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The official PF TEK cultivation thread * 13
    #29462596 -

It's been a long time coming.

Here we go. we finally have an official PF Tek thread. You're One Stop Shop for everything PF. Including EF(EXOTIC PF)

Come here and  ask questions/answer questions and share pictures/grow logs and all general experience/expertise pertaining to the PF Tek.... please feel free to share links to your favorite PF Tek and I will link them here in the op.

Anything related to and on the lines of PF is welcome. including ideas for new recipes. As well as exotic cakes (EF-TEK)

The PF Tek is fundamental. It is a perfect starting point for every noob cultivator.



Me and countless others stand behind the tek.  Lots of us think it deserves its own thread.

So here we are.


If you're a noob and this is your first time reading this post there are links to the PF Tek below.




Updated PF Tek Guide (with Pictures)

EF-tek (Exotics Fanaticus cakes)

MacMerdin's Simple Pan-Cakes

Pristine BRF Puck tek


I'll start it off with some pics and

Heres a tip

use coir instead  verm for the roll. 

I definitely have much easier time getting coir stick. no problem at all. And also does a better job at keeping the cake hydrated.

I also like to put like a mound of coir or verm on top and on bottom for them to sit on. (Faht uses an inner reservoir for optimal results)

It's really good for a bottom watering and keeping them hydrated. You can see the  in the pictures below.

Of course I got this idea from fahtster






Edited by callmehippie (02/13/26 09:56 AM)

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: callmehippie] * 3
    #29462601 -

No this one is


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I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 6
    #29462609 -

reserved - flapping_bird's PF Tek picture gallery (future)

       
 
(Left to right: Thai Pink Buffalo, Fiji, Fiji, Ecuador, Ecuador)


--------------------
Peace to you, friend!
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Edited by flapping_bird (01/23/26 03:46 PM)

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: flapping_bird] * 6
    #29462637 -

Great idea for a thread!













Edit: realized that second photo isn't pf Tek. Sorry!

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 7
    #29462638 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
No this one is



I can see why




--------------------
MUSHROOMS RULE

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: Dala] * 2
    #29462669 -

Nice chubbys dala. 
:whatshesaid:


Pretty sure my wife fell in love with me for the same reasons.:lol:


--------------------
:hippie::mushroom2:Take it easy. if it's easy. take it twice:mushroom2::mushroom2:
:sporedrop:The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery:sporedrop:

**A LINK TO EVERTHING**


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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon] * 1
    #29462681 -

PuffM4gicDr4gon said:
No this one is




Lol. I just realized what this meant.

Yeah I don't know why the thread got posted twice that was weird.

This is the official one though. The other one should be deleted now.


--------------------
:hippie::mushroom2:Take it easy. if it's easy. take it twice:mushroom2::mushroom2:
:sporedrop:The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery:sporedrop:

**A LINK TO EVERTHING**


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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: callmehippie] * 6
    #29462804 -

For those that enjoy trading and giving away spores:

This is a friendly little plug for using PF cakes as spore-print MACHINES - holy schneike! From the first 6 cakes that I ran for the 2025 Cake Wars challenge, I’ve made way more than 200 spore prints of three different varieties for spore trading! That’s astonishingly easy and valuable, considering some vendors sell prints for $30 each. I personally enjoy giving them away and trading them.

Imagine what it would do for Shroomery’s Marketplace if several people were to use PF tek to easily grow a enough fruits for a sample trip and to make a bunch of spore prints to trade? 

One can pretty easily amass a ***huge*** inventory of varieties *very* quickly that way, all for the cost of envelopes and postage. 

Not sayin it’s for everyone, but it IS another way to squeeze a lot of additional personal enjoyment out of this wonderful hobby of ours!

Maybe something to think about! Peace to all!


--------------------
Peace to you, friend!
The HHG is a guide to getting started.
New User Welcome Wagon
GROWER’S BEST photo contest: join the fun!
CAKE WARS III - Starts SEPT 1, 2026

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: flapping_bird] * 3
    #29462815 -

Speaking of:
Cake War's 2025

:goodnews::themoreyouknow:


--------------------
:hippie::mushroom2:Take it easy. if it's easy. take it twice:mushroom2::mushroom2:
:sporedrop:The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery:sporedrop:

**A LINK TO EVERTHING**


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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: callmehippie] * 7
    #29463032 -



I posted this in the big cult thread but I wanted to post it again.

The myc in this jar looks like a mushroom, I think it looks so cool!:amanita2:

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: callmehippie] * 1
    #29463040 -

Really happy to see the interest in cakes making a come back!  I still use em after all this time, definitely a handy tool to have.
I started with the online original PDF version of this:
Old Ass Thread
Definitely looking forward to see how this thread plays out, and I'm almost in a position to join in!


-Kingboomer


--------------------


I'm just a clown dancing to the sins of mankind.

-Captain Spaulding

Back in business
Cake wars III

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: kingboomer] * 1
    #29463648 -

Brought over from qq/qa

callmehippie said:
catgirl117 said:
Word, thank you for the encouragement! If I could ask one more question about the PF Tek. I read that, when I add water to the verm at the beginning, I should squeeze some in my fist and, if more than a few drops come out, I've added too much water. Should I be squeezing lightly or should I be squeezing hard? I can imagine that, with a given amount of moisture in the verm, a light squeeze would result in a few drops while a hard squeeze might result in a lot of water coming out.




Honestly that part of the tek is really confusing. You should just ignore it. Stick to the recipe as long as you you do that you'll be good.

(I wish they would just take that part out of the tek. It's an issue that comes up and is covered frequently with noobs)

Put the verm in the bowl add the water mix it up it should feel damp.

Tilt your bowl up like you're going to pour the mixture out and scoop all the verm up to the top of the bowl if you get any water dripping out to the bottom of the bowl then that's too much. You don't want to see any water on the bottom of the bowl collecting.

Then start adding your brown rice flour a little bit at a time and mix it all together. When that is done put some of it in your hand and squeeze it. When you open your hand you should be left with what looks like a little compact nugget of barley damp sand.

Before you squeeze it though. It will  almost likely appear to be too dry and fluffy.. that's okay. Thats perfect.  As long as when you give it that squeeze you see that it's now can pack together you'll see that the moisture content is there. 

Typically if you go for what Field capacity is supposed to be. in that mixture. it's going to come out too wet and every time you PC or steam them you're going to have moisture issues.

So yeah just follow the recipe to a T. Your end result should be light and fluffy sand. That  packs together like a little egg in the palm of your hand.



Ps. For all other applications like preparing bulk substrate then you're going to want to be giving the Field capacity squeeze test and that means grabbing a handful and giving it a real hard squeeze. And you would only want a few drops to come out.




--------------------
:hippie::mushroom2:Take it easy. if it's easy. take it twice:mushroom2::mushroom2:
:sporedrop:The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery:sporedrop:

**A LINK TO EVERTHING**


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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: callmehippie]
    #29463670 -

Good tips about the mound of verm or coir for the cakes to sit on. I kind of did this with one of my failed cakes from a failed water tub, gave up on this cake completely so we'll see how it turns out.

Right now I am just fruiting from jars because the species I have seems to have a mind of its own, but I may try this technique properly in the future.

Do you find that you get less top fruits when you put the mound on top of the cake? In some of the pictures I can see there wasn't shrooms there, but in the other pictures it's hard to tell if you put a mound on top or not.

Also, if you did put a mound on top just for the purposes of extra hydration, what is the benefit of that versus just spraying the top of the cake? Maybe some grow, maybe you get some aborts? But couldn't you possibly get more fruits if some survived the watering? (versus none growing in some of those top coir mound photos?). Or do the shrooms eventually make it through that top mound?

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 1
    #29464427 -

tultedspoon said:
Good tips about the mound of verm or coir for the cakes to sit on. I kind of did this with one of my failed cakes from a failed water tub, gave up on this cake completely so we'll see how it turns out.

Right now I am just fruiting from jars because the species I have seems to have a mind of its own, but I may try this technique properly in the future.

Do you find that you get less top fruits when you put the mound on top of the cake? In some of the pictures I can see there wasn't shrooms there, but in the other pictures it's hard to tell if you put a mound on top or not.

Also, if you did put a mound on top just for the purposes of extra hydration, what is the benefit of that versus just spraying the top of the cake? Maybe some grow, maybe you get some aborts? But couldn't you possibly get more fruits if some survived the watering? (versus none growing in some of those top coir mound photos?). Or do the shrooms eventually make it through that top mound?




Heres where I got the info from.  Its a fahtster write up.  :hatsoff:

fahtster said:
I got the idea from PF himself off his old site.  He was the first vendor I ordered from.  It's the inner rez tek... I used it because I didn't dunk prior to first flush, I watered slowly over the course of few days... Actually, here is an explanation of what I did with the cakes... It's in my tek index over at 'topia but I should have it here also.

I wrote it a long time ago and I don't have time to reread it, so I'm just going to quote the entire thing so some of it may be a little outdated or some of you may not agree with it, but it worked for me...

Quote:
CAKE WATERING TIPS

The idea is a simple one... if you want more mushrooms, you need more water... if you add more water, you need more FAE . There is a certain point of water retention in a cake that is most beneficial to the cakes production of pins and the maturation of those pins into full fruit-bodies. I call it the "Arc of Excellence", others call it the "Point of Diminishing Returns".

Picture an Arc and at the pinnacle of this arc is a point... this point is where the retention of water is at it's most beneficial to pin formation/development and then the maturation of those pins, hopefully 100% of the pins formed or at least most of them while safely resisting contams or drying out. To the left of that point is less water and to the right is too much water. Going too much to the right can result in contamination due to the water content being too high and the cake cannot cycle all the water has available to it. This over-saturation can also lead to poor pin formation and/or pin abortion. Not enough water can also cause poor pin formation/maturation. adjustments on either side of the point are easy to make... simply add more water if the cake is too dry or allow the cake to dry out a bit if it's too wet.

The inner reservoir  is a great way to increase water distribution evenly throughout your cakes. even tho it's a small column (about the diameter of a nickel), it has no nutes and therefore is not completely colonized; only partially which keeps the reservoir intact and allows for absorption all along its length. This also acts as an extension of your top and bottom casing  layers providing water to all parts of the fruiting  surface. it's true that cakes have more surface area, but without proper water hydration, that extra area is unused. I highly recommend the inner reservoir  and that it's made when the cakes are made... this allows the cake to slightly colonize it which, again, keeps it intact and stops water from just draining out the other end and also allows the cake to absorb water from it thru the myc that thinly colonizes it.

It's quite easy to know when to add water to the cake if we follow the processes and environment that the cake is subject to. Adding water to the cake right after birth is the best way to achieve that "point". This is because the cake is sterile right after birth, which helps with the contamination risk. The cake also doesn't have to struggle and reserve water; resulting is a healthy, unstressed cake right from the get-go. This is why dunked cakes or cakes that water has been fractionally added typically do better than undunked cakes on their first flush.

If you Dunk  your cakes after birth, I would Dunk the cakes up 24 hours; do it in a fridge if possible... if doing it in the fridge isn’t possible, I’d change the water every 4-6 hours, especially if you’re dunking in a hot environment. Then apply a moist to wet casing  layer and leave be unwatered until about mid pinning.. of course doing your FAE's at least twice a day. I've done both, but lately I've chosen fractionally adding water after Birthing  over dunking . This is how I do that:

You can (highly recommended, def. during the summer months) pasteurize  your casing  material before application and boil the water you plan on using for the soaking of the casing  via bottle sprayer

1. I put down a piece of tin foil on the Perlite  and put a small pile of verm  on the foil and soak with water.

2. open the jars and poor off any uncolonized verm  air barrier... I don't scrape off the verm  that is attached to the cake... why? this is sterilized casing  material.. no reason to remove it if you're just going to put verm  on there anyhow (unless of course you are using a verm/coir  mixture or something similar). But regular verm  by itself works great.

3. then I birth the cake and hold it under water for about a minute with verm  barrier and all... this hydrates that verm  in the inner reservoir  and the air barrier.

4. I then apply a thick casing  layer, about that size is good (1.5 inches), to the top of the cake and soak it with water... to the point that there is water draining off the cake when it's tilted a little bit and place it on top of the pile of wet verm  on the foil. the cake will suck up this water in the next couple days... basically, this is a slow Dunk  but with lots of air available during the absorption.

5. Now you can do what I like to do and stack another cake on top of that one... this is a great space saver and utilizes the space you are already using. To stack the cakes, you need to put another piece of foil between them or water will get pulled down from the top cake via gravity; this will water log the bottom cake and dry out the top cake. You'll probably get a nice flush  from the bottom one but that cake will probably contam the next time around due to being water logged... putting a piece of foil between them stops this action of forcing the water down or at least slows it considerably. Now just repeat the steps for the top cake and put a small pile of soaked verm  on the foil and so on.

6. Now once you have your single verm  soaked cake, you give it a couple days to absorb that soaking... I come back on the third day of birth and soak the top casing  layer again to the point of pooling... This gets the cake about to the that "point" on the arc...

**note** -if you are doing the two cake "towers" only soak the top cakes top verm  casing  layer... the bottom cake just doesn't need a second soaking... it doesn't lose much water due to it being in close proximity of the Perlite  and being "capped" off by the top cake which allows for less evaporation. some of the water from the top cakes does find it's way to the bottom cake too, so that second soaking will most likely water log the cake.

7. Now I let the cakes go without another watering until mid fruiting  where the cakes need lots of water to extend their fruits. Watering here can replace the need for a Dunk  between flushes one and two.

There are is a large amount of factors that also play a role in when you should add water to the cake (which I do so by watering the center of the top casing  layer directly over where the inner reservoir  is located). The stages in which the growth of the myc. is in is a big one.. which is also entwined with when you birthed the cakes. If you birth the cake before Pinning  starts invitro , longer periods of evaporation need to be taken into consideration before the cake starts Pinning , which can be upwards of a week or more. But then entwined with that is the RH  of the air that you are exchanging when doing your FAE's. So lets say you are in a climate where in the winter the RH  is very low and the air is dry... when you do your FAE's in that climate, more evaporation is going to take place from your cakes and Perlite ; whereas, if you are doing your FAE's in a climate where the RH  is high (the summer months anywhere), then less evaporation after exchanging your new air is going to occur and that balance on that "point" will remain steady with little fluctuation so less water will need to be replaced. Even if you are in a low RH  environment, a small amount of water will need to be replaced as there is little growth in the way of pins which results in little need for the cake to tap into it's reserve within it's structure. Even during the Pinning  stage, small amounts of water are used in pin formation (more than before pin formation but not much). This can be seen in how dense the pins are.

Myc. is going to produce its pins at a point on the cake where four factors come together in the best ratio for optimal fruit development through spore dispersal: nutrients, air, water, and structure. This is why Pinning  on the edges are a preferred place for myc. in a overlayed casing  or normal casing  or on a cake, where the DEC  and myc. meet. (thanks Golly ). This is why you want to keep your DEC  nice and moist during the pinnig stage... this signals the cake that this is a good spot to grow a whole shit load of mushies.. and if the cake is nice and healthy and not struggling in any way, it'll put out a nice pinset and see all, if not most of those pins to maturation. But in order to see all those pins mature, another step should be taken.

This is where larger amounts of water can be added safely to the cakes' casing.. Right after pin maturity (right before the caps starts breaking away from the stem), the cake is getting ready to use A LOT of it's water reserve. This is because it is using this water to inflate and elongate the cells in it's fruitbodies... not to say that tissue gain in the fruits is completely stopped but certainly slowed as water inflates the mushrooms. This is (ime) why the growth of mushrooms happens so rapidly after pin maturation. So it's during mid fruiting  that water should or can be added to the casing  layer so that the cake can easily use this new water through absorption by gravity and inner reservoir . This will permit more of those mature pins to go on to mature sporulating fruit-bodies. This watering can also keep the water retained in the cake high in volume if it's replaced as the cake used it during pin maturation. once the cake is fully mature.. the cake will still be heavy and therefore all that is needed is a bleach  dip  and a new pasteurized casing  layer to be added and once again soaked (minus the third day of flush  soak, it's unneeded and possibly harmful to your cakes--- but should be taken into consideration by how hydrated your cakes are if it should be done or not) to bring the cake back to that "point". But a Dunk  is never a bad idea... just other ways to go at it. And some strains prefer dryer conditions than others so you really should play around with it... find your own way of doing things.. keep track of what you do and your results... And if you do decide to experiment, don't put all your eggs in one basket, so to speak.



Examples from fahts gallery.







Head over to his gallery for many more.

.........................................

*As far as will the mushrooms ever make it through the mound on top. It just depends on if they feel like it or not. they definitely can.

*It's just the same as a top layer on a bulk substrate In a tub.



*There are mounds on all of those cakes you see in my pictures.

*However it is pretty common for PF cakes to grow out the sides just as much as the top.. it depends on the micro environment and where the mushrooms are best suited to grow.. faht goes over this in the write up above.

*The main difference between just misting your cakes on top and having the mound is the mound acts as a reservoir. Same as a bulk substrate.

*You'll mist  less because it holds the water and the cake draws from it from both ends as needed until there's none left.

Edited by callmehippie (01/25/26 10:25 PM)

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: callmehippie] * 2
    #29464490 -

That is solid gold!


--------------------
Peace to you, friend!
The HHG is a guide to getting started.
New User Welcome Wagon
GROWER’S BEST photo contest: join the fun!
CAKE WARS III - Starts SEPT 1, 2026

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: flapping_bird]
    #29464577 -

Appreciate the quotes. I'm still trying to figure out that fine line between the perfect mycelium that looks like a cloud, and if 1 light mist is good or not. Sometimes I see very fine droplets on the sides of my gallon ziplocs that are folded over, but not so much water droplets on the mycelium clouds that are very clean, not too thick, and fresh. Still trying to figure out if 1 slight mist from high above is towards the right direction or if that 1 mist (very very fine) could be preventing some pins from forming, or if maybe 1 fine mist is always beneficial if it's been a good bit just in case.

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 1
    #29464705 -

It's a great method. I've been growing mushrooms for 19 years now, and my first crop was on PF Tek, which I still use today among other methods.

Over the years, I have noticed that this method is very forgiving. You don't have to worry too much about all the details. For several years, I soaked the cookies for 12-24 hours at room temperature and never had a problem with contamination (in relation to the above recommendation to change the water every few hours). In my experience, FAE twice a day is also quite sufficient. I often do it only once a day, and when I go away for the weekend, I don't do it for 3 days and the result is the same. Don't get me wrong, of course you need to know the recipe and listen to good tips from others. But just doo it and have fun, don't tense your buttocks too much :wink:

I believe that mushroom cultivation is not only a precise laboratory technique, but there are also more wu wey methods - during cultivation, you can also be in a relationship with the mushrooms, not their manager. Like a gardener with plants in a Japanese garden.


--------------------
.
"If a person has arrived, at whatever age, at views and beliefs that later make him unhappy, then he can also, through effort of mind and sharpness of reasoning, learn to free himself from these ideas and replace them with ones that correspond more closely to reality."
-Lucien Augen

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: Blizzloo]
    #29464713 -

I agree. 

I've never had any issues with just a typical 24 hour initial dunk after birth.

Faht is def a mad scientist and mushroom whisperer.

If you were to fall down his Rabbit Hole you should definitely be prepared for a lot of unorthodox, out of the box "extra"

Things that produce amazing results for him but definitely aren't necessary to do especially if you're not into complicating things. 

This is why I enjoy to take some of what he's doing an apply it when I see it fit and beneficial.

I kind of see his write up there as something for the very experienced PF  grower who wants to try to optimize their results as much as possible with it.




I typically birth my cakes, dunk them for 24 hours and they go directly into a water tub on top of a little mound of coir.  And pack a small mound on top the cake.  FAE is given 24/7 via small gaps from the cracked lid. ( I live in a very humid and hot environment)

then I mist as needed. and harvest mushrooms LOL easy as "cake"


--------------------
:hippie::mushroom2:Take it easy. if it's easy. take it twice:mushroom2::mushroom2:
:sporedrop:The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery:sporedrop:

**A LINK TO EVERTHING**


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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: callmehippie] * 4
    #29465024 -

This has been a very helpful read through. I'm on my first grow ever and just put my first 5 bluey Vuitton cakes into the water tub yesterday after a 24 hour dunk. I let them consolidate for 8 days after the half pint jars were fully colonized

The cakes were rolled in dry verm (not coir) before being put into the water tub. I am leaving the tub lid just lightly cracked for FAE although I know there are many conflicting opinions on FAE.


I have a 12/12 light cycle going and gave the cakes a light mist from above the open tub around the 12 and 24 hour mark (not sure if this was overkill so early on). It is winter and dry so I was a little concerned about the cakes drying out but am also cognizant that maybe I should just leave it the fuck alone for a bit here now.

Slightly blurry pic of of the cakes from above the water tub:



Obviously there is no one size fits all but anything in particular you all think I should keep in mind over this next day or 2?

I have 7 GT cakes that will be ready to birth later this week so I'm trying to learn as much as I can from any mistakes I make this first go around.


--------------------
I want to stand as close to the edge as I can without going over. Out on the edge you see all the kinds of things you can't see from the center.          -Kurt Vonnegut

The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.  -Hunter S. Thompson

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Re: The official PF TEK cultivation thread [Re: neuroshaman] * 3
    #29465026 -




Seems like there is an issue with the picture I uploaded...let me try again since I can't seem to get it added to my original comment


--------------------
I want to stand as close to the edge as I can without going over. Out on the edge you see all the kinds of things you can't see from the center.          -Kurt Vonnegut

The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.  -Hunter S. Thompson

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