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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: GoOnThen]
    #18882912 -

I have found neem oil mixed to water and dip the pots where lophophoras are to neem oil water 4-5mL/1Liter strong. This is good done at evening and let soil be cool and moist with neem. In long term this will effect the spider mites.

I don' know how grafted plants move systemic pesticides inside them, however, I have seen my self used previous summer neem oil mixed to water with soap to help it mix to water. Then I have dip the pots to water pool and let plants drink the neem oil water.

Some compounds will act as systemic as I have read one post here where said from few compounds in the neem working good as systemic way too.

This is not short term solution, but will effect as long term.

One major thing fighting against spider mites I have used isopropyl alcohol solution. Don't know the strength of it but I have used it directly to skin with wool stick wet with isopropyl alcohol.

That solution is used there to desinfection for humans and it doesn't do harm to skin of lophophora when wiping the skin of lophs with this solution contains only water and isopropyl alcohol. That solution is used to kill fungi and bacteria in medical care before for example injecting anything to that spot on human skin.

With neem I have find out it will make serious damage is used wrong with light and heat present as picture show


I with isopropyl alcohol solution mixed to water I have not found any negative impact to lophophora skin and it should possible kill the mites.. I have to found new plant with mites and wipe the skin of peyote again with this solution. It's not so strong isopropyl alcohol and it evaporates fast away from the skin. Afaik what I have tested this solution for another bugs I have captured and used this solution to them to see effect, it has kill every insect from mosquito to ants by simply smelting them. I don't does anoter countrys sell this product or what is the another brand names for this product but after my investigation by using captured insects and add this solution to them, it has kill all insects I have tested.

This same solution are used with these papers what are used to wipe skin before injecting a medicine to skin. Also I have done this to all my lophophora skin and have not seen any harm. For caution I have done this at night even there is no dark time at summer and I have not seen any damage to loph skin. I suggest to try it.

Also bottom watering with neem water are good in long term, I have get rid of most bugs by that way, also it kills bugs under soil in long term.

After failed to use directly neem to lophs, I have later used solution not so strong with neem to skin and only when it's dark, also amount of water I have not used so much when add directly neem to skin.. It takes season or two to get the neem damage away from loph skin. Ariocarpus cactus has not take any damage from combination of light and neem oil tho.

I suggest to wipe isopropyl alcohol solution to skin all away the lophs to kill living bugs, also do that every second day or so for week or two so it should help. I don't know foreign product brand names for this but I am sure it can be obtained from any pharmacy store around the world.


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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18883048 -

I just wrote a massive reply and then accidently closed the browser.:crazy2:

Short version:

I'll try a mix of water and isopropyl and also neem oil on a few test subjects. If things don't improve I will use commercial systemic miticide on old mature specimens. I can handle a bit of damage but when it hits a certain threshold you need to act to limit losing valuable plants. Even if it means making them unsuitable for consumption by birds.

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: karode13]
    #18883250 -

karode13 said:
I just wrote a massive reply and then accidently closed the browser.:crazy2:

Short version:

I'll try a mix of water and isopropyl and also neem oil on a few test subjects. If things don't improve I will use commercial systemic miticide on old mature specimens. I can handle a bit of damage but when it hits a certain threshold you need to act to limit losing valuable plants. Even if it means making them unsuitable for consumption by birds.



Can you get ready solvent with water and isopropyl alcohol used to desinfection with people?

I have tried it, moisten a tip of wool stick and then wipe the whole skin of lophophora, never seen damage on skin, only scarring from mites has stop spreading.

In my country this product need to buy from pharmacy. Not meant to use for plants but I have seen it doesn't cause damage to skin of cactus and it will skill big insects so possible kill the mites ain't ruled out.


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/24/13 03:13 AM)

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18883815 -

I used 50% diluted hydrogen peroxide to handle my cannabis' mite problems, one good spray and they all disappeared :rockon:


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All posts are entirely, 100%, conclusively false or complete works of fiction... but I can levitate lol

"Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain and most fools do." Benjamin Franklin

if I owe you seeds from a previous trade send me a PM, I will rectify my shortcomings and compensate you for your patience

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: karode13]
    #18886538 -

karode13 said:
Man these red spider mit

es are shitting me and it's time to break open the chemical weapons chest. Last years damage is evident on some, it's only just Spring here and they're already back. Look closely at some of the pictures and you can spot the @%#$s.







Properly harvested button with 2 new heads and a third just breaking through









 












Love thw collection k-man. And I love your use of pedro stock. Its a very underutilized stock


Anyways, try an insecticidal soap.


Here is one that I sprayed with such sai d soap. I use ortho ornamentals insecticidal soap.


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Nature is my church and walking through it is gospel. It tells no lies and reveals all to those who look, and listen, closely.
-Karode

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: ferrel_human]
    #18888549 -

any one have any experience with grafting a loph seedling to a prickly pear?


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:hummer:

:trees::trees:

:aweyeah::trippinbawelz::awecid:
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                                              :redneck::tentjump:                         :hole:

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: the mad machinest]
    #18888577 -

Are you talking about grafting to the prickly pear fruit itself as it is emerging or onto the pad of the opuntia?

I have successfully grafted to the new offshoots that grow off opuntia pads, the grafts seem to grow slower and more  normal looking than a pereskiopsis or even tricho but not much of an increased rate. This is compounded by the fact that new growth is always popping out of the pads so you can either constantly remove  them or graft more stuff which takes growing energy too. I can post a picture later if you'd like.

Never had the opportunity to graft to an emerging fruit before.

Edited by djmattz0r (09/25/13 12:11 PM)

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: djmattz0r]
    #18888584 -

the pad


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:hummer:

:trees::trees:

:aweyeah::trippinbawelz::awecid:
.         



         
             
             
                                              :redneck::tentjump:                         :hole:

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: the mad machinest]
    #18888596 -

The only unsuccessful graft to opuntia was when I tried to cut the pad completely in half and attach multiple scions, ended up just rotting  after a while. Key is to graft to the new growth  offshoots. The vascular rings are pretty easy to line up too because the opuntia have a line for a vascular ring so can technically accommodate multiple scions

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18888890 -

intelligentlife said:
With neem I have find out it will make serious damage is used wrong with light and heat present as picture show



After failed to use directly neem to lophs, 




i blast everything with neem , indoors and out.
never had an issue....works great.


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:aliendance:

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: anne halonium]
    #18889699 -

anne halonium said:
intelligentlife said:
With neem I have find out it will make serious damage is used wrong with light and heat present as picture show



After failed to use directly neem to lophs, 




i blast everything with neem , indoors and out.
never had an issue....works great.





do 5mL/Liter solution, use it for week or two directly on skin and keep loph at full sun or partial sun whole time without washing neem away at any point.. picture is result from it.:lol:


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/25/13 05:00 PM)

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18890052 -

you mean you did it daily for a week or two?


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Don't believe everything you think.  TRADE LIST

‹Sell Your Soul› You know this place is owned and operated by the Illuminati, right?
‹lsdwithme› i possibly just smoked a rat turd :facepalm:

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: POWAtrippin]
    #18890244 -

I'm pretty certain that's what he means, but since english isn't his first language it neglectable


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All posts are entirely, 100%, conclusively false or complete works of fiction... but I can levitate lol

"Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain and most fools do." Benjamin Franklin

if I owe you seeds from a previous trade send me a PM, I will rectify my shortcomings and compensate you for your patience

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: 420milehigh]
    #18891864 -

I meant I sprayed during the night and sometimes at morning 5mL / Liter mixture of neem oil and water and cactus got sun/strong 550W HPS/MH light... Every day or every second day atleast over one one week. These kind of burns to lophophora skin shows day by day and when it's starting and neem oil are sprayed more, this will happens.

In my mind it is better to know what not to do instead of what to do with cacti. Atleast I know trough many mistakes what they can handle and what not, how much different fertilizers can be add and so on..

Learning trough mistakes guarantee you don't do same mistakes again and again. Learning trough success doesn't guarantee you can sometimes fuck the things up. :lol:


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/26/13 01:08 AM)

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18893435 -

I usually apply neem on a weekly basis.  :shrug:


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Don't believe everything you think.  TRADE LIST

‹Sell Your Soul› You know this place is owned and operated by the Illuminati, right?
‹lsdwithme› i possibly just smoked a rat turd :facepalm:

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: POWAtrippin] * 1
    #18893535 -

Surprisingly my sunburned gray williamsi have come back nice and plump and green, they are about 6 months old at what point would it be okay to replant these to individual pots? thankyou for any advice in advance. :cool:


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"Who says upright Ape's should know the secrets of the Universe"--Terrance McKenna

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: fatal222316]
    #18894276 -

I have also plants shown recovery from epidermis damage, but strong light and neem isn't good combination.

I have later actually sprayed some neem water to plants but amount of neem I have reduced and also amount of water how much I spray it is less.. I don't no more spray few times a day strong neem to skin of lophophora when it's very strong light like sun or HPS bulb giving light. It will burn the epidermis from lophophora and also few trichocereus has suffered from neem and light.

Ariocarpus is the plant what doesn't seems to care do I spray neem on top of them when they are at direct sun light but lophophora epidermis is sensitive and lots of using neem will kill epidermis if plant is kept on same spot with out moving it.. After the damage is happened, neem damage seems to go on and appears after two or three weeks after add too much of neem when plant receive light.

I have proof that light and neem can even kill peyote cactus and actually epidermis damage comes slowly, not right after neem is used. It will show after weeks, so aggressively neem spraying to peyote cactus can cause the problem that peyote skin eventually will just die and there is no possible way to prevent it after damage is done but not visible yet.

Peyote on my pic, has seriously got lots of neem sprayed to skin over and over again and same time receiving strong light. In my climate late spring and summer doesn't have dark time period so I don't know does this have something to do with that.

This summer, I have sprayed directly neem to cactus skin but only once per night and not every night, that way peyote skin seems to tolerate the neem oil.. Also it matters alot how much neem there is mixed to water.. I have possible use over 5mL/Liter solution by accident. Also another growers has said neem will damage the skin if not used properly and with caution..

However, epidermis will grow back and neem damage goes away after one or two seasons. I have one small caespitosa what was ugly neem damaged plant at spring, now it has nice epidermis and some damage visible on the side of the plant, buttons are still at good condition..

Now my fears comes back like every winter cause at winter spider mites comes always inside away from frosts and I have to use precautions at the moment to make plants "not good to settle down" for mites and another bugs there are.. Spider mites in my region are common problem with houseplants during winter months lasting 7-8months per year when plants needs to kept indoors. Luckily my greenhouse is crawling the spiders every summer and they will hunt and kill everything they can get. So I need to make sure I don't use or get outdoors plant what has got pesticides cause it kills also good bugs.

This species of spiders are my protection and never seen plants get damage during summer. Luckily there are not even spider species what can even bite humans nor any poisonous spiders, only poisonous snakes but they are small at size of 30-40cm maximum lenght.


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Edited by intelligentlife (09/26/13 04:27 PM)

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18894409 -

What a beautiful spider.  I have a small army of lizards to keep insects at bay around my greenhouse and every so often I see a spider in there so I know they're cleaning up the place well. :thumbup:


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:super:D
Manoa said:
I need to stop spending all my money on plants and take up a cheaper hobby, like heroin. :lol:

Looking for Rauhocereus riosaniensis seeds or live specimen(s), :pm: me if you have any for trade

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: intelligentlife]
    #18894461 -

I completely agree that neem can damage plants if not applied correctly.  For one it can clog stomata, which means your babies can't breath.  Also you are correct about the light issue.  I have experienced both of these things with plants other than cacti.  However i have sprayed my cacti (lophophora) with 5ml/qt + enough dishsoap to get that shit to mix proper and have yet to notice any issue even with mid day spraying (in shaded south facing window).

Using it every day however is simply over the top.  It has three methods of action.

1.  It inhibits the molting of adult insects
2.  It deters the insects from eating
3.  It deters the insects from breeding

The later two being a like neurotransmitter type action making them kind of "forget" about it.  It really doesn't work like a traditional pesticide at all, as it doesn't really have an immediate knock down effect like they do.

With cannabis i tended to spray it as a preventative measure weekly up until the pre-flower stretch due to neem needing to build inertia so to speak in your grow area.  In doing so I even messed some of those plants up while I was learning to effectively use the product.


--------------------
Don't believe everything you think.  TRADE LIST

‹Sell Your Soul› You know this place is owned and operated by the Illuminati, right?
‹lsdwithme› i possibly just smoked a rat turd :facepalm:

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Re: Loph Growers Unite! [Re: POWAtrippin]
    #18894817 -

Neem has worked good also with bottom watering in my small collection.. Very rare to see any bugs.. Sometimes when I have not taken care properly new plants and inspect them, mealy bug can be find alone wondering and "escape" the bottom watered cactus. Usually after neem watering I see mealy bugs goes away from their hide spot and they are easy to kill when see.. But I have actually not seen mealy bugs since spring.

With new mammillaria I buy'd had mealies on it but I used dimethoat to it what actually works quite fast. I have also "smoked" these mammillarias with pyrethrin products what can be lift on fire like candle but it burns like cigarette.. I have put plants in the bag and fill the bag with smoke for several minutes, also spray of neem+dimethoat with water and aerosol spray of pyrethrins should kill them.. Still they seems to take control of my plants over dormant period when not used any watering.

Next winter I will use this smoke tek again for all plants before I put the to place where they rest over winter. Just some plastic bag around the plants, then let smoke full of pyrethrins kill the bugs around there.. It smells bad few days but kill most of bugs I have tested and it's common product there at summer time when stingers and mosquito insects need to keep away and it will kill everything very fast, why not mites and mealies too..

Dammit that dimethoat is today non-effective to mites, probably cause of heavy use of industry, mites has develop a resistance for that systemic pesticide what is otherwise very good.

I need to try make my best to prepare all my plants not good place to habitat for insects over winter, they will stay indoors long time, spiders could be good but they never come at winter out from their hiding nests and worst of all (for bugs) this house is so isolated cause of cold climate that spiders hardly find their way to to the plants, and if I use pesticides to plants, spiders die too.. And they are very effective at summer in my greenhouse, harmless to people bu few people scare to go my greenhouse cause these crawl all around the plants and warm spots taking sun cause of cold nights.

Actually in my greenhouse I can spot in one look two dozen spiders easily and native spiders loves greenhouse climate and starts their life more earlier than world around greenhouse... Even at april greenhouse can get +20C day temps but -20C at night in worst case. Now there is officially winter starting, first snowing has been already, frosts at morning and native plants starts to die. Long time till I see green again and sun I can see trough my window at late february or early march..

Usually at my birthday sun are high enough to shine inside from window to even give heat to plants even a bit.. Only may, june, july and august are good months to grow outdoor crop, cacti growing needs heater at may and august to success so I have very narrow timeline to use to grow cacti outdoors :gangsta:

Still I want to try and do my best.. No wonder I know so much about artificial lighting with cacti growth.. about 1/3rd of the year there is no sun. and same time there is lots of sun without dark.. ofc spring and fall goes very very fast.. 1hour per week longer or shorted day lenght, so I am going fast to long cold darkness at the moment.:rolleyes:


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