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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27869104 -

Nothing to add just here to learn!!


--------------------

šŸ…ƒ šŸ„“ šŸ„° šŸ„¼    šŸ„² šŸ„» šŸ„ø šŸ„½ šŸ„¶ šŸ…† šŸ… šŸ„° šŸ„æ
TEAM SPREAD THE LOVE!
Smellyhobbit said:
Embarrassment and bashfulness are leeches on your ability to learn.

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: HILLBILLY OUTLAW]
    #27870165 -

This was a super interesting read so far! Have nothing to ask or add, but I’m really interested in learning more about genetics and breeding mushrooms, so I’m definitely keeping an eye on this thread.

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27871034 -

Great thread! So many questions! For the moment, here are a few:

You use F* a few times. Are you referring to fruit generations?

Also, re:

Muad.Dweeb said:
...
Back to RustyWhyte, Pasty put spores from two varieties with distinct traits into the same agar plate, and mixed them. This is arguably the simplest way currently known to cross tetrad ...



Makes sense to me and is probably an easy start. That said, what approach of crossing have you've been using? I've been considering working a successive dilution method to isolate monokaryons from prints. From there I'd go to plates, select isolates, transfer to clean plates for compatibility (mating) testing, then moving on to normal spawn->fruiting.

Lastly (for now), where do you see this going as a community effort?

Edited by lothar48 (07/20/22 11:00 PM)

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: lothar48] * 1
    #27872740 -

lothar48 said:
Great thread! So many questions! For the moment, here are a few:

You use F* a few times. Are you referring to fruit generations?




Yep. F stands for Filial.

Quote:
Makes sense to me and is probably an easy start. That said, what approach of crossing have you've been using? I've been considering working a successive dilution method to isolate monokaryons from prints. From there I'd go to plates, select isolates, transfer to clean plates for compatibility (mating) testing, then moving on to normal spawn->fruiting.



The very first experiments I carried out were multispore crosses with Rustywhyte and Golden Halo. I like the method, but I also like the greater certainty that comes with serial dilutions or streaking methods to obtain monokaryons. I've obtained several monokaryons with both dilutions and streaking separately, performed di-mon (Buller phenomenon) and mon-mon matings. What I don't like about using monokaryons is that you are kind of adding a layer of blindness to the process, in that you don't know what traits you're going to get from that mon until you've fruited it as a paired dikaryon, and then, depending on the pairing, maybe not until the F2 still. You get at least several permutations per grow with multispore crossing, but you are kind of blind to traits until the F2 in a lot of casses.

There are also methods for obtaining monokaryotic cultures (neohaplonts) from dikaryons, using various chemicals (typically bile cholates), or microsurgery (not practical for hobbyists); there are a few patents for procedures that I'm in the process of trying to replicate. The specific benefit from dedikaryotizing a culture is you are starting from a genome with known traits, not permutations of those traits.

Quote:
Lastly (for now), where do you see this going as a community effort?



Well, as I stated, I think that these discussions are needed. 

1) there are a ton of people with the baseline skill needed that want to do this already, and finding the information succinctly in the OMC can be a huge chore.

2) a lot of people doing this already aren't accomplishing their goals. You can spend 5 minutes in mycogroups on any social media and see it first hand. Some of these people just need guidance, others are actually being predatory and putting out new "crosses" and "isolates" seemingly by the hour for gullible noobs. The answer to both is education, IMO.

Most of the means to create a cross are incredibly easy and accessible to anyone who can produce clean spawn and pull off fruiting decently. Every viable method has it's own pros and cons, but they generally are super easy with no need for special chems or equipment. The real work all takes place AFTER the cross to achieve, first, the desired combination of traits, then producing consistency of the trait (s). It takes a lot of work on the other side of the actual pairing. and depending on the choices you make, it can be as successful as APE or RW, or turn out like PE6 and stabilized to the wrong traits.

I guess where I *hope* this goes, is that for those who wish to undertake breeding, there is a comprehensive, digestible knowledge of the biology, the theory, and the practice of fungal sexuality and selective breeding (I'm focusing strictly on cubes, but most of it is broadly applicable).


--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: lothar48] * 2
    #27872796 -

Here are some of the streaking methods I've used.

Green = First streak
Blue = Second
Red = Third
Purple = Fourth

This is a classic technique for isolating single cell colonies from yeast and bacteria:



This one I learned from a guy named Sidnee. The green is applied to a sterile drop of water on the agar to help smear the spores, and the zig zag should be wide, tight, and non-overlapping:



This one I use for MS crossing, for streaking dilutions, and general spore germination. If you use a minimal amount of spore with this, it's possible to catch monokaryons as they germinate sometimes:



--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27872922 -

Thanks for the reply.

Quote:
What I don't like about using monokaryons is that you are kind of adding a layer of blindness to the process, in that you don't know what traits you're going to get from that mon until you've fruited it as a paired dikaryon...



The thing I intended on looking for with monocaryon isolation is finding the ones that excel at growth relative to the others. From there bring to fruit and then isolate the fruit traits you want. Maybe the speed of growth at that stage is not much of a factor that's worth looking for but I don't know.

That said, it seems reasonable for those that are new to breeding to just mix spores from different variants to give them a chance to mate and see what you get at F1, go from there. Start on the easier hills so to speak.


Quote:
... I think that these discussions are needed. 

1) there are a ton of people with the baseline skill needed that want to do this already, and finding the information succinctly in the OMC can be a huge chore.




I'm interested in wherever this might go and appreciate your call out for the effort. I come with the caveat that I'm just entering the field but I do have a reasonably useful background in science and engineering and I'm a quick study.

Quote:
2) a lot of people doing this already aren't accomplishing their goals. You can spend 5 minutes in mycogroups on any social media and see it first hand. Some of these people just need guidance, others are actually being predatory and putting out new "crosses" and "isolates" seemingly by the hour for gullible noobs. The answer to both is education, IMO.




Agreed. Helping people develop a finely tuned filter in light of all of the bs information out there on literally any subject is a "good thing" for all of us.

Quote:
Most of the means to create a cross are incredibly easy and accessible to anyone who can produce clean spawn and pull off fruiting decently. Every viable method has it's own pros and cons, but they generally are super easy with no need for special chems or equipment. The real work all takes place AFTER the cross to achieve, first, the desired combination of traits, then producing consistency of the trait (s). It takes a lot of work on the other side of the actual pairing. and depending on the choices you make, it can be as successful as APE or RW, or turn out like PE6 and stabilized to the wrong traits.



So it seems a lot of the goal would be to help others develop a "skill stack" conducive to success. I think some (but not all) of this can be as simple as following a handful of teks. I'd guess that identifying and selecting for traits is something that really just needs to come with experience (observation + persistence + time). Gaining that experience will be faster with guiding hands.

Quote:
I guess where I *hope* this goes, is that for those who wish to undertake breeding, there is a comprehensive, digestible knowledge of the biology, the theory, and the practice of fungal sexuality and selective breeding (I'm focusing strictly on cubes, but most of it is broadly applicable).



I've seen some "follow along" threads. Maybe that would be a good place to start. I've already decided to start my entry into breeding and I'm happy to jump on the train. Seems to me your initiative will be a good thing to help me and others develop these skills.

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27873030 -

Muad.Dweeb said:
Here are some of the streaking methods I've used.





Thanks for sharing. The first I am familiar with. The next two are new to me although I did something similar to #2 with spore syringes recently.

I suspect the likelihood of isolating a monokaryon in that case is low if not using serial dilution. Do you agree?

One approach I had though of is to mix prints from different fruits, including simply laying caps of from different fruits over the same foil. From there go plates->spawn->fruit, select, etc. Instead of plates you could go with PF tek, and select fruits by cake for continuation. Yes, this is all more of a lottery but it may be a viable method of quick-starting a breeding process for the uninitiated. Viable?

One thing I've been mulling over is a rapid, small scale fruiting process such that a) you're not breeding to waste (product you can't use), and b) keeps things reasonably space constrained. How do you approach the many F iterations?

Edited by lothar48 (07/22/22 03:19 PM)

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: lothar48] * 1
    #27873090 -

lothar48 said:
One thing I've been mulling over is a rapid, small scale fruiting process such that a) you're not breeding to waste (product you can't use), and b) keeps things reasonably space constrained. How do you approach the many F iterations?



You might want to check this out
Pf cakes in a sandwich bag Using Ziplocs (Ziplocks) as Fruiting Chambers

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Fried_Sushi] * 1
    #27875262 -

Fried_Sushi said:
lothar48 said:
One thing I've been mulling over is a rapid, small scale fruiting process such that a) you're not breeding to waste (product you can't use), and b) keeps things reasonably space constrained. How do you approach the many F iterations?



You might want to check this out
Pf cakes in a sandwich bag Using Ziplocs (Ziplocks) as Fruiting Chambers



I have the same thinking. Last year I started using what I think is a killer combo, though I'm still working on getting the FAE just right. I use the Betty Crocker Easy Seal pint cups and Surefresh 1L cups that I find at a local dollar store. The 1L fits right over the threaded lip of the pint cup. I'm using a modified PF Tek substrate, which is basically just BRF and CV sub mixed 1:3. I cut crockpot liners down and use them as liners, otherwise it's terribly difficult to avoid side pinning. I modified the lids with filter patches and omit the dry verm layer, since I'm working in front of an FFU. It is a huge space saver, but more work than doing bulk. I like it for the consistency of conditions and the size, though.


[PFRed.CL1.MS2]

Also, a bit of philosophy I can't really substantiate with science: I feel that, whether we are conscious of it or not, every cultivation choice we make individually has the potential to be a selective pressure. So, things like the size of chamber/medium you use, the condition of the substrate, the degree (or lack) of competition, etc... all put certain pressures on a multispore population that will define what constitutes "fitness," and influence what you are likely to see in a MS grow. A sort of artificial evolutionary bottleneck.

I think that small substrates are one of those pressures that selects for specific metabolic profiles that either acquire real estate faster, or more efficiently utilize available resources. I'll use larger containers when I'm running isolates, to see how they utilize larger resources. But for running through phenotypes, I'd rather do 10-20 of these pint cups than 1-2 32 qt tubs.


--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb] * 2
    #27875352 -

I want to talk today about di-mon mating, aka the Buller Phenomenon.

Prerequisites:

You need a monokaryon, derived from any of the usual methods.

You need a clone.


So, the usual methods are serial dilution and plate streaking. These procedures are pretty straight forward. For the serial dilution, you need something small you can sterilize, like 15 mL centrifuge tubes; you need water, distilled and sterilized; you need some clean syringes or measuring pipettes. And agar. Of course, agar.

Everything sterilized, you add your spore sample (say, a 1 cm square) to the first tube, and 10 mL of water and put the cap on. Now add 9 mL each to tubes for dilutions you want to make.

Shake the tube like the DT's- a back massager can help break up the spores. The goal is to make sure no spores are clumped. You cannot over-do agitating the tube, and it's really, REALLY frustrating when you think you have a monokaryon, but it was two spores stuck together that germinated at different times. A surfactant like TWEEN can help unclump and prevent clumping of your sample.

I use 1ml or 3 mL syringes in this set up. Draw up 1 mL of the well-agitated 10 mL solution, and add it to a tube with 9 mL of water. Cap it. Label it "1/10". Agitate thoroughly again.

With a fresh syringe, draw up 1 mL of the well-agitated 1/10 dilution, and add it to another 9 mL tube. Label it "1/100". Etc..."1/1000", "1/10,000"...

Without a microscope and a means of spore counting, you'll have to ball-park and play around to get the ideal dilution of your sample, so do a single drop streak on at least 1 plate per dilution to calibrate. You're looking for 1-5 colonies germinating per plate. Knowing what dilution to use, you can then start making germination plates to harvest your monokaryons from.

You can try to "skip" the dilution route with careful control of how much spore you pick up and a streak method alone. Things that I have found help are using very light prints (1-2 hours) and a thin loop, cooling my sterilized loop in the agar and literally just dabbing the print. you can get an incredibly small sample with some practice, which makes finding monokaryons right off the bat possible.

To acquire the clone... clone it, then clean it up. Moving along...


*    *    *    *    *

I like stark contrast. Call me extra, IDEK. But the strong contrast has a practical application here. It, again, is best to view this for yourself with a Clone and Monokaryon from strikingly different varieties.

Stick them together on the same growing medium, like agar. When I'm doing di-mon breeding, I make a plate with one sample of each about 2 cm apart and just let them grow. Eventually, it will pin. Then I clone a pin from the (labled) monokaryon side and grow it out to see what it looks like. Of course, once you have the clean cultures of both, you can put them together to fruit on any media, like grains to bulk. But agar is most convenient IMO.

This is something anyone can try out, no need for a microscope even. It certainly helps to reassure by looking at the hyphae under a scope to be sure you have a monokaryon (monokaryons don't have "clamps" between the cells), but a monokaryon will not fruit on its own. So, no matter how long you leave your harvested "monos" out on the shelf, you shouldn't see knots or pins. You can run a control plate of just the monokaryon side by side with the di-mon plate and use it as confirmation IF pins appear on the mon-side of the di-mon plate, but not the mon plate.

You will also notice there is a distinct morphological change to the monokaryotic mycelium once it is impregnated with a doner nucleus. It becomes more robust and dense. Monokaryons are often whispy, cotton-mold-looking sadbois.


[Koh Samui Squat clone x Leucistic India Orissa Mk1 and Mk2]

Why does this work?

When genetically distinct dikaryons are close to each other, they exchange pheromones through excretion. This will tend to form an "inhibitory zone" between two dikaryons (what we call sectoring), but monokaryons can detect a potential mate and both will continue growing into the other. Plasma is exchanged when they physically touch and attempt a fusion. If the mating factors are compatible, the dikaryon donates one of its nuclei to the monokaryon and it becomes a "hybrid" of that dikaryon and the monokaryon. In some species, there is a nuclear preference, and only one nuclei will be donated, even through repeat trials. I don't know if such data is out there for cubes, but in theory, this arrangement could produce two distinct "hybrid" genotypes.


[Allowing the plate to pin]

Why use this approach?

For one, it's a classic. It is part of the "parasexual" behavior that makes fungi so fascinating, and watching it in real time is a special feeling that doesn't lend itself to description well.

For another, you know 2/3rds of the genetic material at play, at least casually, from the start. It makes viewing the way traits blend, dominate and obfuscate very dramatic. There are also methods for splitting dikaryons into monokaryons, but this is sort of a short cut around that.


[Squat pins in the center strip; Beefy, not-squats, not-orissa in the monokaryon sides]

And because it's fucking cool. Do it.

Edited by Muad.Dweeb (08/15/22 07:45 AM)

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb] * 1
    #27875375 -

The result of that pairing:

I called the project KOI, to include the pedigree (K)S and (O)rissa (I)ndia. I took clones from 4 iterations and have been passively exploring the F2 traits. I haven't found anything worth pursuing in the F2 yet, but this is KOI#4 (F1):



--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27875378 -

Muad.Dweeb said:
I want to talk today about di-mon mating, aka the Buller Phenomenon.

Prerequisites:

You need a monokaryon, derived from any of the usual methods.

You need a clone.


So, the usual methods are serial dilution and plate streaking. These procedures are pretty straight forward. For the serial dilution, you need something small you can sterilize, like a 15 mL centrifuge tube; you need water, distilled and sterilized; you need some clean syringes or measuring pipettes. And agar. Of course, agar.

Everything sterilized, you add your spore sample (say, a 1 cm square) to the first tube, and 10 mL of water and put the cap on. Now add 9 mL each to tubes for dilutions you want to make.

Shake the like the DT's- a back massager can help break up the spores. The goal is to make sure no spores are clumped. You cannot over-do agitating the tube, and it's really, REALLY frustrating when you think you have a monokaryon, but it was two spores stuck together that germinated at different times.

I use 3 mL syringes in this set up. Draw up 1 mL of the well-agitated 10 mL solution, and add it to a tube with 9 mL of water. Cap it. Label it "1/10". Agitate thoroughly again.

With a fresh syringe, draw up 1 mL of the well-agitated 1/10 dilution, and add it to another 9 mL tube. Label it "1/100". Etc..."1/1000", "1/10,000"...

Without a microscope and a means of spore counting, you'll have to ball-park and play around to get the ideal dilution of your sample, so do a single drop streak on at least 1 plate per dilution to calibrate. You're looking for 1-5 colonies germinating per plate. Knowing what dilution to use, you can then start making germination plates to harvest your monokaryons from.

You can try to "skip" the dilution route with careful control of how much spore you pick up and a streak method alone. Things that I have found help are using very light prints (1-2 hours) and a thin loop, cooling my sterilized loop in the agar and literally just dabbing the print. you can get an incredibly small sample with some practice, which makes finding monokaryons right off the bat possible.

To acquire the clone... clone it, then clean it up. Moving along...


*    *    *    *    *

I like stark contrast. Call me extra, IDEK. But the strong contrast has a practical application here. It, again, is best to view this for yourself with a Clone and Monokaryon from strikingly different varieties.

Stick them together on the same growing medium, like agar. When I'm doing di-mon breeding, I make a plate with one sample of each about 2 cm apart and just let them grow. Eventually, it will pin. Then I clone a pin from the (labled) monokaryon side and grow it out to see what it looks like. Of course, once you have the clean cultures of both, you can put them together to fruit on any media, like grains to bulk. But agar is most convenient IMO.

This is something anyone can try out, no need for a microscope even. It certainly helps to reassure by looking at the hyphae under a scope to be sure you have a monokaryon (monokaryons don't have "clamps" between the cells), but a monokaryon will not fruit on its own. So, no matter how long you leave your harvested "monos" out on the shelf, you shouldn't see knots or pins. You can run a control plate of just the monokaryon side by side with the di-mon plate and use it as confirmation IF pins appear on the mon-side of the di-mon plate, but not the mon plate.

You will also notice there is a distinct morphological change to the monokaryotic mycelium once it is impregnated with a doner nucleus. It becomes more robust and dense. Monokaryons are often whispy, cotton-mold-looking sadbois.


[Koh Samui Squat clone x Leucistic India Orissa Mk1 and Mk2]

Why does this work?

When genetically distinct dikaryons are close to each other, they exchange pheromones through excretion. This will tend to form an "inhibitory zone" between two dikaryons (what we call sectoring), but monokaryons can detect a potential mate and both will continue growing into the other. Plasma is exchanged when they physically touch and attempt a fusion. If the mating factors are compatible, the dikaryon donates one of its nuclei to the monokaryon and it becomes a "hybrid" of that dikaryon and the monokaryon. In some species, there is a nuclear preference, and only one nuclei will be donated, even through repeat trials. I don't know if such data is out there for cubes, but in theory, this arrangement could produce two distinct "hybrid" genotypes.


[Allowing the plate to pin]

Why use this approach?

For one, it's a classic. It is part of the "parasexual" behavior that makes fungi so fascinating, and watching it in real time is a special feeling that doesn't lend itself to description well.

For another, you know 2/3rds of the genetic material at play, at least casually, from the start. It makes viewing the way traits blend, dominate and obfuscate very dramatic. There are also methods for splitting dikaryons into monokaryons, but this is sort of a short cut around that.


[Squat pins in the center strip; Beefy, not-squats, not-orissa in the monokaryon sides]

And because it's fucking cool. Do it.



That's pretty interesting, great info thanks for sharing it. I'm new to this so I'm just learning about how mono and dikaryons interact. I am very interested in trying this out in time. Those plates look amazing too, they clearly show what you're explaining.


--------------------


****FUGGIN' FROGZ****

Trade List

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27876223 -

Muad.Dweeb said:So, ask me anything.



Don't mind I do. Thanks. And thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Quote:
Muad.Dweeb said:
I can't be the only one to have noticed that some of these varieties have been inbred consistently for decades, right? Lots of unusual "mutations" lately, right?




Oh, I notice! Imagine that. Me, a noob that just started reading on shroom cultivation a month ago.

Wouldn't this be due to taking clones from clones from clones through multi-generations? One of the first things I noticed in shroom cultivation culture is the fashionable attitude that working with spores is so distasteful, due to the "crapshoot" of phenotypes and so on. Many say that spores don't germinate well on agar then go on to group shame people for germinating in liquid culture. My point is that there is a big groupthink push toward cloning. And my first thought in reaction is, "Isn't this a form of inbreeding to cause undesirable mutations?" I notice there seems to be a lot of blobs among albinos.

Are not albinos undesirable mutations? Aparantly not when the potency is high. I think they are ugly and I gravitate toward the pigmented. Although I am going to get a couple of TAT genotypes, but I like the pigmented MVP best of the bunch.

And the sterility factor! Is the high potency of PE varieties a result of energy not focused on reproduction?


Muad.Dweeb said:
And then we have, of course, Enigma. The ultimate sign to some people that the genes have degraded so much that it can't produce spore bearing structures (I dub these blobs "pseudocarps"). To others, Enigma is a mysterious, miracle mutation. I claim it is neither



Yes Enigma, an offshoot of Tidal Wave. Tidal Wave was the first species I decided to order. My understanding is that it (Tidal Wave) is unstable because it was put to market at F2-F3 or something and is prone to blobs and varied pheno characteristics.

So if I want to stabalize my Tidal Wave and carry it forward for my personal grows, I should grow from the favored spores 3 or 4 more generations, correct? My instincts tell me this should be done from a mix between 2 different caps since spores from a single cap is a form of inbreeding; is this correct?


Muad.Dweeb said:
I have the same thinking. Last year I started using what I think is a killer combo, though I'm still working on getting the FAE just right. I use the Betty Crocker Easy Seal pint cups and Surefresh 1L cups that I find at a local dollar store. The 1L fits right over the threaded lip of the pint cup. I'm using a modified PF Tek substrate, which is basically just BRF and CV sub mixed 1:3. I cut crockpot liners down and use them as liners, otherwise it's terribly difficult to avoid side pinning. I modified the lids with filter patches and omit the dry verm layer, since I'm working in front of an FFU. It is a huge space saver, but more work than doing bulk. I like it for the consistency of conditions and the size, though.


[PFRed.CL1.MS2]



Thanks for sharing these details! I'm developing my own method/TEK that considers my environmental restrictions/challenges, small personal yield needs, cultivation skills, supplies already on hand, and instincts. I'm leaning to modified PF Tek substrate also, and top fruiting from the jars. My instincts are screaming that they would enjoy some ground rye grass seed flour with that brf, like 1:3 by weight for the rgsf:brf combo. I'm going to try it anyway.


Muad.Dweeb said:
Also, a bit of philosophy I can't really substantiate with science: I feel that, whether we are conscious of it or not, every cultivation choice we make individually has the potential to be a selective pressure. So, things like the size of chamber/medium you use, the condition of the substrate, the degree (or lack) of competition, etc... all put certain pressures on a multispore population that will define what constitutes "fitness," and influence what you are likely to see in a MS grow. A sort of artificial evolutionary bottleneck.

I think that small substrates are one of those pressures that selects for specific metabolic profiles that either acquire real estate faster, or more efficiently utilize available resources. I'll use larger containers when I'm running isolates, to see how they utilize larger resources. But for running through phenotypes, I'd rather do 10-20 of these pint cups than 1-2 32 qt tubs.



I agree with your philosophy. I believe the mycelium thinks, makes decisions, and has a consciousness and that we are in a symbiotic relationship with it. And we should not only use it for it's precious properties and benefits to us, we should be respectful and nice to it and also feed it what makes it happy.

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Fried_Sushi] * 1
    #27876485 -

Fried_Sushi said:
Oh, I notice! Imagine that. Me, a noob that just started reading on shroom cultivation a month ago.

Wouldn't this be due to taking clones from clones from clones through multi-generations? One of the first things I noticed in shroom cultivation culture is the fashionable attitude that working with spores is so distasteful, due to the "crapshoot" of phenotypes and so on. Many say that spores don't germinate well on agar then go on to group shame people for germinating in liquid culture. My point is that there is a big groupthink push toward cloning. And my first thought in reaction is, "Isn't this a form of inbreeding to cause undesirable mutations?" I notice there seems to be a lot of blobs among albinos.



So, what I think you are talking about here is something along the lines of senescence or genetic drift. I don't think that is something we really have to worry about. When you clone a clone, you aren't changing anything, so there isn't any inbreeding going on. I know some people who have had cultures in serial transfers more than 50 transfers. I know some others that clone clones regularly. But cloning clones isn't really a thing that is promoted by experienced cultivators.

Cloning itself, however, is a very important thing. If you are growing for yield, and some people are, or just for maximum efficiency so you can grow less frequently, running clones is definitely better than a bunch of multispore grows. It's also important for testing a culture for consistent expression (phenotype) in isolation, because competitive pressures can skew that expression. That's the basic why for using clones.

However, Cloning is not inbreeding. Breeding requires the production of basidia and spores to rearrange the genetic information. Cloning just copies, like rooting a cutting of a plant.

Spores to LC is an outdated tek, though. The variability of cleanliness of spore samples makes it a pretty unreliable route. Much better, IMO, is just make yourself a spore syringe from a really clean grow and wait a week. The spores will germinate at room temperature within a week. Even at 40 F, in the fridge, they'll germinate within 45 days or so. They won't get to develop much like with an LC, but neither will bacteria, and they'll have a jump start once they hit a nutritive medium.

As to cloning causing mutations, it doesn't really. Cultures can experience a LOT of issues that get lumped into "senescence" that aren't, actually. Certain bacterial and fungal infections can permanently damage the DNA, or become enmeshed with the mycelium at the cellular level; chemicals, UV, ozone can all cause genetic or epigenetic mutations; there are mycoparasites and viruses that infect mushrooms and mycelium; there are revertant mutations caused by something called Suppressor genes... aseptic technique and properly sterilized media, as well as a little discussed practice of Culture Hygiene are of the most importance for avoiding these.

Quote:
Are not albinos undesirable mutations? Aparantly not when the potency is high. I think they are ugly and I gravitate toward the pigmented. Although I am going to get a couple of TAT genotypes, but I like the pigmented MVP best of the bunch.



The concept of "desirable" is purely subjective. I am not expressly fond of albinos, but I'm fascinated by albinism like any other non wild-type trait.

In genetics and breeding, you'll encounter the term "wild-type" a lot. It's honestly pretty self descriptive. Look at the wild specimens. The traits/genes that are selected for fitness by nature's competitive selective pressures are the "wild-type" trait/gene. These have been deemed "desirable" by the merciless whore that is Mother Nature.

In cultivation, "desirable" is going to be determined entirely by the cultivator. Some people hate spore discharge, so non-ejecting and sterility are desirable traits for them. But a variety like Enigma- which fits these needs perfectly- would consistently be selected against in nature.

Quote:
And the sterility factor! Is the high potency of PE varieties a result of energy not focused on reproduction?



We don't have the full understanding of all the factors that contribute to potency yet, I don't think. We're pretty close- we know the biosynthesis pathway, genes associated, etc... But the best short answer at the moment (to me) is that potency is a function of specific metabolic profile multiplied by time. There is a much stronger correlation between how long a fruit takes to mature and how potent they are reported to be, than if they produce spores or not. Koh Samui squats, for example, drop a mother lovin' truckload of spores, and they'll kick your teeth in, but they are also slow af in fruiting.

Quote:
Yes Enigma, an offshoot of Tidal Wave. Tidal Wave was the first species I decided to order. My understanding is that it (Tidal Wave) is unstable because it was put to market at F2-F3 or something and is prone to blobs and varied pheno characteristics.



Variety, not species. Tidalwave is 100% P. cubensis.

Tidalwave was a cross of B+/PE made by a guy named Doma. He was actually selling the F1 prints (spores from the initial cross), and that's why they were "unstable". That just means that no traits were really set in stone.

Enigma came from an F1 print. I don't want to name drop too much, but there was drama over the who what when where and what's it called? TL;DR: some dude that was still a noob had a dirty print, a member of the community offered to isolate clean growth from his print and send it back, they did that, noob fruited it out and months later, it happened to be what they call Enigma/Brainz. Blah blah blah. I happened to get some of the early culture in spring 2019, and my obsession with the blob phenomenon started.

Quote:
So if I want to stabalize my Tidal Wave and carry it forward for my personal grows, I should grow from the favored spores 3 or 4 more generations, correct? My instincts tell me this should be done from a mix between 2 different caps since spores from a single cap is a form of inbreeding; is this correct?



Cousin fucking or sister fucking... where do you draw the line?

Seriously, though, it will still be inbreeding. Their sexual system is designed to allow for it extensively, though. My concern with inbreeding is for the varieties that have been shared via spores for decades. It's a giant "unknown" how many generations passed, who if anyone was backing up master cultures, etc...

As for Tidalwave, do you know the provenance of your spores? It entered circulation at F1, but can you say for sure what generation your print is from? there are some people out there with TW that I know for fact are selling spores, and all they do is MSS to BRF cakes. That's potentially 8 generations a year.

When you find a desirable trait, from a cross or random mutation from an old line, you should clone it to make sure it's a real, persistent mutation, then try to find it again growing out its spores. It's the same process regardless.


--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27876635 -

As per my reference to cloning associated with inbreeding. That was simply a semantical error. I'm not up on fungi genetic technical jargon. I meant genetic degredation in multi-generational cloning, which to my knowledge, is a thing.

As to my knowledge of the generation of Tidal Wave I ordered, who knows. Big name trusted vendor. I assume if it was latest and greatest gen, it would have been mentioned in the ad copy. I'm sure it will be fun to play with and eat!

Thanks for the reply.

Edited by Fried_Sushi (07/25/22 12:33 PM)

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Muad.Dweeb]
    #27877255 -

Muad.Dweeb said:
I want to talk today about di-mon mating, aka the Buller Phenomenon.

Prerequisites:

You need a monokaryon, derived from any of the usual methods.

You need a clone.

...you know 2/3rds of the genetic material at play, at least casually, from the start. It makes viewing the way traits blend, dominate and obfuscate very dramatic. There are also methods for splitting dikaryons into monokaryons, but this is sort of a short cut around that.




A few Qs about this.

With the process you describe, you end with two dikaryons, yes? Presumably they're "close" to each other, awash in the afterglow. How do you separate them so you know you've isolated them from each other? First guess is take samples from the far side of the growth, but I wonder if there is there a way to be certain.

In the case where you are starting with spores, is it better to just isolate a few monokaryons instead?

On that topic, when isolating monokaryons, how do you *know* that's what you have? How do you know when you have a dikaryon? I ask because I just plated some GT spores, guessed at a few monokaryons I thought I saw, but really not sure without seeing if I can fruit them.

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: lothar48]
    #27877468 -

is it possible to breed two different phenotype using the cloning method? Say you put the bits of stems from two strains next to each other on agar hoping for the primary myceliums to merge?

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Vast218] * 1
    #27877775 -

Some spore porn!

Here is a sample of the gold spore line I'm working right now:


[Calico.F3.CL1 "Gold Member"]


Some PF Redspore:




A print of an F1 cross between gold spore and red spore:




And this old pic I dig out of my original Calico print slide:



--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: lothar48]
    #27877827 -

lothar48 said:
A few Qs about this.

With the process you describe, you end with two dikaryons, yes?



Not counting the original (doner) dikaryon, there is a potential for two new dikaryons, if you repeat the pairing several times. If you only do one pairing, it will only produce one new dikaryon though.

Quote:
Presumably they're "close" to each other, awash in the afterglow. How do you separate them so you know you've isolated them from each other? First guess is take samples from the far side of the growth, but I wonder if there is there a way to be certain.



Well, you don't. In a lot of situations, you'll be able to tell that it's a new dikaryon just from the fruit, but not really which half of the dikaryon was donated. And you can't control it either. Those are disadvantages to this method.

Quote:
In the case where you are starting with spores, is it better to just isolate a few monokaryons instead?



Better is a subjective measurement.

Each method for initiating outbreeding has strengths and weaknesses. The methods you should employ will depend on what level of control you want to exert, and how much work you want to perform. If you want absolute and quantitative certainty that you took A and B and made an AB hybrid, isolating a battery of monokaryons from spore and doing a matrix of crosses with a lot of permutations to organize your data is absolutely the way to go, if you are willing and able to take on the vast burden that entails.

The alternatives sacrifice this degree of clinical control for the benefit of moving through iterations with less work, or they give greater certitude of starting genetics, or some other benefit.

Quote:
On that topic, when isolating monokaryons, how do you *know* that's what you have? How do you know when you have a dikaryon? I ask because I just plated some GT spores, guessed at a few monokaryons I thought I saw, but really not sure without seeing if I can fruit them.



With a microscope: make a slide and look at the mycelium. Find the tip of a hypha @ x400-800 and follow it backwards to a cell wall. A bump/tube that protrudes over the cell wall is a "clamp". Monokaryons do not have clamps. Keep checking over several spots with a mature monokaryon to make sure you don't see any. It's best to check samples taken from isolated monokaryons at least 2-4 days old. If plasmogamy has occurred, it can take several days for nuclear migration to complete, and new growth to start forming clamps.

Without, take your suspected monokaryon and expand it. Make a bunch of plates. You're going have to experiment some, so at least 10 working plates once it's clean.

Good plates, that aren't going to dry out, at least 8mm deep with agar. Some are going to sit. For a long time. You can pretty much expect if it was a dikaryon, or even 3 or 4, it will have knotted or pinned by 3 months, if it hasn't dried out.

While waiting for that, you can pair it with random clones to see if it pins on the mono side. Basically, you can use it as you normally would and disqualify it if a control plate pins.

You can also let a plate colonize almost completely, then add a small amount of spore a few mm ahead of the leading edge. This plate should pin eventually, in contrast to the control plates.

That's not the nice, crunchy certitude that a microscope offers, but it's pretty certain if you don't have one.


--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

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Re: Mushroom Breeder - AMA [Re: Vast218]
    #27877864 -

Vast218 said:
is it possible to breed two different phenotype using the cloning method? Say you put the bits of stems from two strains next to each other on agar hoping for the primary myceliums to merge?



If you are looking for more information on this hotly debated topic, try the key words "foundational mycelium". Primary mycelium is specifically the initial hypha that pops out of the spore shell and grows as a monokaryon.

Some say so. Roger Rabbit certainly thought so, even without fancy stuff like snake venom.

My understanding of di-di mating is that it isn't a thing. What is a thing, from what I have read in my studies, are a set of events that can cause "dedikaryotization," in which a nucleus or both can escape the binucleate arrangement. Sometimes this can happen with strains that have some mutation or deficiency in genes related to nuclear orchestration (keeping the nuclei 2 per cell). You end up with "foundational mycelium" where the tips are mononucleate, sometimes for several elongated cell compartments, before filling in with the other nucleus and developing clamps.
[Another good key term to read more on this is "Spontaneous Dedikaryotization"]

Exposure to certain chemicals that destabilize cell wall formation (chitinases, proteases, cholates) can also make dikaryon cells more permeable, and clones in such environments could easily exchange nuclei.

I have what I think is a better method for this approach. But, I'm still collecting data on it. This sort of claim is going to require substantial supporting data to not get me heckled into oblivion, but it's incredibly simple. The best part, though, is it's so simple, anyone can replicate it without much investment if they doubt it works.


--------------------
A beginning is the time for taking the most delicate care that the balances are correct. This every sister of the Bene Gesserit knows.



How to Breed like the Bene Gesserit
The Weirding Way - Advanced Bene Gesserit Techniques

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