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Registered: 09/14/01
Posts: 123
Last seen: 21 years, 7 months
Making a Print
    #444495 - 11/02/01 07:47 AM (22 years, 1 month ago)

All I do to make a print is I take a cap of a mushroom, place it on the foil which i swabbed with alcohol. Put a cup over the top of the mushroom and let it sit for a day. Does this sound like a good way to do it?

"Dirty Deeds Done Dirt Cheap" AC/DC

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Registered: 07/29/01
Posts: 14
Re: Making a Print [Re: CaseXX]
    #445392 - 11/03/01 02:43 AM (22 years, 1 month ago)

Yep, let it set for a few days (2 or 3).

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Close ToInsanity.
Registered: 09/12/01
Posts: 1,248
Loc: Seattle, WA
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Re: Making a Print [Re: Indokomes]
    #445398 - 11/03/01 03:00 AM (22 years, 1 month ago)

ii learned that you should let the alc evap before placein the cap

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Registered: 10/23/01
Posts: 55
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Re: Making a Print [Re: CaseXX]
    #445530 - 11/03/01 09:26 AM (22 years, 1 month ago)


"Buy the ticket, Take the ride."

-H.S. Thompson

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It's the psychedelic movement!
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Registered: 04/20/01
Posts: 33,996
Loc: High pride!
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Re: Making a Print [Re: CaseXX]
    #445552 - 11/03/01 10:11 AM (22 years, 1 month ago)

Somone gave me a good tek.

Take a small zip lock bag, put the cap in there and let it make a print. It's air tight. All you do is add water, and suck it back up with a syringe when you're ready.

I'm suprised this method isn't more popular.



Mp3 of the month:  The Assortment - Bless Our Hippy Home

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Carpal Tunnel

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Registered: 04/23/00
Posts: 5,015
Re: Making a Print [Re: Learyfan]
    #445555 - 11/03/01 10:17 AM (22 years, 1 month ago)

There are a couple methods I like. The paper bag bethod is restrictive because I have to handle the cap with my hands. I like to stick a toothpick in the cap and use that to transfer. Basically, I'll put some 99% alcohol on a index card, playing card, wax paper or tin foil and let air dry for 20 seconds. I'll put the cap on top of that and place a 1/2ping jar over that. A solid 24hours is all it seems to need for a nice, dark print. For a medium sized cap I find it best to make about 5-7 syringes. That way they are tinged purple and defently have a large number of spore in it. I am going to go looking for some small baggies. I hear you can get them at the dollar store. People suggest storing your prints in them but I might acutally take the prints in them.

"There's only one corner of the universe you can be certain of improving and that's your own self. So you have to begin there, not
outside, not on other people" - Aldous Huxley

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Registered: 08/20/01
Posts: 282
Loc: Where the shrooms are gre...
Last seen: 21 years, 8 months
Re: Making a Print [Re: phrozendata]
    #445578 - 11/03/01 10:41 AM (22 years, 1 month ago)

Everyone has a good tek to follow, so if you want another here it is:
Take a cookie sheet and place a small peice of tin foil on it, just enough to cover the bottom of a glass. Then I take a plain index card and cut a square out of it, the size of the cap beeing used, and place that on the tin foil. Throw the whole thing in the oven at 425F for 2 hours. I hear 15mins. is all you need, but I don't like to take chances :)
Will after everything is cooled down, I throw the cap on the index paper and take a glass and sterilize it with H2O2, and throw that over the cap. Let it sit overnight......and WAH-LAH. A print :)

I am the vine, you are the branches. If a man remains in me, and I in him, he will bare much fruit.
Apart from me you can do nothing. john 15:5

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Registered: 05/20/01
Posts: 376
Loc: Australia
Last seen: 22 years, 1 month
Re: Making a Print [Re: fiddler4u]
    #447089 - 11/04/01 08:27 PM (22 years, 1 month ago)

Multiple Spore Printing Tek - Auto59009 - v1.0


This is an improvised version of a popular spore printing idea that already exists. The concept is to allow a mushroom cap to drop its spores on a sterile medium, producing a viable "spore print". The cap must be covered to protect contamination by airborne mould spores and to keep the humidity high so that the mushroom will drop its spores. There are many sterile mediums available but I would recommend aluminium foil above all of them. Paper does not typically allow spores to adhere properly, making it unsuitable for mailing. Also, it is harder to seal without leaving it prone to contamination. The bonus in using this method is the ability to produce multiple sterile/viable spore prints.


Baking Tray (no/slightly raised edges if possible)
Pyrex Baking Dish (upside down it must fit entirely within the tray)
Hand Towel/Paper Towel
Aluminium Foil
An oven
Duct/Masking Tape
Dust Mask
Latex Gloves
Alcohol Aerosol Spray (glen20 is quite a common brand)
Sharp Blade (cheap retractable pen knives are available at most supermarkets)
Little Baggies


1. The spore printing "setup" needs to be constructed. This is really quite simple. Take the tray, lay down enough towelling to cover the whole tray, turn the pyrex baking dish upside down and place it in the centre. (The towel is important for absorbing excessive moisture in the air, humidity, that would otherwise be unable to escape).

2. Now the actual printing squares have to be cut out. You want each individual square of foil to be slightly wider than the cap you want to print from, and twice as long as it is wide. Cut out as many rectangles as will fit in the setup, or as will be printed. Lift the pyrex baking dish and neatly place the foil squares underneath. (I prefold them in half, then unfold them before I put them down. This will make more sense later on.)

3. Place the entire setup in the oven at 150C for 30-60 minutes. All materials used (with the exception of the towelling) are good conductors of heat so 150C is plenty hot enough to sterilise the setup. 30 minutes is fairly short, yet I have had no problems with contamination using this time period. Be sure not too sterilise with too high a temperature for too long or the towelling may ignite :)

4. Remove the setup from the oven and while (relatively) hot create a "handle" from the tape. I find this necessary because unlike small, single print covers a curved edge pyrex baking dish is quite awkward to lift with minimal contact. Cut a measure of tape, fold it in half, but not completely! Only fold it to about halfway down the length so that you end up with a sort of "T" shaped piece of tape. The top of this "T" should be adhesive whilst the sides are not. Stick one sticky side on the top of the pyrex baking dish, and the other on the side of the pyrex baking dish. If you can not understand this handle concept (I know it is not very clear!) then feel free to improvise your own. The reason this is done while hot is to ensure a more permanent contact between the tape and the dish. If it is done later the tape often becomes unstuck after being sprayed with aerosol alcohol.

5. So now you have a nice sterile setup! Well, except for the tape of course! So leave it somewhere relatively clean to cool. Room temperature is what you are aiming for here. You will find that the pyrex baking dish will take quite a while to emit all heat and return to room temperature (approximately 2 hours).

6. Now take your setup and place it somewhere partially enclosed to minimise chances of contamination by airborne particles. Bring your terrarium closeby if possible, this is where a nice portable terrarium comes in handy. (If one is not available you might consider making a mini-terrarium for transporting casing/cake to allow printing, or alternatively, place your casing/cake in a clean plastic container. Thoroughly spray down the surrounding area with aerosol alcohol. Don your dust mask and gloves. Spray the gloves for extra sterility. Wipe down the sharp blade with an alcohol wipe (make your own by spraying a tissue) and hold it in the enclosed area while the alcohol evaporates. Give the immediate area another liberal spraying (can't hurt to be overcautious :)

7. Now you have a relatively sterile area. Aseptic is quite a difficult goal for the avid home cultivar, so relatively sterile will have to do (in my experience it works fine most of the time anyway). Remove the lid from the terrarium, select the choicest specimens (any that developed larger, faster, or generally more roust than the others are desirable). The veil should have released itself, leaving it drooping around the stem. The cap should be hemispherical, approaching a slight flatness. While this will result in a somewhat smaller print than an upturned cap it means that only the rim of the cap actually touches the printing medium, thereby lowering chances of contamination.

8. Now the cap must be cut from the mushrooms. Using the ethanol sterilised blade make a cut at rought the same stem height as the edge of the cap. It is best to cut as close to the gills as possible, but it is also best not to touch the gills with anything at all if possible. I figure edge of cap height is a good compromise. Some people sterilise the cap by wiping the top down with a hydrogen peroxide soaked cotton wool ball, then the same with ethanol. Some people even *LIGHTLY* wipe the gills. I have never found any of these necessary and I advise that they are not attempted unless contamination has become an issue.

9. Slowly lift the dish using the tape "handle". Slow is the key here because a quick lift will result in a large influx of air, raising chances of contamination. Once lifted to a minimum height (enough to allow a gloved hand to fit in) place the cap in the centre of one side of the foil rectangle. Once the process is completed for all caps the setup must sit for 12-48 hours undisturbed. The longer you leave it the heavier the print. This is, of course, just a rule of thumb and mileage will vary between individuals. Each individual microscopic spore takes between 30-60 seconds to drop, so do the calculations and you can work out the time needed for a nice visibly thick print :)

10. After waiting 12-48 hours, spray down the entire area with aerosol alcohol again, put on the dust mask and gloves, and spray the gloves again. Have your baggies nearby and open the first one. Slowly lift the dish, remove the cap carefully and quickly fold the foil over. Now fold each side over slightly, and finally, fold the end. Place the print in the ziplock baggy and you have just created a spore print. Repeat the process with each cap and you will have a nice batch of prints. Some people suggest removing the caps with a sterilised pin, but again I have never found this necessary. Plus, the outside of the print has to be touched to be folded anyway. By lifting the cap carefully your hands should not come into contact with the printing surface.

11. If you regularly make batches of prints like this for the purpose of distribution (be it sale, trade, competition etc.) a randomly selected print should be made into a syringe as a sort of "quality testing procedure". Label your prints with small adhesive labels that include species, race, printing time, print date, and source. This will be appreciated by all who receive your prints. Good luck and happy printing!

I am a compulsive liar :wink:

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