Auto-SummaryThis post provides a detailed step-by-step guide for creating multiple spore prints using foil as a sterile medium. The process involves preparing a setup with a baking tray, upside-down Pyrex dish, hand towel, aluminum foil, duct tape, a dust mask, latex gloves, alcohol spray, a sharp blade, and ziplock bags. The spore print setup is created by placing foil squares under the Pyrex dish, sterilizing the setup in an oven, and allowing it to cool. The mushroom caps are then carefully removed, cut, and placed on the foil, which is subsequently folded and stored in a ziplock bag for spore collection. The guide emphasizes the importance of minimizing contamination and provides tips for creating high-quality spore prints suitable for distribution.
this is from the archive.. posted last July.. some parts
like the lifting of the pyrex cover.. if it has knob handle..which most do...then you don't need to do the tape thing..as described.. Keep in mind ...this is for Multiple prints.
I found it a good guide when I was first learning.
From:
auto59009
(enthusiast)
07/12/01 10:00 PM
detailed printing tek...
ok i am not trying to claim credit for some amazing new printing tek, i have simply
typed up a method in detail that works well for me and the 2 others i have
consulted in regards to foil printing. a new grower requested a printing tek on this
board a while ago so that is why i typed it. hope it can help out some other
newbies who are wary of the process!
Multiple Spore Printing Tek
Introduction:
This is an improvised version of a popular spore printing idea that already exists.
The concept is to allow a mushroom cap to drop its spores on a sterile medium,
producing a viable "spore print". The cap must be covered to protect
contamination by airborne mould spores and to keep the humidity high so that the
mushroom will drop its spores. There are many sterile mediums available but I
would recommend aluminium foil above all of them. Paper does not typically allow
spores to adhere properly, making it unsuitable for mailing. Also, it is harder to
seal without leaving it prone to contamination. The bonus in using this method is
the ability to produce multiple sterile/viable spore prints.
Equipment:
Baking Tray (no/slightly raised edges if possible)
Pyrex Baking Dish (upside down it must fit entirely within the tray)
Hand Towel/Paper Towel
Aluminium Foil
An oven
Duct/Masking Tape
Dust Mask
Latex Gloves
Alcohol Aerosol Spray (glen20 is quite a common brand)
Sharp Blade (cheap retractable pen knives are available at most supermarkets)
Little Baggies
Method:
1. The spore printing "setup" needs to be constructed. This is really quite simple.
Take the tray, lay down enough towelling to cover the whole tray, turn the pyrex
baking dish upside down and place it in the centre.
2. Now the actual printing squares have to be cut out. You want each individual
square of foil to be slightly wider than the cap you want to print from, and twice
as long as it is wide. Cut out as many rectangles as will fit in the setup, or as will
be printed. Lift the pyrex baking dish and neatly place the foil squares
underneath. (I prefold them in half, then unfold them before I put them down.
This will make more sense later on.)
3. Place the entire setup in the oven at 150C for 30-60 minutes. All materials
used (with the exception of the towelling) are good conductors of heat so 150C is
plenty hot enough to sterilise the setup. 30 minutes is fairly short, yet I have had
no problems with contamination using this time period. Be sure not too sterilise
with too high a temperature for too long or the towelling may ignite 
4. Remove the setup from the oven and while (relatively) hot create a "handle"
from the tape. I find this necessary because unlike small, single print covers a
curved edge pyrex baking dish is quite awkward to lift with minimal contact. Cut a
measure of tape, fold it in half, but not completely! Only fold it to about halfway
down the length so that you end up with a sort of "T" shaped piece of tape. The
top of this "T" should be adhesive whilst the sides are not. Stick one sticky side
on the top of the pyrex baking dish, and the other on the side of the pyrex baking
dish. If you can not understand this handle concept (I know it is not very clear!)
then feel free to improvise your own. The reason this is done while hot is to
ensure a more permanent contact between the tape and the dish. If it is done
later the tape often becomes unstuck after being sprayed with aerosol alcohol.
5. So now you have a nice sterile setup! Well, except for the tape of course! So
leave it somewhere relatively clean to cool. Room temperature is what you are
aiming for here. You will find that the pyrex baking dish will take quite a while to
emit all heat and return to room temperature (approximately 2 hours).
6. Now take your setup and place it somewhere partially enclosed to minimise
chances of contamination by airborne particles. Bring your terrarium closeby if
possible, this is where a nice portable terrarium comes in handy. (If one is not
available you might consider making a mini-terrarium for transporting casing/cake
to allow printing, or alternatively, place your casing/cake in a clean plastic
container. Thoroughly spray down the surrounding area with aerosol alcohol. Don
your dust mask and gloves. Spray the gloves for extra sterility. Wipe down the
sharp blade with an alcohol wipe (make your own by spraying a tissue) and hold it
in the enclosed area while the alcohol evaporates. Give the immediate area
another liberal spraying (can't hurt to be overcautious
7. Now you have a relatively sterile area. Aseptic is quite a difficult goal for the
avid home cultivar, so relatively sterile will have to do (in my experience it works
fine most of the time anyway). Remove the lid from the terrarium, select the
choicest specimens (any that developed larger, faster, or generally more roust
than the others are desirable). The veil should have released itself, leaving it
drooping around the stem. The cap should be hemispherical, approaching a slight
flatness. While this will result in a somewhat smaller print than an upturned cap it
means that only the rim of the cap actually touches the printing medium, thereby
lowering chances of contamination.
8. Now the cap must be cut from the mushrooms. Using the ethanol sterilised
blade make a cut at rought the same stem height as the edge of the cap. It is
best to cut as close to the gills as possible, but it is also best not to touch the
gills with anything at all if possible. I figure edge of cap height is a good
compromise. Some people sterilise the cap by wiping the top down with a
hydrogen peroxide soaked cotton wool ball, then the same with ethanol. Some
people even *LIGHTLY* wipe the gills. I have never found any of these necessary
and I advise that they are not attempted unless contamination has become an
issue.
9. Slowly lift the dish using the tape "handle". Slow is the key here because a
quick lift will result in a large influx of air, raising chances of contamination. Once
lifted to a minimum height (enough to allow a gloved hand to fit in) place the cap
in the centre of one side of the foil rectangle. Once the process is completed for
all caps the setup must sit for 12-48 hours undisturbed. The longer you leave it
the heavier the print. This is, of course, just a rule of thumb and mileage will vary
between individuals. Each individual microscopic spore takes between 30-60
seconds to drop, so do the calculations and you can work out the time needed for
a nice visibly thick print
10. After waiting 12-48 hours, spray down the entire area with aerosol alcohol
again, put on the dust mask and gloves, and spray the gloves again. Have your
baggies nearby and open the first one. Slowly lift the dish, remove the cap
carefully and quickly fold the foil over. Now fold each side over slightly, and
finally, fold the end. Place the print in the ziplock baggy and you have just
created a spore print. Repeat the process with each cap and you will have a nice
batch of prints. Some people suggest removing the caps with a sterilised pin, but
again I have never found this necessary. Plus, the outside of the print has to be
touched to be folded anyway. By lifting the cap carefully your hands should not
come into contact with the printing surface.
11. If you regularly make batches of prints like this for the purpose of distribution
(be it sale, trade, competition etc.) a randomly selected print should be made into
a syringe as a sort of "quality testing procedure". Label your prints with small
adhesive labels that include species, race, printing time, print date, and source.
This will be appreciated by all who receive your prints. Good luck and happy
printing!
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