bags in a cool garage overnight (or for a few nights), and then strip the bags and hose them off (I use a sink with a sprayer attachment). A few firm smacks at this stage can also encourage fruiting. Put them in a fruiting chamber, on a wire rack or elevated off the floor a bit. A monotub with big holes mostly covered by micropore tape, or with small EZ dial holes, works fine. I put two blocks per 66 qt tub. You'll need to use scissors or a knife to harvest (usually ready within a week in my experience).

Plug spawn is usually for growing directly on whole logs rather than in bags of sawdust (or fuel pellets).

Lion's mane and oysters want similar fruiting conditions - lots of fresh air and high humidity. Both want to grow on wood - not sure what you mean about modifying the lion's mane grow for a wood lover.




:heart::heart: Thank you.

I forgot oysters are wood lovers. Most of my time spent in this hobby the last few years has been cubes :laugh:

I’m shocked to hear that an EZ dial Mono will work to fruit a block of shiitake but that is music to my ears!

I have run across a few old teks but I am worried about trusting anything because (at least for cubensis) there is the well-known problem of outdated teks. Not sure if gourmet protocols have changed as much in the last 20 years as cubensis methods.

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Re: The Gourmet Cultivation Discussion Thread [Re: PissPanty]
    #29068160 -

[Fixing the subject]

Gourmet growing techniques are pretty well established - see e.g. Growing Gourmet & Medicinal Mushrooms by Paul Stamets. Though fruiting in tubs is not particularly common, it does work for shiitake and some other more CO2-tolerant species and varieties.

For substrate, you can even start with just wood pellets and boiling water - see Lipa tek. The best thing about that IMO is being able to inoculate in open air. But it requires a lot more spawn (about a pound per 4 lb of substrate) and the quality and yield are less than with supplemented, sterilized blocks.

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Re: Hickory Substrate [Re: Kloakk] * 1
    #29068163 -

Kloakk said:
spasm666 said:
Yes it's fruiting already. The plan is good. Just do it soon as your bags are already fruiting. Personally I would take all that visible growth inside the bag off and wait for new primordia, as it's already grown that much that it affects the outcome. But you can also slit the bag from where the growth is and continue those fruits, might get a bit deformed fruits though.



Crap, okay, so if I where to remove them, do I just put my hand inside the bag? Don't have a flow hood and my SAB is not high enough so would be doing it in open air. Thanks.

Edit: Yeah.... There where no chance of removing the growth and it was to many of them to make slits all over. What I did was  fold the bags and tape them and made slits where I want them to pin. At this point I am trying to see if I can get fruits so my FC is JCM's watertub without a heater and it's at 80% humidity. It's far from ideal, but it is what it is I guess :facepalm3:





Another question, the 2 other bags I have also have(really small) primordia, but they are not 100% colonized, what do I do?





Don't worry too much about the invitro pinning, they'll soon find out they have no space or oxygen to grow and will stall there under the plastic. And new pins will emerge from your slits. If you ever need to remove unwanted growth you can do it with your hand through the plastic, just rub/pull/scrape them from outside through the plastic so that they come off from the substrate, and you can leave them inside the bag. If that can't be done just leave them be, it's just a small % of yield loss.

Is there any sort of ventilation in your tub? Tubs are generally not good for oysters, but if you don't have any Fresh Air Exchange in that tub it's way worse than not good. You need to exchange the air in the tub many times every hour. Without FAE you will only grow weird looking stems with no caps. If there's any way you can maintain high humidity levels outside the tub, take them out for better results.

Those two bags I'd incubate until ready, but if they get heavy with pins (or you've already incubated them for very long and they don't seem to colonize more) put into fruiting.

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Re: Hickory Substrate [Re: spasm666] * 1
    #29068328 -

spasm666 said:
Don't worry too much about the invitro pinning, they'll soon find out they have no space or oxygen to grow and will stall there under the plastic. And new pins will emerge from your slits.




This is great news, I was thinking they might keep on trying and use a lot of energy doing so.

spasm666 said:
If you ever need to remove unwanted growth you can do it with your hand through the plastic, just rub/pull/scrape them from outside through the plastic so that they come off from the substrate, and you can leave them inside the bag. If that can't be done just leave them be, it's just a small % of yield loss.



That's neat, I would have guessed that whatever I did scrape off would rot in the bottom of the bag, that is why I ended up just leaving them as is, and as this is my first grow of any mushrooms, I am not concerned about yield at this point, just want a couple of fruits so that me and my wife can find out if this is a mushroom we like enough to grow it ourselves(can't buy it where we live).

spasm666 said:
Is there any sort of ventilation in your tub? Tubs are generally not good for oysters, but if you don't have any Fresh Air Exchange in that tub it's way worse than not good. You need to exchange the air in the tub many times every hour. Without FAE you will only grow weird looking stems with no caps. If there's any way you can maintain high humidity levels outside the tub, take them out for better results.



There are 2 big airstones at the bottom of the tub(in water), air is coming from a 2 outlet airpump that pushes 480L(510 quarts) of air every hour and there is about 2cm(0,6inch) opening between the tub and lid so some FAE must be happening right? I will keep an eye on it tho and if I see that they are looking thin and weird I'll try changing setup.. I know even mentioning youtube is like cursing in the church around here, but I saw a video from "Renegade Mushroom" where he is fruiting a blue oyster block in a tub laying on it's side and just misting it with okay results, I was kinda hoping that the JCM setup could do the same, at least  this one time so I could see if oysters is for me.



spasm666 said:
Those two bags I'd incubate until ready, but if they get heavy with pins (or you've already incubated them for very long and they don't seem to colonize more) put into fruiting



Will do, I did a test this first run of oyster bags and added a little different amount of water as I'm trying to dial in water/hwfp ratio with the one kind of hwfp I can get where I live, and both these bags was the bags that got the lowest amount of water. Might be too dry.. But they are also just 11 days in, I'll keep an eye on them.

And thank you so much, really appreciate it and learned a lot. :takingnotes:


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Spawn [Re: Kloakk] * 1
    #29068519 -

Grain spawn is done pretty much the same with any species. So yes shiitake, oysters and cubes will all do great on almost any grain. Dowels would be used if inoculating logs rather than sawdust.

Lions mane and oysters are both primary decomposers of dead or dying trees so they'll both do good on sawdust. Supplements like bran, extra grains or soy hulls are good choices.

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Re: Hickory Substrate [Re: Kloakk]
    #29069086 -

Kloakk said:
spasm666 said:
Don't worry too much about the invitro pinning, they'll soon find out they have no space or oxygen to grow and will stall there under the plastic. And new pins will emerge from your slits.




This is great news, I was thinking they might keep on trying and use a lot of energy doing so.

spasm666 said:
If you ever need to remove unwanted growth you can do it with your hand through the plastic, just rub/pull/scrape them from outside through the plastic so that they come off from the substrate, and you can leave them inside the bag. If that can't be done just leave them be, it's just a small % of yield loss.



That's neat, I would have guessed that whatever I did scrape off would rot in the bottom of the bag, that is why I ended up just leaving them as is, and as this is my first grow of any mushrooms, I am not concerned about yield at this point, just want a couple of fruits so that me and my wife can find out if this is a mushroom we like enough to grow it ourselves(can't buy it where we live).

spasm666 said:
Is there any sort of ventilation in your tub? Tubs are generally not good for oysters, but if you don't have any Fresh Air Exchange in that tub it's way worse than not good. You need to exchange the air in the tub many times every hour. Without FAE you will only grow weird looking stems with no caps. If there's any way you can maintain high humidity levels outside the tub, take them out for better results.



There are 2 big airstones at the bottom of the tub(in water), air is coming from a 2 outlet airpump that pushes 480L(510 quarts) of air every hour and there is about 2cm(0,6inch) opening between the tub and lid so some FAE must be happening right? I will keep an eye on it tho and if I see that they are looking thin and weird I'll try changing setup.. I know even mentioning youtube is like cursing in the church around here, but I saw a video from "Renegade Mushroom" where he is fruiting a blue oyster block in a tub laying on it's side and just misting it with okay results, I was kinda hoping that the JCM setup could do the same, at least  this one time so I could see if oysters is for me.



spasm666 said:
Those two bags I'd incubate until ready, but if they get heavy with pins (or you've already incubated them for very long and they don't seem to colonize more) put into fruiting



Will do, I did a test this first run of oyster bags and added a little different amount of water as I'm trying to dial in water/hwfp ratio with the one kind of hwfp I can get where I live, and both these bags was the bags that got the lowest amount of water. Might be too dry.. But they are also just 11 days in, I'll keep an eye on them.

And thank you so much, really appreciate it and learned a lot. :takingnotes:




The aborted pins will grow some more and use a bit energy but still quite a little, you will have enough yield for your goal.

Good that you have active fae in the tub, then it will be ok. Not ideal but will also work good enough for your goal. Remember though that the stems aren't as tender and soft as the caps, and you can always improve your fae to achieve shorter stems and more cap to enjoy it more.

I don't think Youtube is a curse word here. There is a lot of good information out there from reputable commercial growers (surely there is bad advice too).

Let us know how it turned out :smile:

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Re: Hickory Substrate [Re: spasm666]
    #29069162 -

spasm666 said:
The aborted pins will grow some more and use a bit energy but still quite a little, you will have enough yield for your goal.

Good that you have active fae in the tub, then it will be ok. Not ideal but will also work good enough for your goal. Remember though that the stems aren't as tender and soft as the caps, and you can always improve your fae to achieve shorter stems and more cap to enjoy it more.

I don't think Youtube is a curse word here. There is a lot of good information out there from reputable commercial growers (surely there is bad advice too).

Let us know how it turned out :smile:



Sounds good, thank you. And yeah I know it's not ideal at this point, but as long as I can get okay results this try run, cook and taste them then I could make a more educated decision about buying and setting up a martha tent.

This is only 30 hours after making a slit.


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Hickory Substrate [Re: Kloakk]
    #29071906 -

I messed up:facepalm3:

I had the lid resting on the tote latches, some time during the night the lid fell down and closed the tote. Result is this.


My question is, will it recover? If not, do I just remove the cluster, tape the slit, and make another one in a different place on the bag? I have 3 other bags and really not concerned, just want one healthy cluster of shrooms to figure out if I like oyster mushrooms and if I do, well then I will get a better setup.


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


Edited by Kloakk (12/30/24 03:36 AM)

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Re: Hickory Substrate [Re: Kloakk]
    #29071985 -

Kloakk said:
I messed up:facepalm3:

I had the lid resting on the tote latches, some time during the night the lid fell down and closed the tote. Result is this.


My question is, will it recover? If not, do I just remove the cluster, tape the slit, and make another one in a different place on the bag? I have 3 other bags and really not concerned, just want one healthy cluster of shrooms to figure out if I like oyster mushrooms and if I do, well then I will get a better setup.



They just needed some more FAE. That cluster won't grow more, so go ahead and pick them, plenty there for a taste test. Just make some slits where the new primordia begin to form, and aim for more fresh air. Oysters need more FAE than most any other mushroom.

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Re: Hickory Substrate [Re: bambus]
    #29071989 -

bambus said:
Kloakk said:
I messed up:facepalm3:

I had the lid resting on the tote latches, some time during the night the lid fell down and closed the tote. Result is this.


My question is, will it recover? If not, do I just remove the cluster, tape the slit, and make another one in a different place on the bag? I have 3 other bags and really not concerned, just want one healthy cluster of shrooms to figure out if I like oyster mushrooms and if I do, well then I will get a better setup.



They just needed some more FAE. That cluster won't grow more, so go ahead and pick them, plenty there for a taste test. Just make some slits where the new primordia begin to form, and aim for more fresh air. Oysters need more FAE than most any other mushroom.



Will do, thank you :rockon:


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Spawn [Re: bambus]
    #29071997 -

Hello All!

I'm new to gourmet mushrooms but have experience growing actives in PP5 Containers using V-Tek so I want to experiment a little with Lion's Mane and Oysters and have seen some great pictures on this site of both fruiting right out of the jars, which would be ideal for me. With this method, I've gotten the process down so that contamination is reduced to nearly zero, which is why I like it so much. I'm not that concerned, at least now, with achieving peak efficiency/yield. Anyway thanks in advance for any help with these questions...

- I have pretty much unlimited access to nearly free Rye Grass Seed and am wondering will Lion's Mane and/or Oysters grow and fruit off of that grain in the bottles if the fruiting conditions are managed well? Or is is it critical that a wood pellet and/or soy hull mix is in those jars? Is there maybe a flavor factor involved here as well in terms of what to grow off of.

- My plan is to grow out a bunch of small BRF pucks from liquid culture, pick the cleanest, healthiest and fastest growing ones and then do grain to grain transfer (RGS) into quart sized PP5 jars... fill them very near the top and then when fully colonized case with vermiculite or coir, move them to a high FAE humidified growing chamber. Does this sound like a plan that would work?

- From there, I'll clone the best ones that respond well to this growing method and just keep fine tuning from there.

- I've found, with actives, when fruiting from the jars off of straight grain, it's a huge help to bottom water them when pins start. Would this likely also be true with Lion's Mane and Oysters?

- Finally, is there a good tek that shows the best way to grow Lion's Mane and Oysters from bottles?

This picture pretty much represents the goal I'm visualizing... and this is a link to Violet's "V-Tek" in case anyone's interested. https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/21390984#21390984



--------------------
“Order is needed by the ignorant but it takes a genius to master chaos.”
― Einstein


Edited by KauaiOrca (12/30/24 08:15 AM)

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Re: Spawn [Re: KauaiOrca] * 1
    #29072414 -

Lion's mane, oysters, and most other cultivated gourmet and medicinal mushrooms are wood decomposers. You can try with just grass seed, but I wouldn't expect good results.

Bottle cultivation is not complicated - lots about it available with a simple Google search. See e.g. this article. You make a supplemented wood substrate (e.g. 80:20 fuel pellets:bran by weight, with 60% hydration), load it into jars or PP containers, bore ~1-inch holes in each to accept spawn, sterilize, cool, and inoculate in aseptic conditions (SAB or laminar sterile flow). Fruit in a tent or open air or tub depending on the species (you'll probably want open air or a humidified and ventilated tent with lion's mane and most oysters, which want high humidity and high FAE, far more than P. cubensis).

You can try substituting grass seed for bran for the supplementation. It may have a different C:N ratio than is ideal, but if it's basically free, it's worth a try.

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Re: Spawn [Re: Phaethon]
    #29072751 -

Phaethon said:
Lion's mane, oysters, and most other cultivated gourmet and medicinal mushrooms are wood decomposers. You can try with just grass seed, but I wouldn't expect good results.

Bottle cultivation is not complicated - lots about it available with a simple Google search. See e.g. this article. You make a supplemented wood substrate (e.g. 80:20 fuel pellets:bran by weight, with 60% hydration), load it into jars or PP containers, bore ~1-inch holes in each to accept spawn, sterilize, cool, and inoculate in aseptic conditions (SAB or laminar sterile flow). Fruit in a tent or open air or tub depending on the species (you'll probably want open air or a humidified and ventilated tent with lion's mane and most oysters, which want high humidity and high FAE, far more than P. cubensis).

You can try substituting grass seed for bran for the supplementation. It may have a different C:N ratio than is ideal, but if it's basically free, it's worth a try.



Thanks for that!

I've got a small bag and a quart mason jar of RGS I inoculated with Lion's Mane LC about a week ago and I thought nothing was happening but today it seems both have got a very fine white hazy coating that at first I thought was maybe a grey mold of some sort but after looking at pictures of other colonizing jars, seems kinda normal as it's colonizing.  Very different looking than actives or my Oysters jars. Hopefully, in a few more days it will appear more white.

Then plan to add 50/50 mix to the bag with colonized grain and mix it real good and then when ready, fruit out of the bag.  Just for the hell of it, when the RGS jar looks ready, I'm going to case it with verm-coir and try to fruit out of the top of the jar right off the RGS and see if it works.

I used a little of the vendor syringe of Lion's Mane LC to start a bigger batch of LC and it seems to be coming along really well too so... so far so good.


--------------------
“Order is needed by the ignorant but it takes a genius to master chaos.”
― Einstein


Edited by KauaiOrca (12/30/24 10:53 PM)

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Re: Spawn [Re: KauaiOrca] * 6
    #29075181 -

These Chestnut mushrooms are some of most beautiful I have ever grown


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Re: Spawn [Re: mycosispeon]
    #29075285 -

Looking great. What's your pinning strategy?

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Re: Spawn [Re: deadmandave]
    #29076051 -

deadmandave said:
Looking great. What's your pinning strategy?



sorry, pinning strategy? Should I be thinning out the clusters?

Edited by mycosispeon (01/03/25 02:52 PM)

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Re: Spawn [Re: mycosispeon]
    #29077400 -

no he meant conditions..

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Re: Spawn [Re: the man]
    #29077654 -

First attempt at growing King Oysters but cant get them to pin/fruit.
I have read that a cold shock + good FAE are required so I set some bags in the fridge (40F) for 12hrs and some outside (40-50F) for 12 hours yet nothing has pinned in 2 months. I am using bags and have cut a different kind of slit/cut in every batch with no results. From 0% FAE to 100% FAE. I have cold shocked some bags more than once and waited a week and unfortunately nothing has been working.
Other species like Lion's Mane and cubes grow great so I am guessing this is an ambient temperature problem but that is my uneducated guess.

Any help or recommendations on inducing pinning/fruiting would be much appreciated. 

My tent Setup:
-65-70F degree year round temp
-85%+ humidity
-12/12 light cycle
-Lipa TEK= HWFP+Gypsum Substrate
-Tent Fan is Negative pressure (exhaust blows outdoors)
-Fan is set auto 10 min off W/ 1m min on, on repeat.

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Re: Spawn [Re: pinned] * 1
    #29077671 -

the man said:
no he meant conditions..




Yes. I was curious what you did mycosispeon, to get such a nice pinset. No need to thin. Hope it's growing along well.

Pinned, it sounds like you're doing it right, timing is good and temps are reasonable.. Could be a bunk culture. Has it worked in the past? Basic strategy of to wait for full colonization and then just cut a small opening in the bag, pins will form on the surface and then introduce to fruiting. Follow hummus's advice: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27187063#27187063

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