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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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lacing coco fiber with nutrient
    #607269 -

I saw this post awhile back and have been meaning to respond but I could not find the post. The trick to using coco fiber is understanding its properties. My recipe goes as follows:
You will need
Shreded hay or straw(1/2in-1in pieces)seeded straw doesnt matter.
Grain personally I use a combo so that way nutrition is varied. I use a combo of wheat(I find soft pastry the best), rye, millet, and a touch of rye grass seed.
Flour nutrient I use DRF but I dont see why BRF wont work but things might get sticky(havent tried BRF)
Block of coco fiber
Crushed oyster shell

Now lets get started first you want to boil some straw the day before so you can have the moisture content perfect. Do not dispose of straw water put in a bucket and drop your coco brick in while water is still hot. Mind you boil the straw in a pillow case so straw doesnt need to be strained. Hang the pillow case out overnight so the straw isnt to moist(sometimes depending on the amount of straw it takes 2 days). So you have preped straw and a bucket of coco fiber saturated in straw water. Generally there is too much water for one block of fiber. So get another bucket and start squeezing all the straw water you can out of the fiber and place squeezed fiber in the empty bucket. Now boil some grain until it is saturated enough with water where its tender outside and chewy in the middle. While grain is boiling start mixing crused oystershell in with saturated& squeezed coco fiber I use about 2 cups per block of fiber. Mix throughly so that oyster shell is distributed evenly. Your coco fiber should be easy to mix if not there is too much moisture still in it. Next we take the DRF and add this I start with about 2 cups of flour and mix into the coco. It should disappear quickly when mixed into the fiber. I generaly add enough to the point where it starts to just seem clumpy or sticky like when you mix DRFor BRF with vermiculite about 4 cups of DRF is used maybe more maybe less depending on texture. Now strain you grain and rinse with cold water. Now this will get rid of the clumpyness of the coco fiber by adding the grain. I use about 2 pint fulls of grain to start with then mix it until it is evenly distributed. Keep adding grain until there is about 30-40% of grain in the mixture. Im not sure but I think I use about 4-5 pints of grain. Now you have a coco fiber mixture thourghly sturated with nutrients that isnt clumpy now kind of crumbly. This mixture might work as is but I feel the texture needs to be fluffened for speedy colonization. This is where the boiled shreaded straw comes in start mixing the straw in until it becomes fluffly, personally I go for the artifical horse shit look. Now just throw this in myco bags and let sit overnight to be pressure cooked. Pcook at 15-20 psi for about 1hr 20min or more if desired. I usually spawn with colonized quarts of wheat, any grain will do however.
I will be coming up with a more accuratly measured reciepe shortly. This substrate colonizes in 8 days flat ( I have seen it colonize in 6 days spawned with millet). I might post some pics if someone wants to post them for me. I only have a web cam right now so pics arent of that great of a quality.

no water spots or contams yet 100% sucess

I have no idea what Im talking about all info is false, wait where am I?

Edited by durban_poison (04/13/02 12:53 PM)

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Re: lacing coco fiber with nutrient [Re: durban_poison]
    #607289 -

I forgot to mention with a few alterations this substrate works with pan.cyan, pan. trop, mexicana, tampensis, and possibly samuiensis. I also think this would be good for liberty caps also but getting them to fruit is another story that I havent read yet.

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Re: lacing coco fiber with nutrient [Re: durban_poison]
    #607352 -

Thank you for this great posting. There seems to ba a lot of interest in coir lately. I like the addition of the hay. It just happens I discovered some wonderful hay last night when I went to Canadian Tire in the pet department. It is a fair sized package called Timothy's Hay and is for rabbits to eat. I think I am going to use your system when I grow the Tapalpas. Right now I'm trying to start up the wood eaters for the garden. I am hoping the wood eaters will be able to eat the coir as it is lignin rich. I just ordered a 2 foot bale of the shredded coconut coir from the orchid supplier. As I discard it from the mushrooms, I can use it in my other gardening. The bales (also available at hydro stores) seem to have longer fibres and a bit more air than the gro-bricks. Just make sure to wash and wash and wash the coir to get rid of the salts that occur in it naturally. With your system I will wash it ahead of time and then spread it out on a tray to dry for a week or so. That way it will absorbe the nutrients when I put it all together.
I wouldn't hesitate to try using a manurer tea for something that is a heavy manurer lover, or mixing manurer with coir. Composted cattle manurer from the garden centers mixed 50/50 with coir woud have a great texture. I also like composted sheep manurer because it has a sand and soil component to it as the sheep pull the grass up by the roots and so injest the soil. I'm also going to experiment with the fossilized bat guano tea that I use for my med-pot.
I read a posting about starting spores on cardboard where they said you could soak the cardboard in stale beer as nutrient. Malt is made from sprouted barley. I don't see, therefore, why you couldn't soak the coir in stale beer as well to add nutrients. What a laugh when you tell your friends you grew your mushrooms on beer. I don't know if this works but it would sure be easy.


--------------------
I've been having psilly dreams lately

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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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